January 2010
Top Picks from 2009
Now that a new year is upon us, it’s time to reflect a bit on the wines tasted, and enjoyed, throughout 2009. Everyone publishes their list of top wines, heck just last Friday we published a couple of lists, but about what interested you,... Read more Top Picks from 2009
Now that a new year is upon us, it’s time to reflect a bit on the wines tasted, and enjoyed, throughout 2009. Everyone publishes their list of top wines, heck just last Friday we published a couple of lists, but about what interested you, the Snooth user.
Today I want to take a look back at what interested me. I’ve put together some lists, grouped by grape variety, of wines that were not only great, but that are also available on your retailer’s shelves. These are the wines I want to buy again, or that get filed in the deepest recesses of my brain to be referenced when I’m faced with a particularly puzzling restaurant wine list.
I’m not saying these are anything but some of my favorites. I think it’s a pretty good list, full of some surprising selections in many cases, but always open to discussion. Not with me, I chose them after all! So without further ado my many Wines of the Year, in no particular order.
One of the Year's Best Buys
This will not come as a surprise to anyone who knows me. I am a certifiable Nebbiolo freak. I love the grape and the wines, but the prices have gotten a bit out of hand lately. I always suggest that people turn to the best Nebbiolo d'Alba for the greatest values, but when a meticulous, artisanal producer starts offering Barolo from the village of Serralunga at a rock bottom price, well lets just say it's a great way to get my attention, and my wallet open.
2004 Guido Porro Barolo Vigna Santa Caterina
Priced from $31.99
This was wonderfully fresh on the nose with heather floral tones and whisps of wild strawberry emerging with some air yet with time the floral elements took control of the aromatics and added a base of cigarette smoke, oily coffee beans and spearmint that was compelling...
See page 2 for all of my favorite Nebbiolo wines
Pinot Noir Tops My List
In trimming each of my lists to fit this email the one I had the greatest difficulty with was the Pinot Noir list. There is simply a ton of great Pinot coming from around the world. I think my favorite Pinot of the year has to be the utterly surprising 2007 Johan Estate from Oregon. Sadly it seems that this particular wine is now sold out, so I did not include it on my list. If you happen to find a bottle, grab it! It's a real treat!
2008 Felton Road Central Otago Pinot Noir
Priced from $32.99
Lightly smoky and earthy on the nose with watermelon and spicy cherry fruit that has a light candied cranberry tone. Fairly lightly bodied though juicy and transparent in the mouth with spicy mineral tones giving the wine an almost salty tinge that adds to the subtle...
See page 3 for my favorite Pinots
Cabernet Sauvignon Rounds out the Top Three
Cabernet Sauvignon is still king of the red wine world. So many of the wines really are great, but the prices of the best, from California to Bordeaux, have become difficult to deal with. One great find this year that did not make my list is the 2005 Sausal Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. If I could have found it at retail it would have gotten top billing, a truly delicious California Cabernet that recalls the great wines of the past, at a very affordable price. Until it shows up on the retail shelves I guess we'll have to make due.
2006 Trinitas Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon
Priced from $38.59
Intense yet fine with plenty of oak but strong black currant, tomato leaf , licorice, vanilla and mint tones. Lovely mouthfeel, rigid with a touch of woody sweetness and wonderfully pure fruit. The tannins are modest and a touch stiff but in proportion and well balanced...
See page 4 for all of my favorite Cabernet based wines
My Top wines of the Year
Nebbiolo - Page 2
Pinot Noir - Page 3
Cabernet- Page 4
Zinfandel - Page 5
Sangiovese - Page 6
Syrah and Rhone Blends - Page 7
White Wines - Page 8
The Best of the Rest - Page 9
[PAGEBREAK]
Guido Porro Barolo "Vigna Santa Caterina" 2004
This was wonderfully fresh on the nose with heather floral tones and whisps of wild strawberry emerging with some air yet with time the floral elements took control of the aromatics and added a base of cigarette smoke, oily coffee beans and spearmint that was compelling. Polished and broad in the mouth with wonderfully fresh strawberry fruit and elegant notes of anise and herbs, this remains lithe and refreshing in the mouth. Air adds to the power here, introducing a touch of pruniness and the fruit turns darker but retains a seamlessness and purity that is very attractive. A wonderful bottle of Barolo 93pts.
Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2004
This offers astounding purity on the nose with a high toned appeal that melds jammy wild blackberry fruit with spicy soil tones and a touch of sweet wood. Structured and tough in the mouth with a seamless feel though packed with tannins. The tannins are so ripe and the wine so full of fruit that this is rich and flannelly in the mouth before the wine begins to close in the glass. Fine balance and deep balsamic tones accentuate the fruit and leads to a long, savory sweet finish. 96pts
Oddero Barolo Bussia Soprano Vigna Mondoca 2004
The smoky nose opens slowly revealing a bit of Ivy, some gravel dust, fresh green herbs then darker notes of old wood, dried flowers and subtle dried fruit tones. 3+
Round with a big, powerful entry very ripe tannins and excellent supporting acidity 3
Great intensity of flavor in the mouth weight any excess weight, melon rind and spicy almost gooseberry fruits that develops a more red fruited aspect with time yet retains the spicy, almost exotic edge 3
Very focused finish with great intensity of mineral tones and huge reserves of fruit on the long, lingering finale-3.
95pts
Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 2004
100% Lampia clone from vines averaging 20 years old. 15 days maceration in tini, temperature controlled if needed, Aged 10 months in small, 3-5 HL, French oak barrels where Malolactic fermentation takes place. Aged an additional 20 months in botte.
Slightly liquory fruit at first with a touch of fresh sawdust on the nose then turning very sweetly fruited and expressive with handfuls of freshly picked aromatic herbs, sandy soil tones, bright spicy red fruits, ever so jammy currants, sharp notes of dry, white soil, beautifully perfumed. A powerful yet elegant expression in the mouth with great structural balance that support a rich core of red fruits with a subtle medicinal edge. Very aromatic in the mouth with almost spearminty sweet herbs, dark spice notes and an edge of fennel. This offers up an impressive core of sweet-tart wild cherry fruit that shines brightly on the finish accentuated by subtle fennel seed and bitter cherry pit tones. Classic Barolo in need of 5-7 years in the cellar 93pts.
Castello di Neive Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2004
Smoky on the nose with a deep earthen spice and limestone notes. The fruit is still tight on the nose but in the mouth this unfurls seamlessly with fine elegance and low key fruit that is tight and unyielding but builds on the backend with a wonderfully richly fruited finish. thus deserves a few more years in bottle or several hours in a decanter but is super stuff! 92pts
[PAGEBREAK]Pinot Noir
Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate 2007
At first the nose seems dominate by oak influence with vanilla and spice tones but with time the earthy fruit begins to rise from the glass. Earthy and stemmy with lots of cola and root beer, this lacks some focus. Very fresh feeling with a natural quality to the fruit supported by big structural elements, the palate impression of this wine is certainly different than what the nose promises. Wild berry tones on the palate are a touch gamy and sauvage with earth and spices tones playing supporting roles. This pushes through with a bright and assertively refreshing finish. Give it another year though it’s excellent today. 90pt
Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago 2008
Lightly smoky and earthy on the nose with watermelon and spicy cherry fruit that has a light candied cranberry tone. Fairly lightly bodied though juicy and transparent in the mouth with spicy mineral tones giving the wine an almost salty tinge that adds to the subtle stemmy and floral complexity of the wine. 92pts
Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 2005
Very floral and sweet on the nose with cherry, mint and a light medicinal character that continues to gain sweetness in the glass and has great complexity revealing deep soil spice tones and a lovely violet pastille top note. In the mouth this is soft and rich and packed with sweet fruit that has a melony freshness to it. Deep, dark mineral tone weave through the fruit and offer compelling length on the finish. Very fine and drinking well though this has the potential to move up a notch with half a decades cellaring 94pts.
Holdredge Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Sweet and a touch overtly woody at first with a bit of Grenache like garrigue, dirt, red flowers, a touch of toast and hot iron over a reticent core of very fresh cherry. With air really gains Pinot typicity with a dusty minerality and subtle redwood and sappy accents to the red fruit. Soft and almost viscous tasting, but feeling fine and elegant, though the wine does seem to ooze across the palate a bit. Very fine tannin and a fair bit of them. Very autumnal top notes, dried herbs, leaves, tea, touch of caramel apple, dark spicy black cherry with a touch of ludens cough drop to it. Good transparency with real lush ripeness to the flavors. Turns sappy and twiggy on the finish, which has an assertive mineral cut. Very perfumed on the very long finish but without a lot of intensity. Classic Pinot. 93pts
Domaine des Lambrays Morey St. Denis 2005
Very floral and sweet on the nose with cherry, mint and a light medicinal character that continues to gain sweetness in the glass and has great complexity revealing deep soil spice tones and a lovely violet pastille top note. In the mouth this is soft and rich and packed with sweet fruit that has a melony freshness to it. Deep, dark mineral tone weave through the fruit and offer compelling length on the finish. Very fine and drinking well though this has the potential to move up a notch with half a decades cellaring 94pts.
