GDP on Wine

Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz

Dinner notes from Whym. 10.8.2008

Posted by Gregory Dal Piaz, Oct 9, 2008.

I had a nice dinner last night at New York Citys Whym, review posted here;

The wines were an interesting array of Burgundian delights. We bagen the evening with a pait of Champagne.

The Moutard Brut Grand Cuvee ls a feminine expression to say the least. With it's bright floral and citrus nose gently tinged with light tones of yeast and face powder. In the mouth this is lacy with a fine mousse and good depth. Elegant and light with citrus, lemon blossom and apricot tones that are enhanced by the brisk acidity which leads through to a long, minerally finish. This develops a bit with air offering up notes of red apples sauteed in butter an the slightly fleshier mid-palate. Very nice and refreshing style. 91pts

On the other hand the Taittanger Prelude was more masculine with it's meaty toned nose and deeper, though swet doughy notes that recall Krispy Kremes. The mousse here was a bit coarse though the palate was silky and a touch creamy with strong pear and mineral elements. A bit simply two-toned but it's integrated acids kept the weight in the mouth in balance. Finishes a touch short but has a bit of sneaky length after all. A very broadly appealing style of Champagne. 89pts

We started onto the reds with a pair of recent release burgundies.

the 2004 Jadot Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots started of a bit woodsy with a subtle geranium tone the only remnant of the dreaded 2004 green curse. With air the spice and forest floor notes and dried cranberry fruit mask it well as it morphs into a subtle floral/herbal note. This is a touch tight in the mouth with slightly hard acids and austere tannins making things strict and sapid, just my style. This has sinewy muscle and good acid-driven length to the focused, mineral tinged fruit. While enjoyable now this looks to benefit from at least 1-3 years in the cellar. 89pts

A 2006 Drouhin Pommard was sweet on the nose with spice, coffee and graham cracker notes under nicely ripe fruit. Nice and ripe in the mouth even a touch chunky this is simple and approachable with light, fresh, sappy fruit up front that recalls raspberry. Turning a touch plumper with air this remains a bit rough and rustic but is fun and approachable. 87pts

We followed this up with a pair of wines that had some age to them, Unfortunately the 2000 Mugneret-Gibourg Feusselots had a touch of low level cork taint that just masked the fruit but you could still feel the sweet, ripe fruit of the wine. Good bottle look to be promising though the nose was a bit roasted and heavy with a sweet cola aspect.

The 1995 Rene Leclerc Combe aux Moines was a different story. While not the greatest wine it was great tonight. This was caught at the perfect moment for me. On the nose there were classic Burgundian notes of funky earth, autumnal leaves, light licorice tones, smoldering campfire and dried cherry fruit. Well resolved in the mouth with just a touch of tannin left and good acidity this was a touch disappointing after the wonderful nose and remained a bit simple throughout the course of the evening though it gained a bit of flesh in the middle and added a fine tea tone to the zippy finish. A great wine to drink today. 88pts

We then took a bit of a detour to the Pacific Northwest with the 1999 Arcadian Pisoni that offered up effusive dried cherry, cherry zinger tea, dried leaf and sassafrass notes. Decidedly bigger in the mouth with intense flavors of meaty fruit and excellent balance that belies the weight. Soft and almost voluptuous in the mouth though with substantial tannins that give the finish a touch of a murky feel, ends with a touch a vanilla on the finale. Lovely if still a touch young and finely straddle the new world/old world line. 90pts

As the night drew to a close we veered entirely from Pinot and pitted to rather disparite wines against one another.

A 2003 La Spinetta Barolo Versu Vigneto Campe was awfully obvious on the nose with masses of oaky, sweet fruit, sweet licorice and a bit of alcoholic heat. In the mouth this powerfully built wine exhibited lots of wood tannin, elevated alcohol and a sweet, extracted personality that is just not my cuppa Barolo it has sacrificed nuance and complexity of the grape for power and extraction of fruit. Bleh. 84pts

The 2005 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah on the other hand is a big, oaky, sweet blueberry scented wine that works in its genre. Huge in the mouth and a touch tight and tough still, with sweet, straightfoward inky black fruit that has tones of cinnamon toast and pepper oozing from the edges. This may be simple but it is huge and fun. A St. Bernard puppy of a wine. Not for everyone but then again neither is Petite Sirah and while this may not the most varietally correct example it makes for some pretty exuberant drinking. 90pts.

And that was it. A fine line-up of wines that really ran the gamut from the gamy, traditional Leclerc to the massive pillars that are the indelicate La Spinetta and clumsy yet lovable Switchback. Wine continues to surprise, and that's a lovely thing!


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