Gold Grape

• October 2009

  We were talking the other day about the Norton grape and I had mentioned that there was a NOVA winery that had just won a double gold with theirs. Well, I thought that I should give it a review to give people a little more insight as to what this wine is all about. This is one that I... Read moreWe were talking the other day about the Norton grape and I had mentioned that there was a NOVA winery that had just won a double gold with theirs. Well, I thought that I should give it a review to give people a little more insight as to what this wine is all about. This is one that I cheerfully recommend. http://www.corrundum.net/post/Oh-crap-another-Norton-Not-this-time-buddy.aspx    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Barrel Oak Winery Norton 2008 by Jimmy Cocktail

  
  

• October 2009

  The NYT article above is correct. BOTH California Zinfandel AND Italy's Primitivo are derived from the Croatian grape Mali Plavac. Zin made its way to the US via Austria Hungary immigration in the 19th century (from NY to Cali during the Gold Rush), and Primitivo made its 200 mile... Read moreThe NYT article above is correct. BOTH California Zinfandel AND Italy's Primitivo are derived from the Croatian grape Mali Plavac. Zin made its way to the US via Austria Hungary immigration in the 19th century (from NY to Cali during the Gold Rush), and Primitivo made its 200 mile journey from Dubrovonic to Pugila via the Adriatic sea during the high times of the Roman Empire. Grgich started the Zin / MP debate because he noted the similarities between Zinfandel and his home-town Mali, and it was later proven to be correct. Upon his return to his home country back in the 90s after it regained its independence, he was a driving force to get Croatia's wine industry back on its feet again - its come a long way, and I believe before too long they will be producing some of the most sought-after wines in the world. Anyway - all history and opinions aside - my point is - after hording the last of my bottles of MP since my visit there, I'm happily starting to see more stores carrying Croatian wines. For those of you that are both Zinfandel and Primitivo fans, I would strongly urge you seeking out Mali Plavac (notably Zlatan) and giving it a try, you wont be disappointed.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Preferred Primitivo by TL NJ

  
  

• September 2009

  Here in Virginia, a lot of wineries attempt to make a Norton wine however few succeed in bringing out the best of this grape. There is one that currently stands out which is the 2008 Norton from Barrel Oak Winery (http://www.barrleoak.com). It recently took a double gold for best red... Read moreHere in Virginia, a lot of wineries attempt to make a Norton wine however few succeed in bringing out the best of this grape. There is one that currently stands out which is the 2008 Norton from Barrel Oak Winery (http://www.barrleoak.com). It recently took a double gold for best red wine in an international competition (not sure of which one I'll try and get that info the next time I am there).    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Norton - a brief history of... by Jimmy Cocktail

  
  

• September 2009

  I was asked by a fellow snoother to write a bit about Norton wines after I had expressed some opinions regarding same in another forum thread. So in an effort to comply and, for what it's worth, share my humble knowledge of the subject, I present the following: I moved to Missouri... Read moreI was asked by a fellow snoother to write a bit about Norton wines after I had expressed some opinions regarding same in another forum thread. So in an effort to comply and, for what it's worth, share my humble knowledge of the subject, I present the following: I moved to Missouri in 1994 after having lived the prior ten years in Sonoma County, CA. My taste buds were pretty well adapted to the noble wine grapes grown in California's perfect climate. I frequented the great wineries of Napa and Sonoma and my first impression of Missouri wines was not very favorable. Then I learned that the true vinifera grapes I was used to didn't survive in the harsh Midwest weather. However, hybrids of some of the grapes such as Chardonel (a Chardonnay hybrid) and Vidal Blanc (a French hybrid of Ugni Blanc and Seibel) did do well and produced some excellent wines. But, the one that really surprised me was a wine I didn't know called Norton (sometimes also called Cynthiana). First, I should begin by stating that Norton is a grape that is uniquely American in origin which is principally used to produce a dry red wine. It was discovered and introduced to the world by Dr. Daniel Norton (1794-1842) of Virginia. It was first mentioned in William Prince's book "A Treatise on the Vine", published in 1830. It is presumed to be a hybrid of the Bland grape (a now extinct Vitis aestivalis hybrid of uncertain origin) and Miller's Burgundy (Pinot Meunier, a Vitis vinifera). Whatever it is, it happened by chance, and it was a lucky break for future American vintners. A few years after Norton's discovery, a group of German immigrants founded a town along the Missouri River called Hermann, Missouri. There they planted a considerable amount of Norton grapes which were used to produce some very fine wines. At the 1873 Vienna World Exposition a Norton wine from Hermann, MO won a gold medal and was pronounced one of the finest wines in the world. But, a few decades later came Prohibition and, for a while, the world forgot about Norton, Missouri and a great American wine. Sometime in the mid 1960's, a few adventurous people purchased, and began the long process of rebuilding some of the fine old wineries of Missouri and once again producing that almost forgotten wine, Norton. A decade later a second wave of adventurers began opening new wineries in the region. On June 20, 1980 the first federally approved AVA (American Viticultural Area) was given to Augusta, MO. That was eight months before Napa Valley, CA received it's AVA. The wine industry in Missouri had officially returned. Enough with the history lessons, so how does it taste? OK, now it's opinion time. I find Norton to be a lot like Pinot Noir. Not in taste, but in the fact that it's hard to find a really good one cheap. Norton can have a bit of that foxy taste that you usually associate with Vitis labrusca wines. It is a hybrid of a Vitis aestivalis (a native wild grape) after all. What I've found is that the vintners who put in the extra effort to take these grapes to the highest level they can, produce some truly wonderful Norton wines. But, they do charge extra. You can expect to pay $20-50.00 for a good bottle of Norton. This may not sound like much compared with a great Cabernet Sauv. or Pinot Noir, but if you consider the spectacular Zinfandel and Shiraz(Syrah) wines available for under $20.00...well... Let's take barrels for instance. In California today they primarily use French oak barrels for their better wines, and American oak for only part of the process. In Missouri, most of the wineries use only American oak to age their Norton. I feel this makes the wine too oakey and so tannic, that you really can't drink it in less than ten years. It also doesn't help to disguise the foxy nose of the wine the way that a good French oak barrel could. A handful of Missouri wineries, like Stone Hill, have experimented with French as well as Hungarian oak barrels for Norton wine in recent years and have produced some amazingly good and complex wines. As I write this, I am drinking a 1997 Cynthiana (Norton) wine from Heinrichshaus Vineyards. He used primarily Hungarian and older American oak barrels to make this wine. It is still vibrant and has not yet peaked, but the Norton taste is not dominated by the foxiness of the grape, nor the harsh tannins of new American oak. Here's a short list of wineries whose Norton wines I would highly recommend: Stone Hill Winery http://www.stonehillwinery.com/ St.James Winery http://www.stjameswinery.com/ Heinrichshaus http://www.heinrichshaus.com/ Adam Puchta http://www.adampuchtawine.com/ Crown Valley http://www.crownvalleywinery.com/ Sugar Creek http://www.sugarcreekwines.com/ Blumenhof Winery http://www.blumenhof.com/ There are a lot of other wineries I could list, but all of the ones I have named produce consistently good Norton wines as well as other varietals. This should be enough information to get you off to a good start. Cheers!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Norton - a brief history of... by D9sus4

  
  

