Elegant finish

• November 2009

  Juice on the Block" will be a collection of content about wine at auction. There are a good deal of good deals to be had (particularly now, Autumn '09) at auction, and it will be part of the goal of this group to track down (and occasionally read more...'stumble upon') the very best... Read moreJuice on the Block" will be a collection of content about wine at auction. There are a good deal of good deals to be had (particularly now, Autumn '09) at auction, and it will be part of the goal of this group to track down (and occasionally read more...'stumble upon') the very best of wine on the market- or, "Juice on the block", if you prefer. !http://images.snooth.com/term/e/d/3/term_64414_full.2.jpeg! "Lots of Interest" is our preview (or "Playbill, if you wish) for upcoming auctions. "Lots of interest" reflects what we feel to be items of particular interest- either for their rarity, condition, or price opportunity due to changes in the wine market at large. Bottom line: We can simplify the auction process for you, help you find items that would cost you double at retail shops, and in general; help your wallets and your palates sip and swirl in a better harmony. Click on the link here to visit the group to get the whole skinny on the upcoming Morrell Wine Auctions Live Internet Auction: http://www.snooth.com/tag/juice-on-the-block/ Here's a good appetizer for you to gauge your interest: Lot# 14 Château Beychevelle - Vintage 1996
St.-Julien, Quatrième Cru Classé
Four labels are scuffed.
4 Bottles Estimated to sell between $200 - $240. Next Bid: $170. http://auction.morrellwineauctions.net/lotdescription.do?auctionId=251&page=2&lotId=98421 Reason for Interest: The 1996 vintage in St.-Julien- while considered tannic- was very highly rated (96 overall, RMP)- leaving the impression that not only has the vintage “held up” but in all likelihood is rounding into its own right about now, thirteen years after release. The Math: The current retail price for a bottle of the 1996 Chateau Beychevelle falls between $70 - $100. This lot of four bottles is estimated to sell between: $200 - $240 at auction, and is currently bid to: $160. Next Bid: $170. So, if you’re willing to tolerate a hint of superficial damage, start at $170. Even if this lot is sold for the low bid of $200, that breaks down to $238 with the buyers’ premium (before state tax). That brings us to $59 per bottle before taxes- $10 cheaper per bottle than even the lowest price you would find this wine at a wine shop. You save $40. IF the bidding even gets that high, and if it doesn’t, you’ll likely take this one home, drinking in its prime, with some scuffs on the labels. Lot #30 Château Gloria - Vintage 1996
St.-Julien, 
Excellent Appearance, owc.
12 Bottles Estimated to sell between $240 - $480. Next Bid: $280 http://auction.morrellwineauctions.net/lotdescription.do?auctionId=251&page=3&lotId=98437 Reason for Interest: Again, the 1996 vintage for Bordeaux was a good one, and again this example from St.-Julien should be drinking in its wheelhouse as I type. The math itself is also off the charts. The Math: The current retail price for a bottle of the ’96 Chateau Gloria falls (roughly) between $40 - $60. If we were to bid $300 for this lot, that would equal a total of $354, with premium, before tax. That breaks down to $30 per bottle- equaling a savings of $120 for the case vs. the lowest retail price around. That’s more than interesting, it’s intriguing. This is what the Wine Advocate had to say: “The 1995 and 1996 are two of the finest Glorias produced over recent vintages. Both the 1996 and 1995 are uncommonly hedonistic, plump, and precociously-styled wines. Low in acidity, rich in cedary, black currant fruit, medium-bodied, and lush, these two wines will provide delicious drinking young, yet both will age for 10-15 years. The 1995 is lower in acidity, and may not possess quite the density and power of the 1996, but readers looking for high class claret with immediate appeal would be foolish to pass it by.” ...Hence the Interest. Lot #53 Château Le Bon Pasteur - Vintage 1990
Pomerol, 
Five levels are high shoulder or better. Five labels are badly glue stained.
5 Bottles Estimated to sell between $260 - $400 Next Bid: 200 http://auction.morrellwineauctions.net/lotdescription.do?auctionId=251&page=6&lotId=98460 *Note the glue-stains and the not-so-perfect levels. These are important considerations and reflect that we’re not dealing with perfectly stored bottles here. It’s more of a gamble, but the levels being where they are, and the absence of any evidence of seepage- past or present- is a good thing and plays to our favor a bit. At most, I would bid the minimum of $200 and see if that makes me a winner. This one’s a bit of a gamble, but could pay a handsome reward. The Math: The current retail price for “pristine” bottles of the 1990 Le Bon Pasteur falls between $80 & $100 per bottle- which is quite high for a wine that may be drinking a tad past its prime (though noted as “Youthful” by Clive Coates in September of 2000). Hypothetical: Bid $200 and sit tight. Should you possess the winning bid for that amount, your total cost for the lot before tax would be $236, equaling $47.00 per bottle. That’s a considerable savings when compared to the pristine retail bottles within which the wine may be the very same. I am intrigued by this lot, but would keep that minimum bid on the table and back away should someone come in a tad higher. Sometimes, like Vegas, what you DON’T bid is what you win in the wine auction world, and bottles with conditions such as those pronounced in this lot could paint the clearest example of that thought in the long run. ...Or it could be one of the best deals in the sale. Lot #309 Château d'Issan - Vintage 2000
Margaux, Troisième Cru Classé
Excellent Appearance.
6 Bottles
"Medium-bodied, with sweet but noticeable tannin, and a dense finish that builds gradually and persistently, it appears to be the finest d'Issan produced in over four decades." 93 points, RMP. Estimated to sell between $240 - $350 Next Bid: $240 http://auction.morrellwineauctions.net/lotdescription.do?auctionId=251&page=31&lotId=98716 The Reason for interest: The vintage, the excellent condition, the math. The Math: It’s a 93-rated wine from Parker, though Mr. Coates didn’t quite agree and thought it only “pleasant, even elegant, but lacking a bit of concentration.” The 2000 Chateau D’Issan currently retails between $60 - $90. If we were to keep up with bidding and even space ourselves a bit by going to a max bid of $260, that would come to around $307 for the lot including premium & before taxes- breaking down to $51.00 per bottle. That’s a modest savings, but also a savings that bakes in the bidding to get to our max bid of $260. If we were to win the lot at an increment below that at $240 (which we’re positioning ourselves to have a shot at doing by our bid of $260)- we could walk away with a bottle price of around $47 before taxes for the six. Not half bad for a 93-rated 3rd growth from the 2000 vintage in Margaux, all things considered. Lot #313 Château Giscours - Vintage 2000
Margaux, Troisième Cru Classé
Excellent Appearance.
6 Bottles 
"Probably the finest Giscours made since the 1975, this black/purple-colored 2000 offers up terrific notes of camphor, creosote, blackberry, and cassis jam intermixed with notions of smoke and earth. Spicy, with low acidity, a big, rich, fleshy, full-bodied palate, outstanding texture, and a long, pure finish, it is, to reiterate, one of the best Giscours produced over the last 25 years. A sleeper of the vintage." 92 points, RMP. Estimated to sell between $240 - $350 Next Bid: $220 http://auction.morrellwineauctions.net/lotdescription.do?auctionId=251&page=32&lotId=98720 Reason for Interest: The vintage (2000, again), the appellation (Margaux, again), and the math. Again. The Math: The current retail value of the 2000 vintage Chateau Giscours comes in around $85.99 per bottle before tax. If we were to position our bid at $260, and win at that price, it would bring the cost of these six bottles to approximately $307 after premium, before tax. That comes out to just under $52 per bottle- and that’s if we win the lot with our max bid. If the bid were to be hammered at $220, that would bring things down significantly, to $43 per bottle. $43 for a bottle that received a warm 92 point rating from Parker, that is not only drinking very nicely now but should continue to do so for the next five years, according to Mr. Coates." ... "Lots of Interest" is just one of the aspects that we'll be presenting for the "Juice on the Block" group. As we get things put together for it, you can look forward to market news, wine opportunities for both selling as well as buying, profiles of legendary wines only available at auction, their makers, the auction houses where one can find them, and most importantly: how you can take advantage of the seemingly intimidating world of wine auctions- and make it your best place to shop. Hope to see you soon and that you come along for the ride! Chip !http://images.snooth.com/term/e/d/3/term_64414_full.1.jpeg!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic New Lots of Interest (amongst... by ChipDWood

