Nebbiolo Lampia

• January 2010

  Top Picks from 2009 Now that a new year is upon us, it’s time to reflect a bit on the wines tasted, and enjoyed, throughout 2009. Everyone publishes their list of top wines, heck just last Friday we published a couple of lists, but about what interested you,... Read more Top Picks from 2009 Now that a new year is upon us, it’s time to reflect a bit on the wines tasted, and enjoyed, throughout 2009. Everyone publishes their list of top wines, heck just last Friday we published a couple of lists, but about what interested you, the Snooth user. Today I want to take a look back at what interested me. I’ve put together some lists, grouped by grape variety, of wines that were not only great, but that are also available on your retailer’s shelves. These are the wines I want to buy again, or that get filed in the deepest recesses of my brain to be referenced when I’m faced with a particularly puzzling restaurant wine list. I’m not saying these are anything but some of my favorites. I think it’s a pretty good list, full of some surprising selections in many cases, but always open to discussion. Not with me, I chose them after all! So without further ado my many Wines of the Year, in no particular order. One of the Year's Best Buys This will not come as a surprise to anyone who knows me. I am a certifiable Nebbiolo freak. I love the grape and the wines, but the prices have gotten a bit out of hand lately. I always suggest that people turn to the best Nebbiolo d'Alba for the greatest values, but when a meticulous, artisanal producer starts offering Barolo from the village of Serralunga at a rock bottom price, well lets just say it's a great way to get my attention, and my wallet open. 2004 Guido Porro Barolo Vigna Santa Caterina Priced from $31.99 This was wonderfully fresh on the nose with heather floral tones and whisps of wild strawberry emerging with some air yet with time the floral elements took control of the aromatics and added a base of cigarette smoke, oily coffee beans and spearmint that was compelling... See page 2 for all of my favorite Nebbiolo wines Pinot Noir Tops My List In trimming each of my lists to fit this email the one I had the greatest difficulty with was the Pinot Noir list. There is simply a ton of great Pinot coming from around the world. I think my favorite Pinot of the year has to be the utterly surprising 2007 Johan Estate from Oregon. Sadly it seems that this particular wine is now sold out, so I did not include it on my list. If you happen to find a bottle, grab it! It's a real treat! 2008 Felton Road Central Otago Pinot Noir Priced from $32.99 Lightly smoky and earthy on the nose with watermelon and spicy cherry fruit that has a light candied cranberry tone. Fairly lightly bodied though juicy and transparent in the mouth with spicy mineral tones giving the wine an almost salty tinge that adds to the subtle... See page 3 for my favorite Pinots Cabernet Sauvignon Rounds out the Top Three Cabernet Sauvignon is still king of the red wine world. So many of the wines really are great, but the prices of the best, from California to Bordeaux, have become difficult to deal with. One great find this year that did not make my list is the 2005 Sausal Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. If I could have found it at retail it would have gotten top billing, a truly delicious California Cabernet that recalls the great wines of the past, at a very affordable price. Until it shows up on the retail shelves I guess we'll have to make due. 2006 Trinitas Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon Priced from $38.59 Intense yet fine with plenty of oak but strong black currant, tomato leaf , licorice, vanilla and mint tones. Lovely mouthfeel, rigid with a touch of woody sweetness and wonderfully pure fruit. The tannins are modest and a touch stiff but in proportion and well balanced... See page 4 for all of my favorite Cabernet based wines My Top wines of the Year Nebbiolo - Page 2 Pinot Noir - Page 3 Cabernet- Page 4 Zinfandel - Page 5 Sangiovese - Page 6 Syrah and Rhone Blends - Page 7 White Wines - Page 8 The Best of the Rest - Page 9 [PAGEBREAK] Guido Porro Barolo "Vigna Santa Caterina" 2004 This was wonderfully fresh on the nose with heather floral tones and whisps of wild strawberry emerging with some air yet with time the floral elements took control of the aromatics and added a base of cigarette smoke, oily coffee beans and spearmint that was compelling. Polished and broad in the mouth with wonderfully fresh strawberry fruit and elegant notes of anise and herbs, this remains lithe and refreshing in the mouth. Air adds to the power here, introducing a touch of pruniness and the fruit turns darker but retains a seamlessness and purity that is very attractive. A wonderful bottle of Barolo 93pts. Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2004 This offers astounding purity on the nose with a high toned appeal that melds jammy wild blackberry fruit with spicy soil tones and a touch of sweet wood. Structured and tough in the mouth with a seamless feel though packed with tannins. The tannins are so ripe and the wine so full of fruit that this is rich and flannelly in the mouth before the wine begins to close in the glass. Fine balance and deep balsamic tones accentuate the fruit and leads to a long, savory sweet finish. 96pts Oddero Barolo Bussia Soprano Vigna Mondoca 2004 The smoky nose opens slowly revealing a bit of Ivy, some gravel dust, fresh green herbs then darker notes of old wood, dried flowers and subtle dried fruit tones. 3+ Round with a big, powerful entry very ripe tannins and excellent supporting acidity 3 Great intensity of flavor in the mouth weight any excess weight, melon rind and spicy almost gooseberry fruits that develops a more red fruited aspect with time yet retains the spicy, almost exotic edge 3 Very focused finish with great intensity of mineral tones and huge reserves of fruit on the long, lingering finale-3. 95pts Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 2004 100% Lampia clone from vines averaging 20 years old. 15 days maceration in tini, temperature controlled if needed, Aged 10 months in small, 3-5 HL, French oak barrels where Malolactic fermentation takes place. Aged an additional 20 months in botte. Slightly liquory fruit at first with a touch of fresh sawdust on the nose then turning very sweetly fruited and expressive with handfuls of freshly picked aromatic herbs, sandy soil tones, bright spicy red fruits, ever so jammy currants, sharp notes of dry, white soil, beautifully perfumed. A powerful yet elegant expression in the mouth with great structural balance that support a rich core of red fruits with a subtle medicinal edge. Very aromatic in the mouth with almost spearminty sweet herbs, dark spice notes and an edge of fennel. This offers up an impressive core of sweet-tart wild cherry fruit that shines brightly on the finish accentuated by subtle fennel seed and bitter cherry pit tones. Classic Barolo in need of 5-7 years in the cellar 93pts. Castello di Neive Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2004 Smoky on the nose with a deep earthen spice and limestone notes. The fruit is still tight on the nose but in the mouth this unfurls seamlessly with fine elegance and low key fruit that is tight and unyielding but builds on the backend with a wonderfully richly fruited finish. thus deserves a few more years in bottle or several hours in a decanter but is super stuff! 