• July 2009

  California’s Sierra foothills appellation spans across some of the least heralded great wine producing regions of the state. Unlike Napa and Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon did not serve as a historic touchstone here, though the history of wine production is almost as long. In contrast... Read moreCalifornia’s Sierra foothills appellation spans across some of the least heralded great wine producing regions of the state. Unlike Napa and Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon did not serve as a historic touchstone here, though the history of wine production is almost as long. In contrast to the hype and glitter of “newer” regions propelled to fame by faddish whims, the Sierra Foothills continue to stake their claim to fame on old vine Zinfandel, as they did during the gold rush, as well as newer plantings of grapes from across Europe that adapt well to the favorable climate of the region. photo courtesy of: El Dorado Winery Association The fact that these counties, eight in total, three in particular, from north to south El Dorado, Amador and Calaveras counties, are leading the way in planting exciting, new to the state, varieties, captures the pioneer spirit that continues to infuse not only the people of these beautiful hills but also the wine they produce. For example, as opposed to competing with the so much of the state, not to mention the world, by planting Cabernet Sauvignon (not that Cabernet doesn’t have it’s spots in this ranging AVA) one finds Rhone style blends based on Grenache and Syrah, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and even Tempranillo!  This “prospecting for riches” carries over a long tradition, going back to Sutter’s mill and the original 49er’s, that’s 1849, who braved the variable climate of this rugged region in search of gold. Today’s gold comes more frequently in a bottle, and some is even of the golden persuasion. All the wines of the region share a certain character that expresses the unique terroir of this interesting AVA that admittedly crosses many county borders as it travels from meso-climate to meso-climate.  One reason for such an extensive AVA is that the rolling foothills here are the key to providing welcome relief from the heat of California’s central valley. This slice of the foothills, where vines thrive in the moderate climate between 1400 and 3000 feet of elevation, is double blessed. Not only do the warm days and cool night preserve the acidity in the grapes but these conditions also extend the growing season by slowing down the ripening during the final days of the growing season. This is especially beneficial with Zinfandel since the grape clusters on many Zinfandel vines tend to have berries of varying ripeness as harvest approaches. These hillsides are also blessed with a variety of soil types that give the wines produced here a distinctive character.  Around the 2000-foot level many patches of decomposed granite are to be found. These poor soils offer great drainage forcing the vines to struggle a bit for their survival, yielding fruit that, when mature, gives rich, rugged flavors and balanced structure to the wines they produce. At higher elevations several regions have soils of volcanic origin that can add a spicy tone to the wines and a crispness to the tannins that makes them distinct and unique additions to the pantheon of California wine. Situated as they are between the heavily populated coastal areas of northern California and the rich beauty of the Sierra Nevada range, the foothill wineries are ideally located to be part of a true California adventure. Escaping from the herd mentality that drive tourists to Napa, Sonoma and San Francisco provides that savvy wine tripper not only a chance to taste great wines at a pace more akin to that of 1950 but serves as a gateway to some of the most impressive natural beauty one is able to find in the vast land of ours. So next time you’re thinking of a California vacation consider adding the Sierra Foothills and visits to Yosemite to your plans.  I know I will. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Amador Foothill Winery -  Leading the way with innovative wines! With plantings that range from Aglianico to Zinfandel, it should come as no surprise that Amador Foothill Winery is leading the way with innovative wines from the Sierra Foothills. From Rose to Rhone Blend, and never forgetting the Zinfandel, this is a winery that delivers. Amador Foothill 2008 Rosato of Sangiovese Amador  13.5%  Soil, oil, dusty earth, pollen, wild raspberry, lovely subtle spice ad herb tones,  a tuch of leather, a bit of Swedish fish, wild cherry+,  A touch sweet up front then the wash of acid cuts through the weight leaving very pure wild berry fruit tones, great interplay of acid/fruit on the palte, really zippy style with duge refreshing acids that lead to a brick finish full or wild raspberry tones with hints of earth and spice.  A lighter style in the mouth and a great rose that may lack a touch of complexity but more than makes up for it with it’s extremely pretty pure fruit and texture that makes you want to drink more. A great rose 92pts ~ ~~ ~ Amador Foothill  Winery 2006 Katies Cote Shenandoah Valley  14.4% Lots of cigar box and sweet vanilla laced tones on the nose dominate the blackberry and black plum note though intriguing notes of violet, black pepper and thyme slowly emerge from the glass.  Slinky entry is immediately delicious with crisp herb inflected black fruits that have great intensity yet are not clumsy or thick. The wood adds a bit too much sweetness here yet the ample spice tones with hints of cinnamon, black pepper and juniper add a nice contrast on the back end. This finishes with a touch too much wood induced sweetness again but the tannins are lovely and crisp so this should take another year or two of age well, allowing the wood tones to soften and integrate. Very aromatic and cedary in the mouth at times, this is a rich, gutsy wine with good promise. 51% Syrah/49% Grenache 88pts ~ Bantam Cellars - A new winery making Shenandoah wine scene. With only 3 vintages under their belt bantam Cellars are the new kids on the block. Following in the path blazed before them they are offering an array of Mediterranean varieties yet continue the great tradition that Zinfandel has developed in the region. Bantam cellars 2008 Vermentino  Amador County12.5% Quite intense mineral, almond, pear and light spiced white peach fruit on the nose. This is lovely and balanced on the nose. Good acids, a touch grapey fruit, quite grapey fruity in fact but with lemon shaded juicy Asian pear notes that are rich and satisfying.  Finishes with a touch of raspy mineral, a hint of gooseberry and surprising length. A delicious wine perfect for casual sipping and light fair. 88pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ C. G. di Arie - From the creator of Cap’n Crunch, no kidding! Set to celebrate their first decade in business C.G di Arie makes the most of their estate fruit. With the major red varieties planted here at 1700 feet the focus here is on getting a consistent expression from these vines while relying on partner grower sto provide top-quality fruit for their non-estate wines. G D di Arie 2008 Sauvignon Banc Shenandoah valley 13.8% Starts out with sweetish notes of powdered sugar a sage that are joined by tropical fruit notes.  Soft and broad in the mouth with a velvety texture and juicy orchard fruit tones. A simple wine in an easy to drink style 85pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ G D Di Arie 2008 Rose Di Arie  Sierra Foothills 13.7% Earthy sweet raspberries and fleshy black grape tones right off the bat are joined by a touch of herbs, black pepper and peach fruit.  