  
  

• November 2009

  Our local big liquor store chain who is generally pretty unbeatable for prices on wine, beer and liquor, had a BV tasting at one of their locations tonight. It was quite far away, but I knew they were including the Tapestry and Dulcet, which I have been wanting to try. I have had... Read moreOur local big liquor store chain who is generally pretty unbeatable for prices on wine, beer and liquor, had a BV tasting at one of their locations tonight. It was quite far away, but I knew they were including the Tapestry and Dulcet, which I have been wanting to try. I have had a smattering of BV wines in the past. They were of consistent quality but the ones I had were nothing remarkable. The only one I'd really speak highly of (before tonight's tasting) was the Georges de Latour. I was very luck to grab the 2005 for like $55 and it's relaxing in my wine cellar presently. They had a box to drop your name in for two bottles they will be raffling of the Georges de Latour. Would be awesome to win! I reviewed all the wines independently, but here was the lineup and a recap, using the Snooth rating system. Coastal Estates- 2008 Chardonnay- 3 glasses 2008 Napa Carneros Chardonnay (not Coastal of course, but he poured the two chardonnays together)- nice banana and melon with some oak- 3.5 glasses 2008 Sauvignon Blanc- 4 glasses 2007 Riesling- super sweet, a bit too much for my taste- 2.5 glasses 2007 Pinot Noir Vin de Pays- too young tasting, like a Beaujolais Noveau- 2 glasses 2006 Merlot- Nose of currant, rhubarb and licorice. Nicely balanced eucalyptus and cherry tones- 2.5 glasses 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon- Fairly nice cab, but slightly bitter finish- 2.5 glasses Napa Valley- 2005 Merlot- Nice, but a bit tannic. VERY oakey for a merlot- 3 glasses 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon- Nice, reasonably good middle ground cab. I expected a bit more for a "Napa" designation- 3.5 glasses 2006 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon- Velvety and smooth. My favorite cab of their lineup at this tasting- 4 glasses Reserve- 2004 Dulcet- 74% cab 26% syrah. Nice blend I'd stack against any super tuscan of the same makeup. The Dulcet is the most expensive behind the Georges de Latour- 4 glasses 2005 Tapestry- Elegant and smooth Bordeaux blend. The best wine tasted tonight. A great value at $30-$40. Wonderful.- 4.5 glasses The sales guy pouring also opened a 2007 The Prisoner by Orin Swift Cellars. I really enjoyed the 2006 so was anxious to try this one. I have one waiting to be drunk, but when someone else is pouring, you try! I found it to not excite me quite as much as the 2006 because I really liked the bold, in your face style that blend had. The 2007 is a bit more refined, smooth and relaxed, but still a great wine. 4 glasses. Obviously it all depends on each person's taste, but if you're a cab person, go after the Rutherford and if you like a claret, the Tapestry is great. Of course, if you don't mind the $100 per bottle price tag, go for the Georges de Latour. If I win, I'll review it! The one I hold presently is a 2005 and when tasted at another event, it was magnificent! Any other BV fans out here? Weigh in on your faves!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Beaulieu Vineyard lineup... by VegasOenophile