92pts [PAGEBREAK]Pinot Noir Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate 2007 At first the nose seems dominate by oak influence with vanilla and spice tones but with time the earthy fruit begins to rise from the glass. Earthy and stemmy with lots of cola and root beer, this lacks some focus. Very fresh feeling with a natural quality to the fruit supported by big structural elements, the palate impression of this wine is certainly different than what the nose promises. Wild berry tones on the palate are a touch gamy and sauvage with earth and spices tones playing supporting roles. This pushes through with a bright and assertively refreshing finish. Give it another year though it’s excellent today. 90pt Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago 2008 Lightly smoky and earthy on the nose with watermelon and spicy cherry fruit that has a light candied cranberry tone. Fairly lightly bodied though juicy and transparent in the mouth with spicy mineral tones giving the wine an almost salty tinge that adds to the subtle stemmy and floral complexity of the wine. 92pts Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 2005 Very floral and sweet on the nose with cherry, mint and a light medicinal character that continues to gain sweetness in the glass and has great complexity revealing deep soil spice tones and a lovely violet pastille top note. In the mouth this is soft and rich and packed with sweet fruit that has a melony freshness to it. Deep, dark mineral tone weave through the fruit and offer compelling length on the finish. Very fine and drinking well though this has the potential to move up a notch with half a decades cellaring 94pts. Holdredge Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007 Sweet and a touch overtly woody at first with a bit of Grenache like garrigue, dirt, red flowers, a touch of toast and hot iron over a reticent core of very fresh cherry. With air really gains Pinot typicity with a dusty minerality and subtle redwood and sappy accents to the red fruit. Soft and almost viscous tasting, but feeling fine and elegant, though the wine does seem to ooze across the palate a bit. Very fine tannin and a fair bit of them. Very autumnal top notes, dried herbs, leaves, tea, touch of caramel apple, dark spicy black cherry with a touch of ludens cough drop to it. Good transparency with real lush ripeness to the flavors. Turns sappy and twiggy on the finish, which has an assertive mineral cut. Very perfumed on the very long finish but without a lot of intensity. Classic Pinot. 93pts Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 2005 Very floral and sweet on the nose with cherry, mint and a light medicinal character that continues to gain sweetness in the glass and has great complexity revealing deep soil spice tones and a lovely violet pastille top note. In the mouth this is soft and rich and packed with sweet fruit that has a melony freshness to it. Deep, dark mineral tone weave through the fruit and offer compelling length on the finish. Very fine and drinking well though this has the potential to move up a notch with half a decades cellaring 94pts. Antica Terra Pinot Noir Oregon 2006 Awesome aromatics with a beefy, black pepper tinged core that is accented by slight cola notes and lovely sweet/savory Burgundian fruit. On entry this seems a bit muddled with it's earthy presentation but quickly sorts itself out as the mid-palate brings together that earthiness with a bit of roast meat juiciness allowing the wild blackberry fruit to pop in all it's organic, herbal tinged glory. Finishes with good length and deep, dark fruit tones set off by a pumpkin pie spice note. Unusual and delicious. 93pts Melville Estate Pinot Noir 2008 Fantastic on the nose with animal fur, spicy, green herbs and stems, and incredible lift and height. This is a particular expression of Pinot that certain has its followers and dramatic appeal. There’s plenty of fruit lurking under the engagingly high-toned aromatics in the black raspberry and slightly boysenberry toned register. This is smooth and rich with rich strawberry and raspberry toned fruit that has a dusting of cocoa with a real deep core of wonderfully ripe fruit that has a lively, vegetal, rhubarb edge to it. . The finish is still a bit rough with tannin and acid poking out but the fruit is pure, fresh and nicely complex. 93pts Foley Estates Vineyard and Winery Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa 2007 Very floral at first with a light, whispery character that gains a soft, lightly vanilla and tamarind-scented edge to the soft strawberry fruit. There are backing notes of mocha, oaken spice that gain intensity but don’t cover the fruit. Silken on the palate with stealthy tannins and wonderfully supportive acids that keep the slight herb and cocoa toned cherry and strawberry fruit fresh and lively across the palate. Really very fruity on the backend yet with a refreshing slight green edge that yields to some more oak spice and some obvious, yet integrated wood tannins. This should benefit from another year or two in bottle but is already delicious and very well balanced with impressive length to the finish. 92pts [PAGEBREAK]Cabernet Sauvignon Based Wines Sausal Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 A wonderfully fruit driven nose with deep, smoky, dried chili notes, leafy ripe black currant fruit, hints of black olive, leather, dill, and crushed flowers and just the faintest traces of oaken spice. A bit light on the palate with fresh red fruits topped with green herbs and sweet bell pepper tones. This lacks some of the complexity found on the nose but offers up a refreshingly pure mouthful of slightly minty, slightly herbaceous, coffee tinged, unabashedly Cabernet fruit and finishes with the fuzzy mouthgrab of fruit tannin. 91pts Trinitas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Intense yet fine with plenty of oak but strong black currant, tomato leaf , licorice, vanilla and mint tones. Lovely mouthfeel, rigid with a touch of woody sweetness and wonderfully pure fruit. The tannins are modest and a touch stiff but in proportion and well balanced allowing the pure fruit tones to take center stage. This is not a powerhouse but a well balanced, well focused bottle of cab that recalls some of the classic wines of the 80’s and shows very little sign of the formidable 14.9% alcohol. 93pts. Château Cos-d'Estournel St.-Estèphe 2001 A bit of woody sweetness greets the nose with woodspice notes well integrated into the core of fresh black currants, dried chilies, and a hint of crushed flowers. The aromas here are amazingly well defined. Explosive freshness greets the palate with those silky tannins giving this good breadth but the height in the mouth is profound. It still has a hint of buttered herbs but the core of bitter cherry and black currant fruit powers thought e mid-palate leaving the backend saturated in slightly minty crème de cassis tones with hints of juniper and spice on the long finish. The integration here already is quite remarkable and the tension the wine retains is profound. A great bottle of Bordeaux in the making. 96pts Malk Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 2006 Black olive, black currant, intensely aromatic, milk chocolate, roast beef, lots of paprika and coriander spices. Like velvet on entry, good acidy very well concealed tannins, tons of plush, vanilla and cinnamon scented fruit. This is super refined, very fresh and a fruit bomb without the fat and weight of most fruit bombs. This is very easy to drink with a broadly appealing style and a structure that is soft enough to allow this to be enjoyed on it’s own but substantial enough to benefit from food. Really nice length on the fruity, spicy finish. 