A rich, soft style with tones of sweet red currant and plum fruit tones that are a touch spicy and hold a nice earthy center. Rich and fruity with a touch of RS yet also a nice hint of tannin to add some contrast to the texture. A touch sticky on the finish but with lingering jammy blackberry tones. If you love a fruity rose this is for you.  50% Syrah/40% Tempranillo/10% Zinfandel 86pts  ~ ~~ ~ Cooper Vineyards - Offering a complete array of wines Cooper Vineyards produces and impressive line-up of wines encompassing 17 varieties. From Pinot Grigio and Roussanne to Cabernet and Zinfandel, naturally, there is a wine for every palate. And in that inclusive spirit one can also find a pair of dessert wines, one white, and one red to tempt your taste buds. Cooper vineyards 2008 Pinot Grigio Amador 14.9% Rather intense citrus zest and ripe herb notes with lovely floral top notes some alcohol shows but surprising well-balanced nose.  Lots of sweet fruit up front, green berries and green plum combine with a rich, plush mouthfeel to produce a rather unusual wine. One that feels over-ripe yet maintains surprisingly good freshness of flavor; inner mouth perfume is very sweet with notes of green tea and jasmine. The wine lacks some freshening acidity but is bursting with apricot and almost guava tones. The alcohol is more apparent in the mouth but this still manages to pull it off. The finish is a touch short but this is quite an interesting wine, though certainly not for everyone. 88pts ~ Deaver Vineyards -  Four generations and 150 years later still going strong! If any name should be associated with the wines of the Sierra Foothills it should be Deaver. With a proud lineage extending back to the first years of wine production in the region it’s no surprise that Deaver continues to be at the forefront with great new Italian and Rhone varietals as well as the classics. Deaver Vineyards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Amador 13.3% Light kiwi and grassy notes on the nose, fresh almost earthy clumps of sod tones that are less herbal than manner SB. Bright zesty and fresh on entry with a very lively and refreshing mouthfeel. Classic medium bodied Sauvignon Blanc feel with modestly fruity flavors and a nice hint of lemon pith and sweet grapefruit that leads to a medium length finish. Actually has good persistence to the modest flavors but the appeal here is drinkability. 86pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Deaver Vineyards 2007 Sierra Foothills Chardonnay with an ATTITUDE 14.5% Smells lemony and floral like some Muscat or Viognier made it into the blend.  The fruit is citrussy and the nose quite high pitched with salty undertones and a touch of honey, toasted spices and green anise seed.  Rich yet lively in the mouth with an impression of sweetness accentuating the deep fruit yellow fruit tones. A mouthfilling wine but well balanced with interesting layers of citrus and peach fruit.. Very clean and crisp on the finish with a touch of lingering almost coffee like toasted spice 88pts ~ ~~ ~ Deaver Viognier 2007 Amador County 14% Smells sweet with a leather fruit tone that recalls dried apricot, a hint of lanolin and a touch of water chestnut add some complexity. This gains a nice pale honey note with hints of pollen and light tobacco. Very light with an attractive airy quality even though the wine is noticeably viscous with obvious RS., but it is well balanced by the integrated acidity. Lovely honied flavors of quince, candied lime and peach round out thee mouth. The finish is a bit gentle but with nice feathery complexity and a very friendly disposition. The sweetness is a bit much for a table wine but this finishes fairly read more...dryly so it can work but is better suited as a very light dessert wine particularly well structured for a cheese course. 90pts   Deaver Vineyards NV Orange Muscat Amador 12.5% Gorgeously fragrant nose full of black tea, orange blossom, light passion fruit and pink grapefruit tones. Really intense and fresh and gently frizzante with a honied tone to the warm citrus fruit tones and  an easy appeal. Some tea notes add a bit of depth but this is a rather sweet and slightly rich style of Moscato with long honied flavors yet not much detail. 85pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Ironestone Vineyards - A pioneer growing premium grapes in the Foothills. Ironstone Vineyards is one of the Sierra Foothill’s premium producers of Bordeaux blends. By intelligently adding small amounts of blending grapes and allowing the wines time to age in barrel in the deep, cool caverns under the winery, Ironstone has created nuanced wines in a satisfyingly smooth style. Ironstone 2006 Cabernet Franc Reserve Sierra Foothills 14.5% Dark, toasty, grilled fruit notes with spicy herbs lurking, and something very meaty about this wine, Nicely gamy smells like grilling lamb over eucalyptus. Lush in the mouth with lots of rich fruit, plums, cassis, black cherry with hints of dried tomato, herb, mint, and oak,. Very nicely balanced both texturally and favor wise with there is a touch of barbq sauciness on the backend but the bright cherry tones and light vanilla note power through and dominate the long finish. A big velvety richly fruited yet fresh wine with a touch of earth at its core, and just a hint of mint chocolate shavings helping read more...to frame the fruit. Certainly is ripe Cab France 89pts ~ Ironstone 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Sierra Foothills 14.5% Reticent and minty with an interesting mineral edge to the nose, smells granitic.  A touch leaner and more transparent than the CF with a redder fruit profile. Bright acids and nicely measured tannin yield a firmly medium plus bodied wine with a touch of cola/root beer spice helping to frame the astringent red fruits. The wood is really well integrated here and while this is neither super complex or super rich (a good thing) it is very well behaved in the mouth. Not particularly varietal either but rich, polished and fruity. A well-made and enjoyably drinkable wine that finishes a touch short with a Mexican cocoa note.87pts. ~ ~~ ~ Morse Wines -  A leader in Rhone varieties from the Sierra Foothills Morse Wines is a new label being utilized by the Il Gioiello Winery to differential their Rhone Varietals from their Italian bottlings. Determined to make a name for both schools in the Foothills, Morse offer carefully crafted small lots of wines that offer a new interpretation of French Classics. Morse 2007 Ensemble Blanc 55% Viognier/45% Roussanne Sierra Foothills 15.1% A bit slow to open with soft floral tones married to deep, almost honied, quite smoky baked banana peel, and preserved lemon tones, Gains a big acacia tone with air. Rich with good acidity and a nice mineral edge to the deep orchard fruit tones. Real snap to the flavors and fine balance with rather restrained kwi and goosebbery notes that gain the upper hand on the back end with an interesting candied floral top note and lingering sweet/mineral tension on the moderate finish. Excellent complexity and balance in this very solid wine. 90pts  ~ ~~ ~ Shenandoah Vineyards- A pioneering winery in California’s Shenandoah Valley With a broad array of small lot reserve wines, Shenandoah Vineyards offers a complimentary line-up to the Sobon family’s eponymous winery. Actually the first of the 2 brands Shenandoah Vineyards continues as a leading producer of wines that represent a classic style that can only be associated with California’s Shenandoah Valley. Shenandoah Vineyards 2007 Special Reserve Zinfandel Amador 14.4% Subtle and soft blackberries, peach and black plum skins contrast with a hint of baking spice and coconutty oak tones on the nose.   