  
  

• November 2009

  Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic... Read more Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic memories from childhood are of German cuisine and one in particular, Goulash.  To this day, a rainy autumn afternoon or snowy winter night will always stir in me the desire for a warm bowl of goulash.  Its moderate heat is perfectly tempered by the rich sauce and natural sweetness of the onions.  When perfectly cooked the meat nearly melts in your mouth and becomes part of the sauce.  This is the ultimate comfort food.  The recipe included below may be very different from what a chef would learn in school, or what the typical cookbook may provide, but I assure you that it will create a Goulash of incredible depth and richness.  The ingredients are simple, but it requires a certain amount of patience from the cook, and passion for the food.  This preparation wasn’t taught to me by one person; instead it was constructed from an old traditional recipe and then fortified by the knowledge of a number of people that credit themselves as Goulash aficionados.  One may have wanted nutmeg, another to brown the meat, but in the end I took the knowledge of all of them and, through experimentation, constructed what you see below.  What to expect: Zinfandel Zinfandel is considered America's own great indigenous grape, even though its origins lie on the Adriatic coast. Planted throughout California and the Pacific Northwest, Zinfandel is at its best in warm regions with cooler temperatures during harvest. The wines can range from off-dry Rosés (aka White Zinfandel) and light bistro styled wines, to big, rich powerful wines - and even luscious dessert wines. The flavors range from plummy to raspberry, although deep blackberry fruit and brambly spice tones are most common. Find more Zinfandel However, there has always been one piece missing in this equation: what wine should I pair with it? Firstly, my experience with German reds is limited and most restaurants I’ve dined at consider beer to be the beverage of choice. Even the wine list at one of my local favorites, and possibly the best German Restaurant in New York City, has only a small number of Rieslings and one or two German reds. Secondly, a good Goulash will usually have a certain amount of heat to it, which poses another problem, where it might overpower the average red. Then it dawned on me: Zinfandel. A wine and food match pairing rich, earth partners. 2007 Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel Ponzo Priced from $29.99 This wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  This Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. Hungarian Goulash This recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests, while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal I choose to pair two wines with this dinner because, like most varietals, Zinfandel is made in many different styles.  The one style I wouldn’t recommend with this dish is the heavily fruited and almost sappy sweet Zinfandels that sometimes cross your path.  Instead I went with one of my most trusted producers, Ridge, and a bit of a wild card that I discovered this year while in Napa Valley, Trespass.   2006 Trespass Zinfandel, from Napa Valley was, surprisingly, a light ruby red color with aromas of bright red fruit, cranberry sauce and a bit of chalk dust. With time the fruit became darker with clove spice and plum, providing beautiful contrast to the heady, rich, beefy aromas of the goulash. On the palate it showed dark blue fruit, cedar and clove, adding complexities to the dish’s earthy flavors of rosemary and paprika.  It's full-bodied and zesty acidity worked wonders, carrying the fruit through the spicy heat of the goulash to end in a long finish reminiscent of sour cherry cough drops. This was a beautifully nuanced and complex zinfandel that ended up as the majority favorite of the night.   2007 Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyard was in many ways the yin to the Trespass Zinfandels yang.  The wine was a dark purple color in the glass and wafted aromas of black cherry fruit followed by confectioners sugar, sage, and a bit of nail polish remover (I mean that in a good way) which added a floral perfume and kept me with my nose to the glass for minutes on end.  On the palate it delivered big, lush brambly fruit with spicy vanilla and dark chocolate flavors.  The wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  The Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. In the end, I have to say that both wines performed equally well but for totally different reasons.  Each wine is, in my opinion, a superior expression of Zinfandel and while the Trespass will capture your soul in its web of elegant fruit and spice, the Ridge will quicken your pulse with its racy perfume and palate of rich bold flavors.  The most difficult part of this pairing was deciding what to do next, eat or drink. The Hungarian Goulash captured us all in our own way.  For me it was nostalgia while, for one guest, it was a wild and new experience, and another saw it as a taste of home.  And for a fellow chef, it was trying to figure out how it was possible to achieve such complexity with so few ingredients.  I think it’s time you try it for yourself. Hungarian Goulash To download a printable pdf file of this recipe please click here. The first thing to understand is that this recipe is all about patience and low, even temperature.  The best cooking vessel to use depends mainly on how much you want to make.  The recipe below is made to serve 7 – 8, and the reason I choose this high yield is that you can always use the extra as leftovers and, due to the time it takes to make it, you might as well have extra.  For the 7 –8 servings I suggest using a heavy stainless steel roasting pan that can span across two burners on your stove.  