GDP on Wine

Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz

2010 Barolo live from Piedmont!

Posted by Gregory Dal Piaz, Mar 19, 2014.

I know there's a lot of interest out there so some brief notes. I'm just back from Brovia where the 2010s have decided to become a bunch of tough as nails sons of bitches. The 2011s at Brovia are gorgeous, incredible fruit and perfume with structure that I have never seen in a warm vintage. Truly terrific wines and the personality of each cru was so vivid, really exciting wines that should be fabulous relatively early on.  

I noticed the same perfume to the fruit at Vietti and G Conterno last year. 2011 was a warm vintage but it's better than the previous warm vintages. Think 1990 not 2009. Unlike many other warm vintages these 11s have plenty of color, terrific colors in fact, which is an oddity. I'm allocating funds for both vintages, though on a 2 to 1 or even three to one basis.

2010 Garblet sue is the best example of that cru I've ever had. The other three are also standouts but perhaps not as far ahead of previous vintages.  No doubt about it these are special wines, and while I’m not saying that if you missed the 89 and 90 Giacosas this might be your chance to grab back to back vintages of great crus that will be as legendary some day, I’m prepared to get awfully close to that statement.

Grasso's 2010s are lovely. The Chiniera much more feminine and attractive today showing great freshness and complexity, spicy and herbal. The Casa Mate decidedly more masculine and a bit less complex. Both show great potential and have a purity of fruit that is compelling, though stylistically a bit on the modern side in that the fruit is incredibly fresh and precise. Not a knock on the wines at all, just a stylistic not, I'm buying both, though more of the Chiniera

It's worth noting that almost every 2010 I've tasted this week has a bit of a vegetal edge to the fruit. These are not going to be easy wines when they are young but have the potential to develop for decades. Sometimes it's more a chinato note, like with the Grasso wines, other times its more camphor and integrates well into very strong floral aromas as is the case with the Einaudi Costa Grimaldi, but it's there

Einaudi's wines were also very strong. they moved from barrique then botte to half barrique for a year, then blended with the half already in botte. The percentage of new wood has also dropped from 50% to 30%. The wine show more delicacy and lightness than they previously exhibited and the Costa Grimaldi shows this in spades. Their Cannubi is a classic, it lacks the elegance of the Costa Grimaldi but makes up for it with depth of flavor, complexity and classically austere structure. The Costa Grimaldi is cursive with a fine ball point pen, the Cannubi a felt tip marker.

While 2011 may be a mixed vintage for Barolo it premisses to be a great vintage for Barbera and both the Einaudi Vigna Tecc and the Massolino Gisep are packed with incredible fruit, again showing an explosive ripeness and perfumed nature but without any exaggeration or roasted notes that were obvious in vintages like 2007 and 2009.

Massolino's Barolos in 2010 are classic old school Barolo. In need of patience to be sure, but so well delineated and capturing the soil imprint of each cru in Serralunga. Impressively complex and mineral driven on the palate. Their Parussi, from Castiglione north of Montanello and Bricco Boschis,  is another powerhouse in 2010, a really fascinating contrast to the learner, more angular crus of Serralunga and an opulent, rich style for Castiglione.

I'm alway a fan of the wines of Guido Porro. They are easy to like as they offer great value but in some vintages he knocks it out of the park. 2010 Lazzairasco is one of those times. The Santa Catarina is lovely, elegant and refined, but the Lazzairasco is just explosive. Tasted 11 and 12 of both out of botte as well, more perfumed fruit from the 11s here, the 12s are so young but show good purity if modest scale.


Reply by JonDerry, Mar 19, 2014.

Great run much to look forward to. Right now, it's '11 Barbera.

Reply by dvogler, Mar 19, 2014.

Big thumbs up!  Thanks Gregory

Reply by jescobio, Mar 19, 2014.

Nicely Done!

Reply by Richard Foxall, Mar 21, 2014.

Looking forward to tasting these soon, and others when I'm there.  Keep up the great work.  Interesting about the '10s, since that bandwagon is going to be huge now that WS has talked up the vintage. 

Is the 2 or 3 to 1 ratio is in favor of the '10s or the '11s?

I wasn't familiar with Porro at all and looked it up.  Tiny property with monopole holdings, imported by Kermit Lynch.  Time to check those out.

Reply by William Djubin, Mar 22, 2014.

Thank you GDP. I now realize I  have a million +1 challenges facing me, and am glad to have a reference.

Beautifully done. Cordially F&B at Barolo Rist. North Palm.

Whew..! again Mille Gratis.


Reply by Gregory Dal Piaz, Mar 24, 2014.

Thanks all, part two to follow soon.

Richard, skewed towards the 2010s, but the more I've tasted the 11s the more impressed I am with them. It's going t be a fruity vintage, but a terrific, fresh, joyous fruity vintage. I'll have a little bit of a better feel for the wines, when we taste them again, but holy cannoli are they delicious! So probably more like 2 to 1 after all, and maybe more like 1 to 1 if I can manage it!

Nice name for a restaurant William!


Reply by JonDerry, Mar 27, 2014.

So Suckling came out and threw some cold water on '10 Barolo yesterday, calling it merely a very good to outstanding vintage! Also mentioning that it's a bit uneven, while encouraging buyers to please "be careful out there". This guy is a walking comedy, but all the better in this case...doesn't need anymore hyping.

Reply by JonDerry, Apr 25, 2014.

Love when spammers revive the right threads...

So I see 2010 Oddero Barolo futures going for $45/each at Wally's. Having tasted and enjoyed the '61 and '07 recently, I should be buying.

Reply by Gregory Dal Piaz, Apr 25, 2014.

It's a very reliable wine. Bound to get more expensive in the future seeing as the Oddero's recently sold their not inconsequential holdings in Villero, to Vietti. Some of that juice ended up in the base Barolo. I would imagine that they will be purchasing some parcels to replace the Villero but now that they've made their Rionda a ten year wine, the 2004 will be released this year, they've expanded their pricing range so there is space for some extra $$s in there.

I haven't tried this wine yet, will be doing that next month, but I would bet that it'll be a fbulous and relatively early maturing Barolo, so something to drink over the next 20 years as we wait for the 2010 crus to mature.



Reply by JenniferT, Apr 25, 2014.

Super helpful! (Missed this thread the first time around) Now I will have to use this and see what I can find for purchase...

Reply by JonDerry, Apr 25, 2014.

Thanks for the insider info Greg, good to know there will be Villero juice in the '10 normale.

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