Domaine du Pégaü Red Rhone Blend Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 2005

A candidate for "wine of the vintage" is the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Reservée. Pegau did not produce a Cuvée da Capo in 2004, and the Cuvée Reservée has undoubtedly benefited from the inclusion of that stunning lot of wine. A late harvest lasted through the first week of October. Yields were 32 hectoliters per hectare, resulting in an opaque purple-colored effort revealing classic Provencal characteristics of melted licorice, roasted herbes de Provence, sweet blackberry and cherry fruit, and hints of gamy/animal notes and smoke. Meaty, full-bodied, stunningly concentrated and pure, and in need of 4-5 years of cellaring, it promises to be one of the longest-lived wines of the vintage, lasting for a minimum of two decades.

A real powerhouse, with muscular layers of fig and black currant compote, backed by braised beef, chestnut, tobacco and tar flavors. The long, mesquite-filled finish lets additional bittersweet cocoa and dark fruit notes linger, with lots of garrigue. Best from 2008 through 2025.

The 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee is a prodigious effort. The dark plum/ruby/garnet color is followed by a spectacular smorgasbord of aromas, including roasted meats, lavender, ground pepper, and thick, sweet blackberry and brandy-macerated cherries. Full-bodied, dense, and chewy, it has high levels of tannin, a huge finish, and a monster upside. Although less voluptuous than the 2000, the 2001 looks to be potentially the longest-lived and finest Cuvee Reservee since the wonderful duo of 1989 and 1990, both of which are aging splendidly. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020.

Wonderfully fragrant and impressively ripe. What Châteauneuf is all about - plenty of wet earth, mineral, plum, sweet tannins and sweet fruit. A cascade of pleasure, full-bodied and long on the sparkling finish. Drink now through 2015.

One of the finest efforts of the vintage is the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Reservée. There is no Cuvee da Capo in 2004, and as my commentary will make clear, they decided not to produce one in 2005. The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Reservée has a dark plum/garnet/purple color and a big, sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, lavender, roasted herbs, and beef juices intermixed with some licorice and spice. It is full-bodied, rich, deep, spicy, and dense with some tannins in the finish. The wine is not as accessible as many 2004s, and I would opt for cellaring it for 3-4 years and drinking it over the following 15-20. It's a gorgeous effort for the vintage.

Super, with ripe plum and blackberry fruit supported by notes of briar, brick dust, tar and bacony smoke. Rich yet racy, with a powerful yet perfumy fruit- and dried herb-driven finish. Shows a lot now, but built for the long haul. Drink now through 2016.

Ruby-red color. Ripe, pungent aromas of smoky red berries and plum tinged with rose, lavender and black olive. Sweet and fat in the mouth, with creamy red berry flavors and a strong note of plum liqueur. Finishes very sweet and long, with supple tannins and a lingering impression of dried flowers.