However, if you were to choose to cut this recipe in half for a small group then I would suggest a cast iron or earthenware vessel such a Le creuset. Secondly, this recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal. 5 pounds beef chuck (fat trimmed, cubed or cut about 1 ½ inch long, ¾ inch thick) 5 large yellow onions (sliced thick wedges) 8 Tbls tomato paste 3 Tbls hot paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 1 Tbls sweet paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 2 tsp dried oregano ¾ tsp fresh grated nutmeg 3 branches fresh rosemary about 4 tsp salt Pepper to taste 5 cups water 2 Tbls AP flour Extra Virgin Olive Oil (as needed) 4 Tbls sweet butter (for the finish) 1 lb fettuccini (Can use egg noodles; serve with potato dumplings or even rice) Place roasting pan over two burners on your stovetop and pour enough olive oil to coat entire bottom of the pan. Set burners to low-medium flame. Once the oil is heated, add onions with a healthy pinch of salt and toss to coat in the oil. Cook over low-medium flame until onions turn translucent but do not allow them to take on any color. Reduce flame to low. Make sure the onions are evenly spread out on the pan bottom and add the beef slices by placing them on top of the onions in an even layer. The beef should cover the onions completely but make sure that none of the pieces touch the side of the pan. The onions should create a cushion between the pan bottom and the beef. Sprinkle another pinch of salt over the beef. Next, sprinkle all the paprika over the beef evenly (I like to use a sifter for this to create a fine and even layer.) Now add the oregano and nutmeg again, evenly over the beef. Lastly, place two (of the three) rosemary branches on top of the beef. (Do not disturb the layers you have created.) Cover the roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil. Check to make sure that the flame is on low. After about 3 – 5 minutes you should hear the mixture bubbling. Allow the mixture to cook like this for 35 minutes and then loosen the aluminum foil to allow a little steam out of the pan. After another 5 – 10 minutes remove the foil (do not discard) and turn all the pieces of meat over. Check to make sure the onions are not burning. You should notice that the meat and onions have released a lot of their juices. Place the foil back on top of the pan (loosely) and allow the mixture to cook over low heat for another 45 minutes. Now place a saucepot on the stove over medium-low flame, add the five cups of water and whisk in the flour slowly, making sure that no lumps form. Now add the tomato paste and again whisk until it is combined. Allow this mixture to come up to a gentle boil but make sure to whisk regularly. Remove the foil from the roasting pan, remove the two branches of rosemary from the pan and add the boiling water-tomato paste mixture. Turn the beef and onions over in the sauce. The cooking liquid should just barely cover the beef and onions. Bring this mixture back to a simmer over medium-low flame and cover loosely with the foil so that steam can escape from the pan. Cook this mixture for an hour to an hour and a half, and stir gently once or twice to make sure that the mixture is cooking evenly. It’s at this time that you should taste. Check to make sure that the beef is tender. Season with salt and pepper. Then turn off the heat. If you want to serve the same day, let this mixture sit for about an hour before going to the next step. If you want to use this for the following day, move the mixture to a bowl and place in an ice bath to cool it quickly, then cover it tightly and place in the refrigerator. When ready to finish, place the Goulash in a pot and set over low heat. Bring another pot of well-salted water to boil for the pasta. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the instructions on the package. While waiting for the pasta, set the butter out on the counter and cut into cubes. Strip the last branch of rosemary for its leaves and chop them. By the time the pasta is finished, the Goulash should be perfectly heated through. Taste for seasoning one last time and then add the butter and stir gently until combined. Strain your pasta and toss in olive oil. Set the pasta on a plate and hollow out a circle in the middle. Pour one or two (depending on the party) ladles of goulash into the center of the plate and sprinkle with the fresh chopped rosemary. Clean the rim of your plate with a warm, moist paper towel and serve. Be prepared for praise.    (hide)

  From the article Goulash, The ultimate comfort food

  
  

• November 2009

  @DM , I taste the Santa Julia Extra Brut NV from them, easy drinking and good price . And tasting note from Chief Winemaker RODOLFO MONTENEGRO : "Elegant and delicate pink color with violet notes. Lively and bright AROMA Red fruits such as cherry and strawberries, typical of Pinot... Read more@DM , I taste the Santa Julia Extra Brut NV from them, easy drinking and good price . And tasting note from Chief Winemaker RODOLFO MONTENEGRO : "Elegant and delicate pink color with violet notes. Lively and bright AROMA Red fruits such as cherry and strawberries, typical of Pinot Noir. FLAVOR Soft and creamy with a wide volume in the mouth. Subtle presence of fresh red fruits. Fresh and lively with an excellent balance and a long finish"    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Good sparkling wines not from... by cigarman168

  
  
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  November 2009

  Seven Hills Merlot 2007

  Snoothrank:

  Big nose of spicy complex berries. One of the leanest mouthfeels I can recall - ... cherries and a delicate elegant finish

  Wine review by solomania9

  
  
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  November 2009

  La Feline 2005

  Snoothrank:

  Excellent! Smooth, fresh aromas of blackcurrant, a little smoky, silky tannins on an elegant finish.