Very sweetly fruited entry, nice balance with good acidity and very soft tannins give the moderately spicy but very fruity style with a soft, friendly feel.  Full of sweet, vanilla toned black plum and blackberry fruit, on the short finish. Classic Amador Zin though. 86 pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Sobon - a family affair dedicated to sustainable farming, and great wine! The Sierra Foothill’s forte has always been their deep, flavorful old vine Zinfandel. Many of these hillside vineyards were originally planted to supply the 49ers and now are gloriously mature. Sobon has consistently captured the wonderful fruit of these vines, allowing them to express themselves in classic style. Sobon Estate 2008 Roussanne Amador 14.1% Great nose, lots of boiled chestnuts and toasted chestnut shells, intense with a noticeable yet integrated oak backdrop. Lilacs, white pepper and very light mangosteen fruit.  Decidedly soft in the mouth with a rich, viscous feel and initial honied fruit note that yields to an almost strawberry tinged mid-palate with rich orange tones and a touch of butter cream.  The finish returns to a more citrussy vein with a nicely floral inner mouth perfume of almost tropical orange blossoms. Big rich balanced and different this is a winner 90pts ~ ~~ ~ Sobon Estate ReZerve 2008 Rose Amador 13.6% Mineral, strawberry, herb and roast pork with a hint of rosemary and a hint of flowers on the nose give this a succulent and savory appeal.  Dry and crisp with good focus in the mouth. This is a touch tight even with a subtle richness and lovely, slightly tannic red berry and sweet pomegranate tones with a touch of papaya and papaya seed spice. Wonderful fruit and subtle spice tones linger on the moderately long finish. Great balance and freshness here make this really lovely. Grenache/Syrah/Carignan 90pts ~ ~~ Sobon Estate 2007 Old Vines Zinfandel Amador 14.9% A touch of fudge and moist earth with lovely brambly notes of sapwood, herb and wild black raspberry fruit edged with a touch of pipe tobacco. Pure black raspberry fruit on entry, very good acids, lots of sweet fruit here, nice top notes of briar and bramble. Nice purity of well-expressed yet uncomplicated fruit. A wine for drinking, not for thinking about. Finishes with a slightly jammier tone and more wood spice but still nicely balanced and fresh 87pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery - A lovely white surprise from a great Zin producer. Story Winery has made a name for themselves producing small lots of old-vine Zinfandel from great vineyard sites in Amador county.  In true pioneer spirit they have also explored several white wines enjoying the fruit from these unusual head-pruned and dry farmed vineyards. Story Winery 2007 Chenin Blanc Shenandoah  15% A touch funky right out of the bottle with notes of caramel, butterscotch and quince paste over a funky chalky earth, seashell and herb base. Deceptively light bodied with gentle flavors of apple, apple butter and pressed flowers slowly building in the glass. Holds its 15% amazing well. The subtle flavors power through on the medium length finish adding notes or biter orange marmalade and a light cashew brittle tone. Before gaining a nice mouth grabbing chalky tone again. A very subtle wine that will rise to the occasion pairing well with a wide variety of foods. 87pts ~ ~~ Story Winery 2006 Picnic Hill Old Vines Zinfandel Shenandoah  Valley 16% Light vanilla tones are backed by lots of astringent red fruits, red currant and pomegranate, with a hint of herb and roast meatiness.  Enters with sweet red fruits, slightly exotic berries fruits, fruit di bosco, nice freshness and good balance that help to hide it’s 16% Very candied but in a fresh way, sugared raspberries with a peppery cinnamon edge for balance, Nice crisp tannins and a lovely stemmy tone add length to the finish.  88pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery 2006 Creekside Vineyard Old Vines Zinfandel 16% Really briary aromas in the glass are joined by smoky earth tones and reduced wild raspberry notes with hints of lightly spiced cranberry and orange rind.  Rich and velvety, this has power and depth with a slightly sweet character that accentuates the rich wild cherry and astringent, spicy red fruit tones. A mouthfilling wine that is a touch minty and medicinal on the finish with a nice tannic bite that helps balance the RS. This is a monster wine; serve it with cheese or instead of dessert. Really spicy notes gain prominence on the midpalate.  Finishes with a really intense red hots tone. A divisive wine for sure but it’s pretty cool. 90pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery 2006 Alitia Vineyard Zinfandel Shenandoah Valley 16% Smells like leather and ass and not in a bad way. Slow to open, with slightly buttery licorice tinged tight black fruit. Tight concentrated and velvety with a deep savory core folded up with black currant and dry, not terrible sweet mulberry fruit. This is reticent yet with excellent balance that gives it an elegance that their other wines lack. Shares a touch of that peppery cinnamon with lovely dried herb notes and lots of potential but this needs another year to express itself. 88pts ~ ~~ Vino Noceto - This Tuscan styled estate is a relative newcomer to the region. Recognizing that the climate of Amador County’s Shenandoah Valley was Mediterranean in nature, family owned Vino Noceto took a brave and unique path, choosing to focus on premium Sangiovese based wine as opposed to sticking to the Zinfandel roots of the region. Noceto 2008 Pinot Grigio Clarksburg/Amador 13% Light rainwater, clay and floral tones on the nose give this an airy note before they are joined by fragrant pear fruit with a hint of dried pineapple.  Round and soft but not flabby, in fact nicely balanced on a rich if medium bodied frame that supports soft, juicy fruit flavors with grace notes of mint and almond and herb that lead to a slightly sweet finish that hints at baked apple with a nice almond tone. 86 ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Noceto 2006 Sangiovese Shenandoah Valley 14% Very intense sweet cherry, vanilla and soft toast notes greet the nose.  There is a slight medicinal note that combines with the black cherry fruit to give this a slight cough lozenge note. A nice hint of herb adds complexity.  Big, rich sweet cherry fruit with just a hint of oak is well supported by tannins are a touch astringent, as they should be, and good acidity giving this a refreshing feel. Very medium bodied and with lightness that keeps this centered in the mouth despite the intensity of the rather simple yet pure cherry fruit. On the backend it turns a bit spice with a nice flourish of strawberry and herb adding to the long finish.  Very solid wine and great for the bar-b-q this summer. 90pts   Noceto 2008 Frivolo Moscato Bianco California 7.1% Delicious smelling with note of lemon, lime leaf, powder sugar and hints of angelica root and white tea, with a gently biscuit note. Just ever so softly frizzante with good acidity balancing the rather light, fresh citrus driven flavors. Plenty sweet but with a touch of lightness on the palate, really attractive flavors of subtle ginger inflected candied citrus fruits, with good length, lovely and freaking delicious 88pts  ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Gregory Dal Piaz Community Manager Snooth    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Strike it rich in the Sierra... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• July 2009

