Bouard-Bonnefoy Chassagne-Montrachet Blanchot Dessus Premier Cru 2006

Bright, sparkly pale straw-gold. Cool, reticent lanolin-laced nose of lemon ice, green Bosc pear and quince butter. Clean, brisk edge of green mango, bergamot and ginger blossom lends a lovely set of layering. A subtle, yet distinct, creeping palate of lemon curd, spun burnt sugar and traces of quartz minerality. Its delicate, but very supportive acidity is the catalyst for this wine's ever-broadening power and palate. Very intriguing, very finessed and grows in aromas and palate strength as time goes by.

Sweet mineral freshness greets you on the nose, joined by lovely streams of lemon confit, dried pineapple and lemon/vanilla powdered sugar soufflé. The palate begins as a simple lattice-work of ladyfinger biscuit, lemon oil and apricot/peach coulis. This entry is lifted and broadened by elements of poached pear, apple and custard flavors. Its appealing finish is a seductive with mineral-dusted notes of lemony pineapple and just the barest trace of toasted coconut. All this is neatly defined by a taut acidity.

Very restrained nose hints at candied green apple, juicy white stone fruits and lemon sorbetto. Nothing obvious - everything sneaks up on you - with a palate of golden pear and apple, quince paste and honeysuckle flower honey. The stone mineral and vibrant acidity lend the wine its clean and fresh persistence, and it has an intriguing seam of very subtly buttered brioche toast. A study in delicacy and elegance, but with substantial presence.