Bernardus Winery Sauvignon Blanc Monterey 2006

Although Bernardus Winery is in Carmel Valley, winemaker Dean DeKorth sources a lot of fruit from cooler appellations to the east, including Arroyo Seco and the Santa Lucia Highlands. The Griva Vineyard in Arroyo Seco is a site with sandy, rocky soils, and it’s planted with the aromatic Musqué selection. In 2006, the weather on the Central Coast was generally cool, so conditions were right for a crisp Sauvignon Blanc. Still, the grapes were picked in six separate passes so DeKorth could work with grapes of varying ripeness for his final blend. The wine is 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc, and it’s fermented in stainless steel to retain its bright aromas and flavors. The regular Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc is a reliable wine, but this one is even more dramatic, with zippy flavors of grapefruit, lemon and gooseberry, just a touch of grassiness, good length and persistent acidity. It cries out for some briny oysters on the half shell, chilled shrimp or tangy goat cheese.

Bernardus winemaker Dean DeKorth strives to make Sauvignon Blanc that’s bright and a little grassy, with strong varietal character, so he sources his fruit from two vineyards in the relatively cool Arroyo Seco AVA. In addition, 2006 was a cooler-than-normal vintage in Monterey, which further enhanced the characteristics DeKorth is looking for. Eighty percent of the wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and grassiness, while 20 percent was aged in older French oak barrels to enhance the texture of the wine. A small amount of Semillon was also added for a little more richness. DeKorth has accomplished what he set out to do: This is a Sauvignon Blanc with zippy citrus, passion fruit and gooseberry flavors, accented by an attractive hint of grassiness. The wine has a nice richness, but that doesn’t obscure the varietal character. Very reasonably priced at $15, this Sauvignon Blanc would pair nicely with seafood – think oysters on the half shell, grilled snapper or chilled shrimp salad – or some tangy goat cheese. Well chilled, it would also be a good summer aperitif.