Casanova Brunello White Label 2005

Saturated ruby-red. Low-toned aromas of roasted black fruits, licorice pastille and chocolate verge on port-like. Silky on entry, then fat and thick in the middle, with a pruney quality to the highly concentrated flavors of dark raspberry, dried currant and nutty oak. Finishes with notes of raisins and walnuts, a bit in the style of dry port. Undeniably mouth coating wine but I find it lacking in energy - and I would never have identified it as sangiovese.

This vineyard-designate expression from Giacomo Neri shows gorgeous depth and intensity. Aromas here include red berries, currants, anise seed, new leather, pipe tobacco and Spanish cedar. Its texture is rich, firm and ripe with berry nuances. Drink after 2017.

Offers crushed berries, with flowers and sandalwood. The nose is reserved, but interesting. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. Very tight and stylish. Racy and powerful. Needs time. Best after 2011.

Casanova di Neri's 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova caresses the palate with plenty of silky-textured dark red cherries, plums, smoke, earthiness and sweet toasted oak. This polished modern-styled wine offers superb balance in a rich, weighty style that will find many admirers. The tannins are remarkably well-integrated, which is quite a feat in this vintage. To be sure, there isn't much of what could be called varietal character here but by any definition this is a beautiful wine on an absolute level. The Tenuta Nuova spent 30 months in 600-liter barrels, of which 35% were new. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.

Intense aromas of plums, grapes and flowers. Full-bodied, with big, juicy tannins and a long berry, licorice finish. Very ripe style. Best after 2004.

The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is a better balanced, softer, sweeter wine than its 1997 counterpart. Nevertheless, it needs to be drunk over the next 5-6 years as it does not have the necessary depth to age longer. An attractive, evolved perfume of smoke, ashtray, cedar, tobacco, and red currants is followed by a medium-bodied Brunello with no hard edges (unlike its 1997 sibling).

The 2004 Brunello di Montacino Tenuta Nuova reveals layers of dark perfumed fruit intermingled with French oak, spices, minerals, violets and licorice. The Tenuta Nuova is impressive mostly for its textural richness and sheer depth, both qualities it has in spades. The finish is long, sweet and pure. Here, too, the wine will need at least a few years in bottle before its full range of aromas and flavors emerges. Neri gave the Tenuta Nuova 30 months in medium-sized French oak tonneaux. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024.