Wine & Travel

Snooth User: JonDerry

Burgundy - Piedmont Dinner in Oakland, Saturday 7/23

Posted by JonDerry, Jul 20, 2016.

Foxall and I are getting together for a Burgundy and Barolo dinner in Oakland this Saturday. We may have a seat or two available for anyone willing to make some spur of the moment travel plans.

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Replies

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Reply by dmcker, Jul 21, 2016.

Give NG a ping...

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Reply by Richard Foxall, Jul 21, 2016.

Some details are emerging:  We'll do it at my house, I'll make Osso Buco.  We'll drink at least one of my Barolos (probably 04 or 06 Aldo Conterno cru level), we'll also commit infanticide on a 2011 Brovia Rocche that JD wants to check out. 

JD will be staying overnight, and I can set up the rather awesome inflatable bed (some of you have experienced it already) for another person or couple. 

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Reply by outthere, Jul 21, 2016.

Grandparent duty this weekend. Sorry folks!

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Reply by GregT, Jul 21, 2016.

The 04 and 06 aren't infanticide?

Too bad regardless - can't make it up there this weekend. Sounds like a good plan though!

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Reply by dmcker, Jul 22, 2016.

"The 04 and 06 aren't infanticide?"

Beat me to it.

Otherwise sounds like fun.  ;-)

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Reply by JonDerry, Jul 22, 2016.

Having tasted the '04 Romirasco about a year or two ago, it definitely wasn't infanticide, though it may look that way on paper. Think the '06 will be likely closed though. Going to be quite a few young burgs.

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Reply by dmcker, Jul 22, 2016.

Interesting how opinions differ on that '04 and how open it is, JD. Good offer right now from KL on that Romirasco.

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Reply by JonDerry, Jul 22, 2016.

I didn't know enough to buy it when K&L had that sale. Was definitely aware of it, but not in a place to know how good a move it was. 

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Reply by dmcker, Jul 22, 2016.

Well the offer still seems to be 'valid', though they say they're out of stock:

Unless of course they archive these pages without saying so. No idea when the offers were first posted...

 

Here are some Conternos up in Fox's general vicinity that wouldn't be infanticide--even made back when the old man was vital. That 5L 2000 would be making a statement, though all those grapes jammed into that bottle are probably still going out clubbing & dancing up a storm most nights...

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Reply by JonDerry, Jul 23, 2016.

5L of 2000 Conterno does sound pretty grand. Good 50th Bday bottle perhaps.

On the plane to Oakland, bout ready for take off!

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Reply by dmcker, Jul 23, 2016.

How're your bottles getting up there?

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Reply by JonDerry, Jul 24, 2016.

Shipped them up beforehand.

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Reply by outthere, Jul 24, 2016.

And...?

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Reply by JonDerry, Jul 24, 2016.

Very enjoyable tasting and evening, not surprisingly. Big thanks to Fox for putting this together on fairly short notice.

We started with a whole fish of sea bass, and a pair of 2013 Chassage Montrachet 1er Chenevottes (will follow with pictures later).

2013 Domaine Dublere Chassagne Montrachet 1er Chenevottes

Found this fairly open and showy over two hours, though definitely on the riper, larger scaled side given the vintage. Tasted against a '13 Bernard Moreau Chenevottes, the Moreau came off noticeably more lean and mineral.

2013 Bernard Moureau Chassagne Montrachet 1er Chenevottes 

Very elegant, with good understated energy on the palate. On the leaner, mineral driven side, though the acidity is not overwhelming at all. Very classy and refined. Excellent, and while it may improve it's giving plenty of pleasure now. Preferred this to the '13 Dublere Chenevottes also tasted.

From here we transitioned to the mains of Osso Buco, and some delicious sides. While I was savoring the Bernard Moreau, I was a little behind on the two Chambolle Musigny V.V.'s, but found ten both very nice, if primary. Fox double decanted all reds 6-7 hours in advance and it seemed to have helped the Chambolle's, perhaps more than the Barolo's.

2014 Hudelot-Bailley Chambolle Musigny V.V.

Good ripeness for the vintage, with good fruit concentration and Chambolle elegance. Very even effort, though slightly preferred the Felettig Clos du Village also tasted for its extra gear of freshness and structure.

2014 Domaine Felettig Cambolle Clos du Village

Very primary, ripe fruit with good freshness and sneaky structure shows itself toward the back. Tasted along with the Hudelot-Baillet Chambolle V.V. I slightly preferred the Felettig for its extra bit of freshness and structure.

Fox had a head start attacking the Barolo's, and as I played catch up I found the two 2011's somewhat variable in quality, though later the host made a quick visit to the cellar, and found a 2006 Cannubi that we all were able to access and appreciate.

2011 Brovia Rocche de Castiglione

Found some soapiness on the nose initially that was a bit distracting, though it did dissipate with time. On the palate, this showed on the leaner, acidic side, and didn't feel that it ever fully came together.

The 2011 Fenocchio Villero tasted alongside had more fullness to the palate, and showed as the more complete wine, though clearly both of these wines need at least a few years to start to show secondary nuance. 

2006 Bourgogne Cannubi Riserva

Not a huge surprise that the additional 5 years of bottle age gave this wine a huge leg up on the competition, but it was great to see this modestly priced wine absolutely singing and showing the strength of the vineyard and vintage with its silky, satiny texture, delicious red fruit extract, and understated power.

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Reply by dmcker, Jul 24, 2016.

"the Moreau came off noticeably more lean and mineral."

Hardly surprising. Used to drink a lot of his juice.

 

"2006 Bourgogne Cannubi Riserva"

??