  Wine review by FrederiqueA

  
  
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  November 2009

  Chateau Leoville Barton St.-Julien 2005

  Snoothrank:

  After not having given Bordeaux's much traction, a friend and I decided that we ... a touch of smoke, and an elegant finish that went down, down, down..

  Wine review by mbugbee

  
  

• October 2009

  Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Cutting the fat with Dry Rielsing Eric Guido returns this week with a stunning Fettucini in Truffled Cream Sauce recipe. Using the the theory of contrasting flavors Eric has paired this dish with a set of dry... Read more Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Cutting the fat with Dry Rielsing Eric Guido returns this week with a stunning Fettucini in Truffled Cream Sauce recipe. Using the the theory of contrasting flavors Eric has paired this dish with a set of dry rieslings. In the wine and food pairing world there are two fundamental concepts that govern pairing decisons. One can choose to either contrast, or to compliment, the flavors and textures of a dish.In this case the rich creaminess of the sauce is contrasted against the brilliant mineral, and acid rich flavors of the wines. Other wines that would be worth exploring for this sort of dish, rich, creamy and laced with prosciutto, would include Pinot Bianco from the Alto Adige, Fiano di Avellino from Campania, dry Riesling from Australia or even a fine aged dry Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley What to expect: Riesling Riesling is a chameleon of a grape, able to produce world class wines that range from bone dry to unctuously sweet. Germany is most closely associated with Riesling, where all styles are made, and the range of flavors runs the gamut from steely and crisp with crunchy, mineral driven flavors to fresh lime, apple, and peach notes and beyond to the rich honied, candied fruit tones of the great dessert wines. Find more German Riesling Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Autumn is truly a great season for food and wine lovers.  As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to fall, we find ourselves craving the rich and hearty foods and wines that truly make life worth living.  Maybe it’s a creamy spiced squash bisque or a rich succulent braise that triggers those happy thoughts of good times and good friends.  For me it’s the foods of Northern Italy that always fit the bill.  One of my favorites is a pasta dish I mastered while working as a chef at T.H.O.R.: Fettuccine in truffle cream sauce. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce Not a dish you could eat every day or even every week but, when the cards are down and inhibitions are lifted, this is a plate that is sure to please with its bold flavors beautifully intertwined in an elegant, decedent, yet simply prepared sauce.  The woodsy, smoky and slightly salty flavors of the prosciutto combined with the fresh, sweet vegetal flavors of the peas, which balanced by the creamy sauce, wafts intoxicating aromas of truffles into the air.  The best part about this recipe is that the majority of the work is in the preparation, meaning you can prep your ingredients before your guests arrive, entertain them with a bubbly, and then return to the kitchen to finish the dish in literally 10 to 15 minutes. So what would you pair with such a dish?  I used this opportunity to experiment with Riesling, more specifically dry (trocken) Riesling from Germany, and I’m sure glad I did.  My theory was that the same lively acidity Riesling is known for would cut through the rich creaminess and intense flavors of the sauce, which it did in spades.  Also, Riesling is known for aromas and flavors different from most white wines, all of which added new dimensions to the truffle cream sauce.  For a dish such as this you would want to find a dry Riesling for its brisk acidity and citrus, mineral qualities.  Riesling is also known for being a wine that truly reflects the place in which it is grown.  This fact was truly apparent in the two wines I selected, as one was a single vineyard selection and the other a blend.  2006 Weingut Paulinshof Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken The single vineyard 2006 Weingut Paulinshof Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken sliced through the truffle cream sauce like a hot knife and added new dimensions to the sauce with it’s flavors of sour apple, orange zest, and hazelnut, leading to a sweet mid-palate with tongue curling acidity.  On the nose, it showed lime and melon, which managed to hold its own against the cream sauce’s heady aromas of truffle.  As you dig deeper the fruit is backed by the smell of chestnut, slate stone, and almond skins, which provide wonderful details and complexities.  This was everyone’s favorite of the night but, while not necessarily expensive, cost almost twice as much as the other wine. 2007 Peter Stolleis Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken The 2007 Peter Stolleis Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken was a light yellow straw in color with fresh aromas of peach nectar, lemon, and a bit of butter cookie.  The palate showed lemon rind and sweet pear but was all focused on the first impression with very little mid-palate performance.  The acidity was fresh and focused which did its job against the truffle cream sauce and followed through to a sour citrus finish.  Not a wine to think on but made for a wonderful simple sipper that paired well with the dinner and could have scored much higher in everyone’s book if it wasn’t evaluated against such stiff competition as the other wine. In the end, both Rieslings held their own and complimented the dinner quite well.  However, if it was up to me to make this again I would go for the 2006 Weingut Paulinshof simply because of its multiple levels of flavor and rich textures which truly complimented the decadence of the truffle cream sauce.  So next time you find yourself craving the finer things in life without spending hours in the kitchen, I invite you to try this recipe and pair it with a dry Riesling.  I think you’ll find it’s worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce.   