between rows where we leaf thinned and the control rows where we did not thin. July was very ugly and August was worse as there was lots of rain and had it not been for a great September, 2004 and would likely have been an eminently forgettable vintage. We began picking on September 28th and continued until October 6th and the second most important aspect of the vintage to encouraging solid phenolic maturity was a thorough triage. Luckily we escaped hail in Nuits but there was damage in Vosne so we devoted almost as many people to sorting as we did to picking to eliminate all substandard berries. Sugars though were surprisingly good given the limited heat and came in between 13 and 13.8%, which is more than respectable. Even with all this we felt it was important to not push the extraction as the skins were thin and maturities weren't high. We also destemmed more than usual at around 60%. Overall, the vintage strikes us as having the maturity of 2000 with the class of 1998 but with less austerity. (Château and Estate Wine Company for most states; Chambers and Chambers, CA; Burgundy Wine Company, NY; Jeroboam Imports, NY and Le Serbet/Becky Wasserman Selection, MA; Berry Bros and Rudd, Goedhuis & Co, Ian Howe, Oddbins and La Réserve, all for the UK). Note: from vines of 15 to 50 years of age A completely different nose with spicy, elegant and expressive red and black sexy fruit aromas and supple, sweet, seductive, forward and powerful flavors that are deceptively accessible as the finish is long and muscular. This is one of those burgundies that you could drink in its youth or hold for a few years but either way, it will be enjoyable early, particularly for its energy and punch.
(hide)
