Descendientes de Jose Palacios Petalos del Bierzo 2009

The entry-level wine (what an entry!) is the 2007 Petalos del Bierzo, 100% Mancia from vineyards ranging in age from 40 to 90 years. It spends its first few weeks in new French barriques before transfer to seasoned oak for 6 to 10 months. Saturated purple in color, it offers up a super-fragrant bouquet of smoke, violets, mineral, wild blueberry, and black raspberry. Fruity yet complex on the palate, it has superb depth,grip, and balance. This sexy effort can be enjoyed over the next six years but only hedonists need apply. Descendientes de Jose Palaciosrsquo; first vintage was 1999. The men in charge are Richardo Perez and legendary vigneron Alvaro Palacios.

This sinuous red delivers both intensity and elegance, with smoky oak notes floating around boysenberry, mineral and licorice flavors. The tannins are well-integrated and give way to a perfumed finish. Drink now through 2015.

The 2006 Petalos del Bierzo is purple-colored with a fragrant nose of violets, lavender, mulberry, and blueberry. Ripe, supple, and sweetly fruited, it will evolve for 2ndash;3 years and drink well through 2015.

Ruby-red. Vibrant red berry and cherry aromas are underscored by pungent minerality and rose; this smells like a great Chambolle-Musigny. Sweet raspberry and floral pastille flavors are enlivened by brisk acidity and gain sweetness with air. Very suave, focused and strikingly pure wine with superb complexity and poise.

This balanced red offers bright cherry and cranberry fruit, with licorice and mineral accents. Not a big wine, but nervy and intense. Drink now through 2010.

This is Descendientesrsquo; so-called starter Bierzo, but it rises above the tried and true value zone to exhibit mineral, crushed violet petals, graham cracker and pure dark-fruit aromas. The palate is smooth and plush, with lush black-fruit flavors, easygoing tannins and some creamy length. Itrsquo;s not as vivid as the 2005, but itrsquo;s still mighty impressive.

This is the basic mencandiacute;a from J. Palacios, a fruity and refreshing red with spicy notes that give it an exotic touch. Itandrsquo;s ready to drink now with roast pork.