  Oh you poor people - if you have to buy what the PA liquor folks select, you really are at a serious disadvantage! OK so if you want to shop in NJ, here are a few wines you might try - at the lower end, there is a series of wines called Craftsman. They're made by Hilltop Neszmely... Read moreOh you poor people - if you have to buy what the PA liquor folks select, you really are at a serious disadvantage! OK so if you want to shop in NJ, here are a few wines you might try - at the lower end, there is a series of wines called Craftsman. They're made by Hilltop Neszmely and they're pretty much all under $10. The importer is a pretty good friend and I also know the owners - their intention is to introduce people to some Hungarian grapes and not to cause too much financial pain while doing so. All of their wines are fair values for the money and some are really good values. They make a wine they call the "Falconer's Cuvee" which is a blend of cab franc and some others and it's usually quite good. You can find them in a number of places. Moving up, you get into some of the better reds. I'll recommend a few that you can find at Wine Library, since they're available on line. Takler is a guy who makes wine Szekszard, which is one of several historically noted wine regions in Hungary. His wines tend to be a little pricey for what you get, although some people disagree. Be that as it may, you might want to try the Noir Gold Reserve. It's from a grape called kekfrankos, or what the Austrians call blaufrankisch or blue franc. In Washington they call it lemberger but the only ones I've had were not something I'd want to drink and definitely wouldn't recommend. Again, some people like those but perhaps they never had any good ones. However, I think kekfrankos should be the signature grape of Hungary, i.e. something to differentiate it, because they do such an outstanding job with it. As I mentioned, most aren't imported, which is too bad. But this one is a decent effort. If you want to compare to some Blaufrankisch from Austria, you might want to try Weninger. They have vineyards on both sides of the border and make single vineyard wines from both. It's interesting to compare them, however to my knowledge the Hungarian version isn't imported, only the Austrian one. As a general observation, the grape typically has great acidity, often with a spicy and peppery quality, not unlike a really cool-climate syrah might have. The area around Eger in particular seems to bring out those qualities, which is why I like those wines. You might also try the Kadarka by Takler. Again, it's not that Takler is one of my favorite producers, but he is available because he's one of the first wines imported by Monarchia before they were merged with Matt Bros. Kadarka was brought to Hungary by the Serbs around the time of the Turk invasions, and it can be a really interesting and good wine, often with floral notes. It may be the most "indigenous" of Hungarian reds - don't forget that the political borders have been very fluid over the centuries. Bikaver, or "Bull's Blood", is usually a blend of these, along with some other grapes. Then they have some wines from Villany, which some people think is Hungary's best red grape area. There's Vylyan Zweigelt, which is another grape that is generally light in body, high in acid, showing a red-fruit profile without a big base of tannins. Part of that has to do with the continental climate of Hungary - it's nowhere as hot as Napa or Barossa or the Rhone, so they end up with grapes that are ripe, but rarely overripe. If people knew about those wines, they'd be calling them "food wines". They do an excellent job with cabernet franc too, as they're usually not as green as those from the Loire but they're still recognizably cab franc, with the herbal edge and body weight that you want in cab franc. Unfortunately, as I said, there's a limited selection available in the US. Gary V at Wine Library doesn't know all that much about Hungary, but he's super-enthusiastic and he's at least been there and he's eager to learn. As a result, he usually has a few in the store. He also has a dry furmint by Demeter Zoltan. The whites from Hungary are world-class at this point. The reds aren't there yet, although they're improving yearly. You should try that white. It's lean to the point of being austere - very acidic, reminiscent of a muscadet from the Loire, but also really well-made and an excellent example of an indigenous grape done well. FWIW - Egervin, which produced your wine, was created in the 1940s after WWII. It was the state-owned cooperative that everyone was forced to belong to and which bears a lot of responsibility for destroying Hungarian viticulture. Today it's "privatized" but it's still the first or second largest producer of wine in Hungary. If you can imagine the PA Liquor Control taking over Gallo and appointing all their hack friends to run it for about 50 years, you'd probably still be better off! Anyhow, best of luck with your endeavor!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic New East Coast Wine Geeks... by GregT

  
  

• June 2009

  Perhaps some grape banter to get things started: Grenache asked Cabernet, “why do all the other vines always pick on me so?” Cabernet responded abruptly, “quite simply, you aren’t a noble grape.” Grenache wondered what noble meant. Cabernet wasn’t exactly sure, yet... Read morePerhaps some grape banter to get things started: Grenache asked Cabernet, “why do all the other vines always pick on me so?” Cabernet responded abruptly, “quite simply, you aren’t a noble grape.” Grenache wondered what noble meant. Cabernet wasn’t exactly sure, yet always assumed it was noble because it came from Bordeaux, the best region in the world (and that sense of false bravado always made Cabernet forget about the fact that it was spawn from a one night stand between the floozy Sauvignon Blanc and its not so admirable father, Cabernet Franc). Grenache didn’t like being in oak very much, the place where all the noble kids tend to play, but felt defiant today and challenged “if you are so damn noble, then what do you need oak for?” Cabernet got a bit defensive. “Just because you can’t handle it doesn’t mean you have to knock it,” Cabernet said. Grenache replied, “Well all you taste of is oak these days. Since when were mocha, coffee, toast, graphite, vanilla and smoke your varietal character? Do you even know what you taste like without that oaky façade?” Now Cabernet was getting angry. “Listen you overly alcoholic runt, I last longer, have more muscle, better structure and cost a hell of a lot more than you do, so you best step off before I splinter you w/ my mighty oak tannins!” Grenache scoffed at Cabernet’s antagonism, growing in confidence as the verbal sparing continued. “Well I happen to be the world’s most influential wine critic’s favorite drink and I don’t need any make-up to look good. Last I checked wine drinkers no longer have the patience for you to come around while I am delicious right out of the gates.” Cabernet, once austere and rigid, was aghast that it was challenged by something so low on the vinifera food chain….but had to admit that there was something kinky about the way Grenache argued. “Well you certainly are a cocky little one. Although I’m somewhat repulsed by your inadequacies, you are growing on me…like a fungus. Care to step out for a drink?” “Gladly,” said Grenache. “How ‘bout a Chateauneuf?” ----I obviously don't care (considering that I am a gold card member in the Grenache-aholic club) & if anything, I tend to find nobility over-rated and boring....just wondering what your thoughts are out there.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What makes a grape noble?... by Brad Coelho