94pts Monsanto Nemo Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 100% new barrique Adult candy, that’s what this smells like. It’s got a nice hint of underbrush followed by ripe black currant fruits edged in pencil lead and herbs in a cool, precise register. On the palate this is rich but not unctuous with a seamless fell that carries the dense fruit effortlessly across the palate. The ripe fruit tones are framed with slightly spicy notes of cinnamon and cigar box on the back end. This has exceptional balance, nothing sticks out, there is no excess fat or weight and no sign of the heat of the vintage. It’s still youthful so there is a touch of tannin to resolve and the finish ends with a bit more oak spice than I would like but that should all work itself out in after a year or three in the cellar. While I am not usually a fan of Tuscan Cabernet this ranks among the best of its type. 94pts Boyd Cantenac 2005 This is just classic Bordeaux. Big and deep on the nose with classic cassis, deep earthy tones and well integrated spice tones from the wood ageing all in harmony. In the mouth there are tons of fuzzy fruit tannins and good acidity supporting a mass of plush ripe fruit. This may lack a touch of Margaux typicity, though that may come with time, but the cassis and wild black raspberry fruit is complemented by lovely notes of earth and mineral with an animale note on the back end that keeps this just a touch sauvage. A bit of refreshing acidity pokes out on the finish which is long and very pure with a touch of wood spice return on the finale. Compelling bordeaux and at great value in this vintage. Bordeaux as it used to be! This should live a long and storied life. 2013-2030 95pts [PAGEBREAK]Zinfandel Ravenswood Old Hill Zinfandel 2004 Lovely on the nose with it's array of earthy tones and purple berry fruits. Classic Old Hill in a great vintage. This has all the depth of fruit one could ask for. It's got superb, abundant yet ripe, sweet tannins backing everything up. Just about as good as Zinfandel gets. The depth here is married to phenomenal freshness and focus. 95pts Howell Mountain Vineyards Zinfandel Beatty Ranch 2005 Intensely dark fruited aromatics greet the nose with a very powerful backdrop of earth, mineral, brambly, and oak tones. Really evolves in the glass revealing notes of dried herb, dried flowers and rocky, shale notes to the pomegranate and grenadine fruit. Shows surprising restraint in the mouth with excellent focus and precision. The acid is bright and the tannins are fine-grained allowing the deep core of dark yet fresh plummy fruit to come to the fore. There is a lurking touch of peach nectar and vanilla but the fruit is accented by expressive spice and soil tones. A well behaved monster of a Zin with the structure and balance to reward cellaring Finishes with good length if a touch clumsy due to the youthful tannins. A bit of buttery wood lingers on the finale. 92pts Neyers Zinfandel High Valley Vineyards 2006 Fine fruit here with plum tones wrapping up some vanillin and fine French oak, smell expensive and refined. There are nice notes of fudgy chocolate and deep, dark blue and black fruits on the nose with a bit of earth, spice and pencil shavings on the edges. Wow this enters with admirable precision for such a big wine. Very well put together and layered with a cool, composed personality and seductive feel. Nice small, tight berry fruit with notes of spice, and herb breaking up the matteness and a touch of caramelly wood spice but there’s plenty of fruit to stand up to it. This is deep and precise with a sophisticated feel. Claret style Zin at it’s finest. Really nice finish is sneaky with subtle, almost grapy fruit and lovely integration. 93pts Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards Reserve Century Vines Zinfandel 2005 Very earthy on the nose with great briar tones, woodsy and even a touch feral with a whiff of mushroom adding complexity to the melon rind and pomegranate fruits. There is a lovely campfire note complete with toasted marshmallow. This is so rich in the mouth yet retains elegance due to the fine acidity and superb, ripe and polished tannins. This has the subtle power of old vines and while the red cherry fruit with it’s hint of watermelon may not have the spice or power of many other Zins the depth and jewel-like quality to the fruit is absolutely compelling. The finish offers up a bit spicier and allows the density of the tannins to build but this is just a fabulous bottle of Zinfandel. 94pts Carol Shelton Zinfandel Rocky Reserve Rockpile Vineyard 2005 Big and fruit bomb nose with intense orange peel and stewy raspberry fruit that is quite complex with tones of vanilla and game accenting the fruit. Gains in the glass adding toasted hazelnut, bitter cocoa and earth, clove tinged baked plum fruits. Surprisingly lean on entry with an intense attack of very spicy fruits and fine herbal top notes. The mid-palate reveals a core of sweet, earthy fruit rich with strawberry and raspberry tones. In a lighter style with lots of polished tannins and while it is a bit lean it really speaks with excellent soil tones. Lacks the chewy weight of many Zins but makes up for it with a fine, elegant feel and remarkably transparent red fruits. 94pts [PAGEBREAK]Sangiovese Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2007 Reticent on the nose but obviously deep and layered with slow to emerge jammy, spicy fruit with a nuance of oaky cocoa and a touch of a tarry, very extracted tone. In the mouth this is rich and powerful with ripe, precise fruit that shows fine balance and good mineral cut. With air this gains a lovely black cherry tone with some youthfully chalky tannins that don’t detract from the wine and add length to the finish. 92pts Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2006 This has a textbook nose of cherry, mineral, moss, tobacco and leather with woodsy undertones. On the palate this is elegant and silky with rich raspberry fruit touched with subtle hints of earth and herbs. The fruit has a nice crystallized edge to it and wonderful purity and cut finishing with a hint of mint. 92pts Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 90% Sangiovese/ 10% Canaiolo and Colorino Aged in Barrique, 25% of which were new. This is intensely aromatic with a strong rosemary/balsamic note that adds a lovely counterpoint to the red currant and candied red raspberry fruit tones. There are top notes of violet pastille and a whisper of vanilla adding gentle edges to the fruit. On the palate this has the classic rush of Sangiovese acids followed by juicy, wild strawberry fruit flecked with earth, herbs and mineral tones. There’s a slight roast meat savoriness to the mid-palate, with finely textured tannins adding some nice weight to the slightly under-ripe strawberry tones of the back end. This gains a little creaminess on the finish but end with a nice snap. 92pts Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards Alto Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Sangiovese 2005 This has a great raw character, it’s a bit too woody but the light sour cherry,spice, herb and fruit notes are both intense and distinctive. There is a stoniness that is mouth watering and lovely notes of mushroom and watermelon accents the fruit. Lean on entry with great acidity and a nice mineral cut to the cherry pie filling fruit. Impressive length and surprisingly complex with herb and spice notes, Perhaps a touch rustic though the good acids and tannins are well balanced, excellent austerity with a zest cherry finish. This has real Sangiovese character though many might want more body and a bit less herbal character. 