Ciacci Brunello Pianrosso 2004

The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino exhibits a soft, supple, elegant, sweet nose of underbrush, licorice, jammy currants and cherries, spice box, and tobacco. Medium-bodied and luscious, this sexy, kinky Brunello will drink well for 5ndash;10 years.

This beautiful wine from the southeastern hills of Castelnuovo dellrsquo;Abate takes the rsquo;99 vintage in a lighter direction than most of its siblings, building spice out of its tannin and pungent red fruit. The flavors are classical, with a red raspberry rasp and an earthen grip that spreads the tannic spice through a long finish. The lightness makes it accessible now, while the dynamic red fruit and rose scents argue for drinking it ten years from the vintage.

The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso, one of the best to date, announces its importance with warm and potent aromas of plums and red currants, chocolate and tar. The rich and concentrated flavors, deep, supple, and very long, have the dimension, class, and definition that put the Sangiovese of Montalcino in a category of its own. Drink: 2005ndash;2020.

Pretty raspberry and cream aromas convey richness, and it is indeed an easy drinker with warmth and body to it. Core flavors of strawberry, cherry cough drop, and brown sugar are sweet and likable, but ultimately the wine doesnrsquo;t have that last kick to push it to another level.

Silky and elegant, offering cherry, raspberry, currant and violet aromas and flavors. Detailed and firmly structured, with refined tannins and a lingering aftertaste of red fruits. A Brunello of finesse and harmony. Best from 2012 through 2028.

Wow. Very, very rich, with blackberry, grilled meat and fresh porcini character. Full-bodied, with thick yet refined and silky tannins and a long, long finish. A real beauty. Wonderful. Best after 2005.

The estateandrsquo;s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso possesses striking depth as endless layers of sweet, perfumed fruit emerge with tons of grace. This, too, is an intense, full-bodied wine. The balance here is utterly exceptional, and the wineandrsquo;s sheer plumpness makes for a highly rewarding glass of Brunello. Succulent dark cherries, spices, underbrush, minerals and new leather come to life as the wine sits in the glass, yet this remains a backward, structured Brunello in need of serious bottle age. The Pianrosso is a terrific effort from proprietor Paolo Bianchini. Ciacciandrsquo;s Pianrosso is an old-vines selection that spent 36 months in Slavonian oak. Anticipated maturity: 2014andndash;2024.