  
  

• December 2008

  Break Out the Bubbly Well the results of our Snooth poll are in and you've told us what you want to drink while ringing in the new year! Now we have some recommendations for you! Your replies let us know just what was in this year and I have taken a look at some of my favorite... Read moreBreak Out the Bubbly Well the results of our Snooth poll are in and you've told us what you want to drink while ringing in the new year! Now we have some recommendations for you! Your replies let us know just what was in this year and I have taken a look at some of my favorite producers to create this list that ranges from the least popular category, Tete de Cuvee Champagne, with one recommendation to Classic French Champagne, with 5 recommendations. These are all great wines so you won't go wrong no matter which one you choose! One thing worth remembering, however, is that sparkling wines come in a range of styles and what's written on the bottle doesn't always tell you what's in there. Here's a handy guide to help you navigate the nomenclature and find a wine with a sweetness level you'll enjoy! Brut Nature, Brut Zero or Zero Dosage = Bone Dry Extra Brut or Ultra Brut = Very dry but with a softer edge than Brut Nature Brut = Actually a range that spans quite dry to a softer, yet still dry style Extra-Sec or Extra Dry = Just a touch sweet, emphasizing the fruitiness of the wine. Sec or Dry = Becoming noticeably sweet but still considered dry Demi-Sec = Obviously sweet though some just barely so Doux = Sweet wines, but quite rare to find. 5th Most Popular:Only the best will do! Tete de Cuvee Champagne for me! While the Krug NV Brut Grand Cuvee is not their most expensive Tete de Cuvee it does represent the pinnacle of this style of Champagne: full, rich, oak aged to creamy perfection. It's a splurge worth making for that once a year treat! Krug NV Brut Grand Cuvee $119.99 The composition of the cuvee is a stunning mosaic of flavors where the three champagne grapes, 20-25 growths and 6-10 different years, combine to give Krug Grande Cuvee its complexity, elegance and consistency year after year, blend after blend. To maintain this consistency Krug reserves a large selection of unblended still wines from previous vintages blending them with the youngest crop to create a fully balanced taste. These reserve wines may represent between a third and a half of the cuvee. The bouquet is wonderfully creamy, leading to magical combination of weight and balance on the palate. The long, lingering finish is both nutty and toasty, ending with a final flourish of freshness, leaving one longing for more. --wine.com 4th Most Popular:Spanish Cava Speaking of Tete de Cuvee, one very affordable option worth exploring is Siguras Vuiudas Reserva Heredad. You may have seen the massive bottle with the ornamental metalwork base! It's a real great value in Cava and a wine with some of the fine aged character that distinguishes the top Tete de Cuvee bottlings. Their base bottling NV Brut Reserva is a great choice for parties, fresh, balanced and easy to drink! Siguras Vuiudas Reserva Heredad $16.99 Rating: 88/100 - As reviewed by Wine & Spirits Magazine on 08/09 Sweet floral scents meet chalky notes in the middle of this wine. The structure is soft, with gentle bubbles. Its tart, lime-pulp flavors will match cracked crab. Siguras Vuiudas NV Brut Reserva $8.99 Rating: 92/100 - As reviewed by Wine & Spirits Magazine Grape Tray: Unexpectedly complex, this first hints at smoke, cocoa and dry spices, and that layering rolls into the taste as well. Forward, ripe apple fruitiness rises above a dry hint of apple skin, wrapping up in a citrus and mineral grip. Stylistically it's graceful and austere, perfect for simple grilled shellfish of any kind. 3rd Most Popular:Italian Prosecco or Spumante Next on our list comes the great sparkling wines of Italy and none is as welcome at any celebration as the Veneto's fine Prosecco. Mionetto makes a selection of Prosecco ranging from the rich and polished Sergio Spumante Extra Dry to the delightfully fruity and fresh classic that is NV Prosecco Brut. Add to these the gently sparkling Frizzante, Il Prosecco that caresses the palate and you'll find something that is as well suited for New Years Eve celebrations as it is for New Years day's very late, very quiet brunch! Mionetto Sergio Spumante Extra Dry $8.90 Just a bit sweet but balanced with rich floral tones and notes of dried peach and pear on the palate. Finishes with a touch of orange oil, good persistence and fine mousse. Mionetto NV Prosecco Brut $9.99 100% Prosecco from the Veneto. This wine has an intense fruity bouquet with a hint of golden apple. Brut, fresh and light in body, Mionetto Prosecco Brut is well-balanced and easy to drink. This wine is perfect alone as an aperitif or as a delightful compliment to appetizers such as prosciutto or mild cheese. --NapaCabs.com Mionetto Frizzante, Il Prosecco $13.99 "Grapes 100% Prosecco I.G.T. from Marca Trevigiana - Wine A straw-colored wine with brilliant reflections. The aroma is fruity, reminiscent of pear and citrus with a slightly floral bouquet. The wine is fresh and crisp with apparent apple and peach flavors. This lightly sparkling (Frizzante) wine typifies the traditional wine-maker's Prosecco. - Food Perfect as an aperitif, to complement light cuisine such as grilled fish and vegetables, pizza or to enjoy in everyday social situations." --Importer's Notes 2nd Most Popular:Domestic sparkling wine When talk turns to domestic sparkling wine there is one producer who dominates the discussion. The original, and still the best, American Methode Champenoise - Schramsberg. From their very own Tete de Cuvee, the 2000 Schramsberg Reserve with its captivating melange of spice tones and dried orchard fruits to the classic 2005 Blanc de Noirs and 2005 Blanc be Blanc that capture the house's trademark dry, crisp and complex style. If you're looking for a sweeter style of bubbly don't overlook Schramberg's Cremant that offers a great, perfumed, off-dry, drinking experience, great for capping off a New Year's feast! 2000 Schramsberg Reserve $68.79 2005 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs $27.99 Fresh fruit is spotlighted in this wine. Strawberry, raspberry and cherry aromas dominate the nose, accented by a delicious creaminess that carries through to the palate. The wine is deepened by the bottle-aged characteristics of caramelized apples and baked dough. A juicy sweet and sour berry palate carries this wine to a satisfying, seamless and memorable finish. --The Wine Buyer 2005 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs $23.80 The length of the 2005 growing season allowed for the development of ripe fruit character. Fresh crisp apple, lemon chiffon and juicy pineapple all come to mind. Suggestions of warm brioche and hazelnut lead way to a pleasing palate bursting with ripe apple, keylime and plump apricot. The 2005 Blanc de Blancs finishes with refreshing acidity and a quenching palate. While this wine can be enjoyed by itself as an aperitif, it is also perfect with fresh oysters and other shellfish, crab cakes, ceviche and grilled sea bass. It is also delicious with lemon chicken and Thai curries. Serve with aged Gouda or other hard cheeses and asa counterpoint to soft triple creams. Schramsberg Cremant $26.99 Schramsberg Cremant is a delicate off-dry, dessert-style wine: an American original. Cremant is French for "creamy" and traditionally refers to a sparkling wine with less pressure and softer effervescence. Our Cremant has roughly half the pressure of our other sparkling wines, it presents a creamier texture, and has more exotic flavors. --Shop Wine Direct Your Most Popular Selection:French Champagne Finally we come to the original: French Champagne. My favorite house must be Billecart-Salmon with their brilliant, precise and absolutely seductive range of wines. The flagship 1998 Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart has Grand Cru breeding through and through with its racy elegance and exceptional length. The NV Brut Rose has that bit of added richness one finds in Rose; yet remains classically lacy Billecart. Both the Brut Reserve and the Brut Blanc de Blanc are about as good as Non-vintage champagne can get and offer all the breeding one expects from Billecart. And for those who like a whisper of sweetness in their bubbly and have a hard time finding a wine that has the complexity of fine Champagne that is just off-dry, the NV Demi-Sec is to die for! 1998 Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart Champagne Brut Millesime $54.99 Chardonnay, Pinot Noir: The cuvee was created in 1964 as a tribute to the Champagne house's founder. The wine is a blend of only the best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fruit from grand cru sites in the Cote des Blancs and the Montage de Reims. A portion of the wine vinified in traditional oak casks creating both a rich and elegant Champagne. --Winemaker's Notes Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rose $84.99 Appearance: Persistent mousse, with fine bubbles rising slowly. Pale salmon pink in color, with a shade of gold. Aroma: A nose of red fruits and fresh pear. Taste: Delicate fruit on the palate, elegant, and showing great finesse. --wine.com Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve $47.99 Classic French sparkler - dry and balanced. --Winemaker's Notes Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs 82.99 A similar selection of grand cru grapes as the 1998 Blanc de Blancs, however the NV is a blend of two separate vintages. --Winemaker's Notes NV Billecart-Salmon Demi-Sec 46.37 Everything you love from this house and more. This is a nicely off dry Champagne with all the floral, honey character you can crave. An excellent aperitif sparkler. --Astor Wine & Spirits Whatever your style, wherever you're from I hope you enjoy your wines. This New Year's Eve I tip my glass to you for making all this possible! Salute! Prost! Skal! Salud! Chin Chin! Kippis! Zum Wohl! Slainte! Aish Karo! Na zdrowie! Saude! Cheers! L'Chayim! Gan Bei! Prosit Neujahr! Geia mas!    (hide)