91pts Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006 The nose here is a bit on the subtle side with a slightly medicinal edge to the candied blackberry fruit with hints of burnt beef fat. On the palate this offers up crisp tannins in a light, bright, energetic feeling medium bodied wine that is very precisely balanced. The fruit is wonderfully fresh with a wild berry edge that tightens up admirably on the finish yet remains elegant and unforced. It’s light on its feet and holds it’s 14% alcohol effortlessly. Lovely wine. 92pts [PAGEBREAK]Syrah and Rhone Blends Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2006 Very fine on the nose with superb purity to the syrah fruit with blackberry, floral/herbal nuance, granitic minerality and a touch of wood. Very well balanced in the mouth with bright red fruits given good thrust by the bright, juicy acids, finishes a bit short and tight at this point with lovely cranberry fruit in a lean, sinewy package. There is good stuffing here but it is tightly wound. 92pts Château de Beaucastel Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2005 As usual Coudoulet punches well above it's price class! This is so well framed with the assertive structure of 2005 wrapped in a deep flannelly blanket of spicy plum fruits. There are nice mineral, floral and earthen notes here but this is really about wonderfully pure, deep fruit. I love Coudoulet with some age on, I just, regrettably, finished my stash of 1998s which were absolutely singing. In a world where $50 Cheateauneuf have become the norm this remain a serious bargain. 91pts Qupé Syrah "Bien Nacido" 2006 A distinctively styled Syrah with plenty of peppery notes on the nose as well as hints of grilled meats and crushed autumnal flowers. In the mouth there is a lovely snap to the youthful texture and real depth here. The flavors range from slightly stringent red apple skins to juicier wild red berries but remain rather elegant and particularly fresh with a lovely finish of middle eastern spices and sapwood. This will benefit from several years in the cellar. 93pts Ojai Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard 2005 funky sweaty leather, intense, earthy, savory escargot, some raw coconutty wood here, boysenberry juice, lots of forest floor. Great complexity with only a subtle fruitiness. Very finely focused in the mouth with lots of soft tannins and finely integrated acids supporting soft, almost grapy, slightly peppery black raspberry fruit. This is rather agile on the palate for such a big wine. This has a slightly raw feel to it and will definitely benefit from another 2-4 years in the bottle. There’s a very attractive herbal note on the back end that contrasts nicely against fruit and the finish is a mélange of apple, pomegranate and boysenberry fruits that are fresh, pure and long with a hint of that sweet/sour jolly ranch character. 93pts Capel Vale Shiraz Regional South West Australia Margaret River 2005 A wonderfully intriguing nose sets this apart from many Shiraz. There's the typical notes of fruit and spice but underlying it all is a taut floral note and the whole thing is just so well focused and balanced that I keep coming back for another sniff. That focus translates wonderfully to the palate where this achieve a wonderful sense of harmony among the components and lets the very clear blackberry and boysenberry fruit really take center stage. This is just lovely, balanced and with the subtle evolving complexity of a great wine. 94pts [PAGEBREAK]White Wines Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2008 What a lovely nose, packed with fresh pineapple, passion fruit and lime tones that are backed with hints of cactus and a whisper of vanilla. There are even emergent notes of red raspberries playing in the mix. Great focus right up front with a rich but linear style that plays off the excellent balance in the mouth. There’s a touch of fresh almond nuttiness right up front then rich flavors of Asian pear, minerals, and apricot croissant that end with a zesty and yet ever so creamy finish. This would be an excellent wine with a holiday roast Turkey but should work exceptionally well with a broad range of foods. 94pts Belle Pente Pinot Gris Reserve 2006 A wild nose, gorgeous slightly honied fruit nose, yes its hot but so rich with great wax, incense, dried orchard fruits pressed flower and forest floor tones, noticeably sweet with plenty of acid to balance it, deep dried pear and spiced peach tones with honied pineapple nuances on the quite thick and powerful but still elegant, mid-plate with deep honey notes on the backend that dips a bit on the finish but has a nice balsamic toned dried apricot finale. Big rich sweet and delicious, bring on the foie! 94pts Kick On Riesling 2007 At first a reticent nose, what is here is lightly honeyed, with nice pressed floral tones, very elegant and very retrained, there is some real salty minerality that grows on the nose with emerging notes of petrol, quince paste, dusty stones and a hint of vitamin. Very fine entry, big acids but fairly well integrated, nice finesse in the mouth with some rather subtle but intense mandarin orange, almost quince, mineral and a huge almost salty mineral finish, then some peach pit and lime pith note, absolutely lovely stuff. I wine I want to drink more of. 92pts Coenobium "Rusticum" 2007 Very big VA right off the bat tbut that is followed by herbs, chalk, leather, roasted chestnut, salty prosciutto tones all over a lovely balsamic base. Bright and crisp in the mouth with nice sprightly tannins up front that are quickly subsumed by the candied, burnt orange rind fruit and biting mineral tones that linger on the exceptionally long finish. Great balance and finesse here with everything in place. 94pts Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett 2007 Sharp and dusty on the nose this offers up a balanced array of crisp orchard fruits with notes of apple and unripe peach above the base of dusty earth. Sweet and broad on the attack before the lemon and green apple tones burst through in a bolt of crisp, lean freshness. The finish here is focused and very acid driven giving the impression of a zesty, racy wine but one that is brilliant! Offers lovely Kabinettiness! Drink 2009-2016 92pts Stuhlmuller Vineyards Alexander Valley Estate Chardonnay 2007 A lovely nose with nuanced honey, toasted wood, nutmeat, yellow flowers and dusty earth tone. In the mouth the texture is just fantastic, bright and balanced with intense yet tense and focused mandarin orange, apricot and fig notes that are framed with just a hint of almond and measured oak notes. The finish is fruity, clean and crisp with refreshing acids and a delicacy to the flavors that makes this a winner for geek and novice alike. 