Columbia Crest Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley 2009

Lightly sweet, with medium-weight flavors of lychee and rose petal, hinting at white grapefruit as the finish persists. Drink now through 2010.

Quite a perfect match for the 2003, this delightful wine remains bracingly fresh and crisp despite its 3.1% residual sugar. Rich and intense, it shows lovely flavors of pink grapefruit, melon and citrus rind. Some stony crispness underlies the fruit, which captures its sweetness without losing its edge. One of the best Gewurzes in the state, if not the country.

Straightforward aromas and flavors of dried and ripe apple and cinnamon; lingering, fruity, off-dry finish. Pork roast.

Another spectacular effort, though theyrsquo;ve bumped up the price significantly. This is beautifully varietal, mixing floral, bath powder, apple and grapefruit components in both the nose and the mouth. There is an elegant intensity that powers the wine through an exceptionally long, brilliant finish; the residual sweetness keeps the alcohol down to 11.5% without making the wine either soft or sugary.

Some diesel and cracker on the nose, along with the usual Gewuuml;rztraminer mix of citrus and soap. The fruit is substantial and fills out the midpalate, offering peaches, apricots, suggestions of papaya and some crisp, apple acids. In keeping with past vintages, this new release is finished at just under 3% residual sugar. It should stand up nicely to spicy noodle dishes.

Bright, zippy and off-dry, with tangy grapefruit, nectarine and pineapple flavors that show restraint even as they linger on the expressive finish. Drink now.

This is one of Columbiarsquo;s strengths, turning out perfectly crafted white wines at budget prices. The Gewurz is off-dry, rich and roundly fruity, loaded with mouthfilling, lipsmacking flavors. Chill it to cut the sweetness and you have the perfect wine for spicy noodle dishes.