  From the article Break Out the Bubbly

  
  

• November 2008

  Wine flights for this blind tasting. Flight 1- Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2006 Pedroncelli Mother Clone 2005 Quivira 2006 Holdredge Flight 2 – Dry Creek Valley Single Vineyards 2006 Dashe Cellars Florence Vineyard 2006 Dry Creek Vineyard Somers Ranch 2005 Carol Shelton Rocky... Read moreWine flights for this blind tasting. Flight 1- Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2006 Pedroncelli Mother Clone 2005 Quivira 2006 Holdredge Flight 2 - Dry Creek Valley Single Vineyards 2006 Dashe Cellars Florence Vineyard 2006 Dry Creek Vineyard Somers Ranch 2005 Carol Shelton Rocky Reserve Florence Vineyard Flight 3 - 100 years and what do you get? 2006 Terra d'Oro Deaver Vineyard 100 year old - Amador County 2005 Kunde Century Vines Shaw Vineyard Reserve - Sonoma valley 2006 Sausal Century Vines- Alexander Valley Flight 4 - The big, the bold and the beautiful 2005 Howell Mountain Vineyards Beatty Vineyard Napa Valley 2005 Cakebread Red Hills Lake County 2005 Sky Vineyards Mt. Veeder Napa Valley Snooth's Panel Tasting Program met this past Sunday night, just in time for Thanksgiving, to do a blind tasting of that all-American wonder-grape, Zinfandel. We had a solid panel, which I lead and included: Karl - Professional chef and blogger Stephanie - Sales manager for Astor Wines & Spirits Greg - A representative for Frontier Wine Imports Natali - A wine enthusiast Clayton - A wine enthusiast Elizabeth - A wine salesperson with Astor Wines & Spirits Julie - A wine writer and blogger While technically not American, it is after all the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski,  Zinfandel has certainly risen to fame on the merits of the wines produced in Northern California. A true chameleon of a grape, Zinfandel has been used to produce everything from the ubiquitous White Zinfandel, to  everything from nouveau styles through some of the biggest, meanest, monster fruit bombs ever to emerge from the west coast. Most Zinfandel however could historically have been characterized as falling within two categories: the restrained elegant Bordelaise style or the rich, jammy fruit driven style that is probably the most typical and representative expression of Zinfandel. A bit of a quirky grape, Zinfandel require a long, slow growing season due to it’s unusual ripening, prone to having both raisins and green berries on the same bunch. While producing what undoubtedly seem like warm climate wines, Zinfandel actually prefers a bit of a cooler zone in order to limit this problem and promote more uniform ripening. In general regions where Zinfandel has enjoyed success have been viewed as areas less conducive to the production of more prestigious wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The Dry Creek Valley region of Sonoma county has long been one of the hot beds of Zinfandel production and is a source of some of the greatest old-vine vineyards in the state. The more northern areas such as Lake County and Mendocino County in addition to Amador County and some of the other areas of “gold rush” country have also proven to be ideal regions for the production of Zin. Napa valley in general is too viewed as too warm though some exceptional wines have come from the valley, in particular the cooler, mountain regions such as Howell Mountain and Atlas Peak. At its best Zinfandel is a richly fruited wine full of black berries and spice with subtle soil tones and finely integrated structure. These are not shy wines with alcohol rarely below 14%, and more frequently close to, if not above, 15%. They are wines that can be flamboyant, though many producers have pushed the limits of what this grape can do and produced wines that were terribly alcoholic, jammy and packed with so much oak that while impressive to taste, were virtually undrinkable. In an effort to discover wines suitable for the Thanksgiving Day feast I selected a dozen wines that I felt would range within the classic style of Zinfandel though give expression to the full scope that this range is capable of. All of the wines were opened around 2pm and tasted by me at that time. The Panel Tasting went from 6-8pm and thus the wines saw between 4 and 6 hours of air during that time. The wines performed well and while there were some absolute stars all the wines had their virtues.  Each flight had a theme and tasters were asked to contribute their opinions for each wine and then choose their favorites.  The following begins with the least favorite and ends with the wine crowned ‘Best of the Night”. 12th place - 2005 Sky Vineyards Mt. Veeder Napa Valley 13.5%            $30 This was a controversial wine and the lean style and slight volatility provoked pretty visceral reactions from Karl’s “vinegar and pine-sol” to Greg’s “acetic and latex” and Clayton’s characterization of the wine as smelling like a “cheap hotel room”. No one was a particular fan of this wine though I would have to say that it was much better when I did my initial tastings. My ninth place wine. 11th place - 2006 Sausal Vineyard Century Vines - Alexander Valley 14.7%    $30 This wine didn’t illicit much emotion with Clayton feeling it was “good for the mass market” and Julie considered it “ nice, easy and accessible” On the flip side Elizabeth noted that it’s “not excessively aromatic” nnd Julie commented on it “easy, soft finish”. That pretty much summed this wine up for me. The mouthfeel was very appealing but there was much there there. My twelfth place wine. 10th place - 2006 Dry Creek Vineyard - Somers Ranch Dry Creek Valley 15.0%        $24-26 There was a marked difference of opinion with this wine. Natali liked the “strong berry and pepper notes” on the nose while Karl felt it was “intense, and not in a good way”. Greg disliked this wine feeling that it was "grassy and earthy and totally out of balance with alcoholic heat and bitter tannins”. Elizabeth also felt the wine showed it’s alcohol but enjoyed the” jellied rather than jammy fruit and Christmas pudding spices”.  I think this was an intense wine that was a bit heavy and dark and that may have been off-putting to some. My sixth place wine. 9th place - 2005 Quivira Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 14.9%        $15-20 While also provoking controversy this wine at least was fairly consistently viewed. The dark character of the wine was characterized by Stephanie as “ full of Christmas spice, coffee, and chocolate and even a little farty” Karl also found the fruit “dark and pruny” and Natali took the characterization one step further by noting the “nose lacked freshness”. Clayton enjoyed the “dark, oaky flavors” as did Greg who found the wine “a little funky but very cherried". A solid middle of the road performance. My eleventh place wine. 8th place - 2006 Terra d’Oro Deaver Vineyard 100 Year Old - Amador 15.5%    $25 With this wine we move from wines that were mostly criticized to wines that garner more praise than complaints. While Greg felt this smelled “weird, like a coffee soufflé” Julie liked the “ bright puckery Jolly Rancher fruits” on the nose and Natali was also enthusiastic proclaiming this to be “quintessential Zin” though she did add it tasted “acidic almost to the point of saltiness” Both Elizabeth and Clayton noted the rather intense spiciness of the wine, Clayton even commented that he felt Like “ a big steak to pair with the spicy flavors” but went on to fault the wine for a short finish.   My seventh place wine. 7th place - 2005 Cakebread Red Hills Lake County 15.1%            $40-42 There were many points of agreement on this wine with both Greg and Julie finding a caramel element and Stephanie and Clayton both commented on the vanilla notes. The oak was noticeable to all and Julie saw it more through it’s expression as star anise and spice. Beyond the sweet oakiness of this wine everyone was unanimous in noting the spicy, fruity though somewhat anonymous character of the wine though Karl felt this would be an ideal match for “Peking duck which would tame the wines acid and tannin”.  My eight place wine. 6th place - 2006 J. Pedroncelli Mother Clone Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 14.4%   $12-15       This was a bit of a surprise being our value leader, it was an impressive showing.  People were all over the board in commenting on the nose from Stephanie’s “soft violets and plums” to Natali’s “ dark chocolate and light fruits” and Julie’s “peppery black fruit”. The theme of black spice was echoed by Greg who felt the wine had “ a strong licorice bitterness and spiciness but it’s finishing too short” a sentiment shared by Stephanie. None-the-less everyone found this to be perfectly decent if not distinguished. My tenth place wine. BEST BUY 5th place - 2006 Holdredge Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 15.3%             $20 With this wine we really moved up a notch to wines that had more universal appeal though both Karl and Stephanie enjoyed the nose more than the palate with Stephanie commenting on the wines “great notes of earth, tar and smoke” which Greg characterized as “ the most complex of the flight, spicy, earthy, with pencil shavings and a bit of herbalness”. Clayton preferred the palate to the nose commenting on the “bitter cherry fruit”.  My fourth place wine. 4th place - 2005 Carol Shelton Rocky Reserve - Florence Vineyard - Rockpile Dry Creek Valley 14.8%         $30-35 This wine elicited some unusual descriptor though both Stephanie and Greg found black tea aromatics with everybody commenting on the “sharp”,” Acidic” or “citrussy” component of the nose. Natali enjoyed it and felt “ it was great but blunt, over quickly” While Julie liked it’s “ funky, blackberry and pepper” qualities. Everyone also commented on the tannins with Stephanie summing it up as a “super-tannic Zin” My second place wine. 3rd place - 2005 Kunde Century Vines Shaw Vineyard Rsrv - Sonoma Valley 14.9%   $30                                                                                                                                                                                 Many felt this wine showed some obvious alcohol but everyone commented on the nose with Julie commenting on it’s “interesting” nose and Elizabeth finding "jammy and menthol tones” while Stephanie noticed the “dried chile and dried blackberry fruit” qualities. Clayton also found the “aromas are strong and the wine has real staying power”. Natali liked the “creamy, low alcohol feel and vanilla and cinnamon flavors” while Greg felt the toasted marshmallow and sweet cherry fruit on the nose delivered more than the palate. My first place wine. 2nd place - 2006 Dashe Cellars Florence Vineyard - Dry Creek Valley 14.5% $30-35 While several tasters felt the nose here was a bit hot many had very positive things to say about it from Julie's comment that’ it smells like apple pie baked by Grandma Rose” to Natali’s comment on it’s dry, dark chocolate, almost like a mole” notes and Stephanie’s comment on the “waxy kind of blackberry fruit”.  On the palate it was liked though Karl felt I was “not a deep wine but jammy in a good way” Elizabeth found it “friendly and approachable, very jammy with obvious sweetness”.  Both Greg and Stephanie commented on its vanilla laced jammy fruit. My third place wine. 1st place - 2005 Howell Mountain Vineyards Beatty Vineyard Napa Valley 15.6%        $35-40 This was our winner by a fairly wide margin.  Everyone had something positive to say about the nose from Karl’s “ Leathery and strong, this smells delicious” to Julie’s “smells like complex, dark fruit cake”. Stephanie found “bark and soil tones” while Natali noticed a “smoky, cinnamon thing going on”.  In the mouth Clayton found this to be “ accessible with nice spice and earth, well balanced” while Greg commented on the “core of deep red cherry fruit” and Julie capped off the discussion with the succinct comment “ this warms you up!”.  My fifth place wine. And that was all we had to say. We brought the remainders with us to dinner and they went very well with our fine Cuban meal. Another successful, enlightening and, dare I say it, warm evening spent with the fine people that makes Snooth Possible. As we look forward to the Holiday season and beyong keep an eye out for our coming Panel tasting featuring California Syrah, Chianti Classico Riserva, and Wines from South Africa and Australia! If you are interested in participating in the next Snooth Panel Tasting please shoot me an email or check out the Events page on the Snooth forum. Until next time! Gregory Dal Piaz is the Community Manager at  Snooth, an avid Wine Geek with a passion for things Italian, and a long suffering Mets fan.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Snooth Panel Tasting Program... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• November 2008