93pts [PAGEBREAK]The Best of the Rest Moric Neckenmarkter Blaufrankisch 2006 Boy was this beautiful! I loved everything about this wine. Burgundy in Austria! The nose smells like a farmer's hands with a touch of wet earth, a hint of nutty pipe tobacco and rushed black fruits with just an edge of sappy bark. In the mouth this is pure, elegant and refined with a wonderfully fresh fruited, grape/black cherry. black currant fruit is presented in a crisp, tense, perfectly balanced package. Killer wine 93pts Bodegas Miguel Merino Rioja Reserva 2000 Full and deep on the nose with roast peach, wood spice, leather, game, white truffle and white chocolate tones then with air this gains notes of saw dust, old books, cocoa powder, sweet red licorice, cherry pie, vanilla, beefy, lovely complex and balanced nose. The entry is rich and soft with bright acid driven fruit flavors, layered and juicy with a balsamic edge and dried bark, tea and rosehip notes to the bright cranberry/cherry fruit. Classic interplay of red fruit and vanilla in the mouth, lovely mid weight wine with a really elegant feel and a haunting sweetness to the fruit, finishes with sour cherry, vanilla and café-au-lait tones in balance and with good, bright length. A wonderful wine that is drinking perfectly today. 92pts Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley 2006 Black cherry, vanilla, tobacco leaf, herbs, earth, and a touch of French oak are all nicely balanced. This is seamless on entry with excellent purity of black cherry fruit. The acidity creeps up on you a little but the fruit is very precise and fresh with lovely suggestions of herb and tomato with fine shadings of cigarbox and cedar. This is refined and elegant with excellent length in a surprisingly fresh and juicy style that really highlights the red fruits. 93pts Mettler Family Vineyards Petite Sirah 2005 Deep nose has nice notes of crushed currants, spice, tree bark, red currants, earth, clay, and subtle medicinal/menthol tones with a hint of curing tobacco. Big and bright in the mouth with the depth and richness that PS can deliver yet very little fat or flash. This is deep and plush with muscular fruit and ripe tannins. There’s a floral almost rose like note in the mouth with lots of earthy spice framing the black currant and mulberry fruit. Really well balanced particularly since the simplicity and rusticity of PS has not been entirely finessed away. Lovely freshness with a nice licorice/menthol medicinal tone and plenty of milk chocolate notes on the moderately long finish. Embryonic but super stuff even now. 94pts Wine of the night! Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia 2006 An immediate, intense nose of deep, dark fruit with a muscular disposition that reveals green floral, balsam and spice notes above the coiled fruit. Big and dense in the mouth this will need a bit of time to show well though it is layered and long with exceptional intensity and great acidity that is couched in the chewy fruit. This has the feel of very ripe, perfectly ripe fruit. 2011-2018 92pts These three wines just offer a glimpse of what I've included in the complete article. So follow this link to read all about my favorite wines of 2009. From Pinot to Cabernet, Blaufrankisch to "Orange Wine", there's something for everyone in my top 40!    (hide)

  From the article GDP Wines of the Year 2009

  
  

• October 2008

  Wines tasted during this visit; 2005 Bussiador Chardonnay 91pts 2005 Barbera d’Alba Conca Tre Pile 87pts 2004 Barolo 89pts 2005 Langhe Nebbiolo Il Favot 88pts 2004 Barolo Colonello 95pts 2004 Barolo Romirasco 95pts There are names in Piemonte that breed not only admiration... Read more Wines tasted during this visit; 2005 Bussiador Chardonnay 91pts 2005 Barbera d’Alba Conca Tre Pile 87pts 2004 Barolo 89pts 2005 Langhe Nebbiolo Il Favot 88pts 2004 Barolo Colonello 95pts 2004 Barolo Romirasco 95pts There are names in Piemonte that breed not only admiration but also confusion. Conterno is certainly one of them with Paolo, Giacomo, and Aldo all producing fine yet distinct wines. Of these producers I can comfortably say I knew most about Giacomo, least about Franco, and was simply under the wrong impression about Aldo. During an earlier visit to the region I marveled at the castle under construction that is both home to, and winery for Poderi Aldo Conterno. The fantasy construction just added to the misconceptions I had about this famous estate. With first class marketing, and a distinct image, I had been under the impression that Poderi Aldo Conterno was approaching mass-market status. Their wines had undergone several shifts over the past few years, beginning with a lighter style adopted early in the 90’s, which was followed by a flirtation in the late 90’s with a decidedly more modern style. In a philosophical shift it was decided in 1998 to change methods in both the vineyards and the cellars to produce a fresher, more fruit driven Barolo. With a few years under their belt and the wholesale shift to neutral botte for the Baroli almost complete, Aldo Conterno has returned to the top rank of Barolo Producers in what can only be called an enlightened traditional style. As part of this shift it was decided to use only Slavonian oak botte for the ageing of Barolo. Due to the fact that several new botte were purchased in recent years people had the wrong impression that the wines had gotten oakier. Ironically the move to less oak did in fact have the opposite effect for several years. While this oak was obvious, the fact that it was from botte and Slavonian in origin has meant that it took only a few short years to integrate into the wines in question. I came away from the meeting with young Giacomo Conterno surprised at the small scale of the operation. Not that it is small but rather that it all seems much more personal than their brand image would have one believe. The quality of the wines was also a somewhat pleasant surprise but truth be known I had tried a pair of Baroli blind earlier in the year and was so impressed with them I figured I owed it to myself to investigate further. Of course this is a very storied family. Giacomo Conterno is arguably the most famous producer of Barolo and the grandfather of both Roberto Conterno who now runs that estate and the young Giacomo Conterno I had the pleasure of tasting with. Their respective fathers, Brothers Aldo and Giovanni, split due to philosophical differences in 1967. Aldo had spent a few years in the US during the late 50’s when seeds were planted that would eventually lead to the creation of Poderi Aldo Conterno. In 1969 Aldo purchased the Favot farm in Monforte. He had been searching for property in Monforte since he always remembered his grandfather had said there were two great terroirs in the Langhe; Serralunga and Monforte. Since Giovanni was already working in Serralunga, Aldo opted to start anew in Monforte, and more specifically in the subzone of Bussia. As part of the agreement made during the split existing stocks of Giacomo Conterno wines were to be shared by the two brothers so all that pre 1968 Aldo Conterno wine is in fact from the Giacomo Conterno stocks. Great wines indeed. The expansive Southwest-facing vineyard of the Favot estate is home to 3 great Barolo Cru bottlings, each with their own distinctive character, as well as the base bottling. This was until recently known as Bussia Soprana but now includes some fruit that, while part of the same vineyard, is actually located in the adjoining village of Barolo, thus the designation has changed to simply Barolo. I did not get the chance to taste the Cicala Cru on this visit as the 2004 was mostly destroyed by hail, but this usually is the most structured bottling and fairly screams Nebbiolo. This parcel of vines is predominantly Lampia blended with Michet. The ageworthyness of these wines in indisputable as attested to by a bottle of the 1978 had just a few years ago that was simply brilliant and still youthful. The Colonello Cru on the other hand is a wine that screams of the terroir and as Giovanni says, has a Teutonic