December 2008
It’s not every Tuesday afternoon that I tuck into a line-up of Australian Shiraz. Heck the truth is it’s not every year that I take a serious look at what’s happening with Australian Shiraz. The truth is the wines were never my style even though I recognize the quality that... Read moreIt’s not every Tuesday afternoon that I tuck into a line-up of Australian Shiraz. Heck the truth is it’s not every year that I take a serious look at what’s happening with Australian Shiraz. The truth is the wines were never my style even though I recognize the quality that many of these wines offer in their particular niche.
That’s not to say that I don’t occasionally enjoy a bottle of Aussie Shiraz, in a peculiar way Shiraz/Syrah competes for my attention as both the greatest wine value and a great wine, period. I don’t know exactly what it is that makes even inexpensive Syrah relatively complete and complex but the adaptability of the grape and the diversity of styles of wine one finds allows for comparison to be made across virtually every parameter by which we can classify wine. New world, old world, cold climate, warm climate, unoaked, 200% new oak. Obviously it makes for some very interesting comparisons!
With Australia, and in particular this line-up of value priced offerings, we are pretty much looking exclusively at warm climate wines and while many wines shows signs of fruit bombiness the price point helps ameliorate some of the worst excesses that that genre encompasses. It’s tough, but not impossible, to get $12 wines that are oaked to depth or have fruit weights approaching that of Atlantic City salt-water taffy. There are saving graces to be constricted by price.
As a group the wines showed very well, offering lots of fruit, good balance, and well thought out styles. In these difficult financial times it’s worth revisiting Aussie Shiraz for the value they offer. While many of these wines lack some of the detail and finesse many appreciate with Syrah they offer a rather full throttled exuberance at very affordable prices, which makes them perfect for parties, family and friends.
To those who really like the style of these wines this sampling represents a small snapshot of just how much these wines can offer at $12. Some of the standouts were really great wines and should be tracked down. The Zonte’s footsteps Shiraz-Viognier offered excellent aromatic complexity in a slight lighter, more elegant and earthy style that may not be quintessential Aussie Shiraz but was delicious. The d’Arenberg Footbolt on the other hand was excellent, and reaffirmed why it has been one of my go to bottlings with Shiraz. Rich, layered, and long it offered an array of Shiraz notes and is absolutely singing right now. It is a steal at the price!
The Players
Leo - Retail wine professional
Mike - Wine enthusiast
Michel - Wholesale wine professional
Kyle - Wine enthusiast
Zach - Wine enthusiast
Darren - Wine enthusiast
Jeff - Restaurant professional
The wines
Flight 1
1) 2005 Innocent Bystander Shiraz-Viognier 14.5% - $14
We started the blind tasting with a wine that seemed to get a little lost in the mix. Both Michel and Kyle were a bit neutral on the wine and noted that it had a certain vegetal quality. Darren and Mike “didn’t dislike it” which while not exactly complimentary represented the neutral feelings once again though Mike added, “ it has good balance and texture.” Leo was the wine’s biggest fan, echoing Mike’s comment on the wines feel commenting that “ while the dark spice wasn’t pronounced it was nice and the wine was round and had a fun feel. A bit disjointed. This also seemed a bit advanced; perhaps the screw top did not hold a perfect seal.
2) 2007 Sonoma Vineyards Syrah 13.8% - $14
This Sonoma bottling was our first ringer and it was universally well received though e few people commented on the wines sweetness. Michel felt it was “ relatively well integrated in a very soft way and a little obviously sweet.” Kyle also noticed the sugar adding “ it’s a touch sweet and simplistic, it’s good though I would call this an extended family party wine!” Jeff also felt this was a “quaffing wine” and noticed the “berried nose with a touch of olive” a bouquet that Darren notes as “ a distinct Syrah nose. Solid, pure juicy fun.
3) 2007 Zonte’s Footsteps Shiraz-Viognier 14.5% - $14
Mike caught “a little funk on the nose” with this wine and felt it was “intense and unyielding in a brooding style.” Zach also commented on the weight of this wine noting “ It’s very fruity and very ripe, a much bigger wine, nice finish with a touch of hoisin spice.” Jeff found this “interesting on the nose, there’s a lot going on, it’s got really good texture and mouthfeel.” Leo liked the ‘ succulent palate” as well and caught “ a bit of iron and earth on the finish.” Kudos to Darren for guessing that there was a bit of Viognier in this blend! A complex, elegant wine.
Flight 2
4) 2006 Hyland Penley Estate Coonawarra Shiraz15% - $20
This wine had divergent opinions about the nose and palate. Most of the tasters found the nose interesting as comments ranged from Michel’s “ leafy and weedy notes, dusty fruits and a little brett” to Zach’s mild licorice and gingerbread cookie to Leo’s feeling that this had “ a solid nose full of dried fruit notes. The palate however didn’t impress anyone. Mike called it “simple dark fruits and oak” while Darren felt it was “too sweet and loose, there’s not much to like.” Perhaps a bit blocky but this opened well.
