Barolo Campe la Spinetta 2004

Good full medium red. Explosive aromas of strawberry, mocha, dried flowers, minerals and caramel. Powerful and tight-gained, with terrific concentration and grip. This very backward, minty wine comes across as cooler than the 2004 Barbarescos and all the better for it. A wine with outstanding depth of texture and big, building, thoroughly ripe tannins. This spent its first 18 months in new barriques and then was moved into stainless steel tank, from which it was to have been bottled the week after I tasted it. (An earlier sample, which had been taken from tank longer before I tried it, was wilder and more truffley, with sexy flavors of plum sauce, strawberry and beefsteak tomato, a more voluptuous texture and more extravagant sweetness. I had scored this sample about a point lower.)

Two years of aging in French oak help shape the overall quality of this beautiful wine. It opens with a luminous garnet color and segues to aromas of spice, anise seed, mineral and black fruit. This is a penetrating interpretation of Nebbiolo with firm tannins and a powerful finish.

The 2004 Barolo Campe has put on quite a bit of weight since it was bottled. This massive, powerful Barolo flows from the glass with its signature over-ripe aromatics and masses of dark fruit, tobacco, leather and spices. The tannins build impressively on the long finish. Buckle your chinstraps, this is not a wine for the timid. Ultimately, I am not sure there is enough fruit to stand up to the wine’s structural components over the long-term. In choosing to bottle riservas from his best vines (see below) Rivetti is running the risk of compromising his non-riserva bottlings. Anticipated maturity: 2014–2024.

The 2004 Barolo Campe possesses a sweet core of opulent fruit along with notes of spices, leather and menthol that develop in the glass. It is a big, opulent Barolo...

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opulent Barolo... "\

leather and menthol that develop in the glass. It is a big