It had been many years since I had visited the cantina of Fedrizzi and this was a different sort of visit. When I was much younger, my family would buy wine in bulk from Fedrizzi and I fondly remember their fine Teroldego.
While it is still possible to buy wine in bulk here, their finest cuvees are now sold in bottle, befitting their fine quality. This is a very small operation and the fourth generation of Fedrizzi still tend to the fields and carry out all the viticultural and winemaking duties themselves. Located smack in the middle of Mezzolombardo hard up against the hills that separate this Valle d’Adige from the adjacent Val di Non, the cantina is non-descript, sitting as it does under the family’s home.
The production here is rather small, consisting of some 25,000-30,000 bottles per year and is limited to a pair of Teroldego, a Lagrein and a Pinot Bianco, all from their own 5 hectares of vines. The wines are very expressive of their origins and are made in a slightly rustic, gutsy style though the Due Vigneti Teroldego bottling is decidedly more polished and modern with the obvious imprint of 12 months in barrique obscuring some of the house style.
These wines are only sporadically imported into the US market though they do appear in local markets from time to time. Should you stumble upon a bottle I highly recommend you give these wines a try.
What a wonderful nose this has right off the bat, redolent of spicy fruit, crushed berries, slight green herb note and an underlay of cocoa and earth. In the mouth this is fairly powerful with a crisp structure supporting really intense red-berried fruit with superb concentration and mouthfeel. There is an upfront touch of cocoa that is quickly subsumed by the dense fruit built over a base of really fine earthy minerality. The acidity keeps everything fresh and drives the spicy red fruits through the fairly long finish. This really speaks of Lagrein and while it may lack a bit of complexity it makes up for it with its zesty exuberance. 92pts
The nose here is quite savory with spicy herbs, a big flush of minerality and then salty, tarry fruits that recall crushed berries with a hint of black olive. The feel here is a bit chewy with very soft tannins and solid acidity supporting rich dense fruit. The expression of raspberry and strawberry fruit has lovely freshness and purity. The finish is long and fine for Teroldego with a light mineral dusting and a very fine, refreshing, cleansing quality. 90pts
2005 Teroldego Due Vigneti
This is a selection of the finest fruit, made in the vineyard, then aged for 12 months in barrique.
The nose is meet with top notes of baking spices and cedary wood but they are neither over-powering nor out of balance with the underlying fruit. The pure raspberry tones slowly grow in intensity and are joined by notes of tilled earth, herb, and tomato leaf. In the mouth this has a bit more power than the base bottling but also a bit more elegance with the intense, bright, fresh fruit notes building on the mid-palate. Soft, well-managed tannins caress the palate and their slight astringent edge adds depth to the pomegranate tones that lead to the juicy and seductive finish. There are soft tones of spice on the finish and then slightly edgy strawberry seed notes appear before yielding to the finale of lingering minerality. This lacks a touch of “teroldegoness” but is a very compelling interpretation of the grape. 92pts
Fedrizzi Cipriano - an old friendship renewed
- Reply by vigna uva vino, Oct 28, 2008.
One Teroldego I tasted in the spring of this year was a Zeni Teroldego Rotaliano DOC (didn't catch the vintage). It's a swaggering grape with the gusto and backbone of the region. Besides aromas of black currant and bright cherry, my tasting notes echo terroir driven similarities to your references to cedar, wood, violets, earth, mushrooms and spicy minerality.
- Reply by Gregory Dal Piaz, Oct 29, 2008.
The Zeni Teroldego is a bit cleaner than Fedrizzi. they are on the opposite side of the valley as well, not that the 3 kilometers make a huge difference but there is some affect. Zeni makes a great little wine that is not imported into the US...yet. If I can get some I'll be sure to try one with you!