Col Solare Red Bordeaux Blend Columbia Valley 2004

Col Solare, the collaboration between Ste. Michelle and Antinori, brought in the first estate grapes this year, but it will be awhile before it becomes an estate wine. The current vintage uses five varieties from a half dozen vineyards scattered across four different AVAs. Itrsquo;s soft, fruity and open, with a firm core of black fruits wrapped into lightly smoky, polished tannins.

Col Solare, the joint venture between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Antinori, completed its new Red Mountain facility in time to produce this 2006. Composed largely of cabernet and merlot, the wine buzzes with lithe energy when first poured but shows little else. A day of air brings it into focus with scents of tobacco leaf, cedar and black cherry, the flavors bearing out all those aromatic elements. But itrsquo;s the winersquo;s texture mdash; wiry, energetic and completely poised mdash; that may have you returning over and over to the glass. This is seriously elegant, and still very young. Cellar it, then serve with herb-crusted lamb chops.

A polished red, delivering a lively mouthful of blueberry and currant fruit shaded with nice hints of cream and white pepper. The finish lingers seductively. This is distinctive mdash; and much smoother in texture than previous vintages. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and others. Drink now through 2014.

The 2006 Col Solare is a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Syrah. The wine was aged in 75% French and 25% American oak, 100% new. Deep crimson-colored, it displays a captivating perfume of sandalwood, lavender, incense, spice box, black cherry, black currant, and a hint of chocolate. Medium-bodied, elegant, and already complex, it has layers of succulent fruit, impeccable balance, and a lengthy, pure finish. It will continue to evolve for another 4ndash;6 years and offer a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2026.

This red blend from Washington displays remarkable density of flavor on a sleek frame. A smooth and generous wine, its black raspberry, cherry, currant and coffee flavors wrap themselves seductively in a blanket of fine-grained tannins. Lasts and lasts on the finish. Best after 2001. From the partnership between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Italyrsquo;s Marchesi Antinori. Contains 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot.

Europeans often work toward restraint in their New World ventures, and what they get early on is austerity. This latest release from a partnership between Piero Antinori and the winemaking team at Chateau Ste. Michelle is also a bit austere, though it manages to feel baronial mdash; Old World and aristocratic in style. Itrsquo;s blended from Cabernet Sauvignon (67%), Merlot (29%) and Syrah (4%) drawn from Ste. Michellersquo;s Columbia Valley vineyards. Oak tones dominate the aromas here for the moment, with scents of cedar and orange pekoe tea. The the fruit is extremely dry, with a cranberry and boysenberry flavor against the coal black tannins. This needs time to absorb some of those tannins.

The outstanding 1999 Col Solare is medium to dark ruby-colored and reveals spicy blackberry aromas. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and the remaining 10% divided between Syrah and Malbec, it exhibits gorgeous breadth to its medium-bodied, concentrated personality. This well-extracted wine has outstanding depth of fruit. Intense, juicy, and powerful, it coats the tasterrsquo;s palate with blackberries, cassis, and spices. Anticipated maturity: 2004ndash;2014.