Columbia Crest Chardonnay Columbia Valley Grand Estates 2008

Smooth and polished, with creamy oak character thatrsquo;s as prominent as the pear, tangerine and peach fruit, lingering gently on the finish. Drink now.

Though the Wine Advocate has been bellowing it for years, it is worth repeating: Columbia Crest is the source of some of the finest values in the world. I am awestruck that winemaker Ray Einberger and his team can produce such quality in industrial-size quantities. For example, the 2003 Chardonnay Grand Estates (225,000 cases!) reveals delightful aromatics of vanilla bean and ripe pear. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine is broad, spicy, and silky-textured. Its vanilla, spice, and white fruit flavors linger in its appealingly supple and pure finish. Drink this awesome value over the next 1ndash;2 years.

Chardonnay is the sweet spot in the white wine lineup (along with Riesling, of course). Big, bright and buttery, with plenty of legit oak highlights mdash; none of this fake vanilla or microwave popcorn excess. Bacon fat, smoke and toast match the big, round, rich fruit.

This is a blocky, chiseled, mainstream style, with big, chunky fruit and well-defined, toasty oak. Still rough around the edges, it has more weight and concentration than the less expensive but oh-so-buttery ldquo;Two Vinesrdquo; bottling.

Bigger with more obvious oak than the CC ldquo;regular,rdquo; this gets special treatment (hand-stirred for nine months once a week) and 25% new oak. Itrsquo;s nicely integrated, big and buttery, with pleasing layers of carmelized sugar and baked apple. A home run.

The 2008 Chardonnay Grand Estates was barrel-fermented in a combination of new and seasoned French and American where it went through malolactic and was aged sur lie with weekly batonnage for 9 months. Consider the labor and expense of doing this for 8000 barrels (200,000 cases) of a wine that sells for only $11 a bottle. It is medium straw-colored with a nose of pear and apple. On the palate it has a solid core of fruit, integrated oak, a smooth texture, and spicy flavors. Drink this excellent value over the next 1ndash;2 years.

The 2009 Chardonnay Grand Estates was 100% barrel-fermented, went through full malolactic fermentation and was aged sur lie with weekly batonnage, a huge investment in labor for 250,000 cases of wine selling for $12. The nose offers up hints of oak, pear, apple and tropical fruit aromas. Smooth-textured, spicy, and well-balanced, this lengthy effort over-delivers in a big way.