Castello di Monsanto Sangiovese Blend Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio 2006

Dark ruby-red; the dark tones of virtually all the wines from the Il Poggio vineyard are perhaps due not just to the terroir but also to the presence of some colorino, a teinturier variety. Aromas of violet and licorice and a whiff of excess alcohol complicate dark cherry and underbrush on the nose. Then much more marked by red fruit flavors (redcurrant, sour red cherry) on the palate, with a saline element contributing complexity. Finishes long and smooth, with a bright floral overlay and a lingering note of vanillin oak. This was the first Il Poggio aged in 500-liter tonneaux instead of smaller barriques. A classic, complex, graceful wine that is clearly the product of a long, slow growing season. I find that it only began opening up in 2012, a sure-fire sign of a great Il Poggio, which is characteristically shut down and tight in its first few years of life. The canaiolo nero/colorino component is almost always a blend of 7% canaiolo nero and 3% colorino.

The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio is a powerhouse. Firm sturdy tannins enshroud a core of fruit that struggles to emerge in the glass. Behind the wine’s imposing structure lie hints of red cherries, menthol, licorice and leather. Today the 2006 Il Poggio comes across as painfully young, but the balance, length and impeccable finish suggest all that is required is patience. Over the years and decades Il Poggio has built a stellar track record of excellence. Il Poggio is 90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo and 3% Colorino. Anticipated maturity: 2016–2036.