Billecart-Salmon Clos St Hilaire 1996
"Billecart-Salmon’s 1996 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire has lost some of its youthful exuberance and the fruit now is a touch softer than it was a few years ago. The aromatics and overall balance remain seductive and utterly compelling. To gain perspective, I tasted this next to Bollinger’s Vielles Vignes Francaises and Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay. The Clos Saint-Hilaire is the most delicate, ethereal of the three, while the VVF is the darkest and most brooding, purely vinous of the wines. The Clos d’Ambonnay stands out for its laser-like minerality and intensity. It is likely to be the longest-lived of these three Blanc de Noirs....96" WA 11/10
The Billecart-Salmon House is the embodiment of these rare family businesses who have constantly strived to build the legend of Champagne. The family's independence has helped them to maintain a sense of continuity in the concoction of their champagnes with as their watchwords: finesse, balance and elegance. Each generation has endeavoured to propel the art of wine-growing into modern world, while remaining firmly rooted in almost two centuries experience.