Click here to download a printable PDF of this recipe. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce This recipe is all about planning and timing.  When working in fine dining, every plate is prepared separately in its own pan, no matter if the entire table orders the same thing.  However, at home, this would be nearly impossible, as you’d find yourself running out of burners very quickly.  I have adjusted my recipe, which was initially intended for a single plate for a party of four. When it comes to the truffles, look for white truffles.  If you have the funds to actually buy truffles for shaving over this dish then that’s great.  However, if you’d like to keep the cost of your meal outside of the stratospheric cost range, you can easily use truffle oil.  Be careful, though, when purchasing truffle oil by looking for a brand that has actual truffle in the oil, and stay away from anything that has ingredients that read “truffle flavoring.”  I use white truffle oil from Wild Forest Products. Lastly, a note on the prosciutto.  When you go to your butcher, ask for them to slice the prosciutto thick, about 1/8 of an inch.  At that size you will likely need about two slices for this recipe.  This will speed up your preparation.  Trim the fat and cut the prosciutto into a small dice. 1 lb bag of fettuccine (timing in recipe is for dry pasta) ¾ cup Prosciutto di Parma (small Dice) 1 cup peas (frozen is fine but go for a good quality brand) 1 shallot (fine dice) 3/4 cup white wine (if possible, use the same wine you are pairing) 1 cup vegetable stock 1 quart whipping cream (at room temperature) 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano (grated) 4 tbls butter (cubed) truffle oil (see recipe instructions for use) salt and pepper (to taste) fresh parsley (minced) 1 tbls. canola oil. Preparation Start a pot of salted boiling water.  This is not for the pasta; it’s for the peas.  Also have a bowl half filled with ice water to create an ice bath.  Place the peas into the boiling water and let them par-cook for 4 - 5 minutes until they turn a vibrant green.  Immediately strain them and throw the peas into the ice bath.  Strain them again and set them aside, covered, in your refrigerator. Heat sauté pan over medium heat and add about a tablespoon of canola oil.  Carefully use a paper towel to coat the pan with the oil.  Add the small dice of Prosciutto di Parma to the pan and cook off.  You’re looking for a toasted appearance on each side.  While the prosciutto is cooking, cover a plate with a paper towel (think about how you cook off bacon for Sunday breakfast.)  Once the prosciutto is toasted on each side, take off the heat and move onto the plated paper towel.  Set the prosciutto aside. Have all of your ingredients ready and close to the oven.  Place your serving plates in an oven at the lowest temperature (this will keep the sauce from breaking when you plate the food.) Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil for the pasta.     Place a large saucier or sauté pan over medium low heat.  Melt 2 tbls of the butter in the pan and add the shallots and season with salt.  Allow the shallots to sweat in the butter until they are translucent. Turn the heat up to medium and allow the pan’s temperature to come up, but be careful to not let the shallot take on any color.  Add the white wine and allow it to reduce.  As the white wine is reducing in the pan, add the pasta to the boiling pasta water and set your timer to 2 minutes short of the recommended cooking time. (You are now at the point of no return.) Add the stock and whipping cream to the saucepan and raise the heat to a medium high.  Stay close to the pan and continue to mix regularly to make sure that the cream is not burning on the bottom of the pan.  The idea is to reduce the cream by 1/3. After about four minutes, add the pre-cooked prosciutto to the pan and continue to reduce.  If reduction appears to be going too quickly then turn down the burner to medium low.   Taste and season lightly with salt. The timer for your pasta should go off about the same time as the cream has reduced to desired level. Pour the pasta into a colander and quickly rinse out the pot with hot water.  Place pan back on the stovetop over a low flame. Drizzle pasta with truffle oil and toss.  Then add the pasta back to the pot and pour the reduced cream sauce over the pasta along with the par-cooked peas and stir to combine. Turn off the burner and add half of the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and last two tbls of butter.  Stir to bring the sauce together and taste.  Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Remove the plates from the oven and portion the pasta out with tongs.  (Don’t worry about the sauce at this time because it will collect at the bottom of the pan.)  Once you have portioned out all of the pasta, use a ladle to sauce each plate from what is left at the bottom of the pot, making sure to distribute the peas and pieces of prosciutto evenly. Drizzle each plate with truffle oil.  (Be careful not to overdo it.  Truffle and truffle oil can go from good to overwhelming very quickly.) Then sprinkle with the remaining parmigiano and then with parsley. With a warm paper towel, clean the rim of the plates and serve. Learn more about German wine and Food Pairing: On Snooth Learn to Decipher German Wine Labels An easy guide to help you find Dry Riesling German wines, whose labels offer you all the detailed information you need to make a great selection, can be very intimidating. It’s time to make it a bit easier. In case you missed our recent article, it helps one learn how to tell dry wines from sweet and find a Riesling to match your needs. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce By: Eric Guido Autumn is truly a great season for food and wine lovers.  As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to fall, we find ourselves craving the rich and hearty foods and wines that truly make life worth living. For me it’s the foods of Northern Italy that always fit the bill.    (hide)

  From the article Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce

  
  

