Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio All'Oro Riserva 1995

Banfi, truly one of the leaders of the region, takes its usually fine brunello to another level with this huge single vineyard wine, its fully ripe tannins wrapping themselves around the masses of fruit flavors.

Banfi's Riserva is so round and smooth, it's almost impossible to miss the power of the wine, but it's there, completely withheld. And the black fruit is there as well, tight and unyielding, would up in a ball. Sweet tastes of the fruit slip past, hints of what will develop as the structure relents. It's a modern approach to sangiovese grosso, drinkable now as a sleek, textural pleasure, with its flavor in reserve for those willing to wait.

A Sangiovese Grosso wine from Tuscany in Italy. 1995 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio All'Oro Riserva 750ml

Blackberry and blueberry aromas are focused and ultraclean. Full-bodied, with a deep core of pretty fruit and polished tannins that go on and on. Closed and tight right now, but will open into something very special indeed. Best after 2011.

Blockbuster. Incredibly intense black cherry aromas, with hints of mint and licorice. It soon turns to flowers. Full-bodied, and full-throttled, with masses of tannins and concentrated fruit. Very extracted. Still needs time. Best after 2006.

Wonderful aromas of blackberries, raspberries and flowers. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. A very fine wine. Always a winner. Drink now through 2008.

Dark ruby red. Aromas of blackberry, dried flowers and cherry. Very intense and concentrated nose. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long flavorful finish. Lots of light vanilla and crushed dark fruits on the finish. Solid now, but better with age. Best after 2010.