character, it is strict and focused, predominantly Michet clone. The crown jewel of the three crus is undoubtedly the Romirasco. Rarely bottled on it’s own this vineyard has historically been the heart and soul of the Granbussia Riserva bottling. Fortunately for us they are now bottling a bit of the Romirasco separately and it must be experienced for it’s exotic spice character is simply like no other Barolo. Giovanni says this speaks of Conterno with its Asian character, coy and spicy. While Barolo is the star here there is a full range of wines worth tasting but be forewarned a much more modern approach is taken with them as is illustrated in the following notes. Bussiador Chardonnay 2005 Both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are done in 100% new barrique with a light+ toast level. The highest part of the Favot estate to the northeast of the property from 30 year old vines. Opened at cellar temperature this had fairly explosive and complex aromatics. Starting off slowly with a touch of banana and sandy soil notes this quickly adds a touch of incense, candle wax, some obvious toast notes and lightly candied pineapple. With air this gets progressively spicier with candied ginger notes and pie spice tones then top notes of apple blossoms/small yellow apples emerge. Very bright acids at first yield impressive concentration and while this is 14.9% alcohol it doesn’t feel hot and is well balanced. Richly flavored with complexity that matches the nose, layered with toasty notes accenting dried fruit tones followed by slatey, almost salty minerality. Giovanni comments that this is the terroir of Barolo after all. Finishes with good length and a touch of tannin. The wood is obvious but well integrated as is the mouth-watering acidity that leads to a finale of slightly salty butterscotch. Certainly an atypical Chardonnay but this is very interesting and well made. 91pts http://www.snooth.com/wine/poderi-aldo-conterno-langhe-chardonnay-bussiador-2005 Barbera d’Alba Conca Tre Pile 2005 Aged 12-15 months in 100% New Barriques The aromatics are intense here with immediate cigar box notes of feral, earthy tones. The fruit has a subtle foxy edge to the red plum/baked plum fruit but there is a spike of dark wood spice and ample tones of vanilla and baking spices. Bright acids right up front are refreshing and accentuate the red plum and bright wild berry fruit on the mid-palate. Elegant and balanced with a touch of minerality that balances the fruit and drives the cleansing acids of the finish. Just a touch of tannin becomes obvious on the finish with its jolly rancher cherry and watermelon tones ending on a touch of vanilla and cigar box. A nice Barbera with tons of ripe acids keeping everything lively and fresh but weighed down just a touch by the wood. 87pts http://www.snooth.com/wine/poderi-aldo-conterno-barbera-dalba-conca-tre-pile-2005-1 Barolo 2004 This replaces the old Bussia Soprana bottling as with this vintage the fruit is now 80% Bussia and 20% from the commune of Barolo though they are contiguous parts of the same vineyard. The Barolo fruit used to go into the Favot but the vines have matured and are now producing juice worthy of being called Barolo. This macerates for 2-3 weeks in stainless before ageing for 2 years in Botte of Slavonian oak. A bit heavy on the nose with syrupy fruit, driven by soil tones with a touch of oyster shell then a hint of caper berry, turning a bit spicy with a touch of white pepper, not very giving aromatically. In the mouth this enters a bit block with gritty tannins and a nice traditional if tough feel. The tannins certainly need more time to integrate but the balance is good and the wine puts on weight with air revealing dark, chewy cherry fruit with medicinal herb tones and a touch of fudgy caramellato. The midpalate gains a bit of spice with notes of coriander, beetroot, and strawberry seeds adding complexity and brightening the red fruits. The finish is cut short by the rather imposing tannins which are a touch drying and allows the finale to be dominated by slight menthol tones and emerging minerality. A very solid Barolo Normale that looks to be an excellent candidate for improvement in the cellar. 89pts http://www.snooth.com/wine/poderi-aldo-conterno-barolo-2004-1 Langhe Nebbiolo Il Favot 2005 Younger vines, up to 15-20 years of age, go into this 100% Nebbiolo wine that is aged for 18 months in 100% new barrique. This opens with intense and characteristic aromas of Nebbiolo, a touch of tamarind then floral top notes, slightly dried cherry fruit, and a hint of menthol but also has obvious wood tones of spice, toast and vanilla, which are balanced. The acidity pops out on entry followed by well managed tannins in a medium bodied package that offers up dark fruit with a touch of peachy overtones some herbal freshness and layers of medicinal spice and aromatic roots. With air the Nebbiolo tannins pop on the mid-palate offering more focus and mouthgrab that leads to a clean, fresh finish, which shows the fruit sweetening a bit. 88pts http://www.snooth.com/wine/poderi-aldo-conterno-langhe-nebbiolo-il-favot-2005 Barolo Colonello 2004 A 2 week maceration is followed by several months in stainless before being aged 28 to 30 months in Slavonian oak botte. A touch of drying grass greats the nose then is followed by very precise emerging notes of sea grass and menthol. The tight dark fruit emerge slowly and remain reticent in the glass but the menthol and mineral tones gain in impact. The mouth feel here is fantastic, cool and poised, power without much weight this feels facetted and chiseled and much like the nose remains tight though it does offer up glimpses of fresh fruit, earthy wild cherry and a touch of subtle pomegranate that is intriguing. The mineral cut on the long finish is refreshing and incipient vitamin/mineral notes are refreshing. While this is very tight a previous bottles was spectacular with classic fruit, sottobosco, and truffle notes that blew me away. Based on the two notes I suggest putting this away for years. 2014-2030 95pts. http://www.snooth.com/wine/poderi-aldo-conterno-barolo-colonnello-barolo-2004/ Barolo Romirasco 2004 A 2 week maceration is followed by several months in stainless before being aged 28 to 30 months in Slavonian oak botte. Unlike the stern Colonello this is flamboyant with intense floral tones, layered sappy fruits, sweet, gentle spice tones and a touch of espresso foam. In the mouth this is downright suave with very fine tannins and a broad mouth feel that remains remarkably delicate. Spicy red fruits are complimented my tones of maduro tobacco, iron driven earthy tones and intense top notes of aromatic grasses, minerals and exotic spice tones. The wild cherry fruit is intense on the palate and turns darker on the backend leading to the finish with it’s unfolding layers of subtle tea, middle eastern spice notes and almost a touch of curry. This really has lovely clarity and amazing transparency with wonderfully ripe tannins. A bit outside the norm for Barolo with it’s spicy exotic character but completely compelling. 2010-2024 95pts http://www.snooth.com/wine/poderi-aldo-conterno-barolo-romirasco-2004/    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Poderi Aldo Conterno comes... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• September 2008

