Cogno Barbera d'Alba Bricco Dei Merli 2005

The 2004 Barbera drsquo;Alba Bricco dei Merli is just lovely. It is an elegant, finessed wine that beautifully expresses the Cogno philosophy, showing plenty of black cherry, licorice and toasted oak nuances with notable length, fine tannins and superb overall balance. Made in a style that bridges modern and traditional styles, it is sure to find many admirers. Anticipated maturity: 2007ndash;2014. Perhaps because they initially come across as being somewhat reticent, Cognorsquo;s wines donrsquo;t attract the following they should, but those who take a closer look will discover a producer making wines of the highest level.

The 2005 Barbera drsquo;Alba Bricco dei Merli is a deeply-colored, jam packed wine with an attractive plumminess to the fruit and a long, fresh finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007ndash;2010. Cogno is another one of those properties that always seems to fly below most peoplersquo;s radar screens, which is unfortunate because the wines are consistently excellent.

This is a clean Barbera, but one with individual personality. The palate is tight and tart, with cherry and cranberry. The finish is mellow and cooling, with notes of cola, root beer and bark. The structure is tight as a drum. This is a fine wine to accompany Italian dishes.

The dark ruby/purple-colored 1998 Barbera drsquo;Alba Bricco dei Merli is made in a sexy, opulent, forward style, with sweet, jammy strawberry and blackberry flavors, good underlying acidity, fat, and density, and a chunky, spicy finish. It should drink well for 5ndash;8 years.

Wine Tasting NotesThe wine has a deep, ruby red color, with a distinct purple hue. Its harmonious, lasting nose offers a deep, elegantly generous bouquet with roses, scents of undergrowth and oriental spices. This wine has a remarkably strong palate, although softened by ample roundness. Flavor of maraschino cherries and plum preserve. Serve it with richly flavored dishes, such as cream soups and red meats, or soft, fatty mature cheese.

A rich wine on the nose, with plum skin, smoke and strong tea. Full-bodied, with loads of flavor and a long, opulent finish. Drink now through 2004.