Conterno Fantino Nebbiolo Langhe DOC 2004

Fabulous aromas of blackberry, licorice and plum. Full-bodied with chewy tannins and lots of fruit. A big, juicy wine, with plenty of muscle. A new Barolo from this producer. Best after 2012.

The 2004 Barolo Mosconi is the first release from this south-facing vineyard in Monforte, which the estate controls through a long-term lease. It is an impressively endowed, full-bodied Barolo with a multitude of tar, smoke, mocha, vanilla, mint and sweet dark fruit flavors that coat the palate with superb depth and persistence. As is usually the case with Barolos from this site, the wine is made in a distinctly powerful style that emphasizes fruit at the slight expense of aromatic complexity. That notwithstanding, it is a compelling Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2012andndash;2022. I have long enjoyed the Conterno-Fantino Barolo but in recent years Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino have taken their wines to an entirely new level. These Balolos can often be massively structured and difficult to evaluate at an early stage yet the 2004s have incredibly sweet, ripe tannins that makes them a pure joy to taste. Simply put, this is a superb collection of 2004 Barolos.

Good deep red. Musky strawberry, blackberry, violet and sexy oak on the nose. Superripe and deep but youthfully backward, showing more cedar and tobacco and less flowers than the Ginestra. A big, rich, chewy wine thatandrsquo;s currently showing more oakiness in the middle palate and wood tannins on the finish than the Ginestra. Seems almost old-fashioned in the context of this producerandrsquo;s wines. Incidentally, although Conterno replanted half of the vineyard in 1998, this 2004 was made from only the old vines. The Ginestra may well be tastable early for its sheer sex appeal but this bottle will require aging.