Wine Talk

Snooth User: panoskakaviatos

Derenoncourt and Moueix : a study in contrasts for Right Bank Bordeaux

Posted by panoskakaviatos, May 2, 2013.

As you can read HERE, I was quite a big fan of most 2012 barrel samples from Moueix on the Right Bank in Bordeaux. 2012 is generally not an en primeur purchase, but some wines seem worth the ticket. For example, Chateau Trotanoy, one of the wines of the vintage - correctly scored by the still Almighty One, Bob Parker - was almost gone before anyone could get it for about €100 a bottle pre tax. Other wines from Moueix in 2012 promise to be very good too, including La Fleur Petrus, Certan de May and Latour a Pomerol.

I just posted a new text on my website contrasting the styles of Stéphane Derenoncourt and by extention Nicolas Thienpont (Pavie Macquin, Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse, Larcis Ducasse, among others) with the style of the Moueix. Now both styles are very respected, but I am a greater fan of the latter, because it stresses freshness as much as it does concentration. I wrote THIS ARTICLE over two weeks after en primeur because I more recently tasted both the 2010 and 2009 vintages of Derenoncourt’s own Domaine de l’A (AOC Cotes de Castillon) in Wettolsheim, Alsace, on 29 April.

Why? Because his wife Christine Derenoncourt flew to Alsace to present her and her husband’s wine along with a fine selection of wines from Domaine Albert Mann for professionals. The Barthelmé family is friends with the Derenoncourt couple. It was a great lunch, because it featured not only freshly hunted, and just roasted on a spit, wild boar (so good, it could convince some vegetarians to go back to meat), but also the great wines of Bernard Antony, one of the best cheese agers in the world - and Antony was there to serve his cheeses.

Anyway, the point is, while I liked Domaine de l'A 2004 from magnum with the wild boar, the 2010 and 2009 merely "impressed" me with their black colored concentration but left me wondering: where is the freshness? That experience reminded me of my visit on the late afternoon of 9 April to Pavie Macquin, to taste many Derenoncourt/Thienpont 2012 samples - just after having tried the Moueix barrel samples... The contrast is interesting.

Cheers, Panos



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