Antica Terra Pinot Noir Oregon 2006
Awesome aromatics with a beefy, black pepper tinged core that is accented by slight cola notes and lovely sweet/savory Burgundian fruit. On entry this seems a bit muddled with it's earthy presentation but quickly sorts itself out as the mid-palate brings together that earthiness with a bit of roast meat juiciness allowing the wild blackberry fruit to pop in all it's organic, herbal tinged glory. Finishes with good length and deep, dark fruit tones set off by a pumpkin pie spice note. Unusual and delicious. 93pts
Melville Estate Pinot Noir 2008
Fantastic on the nose with animal fur, spicy, green herbs and stems, and incredible lift and height. This is a particular expression of Pinot that certain has its followers and dramatic appeal. There’s plenty of fruit lurking under the engagingly high-toned aromatics in the black raspberry and slightly boysenberry toned register. This is smooth and rich with rich strawberry and raspberry toned fruit that has a dusting of cocoa with a real deep core of wonderfully ripe fruit that has a lively, vegetal, rhubarb edge to it. . The finish is still a bit rough with tannin and acid poking out but the fruit is pure, fresh and nicely complex. 93pts
Foley Estates Vineyard and Winery Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa 2007
Very floral at first with a light, whispery character that gains a soft, lightly vanilla and tamarind-scented edge to the soft strawberry fruit. There are backing notes of mocha, oaken spice that gain intensity but don’t cover the fruit. Silken on the palate with stealthy tannins and wonderfully supportive acids that keep the slight herb and cocoa toned cherry and strawberry fruit fresh and lively across the palate. Really very fruity on the backend yet with a refreshing slight green edge that yields to some more oak spice and some obvious, yet integrated wood tannins. This should benefit from another year or two in bottle but is already delicious and very well balanced with impressive length to the finish. 92pts
[PAGEBREAK]Cabernet Sauvignon Based Wines
Sausal Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
A wonderfully fruit driven nose with deep, smoky, dried chili notes, leafy ripe black currant fruit, hints of black olive, leather, dill, and crushed flowers and just the faintest traces of oaken spice. A bit light on the palate with fresh red fruits topped with green herbs and sweet bell pepper tones. This lacks some of the complexity found on the nose but offers up a refreshingly pure mouthful of slightly minty, slightly herbaceous, coffee tinged, unabashedly Cabernet fruit and finishes with the fuzzy mouthgrab of fruit tannin. 91pts
Trinitas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Intense yet fine with plenty of oak but strong black currant, tomato leaf , licorice, vanilla and mint tones. Lovely mouthfeel, rigid with a touch of woody sweetness and wonderfully pure fruit. The tannins are modest and a touch stiff but in proportion and well balanced allowing the pure fruit tones to take center stage. This is not a powerhouse but a well balanced, well focused bottle of cab that recalls some of the classic wines of the 80’s and shows very little sign of the formidable 14.9% alcohol. 93pts.