  Snooth Panel Tasting Program explores Zinfandel Wine flights for this blind tasting. Flight 1- Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2006 Pedroncelli Mother Clone 2005 Quivira 2006 Holdredge Flight 2 – Dry Creek Valley Single Vineyards 2006 Dashe Cellars Florence Vineyard 2006 Dry Creek... Read moreSnooth Panel Tasting Program explores Zinfandel Wine flights for this blind tasting. Flight 1- Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2006 Pedroncelli Mother Clone 2005 Quivira 2006 Holdredge Flight 2 - Dry Creek Valley Single Vineyards 2006 Dashe Cellars Florence Vineyard 2006 Dry Creek Vineyard Somers Ranch 2005 Carol Shelton Rocky Reserve Florence Vineyard Flight 3 - 100 years and what do you get? 2006 Terra d'Oro Deaver Vineyard 100 year old - Amador County 2005 Kunde Century Vines Shaw Vineyard Reserve - Sonoma valley 2006 Sausal Century Vines- Alexander Valley Flight 4 - The big, the bold and the beautiful 2005 Howell Mountain Vineyards Beatty Vineyard Napa Valley 2005 Cakebread Red Hills Lake County 2005 Sky Vineyards Mt. Veeder Napa Valley Snooth's Panel Tasting Program met this past Sunday night, just in time for Thanksgiving, to do a blind tasting of that all-American wonder-grape, Zinfandel. We had a solid panel, which I lead and included: Karl - Professional chef and blogger Stephanie - Sales manager for Astor Wines & Spirits Greg - A representative for Frontier Wine Imports Natali - A wine enthusiast Clayton - A wine enthusiast Elizabeth - A wine salesperson with Astor Wines & Spirits Julie - A wine writer and blogger While technically not American, it is after all the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski,  Zinfandel has certainly risen to fame on the merits of the wines produced in Northern California. A true chameleon of a grape, Zinfandel has been used to produce everything from the ubiquitous White Zinfandel, to  everything from nouveau styles through some of the biggest, meanest, monster fruit bombs ever to emerge from the west coast. Most Zinfandel however could historically have been characterized as falling within two categories: the restrained elegant Bordelaise style or the rich, jammy fruit driven style that is probably the most typical and representative expression of Zinfandel. A bit of a quirky grape, Zinfandel require a long, slow growing season due to it's unusual ripening, prone to having both raisins and green berries on the same bunch. While producing what undoubtedly seem like warm climate wines, Zinfandel actually prefers a bit of a cooler zone in order to limit this problem and promote more uniform ripening. In general regions where Zinfandel has enjoyed success have been viewed as areas less conducive to the production of more prestigious wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The Dry Creek Valley region of Sonoma county has long been one of the hot beds of Zinfandel production and is a source of some of the greatest old-vine vineyards in the state. The more northern areas such as Lake County and Mendocino County in addition to Amador County and some of the other areas of “gold rush” country have also proven to be ideal regions for the production of Zin. Napa valley in general is too viewed as too warm though some exceptional wines have come from the valley, in particular the cooler, mountain regions such as Howell Mountain and Atlas Peak. At its best Zinfandel is a richly fruited wine full of black berries and spice with subtle soil tones and finely integrated structure. These are not shy wines with alcohol rarely below 14%, and more frequently close to, if not above, 15%. They are wines that can be flamboyant, though many producers have pushed the limits of what this grape can do and produced wines that were terribly alcoholic, jammy and packed with so much oak that while impressive to taste, were virtually undrinkable. In an effort to discover wines suitable for the Thanksgiving Day feast I selected a dozen wines that I felt would range within the classic style of Zinfandel though give expression to the full scope that this range is capable of. All of the wines were opened around 2pm and tasted by me at that time. The Panel Tasting went from 6-8pm and thus the wines saw between 4 and 6 hours of air during that time. The wines performed well and while there were some absolute stars all the wines had their virtues.  Each flight had a theme and tasters were asked to contribute their opinions for each wine and then choose their favorites.  The following begins with the least favorite and ends with the wine crowned ‘Best of the Night”. 12th place - 2005 Sky Vineyards Mt. Veeder Napa Valley 13.5%            $30 This was a controversial wine and the lean style and slight volatility provoked pretty visceral reactions from Karl's “vinegar and pine-sol” to Greg's “acetic and latex” and Clayton's characterization of the wine as smelling like a “cheap hotel room”. No one was a particular fan of this wine though I would have to say that it was much better when I did my initial tastings. My ninth place wine. 11th place - 2006 Sausal Vineyard Century Vines - Alexander Valley 14.7%    $30 This wine didn't illicit much emotion with Clayton feeling it was “good for the mass market” and Julie considered it “ nice, easy and accessible” On the flip side Elizabeth noted that it's “not excessively aromatic” nnd Julie commented on it “easy, soft finish”. That pretty much summed this wine up for me. The mouthfeel was very appealing but there was much there there. My twelfth place wine. 10th place - 2006 Dry Creek Vineyard - Somers Ranch Dry Creek Valley 15.0%        $24-26 There was a marked difference of opinion with this wine. Natali liked the “strong berry and pepper notes” on the nose while Karl felt it was “intense, and not in a good way”. Greg disliked this wine feeling that it was “grassy and earthy and totally out of balance with alcoholic heat and bitter tannins”. Elizabeth also felt the wine showed it's alcohol but enjoyed the” jellied rather than jammy fruit and Christmas pudding spices”.  I think this was an intense wine that was a bit heavy and dark and that may have been off-putting to some. My sixth place wine. 9th place - 2005 Quivira Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 14.9%        $15-20 While also provoking controversy this wine at least was fairly consistently viewed. The dark character of the wine was characterized by Stephanie as “ full of Christmas spice, coffee, and chocolate and even a little farty” Karl also found the fruit “dark and pruny” and Natali took the characterization one step further by noting the “nose lacked freshness”. Clayton enjoyed the “dark, oaky flavors” as did Greg who found the wine “a little funky but very cherried”. A solid middle of the road performance. My eleventh place wine. 8th place - 2006 Terra d'Oro Deaver Vineyard 100 Year Old - Amador 15.5%    $25 With this wine we move from wines that were mostly criticized to wines that garner more praise than complaints. While Greg felt this smelled “weird, like a coffee soufflé” Julie liked the “ bright puckery Jolly Rancher fruits” on the nose and Natali was also enthusiastic proclaiming this to be “quintessential Zin” though she did add it tasted “acidic almost to the point of saltiness” Both Elizabeth and Clayton noted the rather intense spiciness of the wine, Clayton even commented that he felt Like “ a big steak to pair with the spicy flavors” but went on to fault the wine for a short finish.   My seventh place wine. 7th place - 2005 Cakebread Red Hills Lake County 15.1%            $40-42 There were many points of agreement on this wine with both Greg and Julie finding a caramel element and Stephanie and Clayton both commented on the vanilla notes. The oak was noticeable to all and Julie saw it more through it's expression as star anise and spice. Beyond the sweet oakiness of this wine everyone was unanimous in noting the spicy, fruity though somewhat anonymous character of the wine though Karl felt this would be an ideal match for “Peking duck which would tame the wines acid and tannin”.  My eight place wine. 6th place - 2006 J. Pedroncelli Mother Clone Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 14.4%   $12-15       This was a bit of a surprise being our value leader, it was an impressive showing.  People were all over the board in commenting on the nose from Stephanie's “soft violets and plums” to Natali's “ dark chocolate and light fruits” and Julie's “peppery black fruit”. The theme of black spice was echoed by Greg who felt the wine had “ a strong licorice bitterness and spiciness but it's finishing too short” a sentiment shared by Stephanie. None-the-less everyone found this to be perfectly decent if not distinguished. My tenth place wine. BEST BUY 5th place - 2006 Holdredge Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 15.3%             $20 With this wine we really moved up a notch to wines that had more universal appeal though both Karl and Stephanie enjoyed the nose more than the palate with Stephanie commenting on the wines “great notes of earth, tar and smoke” which Greg characterized as “ the most complex of the flight, spicy, earthy, with pencil shavings and a bit of herbalness”. Clayton preferred the palate to the nose commenting on the “bitter cherry fruit”.  My fourth place wine. 4th place - 2005 Carol Shelton Rocky Reserve - Florence Vineyard - Rockpile Dry Creek Valley 14.8%         $30-35 This wine elicited some unusual descriptor though both Stephanie and Greg found black tea aromatics with everybody commenting on the “sharp”,” Acidic” or “citrussy” component of the nose. Natali enjoyed it and felt “ it was great but blunt, over quickly” While Julie liked it's “ funky, blackberry and pepper” qualities. Everyone also commented on the tannins with Stephanie summing it up as a “super-tannic Zin” My second place wine. 3rd place - 2005 Kunde Century Vines Shaw Vineyard Rsrv - Sonoma Valley 14.9%   $30                                                                                                                                                                                 Many felt this wine showed some obvious alcohol but everyone commented on the nose with Julie commenting on it's “interesting” nose and Elizabeth finding “jammy and menthol tones” while Stephanie noticed the “dried chile and dried blackberry fruit” qualities. Clayton also found the “aromas are strong and the wine has real staying power”. Natali liked the “creamy, low alcohol feel and vanilla and cinnamon flavors” while Greg felt the toasted marshmallow and sweet cherry fruit on the nose delivered more than the palate. My first place wine. 2nd place - 2006 Dashe Cellars Florence Vineyard - Dry Creek Valley 14.5% $30-35 While several tasters felt the nose here was a bit hot many had very positive things to say about it from Julie's comment that' it smells like apple pie baked by Grandma Rose” to Natali's comment on it's dry, dark chocolate, almost like a mole” notes and Stephanie's comment on the “waxy kind of blackberry fruit”.  On the palate it was liked though Karl felt I was “not a deep wine but jammy in a good way” Elizabeth found it “friendly and approachable, very jammy with obvious sweetness”.  Both Greg and Stephanie commented on its vanilla laced jammy fruit. My third place wine. 1st place - 2005 Howell Mountain Vineyards Beatty Vineyard Napa Valley 15.6%        $35-40 This was our winner by a fairly wide margin.  Everyone had something positive to say about the nose from Karl's “ Leathery and strong, this smells delicious” to Julie's “smells like complex, dark fruit cake”. Stephanie found “bark and soil tones” while Natali noticed a “smoky, cinnamon thing going on”.  In the mouth Clayton found this to be “ accessible with nice spice and earth, well balanced” while Greg commented on the “core of deep red cherry fruit” and Julie capped off the discussion with the succinct comment “ this warms you up!”.  My fifth place wine. And that was all we had to say. We brought the remainders with us to dinner and they went very well with our fine Cuban meal. Another successful, enlightening and, dare I say it, warm evening spent with the fine people that makes Snooth Possible. As we look forward to the Holiday season and beyong keep an eye out for our coming Panel tasting featuring California Syrah, Chianti Classico Riserva, and Wines from South Africa and Australia! If you are interested in participating in the next Snooth Panel Tasting please shoot me an email or check out the Events page on the Snooth forum. Until next time! Gregory Dal Piaz is the Community Manager at  Snooth, an avid Wine Geek with a passion for things Italian, and a long suffering Mets fan.    (hide)

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