  One enters the courtyard at Burlotto through a small door in a big metal gate. Once that gate closes you could easily be stepping decades back in time, if one can ignore the incessant ringing of the phone that is. During my visit with Fabio there was no one else available to answer... Read moreOne enters the courtyard at Burlotto through a small door in a big metal gate. Once that gate closes you could easily be stepping decades back in time, if one can ignore the incessant ringing of the phone that is. During my visit with Fabio there was no one else available to answer the phone so we were followed wherever we went by the ringing of Burlottos portable handset. Well that did not detract in the least from the experience at this remarkable estate. One of the true pioneers in Barolo, Burlotto was the first to bottle wine for individual sale. What you buy today looks much the same as it did back than, as the label is essential unchanged. The winemaking philosophy has also remained unchanged. Burlotto continues to rely on natural yeasts and intervene as little as possible in the vinification of their wine. Open topped wood tini are still used for much of the fermentation and with the flagship Barolo, are not temperature controlled except in the direst of circumstances. In a nod to modernity these 50 to 70 hectoliter vessels are made from French oak but fear not they are neutral vessels at this point. The ageing vessels on the other hand are a blend of Slavonian and French oak old enough to have lost the ability to mark the wines with extraneous flavors. The mentality here is to intervene only when necessary, this is after all a family business and many people rely on these wines for their livelihood so who can begrudge them the rare intervention? Not I. While one continues to tour the property you can really get a sense of how integrated the operation is in the lives of the family. Walking from slightly decayed though in the process of being restored, grand scale room to grand scaled room it is easy to get lost in the notion of a simpler, freer time. Though a trained Enologist Fabio respects the wines of Burlottos past and retains much of the winemaking of the past. Nowhere is this more evident than with the cru from the Monvigliero Vineyard. Located in Verduno, the Monvigliero vineyard produces amazingly distinctive wines renowned for their aromatics that recall black olives. Produced from vines over 50 years old with full southern exposition, the roots dig deep into the soil and draws great complexity from the mix of 40% lime, 30% sand, and 30% clay that is found in Verduno. This high percentage of sand and the classic Marne di S. Agata rich in sea fossils is responsible for the lighter, more elegant expression of Nebbiolo that is typically associated with Verduno. While the majority of Burlottos holdings are in Verduno they also own a prized parcel of the famed Cannubi vineyard. They produce a range of Baroli but the techniques used during the production of their Monvigliero bottling remain unique in the zone. This benchmark wine undergoes a traditional vinification and by that I mean not only that it is macerated for a full 60 days, virtually unheard off nowadays, and fermented in those open top tini, with cappello sommerso but all the work is done manually, or pedali as the case may be! The grapes for the Monvigliero are dumped by hand into the tini then they are tread by foot, an anachronism in Piemonte for sure but there is a reason behind this seeming madness. By using only soft feet to crush the grapes, and thus keeping the seeds intact, one avoids extracting their hard, astringent tannins that can dominate a wine that has enjoyed such a prolonged maceration. This throwback technique allows Fabio to extract the maximum from his musts without throwing the wine off balance! After the fermentation is completed the wine rests for 30 months in neutral oak botti then it’s allowed to rest for an additional 2 years after bottling. The proof of course is in the drinking and as this shows when you’re drinking Burlotto you’re drinking well! Elatis Rosato 2007 A Vino da Tavola blend of 55% Nebbiolo/ 35% Pelaverga/ 10% Barbera. 2.9% RS A little yeasty on the nose with notes of green watermelon, dry herbs, strawberry and a touch of sandy glass. The sugar shows up on the entry with is obviously but balanced by a touch of tannin and good supporting acidity so it adds more weight that sweetness to the soft, cherried red fruits on the mid-palate. Develops a bit of sweet spices that recalls cinnamon and has an edge of pink peppercorn leading to the finale, which offers exuberant waves of fruit. Finishes long for a rose revealing a touch of minerality that balances out the watermelon candy tones nicely. What every white Zin wishes it were! This is one happy wine. 88pts Verduno Pelaverga 2007 1 week maceration in tini, temperature controlled to retain freshness and aromatics, Malolactic fermentation in Stainless followed by three months in botte. Intensely herbal on the nose at first this slowly segues into layers of mineral, thyme, cherry juice and spice that lean heavily towards white pepper. A lighter weight wine yet with some tough tannins keeping things wrapped a bit tightly, good balance with soft acidity. The flavors build in intensity with notes of spicy wild red berries and light gamey meat notes playing off each other. Notes of mahogany and herb add some interest on the back end and lead to a long, fresh, slightly peppery finish that is cleansing and ends on a brisk note of raspberry fruit. 90pts Dolcetto d’Alba 2006 1 week maceration in tini, temperature controlled to retain freshness and aromatics, Malolactic fermentation in Stainless followed by ageing, half in stainless and half in botte for several months depending on the vintage. Lovely floral tones soar from the glass, big violets then some dark coal, mineral notes, black earth, black cherry builds into lovely rich deep, dark fruits with background notes of sweet, tropical flowers but they never obscure the depth of fruit. At first this appears lean and elegant in the mouth but quickly adds impressive density with strong structural elements that make this both chewy and bright. This retain great freshness to the palate that offers up great inner mouth perfume of cocoa, sweet spices, floral and red berry notes but is a bit blocky at this point. It finishes with impressive follow through and good purity so it looks like it may need some time to relax a bit in the mouth. 89pts Barbera d’Alba 2006 10 day maceration in tini, temperature controlled if needed, Malolactic fermentation in Stainless followed by about 10 months in botte. This offers intense and focused notes of black fruit and moist earth that are so typical of Barbera. With time notes of rose petals, sweet spices, and a touch of forest fruits add to the perfume. Elegant with lovely balance in the mouth one finds very lovely balance here with fine acid serving like the frame of a kite supporting a sheen of transparent fruit, no need for tannin here. This is easy to like with pure black raspberry fruit and subtle notes of black spices and rosemary adding interest. The finish is classic Barbera, bracing with cleansing acids offering great precision to the spread of black cherry fruit. Maybe a bit simple but broad and with good length. 