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Wine Talk

Snooth User: dmcker
Italian varietals in California
Posted by dmcker, Aug 26.

Just ran across this mini-series of articles on Italian varietals in California, and thought it might be of interest:
http://www.examiner.com/x-8614-San-Jose-Wine-Examiner~y2009m8d19-Italian-Varietals-California-Grown
http://www.examiner.com/x-8614-San-Jose-Wine-Examiner~y2009m8d20-Italian-varietals-California-grown--Part-2--White-wines
http://www.examiner.com/x-8614-San-Jose-Wine-Examiner~y2009m8d20-Italian-varietals-California-grown--Part-3--Red-wines

Though the series is an interesting idea, I found the result a little lite weight. Perhaps space and other limitations at that publication interfered. I imagine GregDP here at Snooth might do a more comprehensive job... ;-)

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Reply by GregT, Aug 26.

Personally, I like the idea. Good idea for a Snooth article too. The Napa growers modeled themselves on Bordeaux in the 1970s and 1980s, but it's long past time to look for more options. They've been interested in pinot noir and chardonnay since the beginnings of the modern industry, but only recently have been able to create any buzz about "Rhone" varieties, notwithstanding the fact that except for syrah, the next three major ones in the Rhone actually happen to be Spanish. And because of their climate and sun, they'd be better off looking at Spanish and Portuguese grapes IMO. And southern Italian. They've proven that zin can grow well so what about some of the others, like Nero d"Avola, etc?

There was a lot of interest at one time but the concept didn't take hold. Personally, I think it's because they planted willy-nilly. "I've got a hillside, let's plant sangiovese." I've only had a few that were really good, but Palmina does a pretty nice job with all of theirs, Fife at one time was experimenting with Italian grapes and put out a pretty good barbera and charbonono, and a few others have done well.

I'd love to see them plant nebbiolo in Washington state, and more tempranillo in CA and Washington, rather than cab, cab, cab, cab, merlot. It's why McRea vineyards in WA is one of my faves - who else is bottling a monovarietal counoise?

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Reply by dmcker, Aug 26.

Don't forgot all the 19th century wine pioneers in California from Italy. I assume there were far more Italian varietals grown in Northern CA before prohibition than in the several decades after WWII when the wine industry there reawakened. Besides primitivo/zinfandel, at least Inglenook kept on with its charbono. Plenty of Italian family names to conjure with in the industry there, (from Gallo and Mondavi, to Ferrari-Carrano and, I assume, Franzia, with many, many in-between), as well as Italianate names for the actual wines (Montebello, etc., etc....).

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Reply by Eric Guido, Aug 26.

My biggest problem with Italian wines from Cali is that I just enjoy the same wines from Italy so much that when I have them from Cali I find it hard to judge them on their own values. I find myself comparing them to their Italian counterparts more than anything else and it tends to leave me disappointed.

On a funny note. I once threw a Palmina Barbera into a blind tasting of Italian Barbera's and all but one of the tasters rated the Palmina as the best wine of the group.

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Reply by Gregory Dal Piaz, Aug 26.

Too tired and busy to get into this too deeply but I think the higher acid Italian varieties have a great future in California.

Barbera can be brilliant. i served a 1994 renwood linstedt vineyard reserve to a group of Italian friends maybe 2 years ago and they were blown away by the wine.

The more Sangiovese I taste the more impressed i am and boy have they coma long way since that first 1989 Atlas peak bottling. Blech, that was crap!

And as far as this being Article fodder. You better believe it. It's in the queue. Charbono first though.



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