Clos du Bois Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast 2004

Clos du Bois is my safety man, for the occasions where I rush to the local grocer's (any grocer) and have a whole 10 seconds to grab a bottle for a small casual dinner I found myself hosting...that began 20 minutes ago...and I need a white. Yes, Clos du Bois is usually my fall-back safeway/7-11/local petrol station chardonnay provider. Mostly I've found that they'll carry that clos du bois chardonnay just about everywhere. I must have tasted it on some occasion but what can I say, it remains unmemorable. Which brings me to my point, after all of the previous unsightly comments, I do read more...not think horribly of clos du bois. Thus, when I found a bottle of its '04 cab in the pantry (quite mysterious that was) I had to give it a try.
Surprising, it is not terrible. Californian Cabs have never been an area I'm very comfortable with, mostly because there is far far too much of a range within it. Thus, I lean heavily toward my usual Pinots and Syrah. With that said, this particular one, especially given its price category happens to hold its own surprisingly well.
Firstly, it has a very decent, deep red hue and a hint of texture on appearance alone that sets you up for the expectation that this will not be yet another one of the far-too-en"light"ened cabernets that have come out California. On taste it relies significantly more on spices and tannins than the rich, luxurious fruitiness I tend to prefer...again, this is all as is characteristic of Californian cab. However, (this being surprising from a source like Clos du Bois and within this price range of course) it is surprisingly "decently" balanced. By this I mean firstly that there was not an offensive overemphasis on the oakiness, and most importantly very well rounded on incorporating the tannins. I would not go so far as to put it off as a harmonious creation but it is surprising to have a cabernet in such a category come off as quite unobjectionable while simultaneously not without depth.
With that said, it is not at all pleasant enough to attempt a memorable aftertaste, and yet, ah it is there. The lingering taste itself is not so pleasant as the depth given by the already somewhat overshadowed fruit gives way to just the spicy...ripeness sensation.
Perhaps I went into this expecting the caliber of a Clos du Bois to be somewhat similar to that of the Gallo brothers. (Low-balling to an extreme here I understand quite well.) Thus, I was reasonably surprised by the inoffensiveness of it all. With that said, this doesn't make it past the "do I want a second glass" test.
Though this would be a safe choice for that last minute addition to an afternoon grill session, there are a number of superior Californian cabs around this price range I assure you. Opt for an '06 Marquis Phillips...oh wait, that's not Californian. What do you know, my biases hold as always.    (hide)

January 2008

Brimming with lush velvety blackberry and vanilla flavors, this wine exhibits rich aromas of black cherry and currants. The wine is 100% barrel fermented in 60-gallon French oak barrels, then aged an additional 15 months in French oak. Rich and chewy, it is plush and smooth on the palate with perfectly integrated oak. This rich, flavorful Cabernet longs to be paired with roasted or grilled beef.

Very bland, not distinctive or engaging.

March 2008

No written review

October 2007