• October 2009

  Five Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share... Read moreFive Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share a few glass here in New York. Preceding dinner was an in-store tasting at New York’s Chambers Street wines where I was able to revisit the 2007 Bianco and 2006 Barbera d’Alba that I had previously tasted in the cellars. For those of you not familiar with Oddero it’s a historic Cantina of La Morra, in Piemonte, yet produced wines from many of the villages that constitute Barolo. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, though their base Barolo is quite fruity and they even produce a Cabernet Sauvignon based wine called Fureste: The foreigner in the local vernacular. The real stars of the Oddero line-up are the single vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco. These are beautiful wines that may not be terrible expressive in their youth but blossom wonderfully with age. These earlier vintages are testament to the quality of the vineyards, coming from the family’s holdings in La Morra and Castiglione that are now bottled as Cru wines.   For more information on the wines of Oddero please see the previously published : A Killer Visit with Oddero     2007 Langhe Bianco Fruity on the nose with floral tones and pear fruit. Huge acids in the mouth give this great cut with a faceted quality to the mineral laden white fruits. This is assertively mineral on the backend and into the long finish.  89pts 2006 Barbera d’Alba Sweet and sour fruits on the nose are uncomplicated yet pure and bright. The classic Barbera acidity keeps this bright and zesty on the palate as well with a clear, slightly bitter black cherry tone and nice accents of tar, earth and violet than add nice length on the finish. 88pts 1961 Barolo A bit high toned on the nose and showing some volatility yet very aromatic with leafy tones of tobacco some sweet medicinal notes and a lovely array of assertive truffle and sweet angelica root tones. There’s a touch of teriyaki that emerges with air as well. While this retains a nice tannic bite it is fairly well resolved with a clear quality in the mouth that allows the bright sweet/sour cranberry tones to take center stage with hints of licorice and tar adding some detail around the edges. The fruit is fading a bit and doesn’t have great persistence in the mouth with a limestone mineral note taking over on the moderately long finish.  A very enjoyable,, fully mature bottle of Barolo. 92pts 1967 Barolo This starts off bit funky on the nose transitioning from the barnyard to a leathery, seaweed flecked bouquet that exhibits some classic mint and truffle tones before surrendering to a deep beef bouillon, dried onion and allspice tone. In the mouth this still has some flesh, which is well balanced by the relatively soft structure that remains. It gains more richness as it sits in the glass and the sweet edge of maderization gives an impression of sweetness to the cranberry/rhubarb fruit. There is a nice spice element that adds to the moderately long finish and a touch of burnished orange peel on the finale. The palate is fresher than the nose here but if this bottle is indicative these should be consumed sooner rather than later. 88pts 1970 Barolo The aromatics here present quite a contrast with a fresh, crisp celery note intertwined in the sweet black cherry core of fruit. There are hints of sweet tea, veal stock and fresh shitakes adding complexity but there is also a touch of rum on the nose that is a little off-putting. On the palate this is large scaled if soft with a wonderfully plush texture to the cherry and rhubarb fruit with hints of tar and subtle spice tones drawing out the moderately long finish. 90pts 1971 Barolo The cork on this bottle was pristine and the condition of the wine was exceptional. Such a deep color and such reticence on the nose that one would be forgiven thinking this was decades younger. The nose opens with a huge fresh celery note that is slowly subsumed by wonderfully sweet and fresh black currant and black cherry fruit tones.  With air the nuances of coffee, cigarette ash and burnt raisin tones add their detail to the bouquet though a touch of volatility does emerge, adding lift but also a bit of glue to the nose. In the mouth this is elegant with superb balance. The ripe, round tannins remain well concealed in a plush core of fruit. The lovely mouthfeel is complimented by the earthy floral tones and bitter cherry fruit the wine retains but the finish does reveal a bit of heat and the tannins gain a slight powdery edge with time in the glass. This is filled with fruit yet it lacks a touch a detail. It may very well continue to improve in the bottle. 91pts 1974 Barolo This really has a lovely fruity quality on the nose with a lightness and brightness that still makes this smell quite youthful. There are nice notes of dandelion, pigskin, dry earth and licorice that add nice detail to the fresh black cherry fruit. In the mouth this has such purity and real finesse. It is clean and polished with a great core of mineral tinged black cherry fruit, superb length and a sleek, refreshing feel. It is elegant; a touch simple and perhaps even delicate by Barolo standards but is pure joy to drink. Each note is so precise and clear here that you don’t need any more complexity to be completely satisfied. 94pts 1978 Barolo Reticent on the nose yet evolving rich hints of macerated flowers, sandalwood, tar and wet animal fur in the glass. This is continues to be decidedly matte feeling with plenty of fleshy fruit backed up by rich, slightly chewy tannins. The fruit is dark with earthy, leathery tones and excellent length but this still has a touch of an undeveloped feel. It’s rich and lusty if a touch rustic and may remain so. 92pts 1989 Barolo Vigna Rionda The aromatic on this are superbly layered and still very fruity with hints of iron, smoke, smoldering herbs and dusty earth embedded in sweet notes of cherry, candied strawberry and strawberry and cream fruit tones. In the mouth the tannins remain ripe yet rigid giving the mouth an excellent, precise feel. This is rich and powerful and the fruit is just beginning to yield the stage to the emerging tertiary notes but remains wonderfully youthful. 93pts 2001 Barolo Mondoca di Bussia Soprana The nose combines very fruity and intense notes of candied black raspberry fruit and cactus leaves with hints of cigarette smoke, clove and vanilla giving this a bit of a modern appearance. Big, rich and chewy in the mouth with big tannins and a dark core of confiture of black fruits. There are nuanced of espresso foam, licorice and backing spices adding accent notes on the long finish but this is still very youthful and showing lots of baby fat. 92pts 2004 Barolo Spicy on the nose, with jammy red currant fruits and a touch of carob. Lovely fresh tannins and rich fruit give this a soft, round feel with ripe wild cherry and boysenberry fruit that is fresh and intense if a bit simple and dilute on the finish. A fine Basic Barolo 88pts 2004 Barolo Villero A real step up in refinement over the base Barolo with red fruits on the nose accented with clay soil tones rose petals, sweet sassafras, spicy savory tones and a liquory black fruit top note. This offers up a really layered and complex. Set of aromatics.  Deceptively soft at first, the wine snaps together on the mid-palate with well-balanced, crisp, faceted tannins and prominent yet integrated acids framing the bitter cherry fruit. There are lovely herbal, medicinal tones that draw out the inner core of sweetness of the fruit and add resonance on the long finish. A very promising wine but one that is best left alone for a decade. 91pts    (hide)

