Bodegas Muga Tempranillo Blend Rioja Gran Reserva 2008

The unfiltered, dark ruby/garnet-colored 1995 Reserva exhibits an attractive, smoky, dried herb, lead pencil, Graves-like bouquet with hints of sweet red currant fruit. The wine is flavorful and medium-bodied, with no hard edges. Toasty new oak makes an appearance along with cherry and currant flavors in the silky-smooth finish. Drink it over the next 2ndash;4 years, although I suspect it will last longer.

This spicy red has a food-friendly structure, firm but balanced. Subdued cherry flavors are less prominent than cola, cedar and herb notes, which will appeal to fans of the more traditional style. Drink now through 2002.

The 2004 Muga Reserva is dark ruby-colored with an enticing nose of pain grille, pencil lead, crushed stone, and blackberry. This leads to an elegant wine with layers of flavor, several years of aging potential, and a lengthy finish.

The 1998 Reserva Rioja (70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and the rest Mazuelo and Graciano) was aged two years in French and American oak prior to being bottled without fiitration. Four thousand cases were exported to America. A sweet perfume of leather, cherries, forest floor, and spice box aromas is followed by a medium-bodied, supple, fresh Rioja meant to be consumed over the next 4ndash;5 years.

A classic dusty, red fruit nose and a ripe red fruit flavor. Plum and tobacco are complemented by spicy oak notes. This rustic style is earthy and medium bodied with an extended full finish. Enjoy with an aged Black Angus burger, with everything on it.

Medium red. Gamey red berry aromas complicated by tobacco, leather and mineral qualities; a gentle vanilla quality contributes to the old school impression. Pliant red fruit flavors take on a firm edge with air, as well as a riper bitter cherry character. Finishes with solid tannic grip; this is pretty interesting already but should loosen up in a couple of years.

Deep and earthy, and packing more than a punch. This is big-time modern Rioja in brash form. The nose is gorgeous, dealing milk chocolate and fresh soil. The palate is a tight blend of tannins, acids and zesty flavors. Big and hedonistic for sure, but yoursquo;ll love the plum, pepper and espresso flavors. Still feverishly tannic; hold at least until 2005.