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Wine Talk

Snooth User: ChipDWood
The 2007 Clos de los Siete. Oy.
Posted by ChipDWood, Oct 5.

I've written a full two part review of the latest prime example from Mr. Michel Rolland's massive operation just south of Mendoza, Argentina. I'll post it/them here as well just for convenience sake.

Warning: If you like this wine, you might not like what you're about to read. If you believe this wine, its makers, and its overall hype to be overblown... well jump on then.

Clos des los Siete refers to the seven owners who joint-own the Mendoza (or just south of), Argentina operation.

Here’s a GREAT read about the operation:
http://www.vinography.com/archives/2007/01/the_wines_of_clos_de_los_siete.html

The 2007 Clos de los Siete is a blend of 48% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 12% Syrah.

PART I: I’ve split this review into two parts: The first, as you read here, reflects the first day of tasting this wine, after a twenty minute decant. Even after so, the wine was wound so tight it was tough to approach with even the fattiest of food pairings. So, I sealed up the bottle, and let it sit out over night, to be tasted again the following day, hoping that a night spent in the bottle would soften it up.

Pairing: The ’07 Clos de los Siete, as of this tasting, is so tight and gripping that it would kill any live wild game you could serve with it.

PART II: I’ve split this review into two parts: This being the second part, after the bottle had a night to sit (while sealed) in the hopes that it would unwind at least a bit- but really to little avail. I went out of my way to like this wine- to give it the benefit of the doubt. Maybe I’m just missing the boat, and maybe in ten years it will have softened to the point of being enjoyable. Perhaps it’s just not my “style” of wine, since I do favor wines that I can pair with food and the like.

There’s a very good chance I’m just missing what all the hype is about concerning this wine. I understand Mr. Rolland enjoys a wealthy and healthy reputation with Mr. Parker- and I know too that he may have been on the receiving end of a bad rap from the film “Mondo Vino”, regarding his “consultations”, micro-oxygenation, et al... Truth of it is though, I have enjoyed cheaper wines that will be better in five years and are MUCH better NOW.

With all the money invested in the Clos de los Siete operation I can understand why this particular wine has such an unusually powerful backing behind it... but I’m afraid to say that with all of the notes of praise swirling around in its glass- I find that very glass to be half empty and entirely over-hyped, rather than half full.

It’s not a “bad” wine, just chock FULL of gripping tannins, not very well balanced, more a concert of head-crushing noise than a symphony of an esteemed French wine maker... and dramatically over-hyped, in my youthful palate’s opinion.

Pairing: Charging wild boar? Live and angry grizzly Bear? ...Stilton cheese?

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Reply by lingprof, Oct 5.

Ha ha, I loved the image of the food (perhaps a wild boar) jumping off the plate and fleeing this hostile wine.

It's funny because I had vaguely heard of Clos de los Siete, but didn't know much about them. From your review, I expected this to be a more expensive wine. Maybe because it seems odd for a wine this value-priced to be so tannic, or so 'hyped'.

Anyway, it had the perverse effect of making me want to buy it and try it. Because I often think "this wine is too tannic", but I don't know how "accurate" I am this early in my slurping career. So calibrating with a more experienced Oenophile might be useful. (But what if I end up liking it, heh heh?)

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Reply by Gregory Dal Piaz, Oct 6.

Well done. While I think I have a high tolerance for tannin than you I understand fully what you mean when you describe this massive, impenetrable wine. Lots of cold soak, lots of extraction, lots of new wood tannins makes for a black hole of a wine. Not my style either.

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Reply by ChipDWood, Oct 6.

lingprof: You very well may, and you certainly wouldn't be alone. I had an associate today try to "re-affirm" that perhaps I just don't like young, tannic wines. Fact of it is, I like young wines, but wines like the '05 Bordeaux have been (by the pound and by the ounce) considerably more gracefully integrated than this... frickin' creature.

Look- you SHOULD try it, if for no other reason than to say you did. And there IS a heck of a lot of wine in this wine for the price- it's just SO young, and SO... NOISY...

...Maybe I just need to face facts and admit that I'm probably just getting old.

I would be interested to hear other opinions.

Yours' in balance & integrated....ty,
Chip

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Reply by GregT, Oct 6.

I guess I wasn't drinking the same wine when I tried it. I didn't find it tannic. Quite the opposite in fact. That fruit was ripe and soft. The wine is big and of a particular style. Clean, lush, ripe malbec with a lot of color extraction, lots of wood, and who knows - maybe some acidification. And it's not particularly expensive. He's got at least one other wine down there too, which is in the same vein.



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