Daniel Rion Fils & Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux-Monts(2000)

Rion who points out that the '00s had lots of juice and not much dry extract to balance it off; however, he says that it was not necessary to correct the acidity as most wines were correct. Rion went on to say that it was a difficult growing season that saw a huge green harvest with a considerable amount of crop dropped and a severe triage during the harvest. Overall, these 99s are quite good, if somewhat variable, and certainly consistent with the elegant, pure, fruit-forward, slightly commercial Rion style. Many domaines are experimenting with a technique known as chauffage à la fin de fermentation or alternatively as chauffage post fermentaire (see Domaine Taupenot-Merme for more details). This is a heating of the must to 40 degrees Centigrade in a closed tank for 24 hours and is in theory designed to fix the noble tannins. Christophe Rion did not volunteer this information but as soon as I saw the Nuits Lavières with its dramatically deep color, something the Rion wines have rarely exhibited in the past, I inquired about it. Rion conceded that it was an experiment and that none of the other wines had been treated this way. Often one of the best wines in the Rion line up and the '00 Beaux Monts does not disappoint. Sexy black fruit brimming with Vosne spice and notable complexity followed by medium weight, very pure flavors supported by good sap and length. A nicely concentrated effort in a very forward style.    (hide)

Rion who points out that the '00s had lots of juice and not much dry extract to balance it off; however, he says that it was not necessary to correct the acidity as most wines were correct. Rion went on to say that it was a difficult growing season that saw a huge green harvest with a considerable amount of crop dropped and a severe triage during the harvest. Overall, these 99s are quite good, if somewhat variable, and certainly consistent with the elegant, pure, fruit-forward, slightly commercial Rion style. Many domaines are experimenting with a technique known as chauffage à la fin de fermentation or alternatively as chauffage post fermentaire (see Domaine Taupenot-Merme for more details). This is a heating of the must to 40 degrees Centigrade in a closed tank for 24 hours and is in theory designed to fix the noble tannins. Christophe Rion did not volunteer this information but as soon as I saw the Nuits Lavières with its dramatically deep color, something the Rion wines have rarely exhibited in the past, I inquired about it. Rion conceded that it was an experiment and that none of the other wines had been treated this way. Often one of the best wines in the Rion line up and the '00 Beaux Monts does not disappoint. Sexy black fruit brimming with Vosne spice and notable complexity followed by medium weight, very pure flavors supported by good sap and length. A first rate effort that offers a bit more concentration than most of this group.    (hide)