5) 2004 Leeuwin Estate Siblings Margaret River Shiraz 14% - $20
While the Penley Estate promised more than it delivered this Leeuwin estate seemed to deliver more than it promised. Michel was “disappointed with the nose, the oak overwhelmed the fruit” while Darren though this was “sweeter on the nose and both he and Mike found a bit of tar on the nose. When comments switched to the palate however things really took off. Leo enjoyed the “ vanilla and Lipton notes on the palates big fruit. I really enjoyed that”. Zach noted the “ big, sweet fruits, simple but enjoyable with a bit of a sour edge.” Jeff also noted that the wine “ has high acid but the fruit really backed it up. A succulent, juicy wine.
6) 2004 Kunde Estate Sonoma Valley Syrah 14.1% - $20
This was a ringer and a bit pricier than most of the wines in today’s lineup. Mike was immediately convinced that this was from California and even called it as Sonoma! Kudos to Mike who felt this was “ medium bodied, elegant but big, really well done.” Michel found a lot of complexity on the nose with its “ Asian spice, dark fruit nutty notes and maybe a touch of brett.” Kyle also caught “a bit of funk on the nose, which I didn’t like. I thought I wasn’t going to like this but I liked the palate a lot, it was substantial and interesting and it’s the only wine I am curious about going forward. I would cellar a bottle for a year or two.” Zach noted that this “ evolved in the glass, it’s interesting, smooth but the finish seems very short.” A powerful balanced wine with a lot to say.
Flight 3
7) 2006 d’Arenberg The Stump Jump GSM 14.5% - $9
This, our least expensive bottling today, was surprisingly well received. Mike liked the aromatics calling them “floral and fragrant” while Michel noted that the fruit was “ very high toned purple fruit with a bit of VA and tar, the alcohol seems high too.” Darren also commented on the high alcohol on the nose but still found “ good fruit with a herbaceous note.” Michel enjoyed the palate calling it “short, fat and plummy” Mike thought it was “soft and pure red fruits with good balance. Leo enjoyed the “ silky, soft texture, delicate and really enjoyable.” It was a crowd pleaser.
8) 2005 d’Arenberg d’Arry’s Original Shiraz-Grenache 14.5% - $15
This had a nose that was off putting to most of the tasters who called it “chemical” “abrasive” “antiseptic” There was also a salty quality that Kyle referred to as “chemical salt and vinegar potato chips” while Zach captured it as “ berries dipped in the ocean”. Darren did note that the nose was “sweet and has notes of aged balsamic” while Jeff thought the wine was “ just a big sweet adolescent” Perhaps that is the best way to describe this wine.
9) 2006 Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Shiraz-Grenache 14.5% - $17
We returned to form with this wine. Michel commented, “ the nose changed a lot offering up BarBQ sauce, leaves, soft mushrooms.” Leo caught some “spicy oak and a leafy green thing going on but then it turned to pure strawberry with some burnt marshmallow.” Mike found this to have “ great texture, nice red fruits, really a lot going on in the mouth” and both Kyle and Jeff found the wine to improve in the glass offering “good fruit”. A solid wine with some sneaky complexity.
Flight 4
10) 2006 d’Arenberg The Footbolt Shiraz McLaren Vale 14.5% - $15
This was the wine of the day with universal praise. Darren started us off liking the nose with its “ good spectrum from heat to spice to fruit to floral” and Jeff picked that thought up adding “ it’s quintessential Shiraz, cocoa, vanilla oak, big but balanced fruit.” Leo caught some “plum, coffee and violets” on the nose and thought the wine was “ silky, fantastic, only complaint would be a wish it had a little more tannin.” Both Mike and Michel found a bit of cassis in the mix and Zach found a little note of “ stem of a rose”. Kyle enjoyed the “dark black berry fruit,” and though this was “ a little young but it’s nice, it has everything in balance.” A great example of its type and a compelling value.
11) 2006 Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Shiraz South Australia 14.5% - $20
After the intensity of the Footbolt this may have been lost a bit. Leo enjoyed this for it’ brawny chocolate, beef jerky and tomato sauce thing on the nose, I like the complexity here but it is a little more extreme.” Kyle also picked up a note of “stewed tomato” and liked the complexity of the wine. Mike was less impressed noting, “it’s not as structured, long or elegant as the last wine.” Another solid wine.
12) 2006 Four Vines Killer Canyon Paso Robles Syrah 14.8% - $35
This last ringer really jacked the price up and was met with a lot of interest. Mike immediately notes, “ This is something totally different.” Jeff enjoyed the “ very jammy, cocoa and coffee scents” on the nose but though the wine “lacked complexity and acidity in the mouth.” Zach felt the nose “ was really hot” and while it was “ too sweet on the palate there are some nice jammy plums with a nice touch of salinity and a little licorice.” Darren caught some “ rubber, cinnamon, and Robitusson, in a good way” on the nose and called the wine “ savage and masculine. It’s a beast, big and bold.” And it was a big bold way to end our tasting. Intense full throttle Syrah.
Gregory Dal Piaz is the Community Manager at Snooth, an avid Wine Geek with a passion for things Italian, and a long suffering Mets fan. (hide)