uncoolness may have more to do with the general trend away from sub-$20 French wines in general, as well as the misleading sound of its name. Muscadet has nothing to do with the musty muscat grape. Nor is it to be confused with muscatel, the muscat-based dessert wine once associated with hobos. Muscadet is in fact made from the melon de bourgogne grape in northwest France, where the Loire River empties into the cool Atlantic. It's the epitome of clean and refreshing, often recommended for shellfish, especially raw oysters. But it's very suitable as an any-occasion white and, in my book, makes an excellent apéritif. Typically best when young, some muscadets can age beautifully for five to 10 years. And there may be another reason for muscadet's low profile: the generally unremarkable quality of a few mass-produced brands that tend to dominate North American shelves. One wine that certainly doesn't fall into that bland category is the excellent, if ostentatiously named, Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Comte de Saint-Hubert 1999 ($15.95, product No. 799924). It was released last week through Ontario Vintages stores (there was no Vintages column last week because of an unfortunate combination of illness and holidays). This wine is a little more expensive and much more serious than most muscadets, hailing from old vines and kept on its lees, or fermentation sediment, for an extended period. The nose is lean and classic, with hints of minerals, citrus and salty ocean spray (the real thing, not the cranberry drink). On the palate, it's relatively round and full, with notes of passion fruit, pineapple, pear and mineral and almost spritzy acid. An excellent match for seafood or soft goat cheese, and a fine candidate for cellaring. (Source: Beppi Crosariol, Globe and Mail, April 12 2003)
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