Castello di Monsanto Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana IGT Nemo 2003

Currant, toasty oak and meat follow through to a medium body, with chewy tannins and a medium finish. Cabernet Sauvignon. Available in June 2007. Best after 2007.

Monsanto has produced this single-vineyard cabernet sauvignon since 1982, and you can sense that history in the wine's restrained, confident structure. This opts for earthy nuance over sweet ripeness, melding flavors of black olive, tobacco and cherry with smoky, firm tannins. Its energy is enhanced with air, the vibrant acidity carrying the flavors through the finish. It’s drinking well now, a warm, sophisticated red to pour with prime rib.

The 2003 Nemo (Cabernet Sauvignon) is a plump, engaging wine loaded with ripe dark fruit. It shows awesome richness and an elegant, refined personality, even if what comes through is more vineyard character than varietal expression. With air and food this wine could be enjoyed today, although it is best left alone in the cellar for at least a few years. The use of oak is much more harmonious than Il Poggio in this vintage. This is a stunning wine, not to mention one of the top wines from Tuscany in 2003. If it sounds like I was blown away by this wine, I was. Though not inexpensive in absolute terms I would be hard pressed to name another Tuscan wine that delivers this level of quality and pure drinking pleasure for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2010–2028.

A big, bold Cabernet executed in a modern, New World style, this wine layers on generous amounts of cherry fruit, toasted wood, vanilla and black berry. The oak element is anything but understated, yet it does not distract from the fruit. Let it rest two or three years in your cellar.