90pts Barbera d’Alba Aves 2006 This comes from a select parcel of the vineyard that offers a better exposition yielding grapes that are a bit riper. Yields are kept a bit lower here as well to add to the richness of the wine. 10 day maceration in tini, temperature controlled if needed, Malolactic fermentation in Stainless followed by about 10 months in wood, half in barrique and half in 30 HL botti. The percentage of new wood varies as barriques are replaced as needed. A bit smoky on the nose but packed with dark fruit. There is an obvious touch of chocolaty oak with some toasted cookie/toasted coconut notes as well so some of the wood was recently replaced. This is well balanced and certainly has more impact across the midpalate than the regular Barbera but there are super acids here and they keep everything lively. The pure, deep, spicy fruit is enlivened by the acidity and while there is a bit of cheek-grabbing tannin here it is unobtrusive. Not the most complex wine but the wood spice tones do add a bit to the ever so jammy black berry fruits. Eminently likeable and while the tannin does creep in around the edges the acid offer great pushback and leads to a touch of mulberry on the finish. 92pts Freisa 2006 1 week maceration in tini, very variable elevage due to vintage character and quantities produced. Averages 3500 btls so usually fit only in smaller vessels. Vines were planted in 200, 2004 was the first vintage. Offers a bit of a winemaking challenge as this tends very heavily towards reduction. A bit reticent on the nose but with time opens to reveal earthy, red berry fruit with a slight confiture edge, a bit flat but does add a touch of spice with time. The palate is full of contrasts, the texture is light and bright with clean acids and a touch of stiff tannin yet the flavors are dark and tarry. This shows a touch of bitterness and leans towards the savory end of the spectrum with notes of blue slate, bresaola, and old wood. Finishes with solid intensity of flavor and reveals a core of Ranier cherry fruit but ends on a very brisk note with austere tannins on the finale accentuating the slight bitterness of the wine. This would be better served with food. 86pts Nebbiolo d’Alba 2006 A young vines cuvee. 1 week maceration in tini, temperature controlled if needed, Malolactic fermentation in Stainless followed by about 20 months in botti. This starts off with a gently floral tone and a tarry top note over small forest fruits but continues to open and evolve revealing very thistle herbal tones, sandy soil notes, a touch of seaweed, slightly smoky, not fruit a fruit driven nose, though there is a nice base of lightly roasted red cherry fruit emerging, but with excellent complexity. Cool and crisp on entry with good density and lovely, very ripe tannins that offer impressive density for simple Nebbiolo. The flavors are fresh and mimic the nose with their herbal and soil driven tones. Tangy in the mouth with a slightly candied edge to the cherry and wild raspberry fruits, develops a bit of pomegranate and intriguing mineral tones on the back of the palate which lead to a very long, crisp fruit skin finish. This is great Nebbiolo and is example A in why Nebbiolo d’Alba is the greatest wine value on earth! 92pts Barolo 2004 15 days maceration in tini, temperature controlled if needed, Malolactic fermentation in Stainless followed by about 30 months in botti. Opens with a whiff of tar, which is followed by very pure fruit notes and a strong balsam edge that highlights the herbal qualities of the nose. Fine open rose notes emerge but then the aromatics draw back a bit. Fresh and crisp with great tannins framing the medium weight here, really fine balance, precise. Dark fruits but still feeling very fresh, perhaps a bit closed but very pure expression of Nebbiolo with red fruits, rose petals, green herb and slight menthol tones that lead to a cleansing precise finish. The wine is consistent from nose to finish but feels a bit folded in on itself. Seemingly a textbook base Barolo but in need of3- 5 years in the cellar. 90pts Barolo Acclivi 2004 A blend of their three finest vineyards, Monvigliero, Neirane, and Rocche dell’Olmo. 15 days maceration in tini, temperature controlled if needed, Malolactic fermentation in Stainless followed by about 30 months in botti. Intense ripe fruits greet the nose, red fruits with a slightly musky tone, pomegranate, menthol and a subtle dried fruit tone all add to the mix. Really develops fine complexity with emerging tones of dried strawberry, dried mushroom, a bit of calcium and fine women’s perfume. A bit weighty, like plush hanging drapes with folds and pleats to the dark core of fruit. The fine acidity keeps things bright in the mouth and the balanced tannins support the layered palate which features notes of earth, faded Middle Eastern spices, licorice and floral tones. Finishes very tight with taut red fruits leading to an earthy finale with notes of walnut and dried mushroom adding interest. 92pts Barolo Monvigliero 2004 This benchmark wine undergoes a traditional vinification and by that I mean not only that it is macerated for a full 60 days, virtually unheard off nowadays, and fermented in those open top tini, with cappello sommerso but all the work is done manually, or pedaly as the case may be! Tread by foot, an anachronism in Piemonte for sure but there is a reason behind this seeming madness. By using only soft feet to crush the grapes, and thus keeping the seeds intact, one avoids extracting their hard, astringent tannins that can dominate a wine that has enjoyed such a prolonged maceration. This throwback technique allows Fabio to extract the maximum from his musts without throwing the wine off balance! After the fermentation is completed the wine rests for 30 months in neutral oak botti then it’s allowed to rest for an additional 2 years after bottling. Huge intensity on the nose here with an initial blast that is almost bacony. Richly perfumed with notes of leather, rose stems, a bit of dried pork, very perfumed and almost Christmas holiday spice like in nature with a touch of ginseng. Big plummy fruit emerges with time, as does the trademark black olive note, very complex if atypical. Approachable and elegant with good acidity and very refined tannins that never get in the way of enjoying the depth of the wine. Opens with fine notes of tea and tartuffi, then dark fruits balanced by aggressive minerality, not overly fruit driven but there is plenty of dark plum fruit and a slight candy apple top note. Tannins are so soft and ripe that this almost feels like animal fat in the mouth! The finish is long and savory with a slightly peppery fruit just peaking out on the finale. This may very well close down in the bottle but is a brilliant effort! 94pts Barolo Cannubi 2004 100% Lampia clone from vines averaging 20 years old. 15 days maceration in tini, temperature controlled if needed, Aged 10 months in small, 3-5 HL, French oak barrels where Malolactic fermentation takes place. Aged an additional 20 months in botte. Slightly liquory fruit at first with a touch of fresh sawdust on the nose then turning very sweetly fruited and expressive with handfuls of freshly picked aromatic herbs, sandy soil tones, bright spicy red fruits, ever so jammy currants, sharp notes of dry, white soil, beautifully perfumed. A powerful yet elegant expression in the mouth with great structural balance that support a rich core of red fruits with a subtle medicinal edge. Very aromatic in the mouth with almost spearminty sweet herbs, dark spice notes and an edge of fennel. This offers up an impressive core of sweet-tart wild cherry fruit that shines brightly on the finish accentuated by subtle fennel seed and bitter cherry pit tones. Classic Barolo in need of 5-7 years in the cellar 93pts.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Step back in time with... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

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