Barossa Valley Estate Sparkling Shiraz 'E&e Black Pepper' 2002

A cooperative founded in 1985 by local growers, Barossa Valley Estate excels with Shiraz. E&E Black Pepper is the flagship wine, made only from vines 60 or more years of age. Cool weather in 2002 left some Barossa reds excessively crisp, but BVE made a classic, achieving its highest score ever; it's a profound wine with muscular tannins and intense fruit.

Dark, juicy and profound, with layer upon layer of flavor seamlessly knit into a cohesive whole, offering dark berry, black cherry, exotic spice, black pepper and licorice that sail through the long, vivid finish. Has tremendous style, intensity and a long life ahead of it. Best from 2010 through 2022.

A puzzle. An excellent wine with an excellent reputation from an excellent vintage, but one that we felt didn't quite live up to some of its past incarnations. Has aromas of plum, raspberry, vanilla and oak, with many of the same notes reprising on the palate. As good as it is, there's something missing this year. Tasted twice; note reflects the higher score.

Bright, round and juicy. A gorgeous mouthful of cherry, blackberry and floral flavors, lingering on the finish with a touch of dark expresso to add interest. The tannins are polished, and the wine has a keen sense of balance, grace and harmony. Drink now through 2015.

Winemaker Stuart Bourne calls 2003 a thinking man's vintage, and he was clearly on form, crafting a delicious wine filled with blackberry tea aromas and flavors. It's just slightly creamy on the palate, but still firm, turning a bit crisp at the end. Drink 2008-2013.

Are you taken in by the glow of the color, by the vast and mighty Shiraz spice, by the yum factor? Go ahead, try to be a critic, to dismiss it as a Port, to pass over the delicious flavor of berries so ripe they're falling off the vine. So what if it is ripe as a Port? It's vibrant, the alcohol is completely integrated, and the wine is delicious. The tannins are smooth as chocolate, the flavors lasting, lifted, continuing to give long after each sip. It's a luxury. Treat yourself.

Fir tree, orange liqueur and meaty aromas; the palate offers a veneer of vanilla enveloping raspberry, plum and chocolate flavors. Not as lush as some of the older wines; feels crisp and lively in the mouth. Cranberry flavors punctuate a crisp finish.