 

 

That soapiness is most often, in my experience, a youth issue. Just as it blows off over an hour or two after exposure to a lot of air, it also disappears with bottle age.

Did you find the Burgundy reds standing up to the Osso Bucco alright? Not a match I'd ordinarily recommend, depending on, amongst other things, how much tomato Fox uses in his recipe. The Burgundies' flavor profiles can take a palpable hit. Barolo on the other hand is a perfect match--something about the melding of the acidities. When I first started going crazy Italian, roughly 3 decades ago, osso bucco and risotto milanese would always scream for some Sperss accompaniment. I ended up using that meal as my testing template for a number of restaurants over several years.

 

Sounds like a great evening, not only for the wine but for the company (and hospitality).

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Reply by GregT, Jul 24, 2016.

Yep, great evening. Four people, seven good wines, what's not to like?

Good job folks!

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Reply by JonDerry, Jul 26, 2016.

Updated with pictures...Fox, still thinking about Cavallotto, even more so now after reading about their riserva. Greg T, Dmcker, or anyone else have experience with Cavallotto?

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Reply by Richard Foxall, Jul 26, 2016.

It would have been nice to have a few more folks, since we like to get together with as many of you as we can.  We certainly had enough wine, thanks to JD. 

I'd say, yes, it's infanticide to drink 04 and 06 Barolo, but I think it drinks well younger, better than it used to, because some of what made it tough was faults in wine making.  Long macerations--too long in some cases--were the result of stalled fermentation in cold cellars in winter.  There were also issues of green tannins that might never resolve but really showed early when grapes struggled to ripen, and then there was careless winemaking.  Nebbiolo will always have high acid and tannin, and it won't be for everyone, but if you like those kinds of things, along with incredible aromas, well, I like that kind of wine while it is still tasting of fruit, and the idea that the wine might go south between twenty and thirty years instead of improving makes me hesitate to let them go too long.  That 2000 AC 5L is not going to make a 50 year birthday, sorry--those 2000s are about at peak now. 

Just to clarify, the 2006 Cannubi was a Fratelli Serio e Battista Borgogno, and a Riserva, so a cru level and riserva from a small maker.  Serio died just this year, so who knows what happens next, what with Einaudi buying 9 hectares or something of Bussia and Vietti selling to Americans, but I got a nice deal on that and it was just terrific.  Everything you want in Barolo, and more generous, I thought, than a lot of Cannubi. 

I have nothing to argue with JD about the other wines, although I did not taste any soapiness on the Brovia.  I did enjoy both Barolo wines, slightly favoring the Villero.  For my money, Claudio Fenocchio is making must-have wines if you like Barolo.  But I also purchased two 2011 Brovia Garblet Sues when I picked up the Rocche at Flatiron on Friday, and will probably buy at least half a case of the 2013 bottling.  It's really about as good a Barolo as I tasted there.  (I'm talking as good as the '06 Ca d' Morissio that Mauro opened. Right up there with Burlotto's Monvigliero.) 

Anyway, big thanks to JD for flying up here, bringing the party with him, and just being lots of fun to be around.  His friend Richard dropped in, just about dessert time as the cupcakes with candle on one of them came out, and my friend David, who loves all things Italian, nearly anything French, and good food and company even more, added to the enjoyment.  My younger daughter even learned that she really likes red wine from Chambolle-Musigny, although I am not sure if I should be thanking JD for that. 

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Reply by dmcker, Jul 26, 2016.

Thanks for all the photos and commentary. Definitely a great-sounding-and-looking meal and gathering. In an ideal world, more of us would've been there...

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Reply by Richard Foxall, Jul 26, 2016.

JD, my quick take on Cavallotto:  They use rotovinifiers, but are otherwise very traditional.  We walked through Bricco Boschis a lot because our accommodations were right next door.  (The place we stayed is where I thought they should bring in an outside winemaker, if I recall correctly:  It's called Tenuta Montanello and has good land, bordering Boschis, with great exposure, but the owner planted some Merlot and isn't very serious about his wines IMO.  He's a great host, however.)  Back to Cavallotto:  Boschis is pretty much their only holding, divided into blocks.  (Vignolo is kind of a part of it, but across the road and just below Monprivato.) It's big, so they produce a fair bit, and though they have some non-native grapes as well as Dolcetto and Barbera, the vast majority is nebbiolo for Barolo.  When we tasted the Barolo wines, the first aroma out of the bottle was "poopy."  It wasn't brett IMO, and it blew off.  Once you got past that, the wines tended to be rounder and less hard than many others, I assume from the rotos.  One of our group, a well-respected collector of traditional Barolo, didn't like them at all, but GdP said that the wines really reflect terroir.  I don't like that term, but I agree that each wine from each block had a very specific profile that you could taste over the vintages.  There's a good bit of elevation change, and the land kind of fractures there so the soil types are actually pretty mixed.  Exposures for the Barolo are consistently south facing.  Here's a map and here are some photos, but you would see it better if you could really view the contour of the land and be familiar with the landmarks. The road in the background of the photo is the Via Communale del Grosso (Via Grosso for short) and runs along the back of a little ridge.  On the other side of the ridge is Vignolo with Monprivato above it; that area has a south exposure.  The area in front of the road in the photo faces north because of the slope of the ridge running up to the road; it's Vigna Scot and planted to dolcetto, so that will help orient you.  I think the Cavallottos do a really nice job at what they do.  They also have very nice marketing materials with great maps and photos, but their wines were not at the top of my list.  I liked them, even after the initial offputting aroma, but I wouldn't pay $90 for the Vignolo.  What do I know?  Parker, Galloni, WS all love the '06. 

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