Riesling

Common synonyms: Rhineriesling, Johannisberger, Gentile Aromatique, Hochheimer, Rizling, Rheinriesling, Rieslinger, Reynai, White Riesling

 

Parentage of the grape: likely indigenous to Germany

 

History of the grape: As with many varietals, exact details of Riesling’s origins are unclear. It is known that in 14th century Germany, attention shifted to white grape cultivation when it was obvious that red grapes weren’t up to snuff compared to those with more color and structure from neighboring countries. The first written mention of Riesling is dated March 13, 1435 when Count Katzenelnbogen at Russelsheim bought six vines of Riesling from Klaus Kleinfish for 22 soldi. From this point, there is written evidence throughout the 15th century of various sales and plantings around Germany as well as Austria and Alsace. The meticulous German artist Hieronymus Bosch makes a mention of it in his book on herbs, published in 1577, using the modern spelling: “Riesling is growing in the Mosel, the Rhein and the environs of Worms.” 

 

But Riesling’s biggest break came in the 18th century when the Benedictine Abbey in Johannisberg in the Reingau planted 294,000 Riesling vines after re-cultivating the fields. The wines made at the Abbey set the standard for quality Riesling production. Around the same time in Alsace, there was a movement to banish “inferior” grapes in favor of “noble” grapes such as Riesling. By the 19th century, Riesling was the leading grape in the Rheingau and Mosel.

 

There was a brief period in the early 20th century that Riesling fell out of grace in Germany, and there was a rapid decline of plantings in favor of trendy wines made from Silvaner and other varietals. But that trend was reversed as interest in Riesling’s versatility and age-worthiness caught on with serious wine enthusiasts. 

 

Riesling is produced at varying levels of residual sugar. This ranges from bone dry table wine to off dry and very sweet. Riesling is particularly prone to Botrytis cinerea or “noble rot,” which withers the grapes but yields concentrated flavors. This is an attribute that has helped produce some of the greatest dessert wines in the world. Germany and Austria use Riesling classifications which indicate levels of ripeness or sweetness, and the weight of residual sugars. 

 

In Germany (in ascending order of ripeness level):

Kabinett

Spätlese

Auslese

Beerenauslese

Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA, very rare, made from handpicked raisinated grapes, only released twice in a decade)

Eiswein (made from late harvest grapes that froze on the vine)

 

In Austria (in ascending order of must weight of the grapes, measured in Kosterneuberger Mostwaage degrees):

Kabinett - minimum 17 KMW

Spätlese - minimum 19 KMW

Auslese - minimum 21 KMW

Beerenauslese - minimum 25 KMW

Eiswein - minimum 25 KMW

Strohwein (dried on straw for a minimum of three months) - minimum 25 KMW

Ausbruch (dried grapes plus some late harvest wine added) - minimum 27 KMW

Trockenbeerenauslese - minimum 30 KMW

 

But aside from Austria, Germany and Alsace, Riesling has caught on in many parts of the world where cool-climate conditions are able to grow the grape. A wide range of styles is available from this globe-trotting varietal. 

 

Favorite decadent food pairing: Auslese level Riesling and Chinese takeout. 

 

Characteristics of the grape: petrol aromas, green apples, pear, honey, white flowers, honeysuckle. As it takes on more residual sugar and age, Riesling becomes more honeyed, with intense flavors of dried apricots, dried peaches, caramel and figs. 

 

Regions where the grape is currently important: Germany (especially Rheingau, Mosel, Pfalz); Austria (especially Wachau); Alsace, California, Washington, Oregon, New York, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Chile, Romania, Moldova, Italy, Hungary

 

Type or types of wines the grape produces: dry to sweet and sparkling