  From the article Isabella Oddero Visits New York

  
  

• October 2009

  One of the things that continues to amaze me is the just the sheer number of wineries that there are in Northern California. I’ve been to a lot of them but there are so many more that I have not been to. That’s why, when I had the opportunity to, I dropped in to Mantazas Creek... Read moreOne of the things that continues to amaze me is the just the sheer number of wineries that there are in Northern California. I’ve been to a lot of them but there are so many more that I have not been to. That’s why, when I had the opportunity to, I dropped in to Mantazas Creek Winery in Bennett Valley. Mantanzas Creek Winery is one of the historic wineries in Sonoma County. It is up in the Sonoma Mountain range in the Bennett Valley appellation. It is a historic winery that has been in operation for more than 30 years now. Many people know it for its Lavender Garden but it is also known for its wines. It is now owned by the Jackson Family but is run as a separate entity. It isn’t a huge production facility, I think it was quoted at 50,000 cases to me but I forgot to write it down. However, I did remember to take down my tasting notes. There were multiple tasting options including tours and paired foods. I decided (since I was heading to Loxton to work) to pick a few wines to try. • 2007 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County $24 (4/5) - Bright fresh wine with grassy and citrus notes. Good acid as expected from a sauvignon blanc and proves that a good sauvignon blanc can come from Sonoma County. http://www.snooth.com/wine/matanzas-creek-sauvignon-blanc-2007/ • 2007 Matanzas Creek Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley $29 (3/5) - Somewhat soft style chardonnay. Aromas and taste were a bit muted but were delicate and nicely balanced. Finished with some mineral. http://www.snooth.com/wine/matanzas-creek-chardonnay-sonoma-valley-2007/ • 2007 Matanzas Creek Pinot Noir, Bennett Valley $35 (3.5/5) - Very nice wine and one that I think will approve with age. Came across as a cross between a Carneros and Russian River Valley Pinot. Red cherry with a hint of caramel in the nose. Strawberry and cherry flavors with good acid. http://www.snooth.com/wine/matanzas-creek-winery-pinot-noir-2007/ • 2005 Matanzas Creek Merlot, Jackson Park Vineyard $49 (4/5) - Lighter elegant Merlot. Hard to believe it is 100% merlot as it is complex and has hints of what I’d expect from other varietals. Clean wine with cassis and coffee with nice smoothness and long finish. Would like to see how this ages. http://www.snooth.com/wine/matanzas-creek-winery-merlot-jackson-park-vineyard-bennett-valley-2005/ • 2005 Matanzas Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $35 (3.5/5) - Not quite as intense as I was expecting. Had a little bit of a bite to it that suggested it could use some more time. Otherwise, nice red fruit and great leather and smoky aromas. http://www.snooth.com/wine/matanzas-creek-winery-cabernet-sauvignon-2005/ Wines not tasted but available when I was there: • 2008 Matanzas Creek Rose of Merlot, Sonoma County $17 • 2005 Matanzas Creek Merlot, Bennett Valley $35 • 2003 Matanzas Creek Proprietors Blend, Bennett Valley $29 • 2005 Matanzas Creek Syrah, Sonoma County $25 • 2006 Matanzas Creek L’Ultime, Sonoma County $35 - syrah based dessert wine Matanzas Creek is a bit out of the way but it definitely worth a visit. When the lavender is in bloom it can overpower the aromas of the wine but the wine is worth a look. Many of the grapes for the wines are sourced directly from Bennett Valley and display uniqueness amongst Sonoma County wines. I can only describe it as terrior. Matanzas Creek: 6097 Bennett Valley Road Santa Rosa, California 95404 Telephone: 800.590.6464 or 707.528.6464 Fax: 707.571.0156 Email: info@matanzascreek.com    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Mantazas Creek Visit … by HondaJohn

  
  

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