Château Cos-d'Estournel St.-Estèphe 2001
A bit of woody sweetness greets the nose with woodspice notes well integrated into the core of fresh black currants, dried chilies, and a hint of crushed flowers. The aromas here are amazingly well defined. Explosive freshness greets the palate with those silky tannins giving this good breadth but the height in the mouth is profound. It still has a hint of buttered herbs but the core of bitter cherry and black currant fruit powers thought e mid-palate leaving the backend saturated in slightly minty crème de cassis tones with hints of juniper and spice on the long finish. The integration here already is quite remarkable and the tension the wine retains is profound. A great bottle of Bordeaux in the making. 96pts
Malk Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 2006
Black olive, black currant, intensely aromatic, milk chocolate, roast beef, lots of paprika and coriander spices. Like velvet on entry, good acidy very well concealed tannins, tons of plush, vanilla and cinnamon scented fruit. This is super refined, very fresh and a fruit bomb without the fat and weight of most fruit bombs. This is very easy to drink with a broadly appealing style and a structure that is soft enough to allow this to be enjoyed on it’s own but substantial enough to benefit from food. Really nice length on the fruity, spicy finish. 94pts
Monsanto Nemo Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 100% new barrique
Adult candy, that’s what this smells like. It’s got a nice hint of underbrush followed by ripe black currant fruits edged in pencil lead and herbs in a cool, precise register. On the palate this is rich but not unctuous with a seamless fell that carries the dense fruit effortlessly across the palate. The ripe fruit tones are framed with slightly spicy notes of cinnamon and cigar box on the back end. This has exceptional balance, nothing sticks out, there is no excess fat or weight and no sign of the heat of the vintage. It’s still youthful so there is a touch of tannin to resolve and the finish ends with a bit more oak spice than I would like but that should all work itself out in after a year or three in the cellar. While I am not usually a fan of Tuscan Cabernet this ranks among the best of its type. 94pts
Boyd Cantenac 2005
This is just classic Bordeaux. Big and deep on the nose with classic cassis, deep earthy tones and well integrated spice tones from the wood ageing all in harmony. In the mouth there are tons of fuzzy fruit tannins and good acidity supporting a mass of plush ripe fruit. This may lack a touch of Margaux typicity, though that may come with time, but the cassis and wild black raspberry fruit is complemented by lovely notes of earth and mineral with an animale note on the back end that keeps this just a touch sauvage. A bit of refreshing acidity pokes out on the finish which is long and very pure with a touch of wood spice return on the finale. Compelling bordeaux and at great value in this vintage. Bordeaux as it used to be! This should live a long and storied life. 2013-2030 95pts
[PAGEBREAK]Zinfandel
Ravenswood Old Hill Zinfandel 2004
Lovely on the nose with it's array of earthy tones and purple berry fruits. Classic Old Hill in a great vintage. This has all the depth of fruit one could ask for. It's got superb, abundant yet ripe, sweet tannins backing everything up. Just about as good as Zinfandel gets. The depth here is married to phenomenal freshness and focus. 95pts
Howell Mountain Vineyards Zinfandel Beatty Ranch 2005
Intensely dark fruited aromatics greet the nose with a very powerful backdrop of earth, mineral, brambly, and oak tones. Really evolves in the glass revealing notes of dried herb, dried flowers and rocky, shale notes to the pomegranate and grenadine fruit. Shows surprising restraint in the mouth with excellent focus and precision. The acid is bright and the tannins are fine-grained allowing the deep core of dark yet fresh plummy fruit to come to the fore. There is a lurking touch of peach nectar and vanilla but the fruit is accented by expressive spice and soil tones. A well behaved monster of a Zin with the structure and balance to reward cellaring Finishes with good length if a touch clumsy due to the youthful tannins. A bit of buttery wood lingers on the finale. 92pts
Neyers Zinfandel High Valley Vineyards 2006
Fine fruit here with plum tones wrapping up some vanillin and fine French oak, smell expensive and refined. There are nice notes of fudgy chocolate and deep, dark blue and black fruits on the nose with a bit of earth, spice and pencil shavings on the edges. Wow this enters with admirable precision for such a big wine. Very well put together and layered with a cool, composed personality and seductive feel. Nice small, tight berry fruit with notes of spice, and herb breaking up the matteness and a touch of caramelly wood spice but there’s plenty of fruit to stand up to it. This is deep and precise with a sophisticated feel. Claret style Zin at it’s finest. Really nice finish is sneaky with subtle, almost grapy fruit and lovely integration. 93pts
Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards Reserve Century Vines Zinfandel 2005
Very earthy on the nose with great briar tones, woodsy and even a touch feral with a whiff of mushroom adding complexity to the melon rind and pomegranate fruits. There is a lovely campfire note complete with toasted marshmallow. This is so rich in the mouth yet retains elegance due to the fine acidity and superb, ripe and polished tannins. This has the subtle power of old vines and while the red cherry fruit with it’s hint of watermelon may not have the spice or power of many other Zins the depth and jewel-like quality to the fruit is absolutely compelling. The finish offers up a bit spicier and allows the density of the tannins to build but this is just a fabulous bottle of Zinfandel. 94pts
Carol Shelton Zinfandel Rocky Reserve Rockpile Vineyard 2005
Big and fruit bomb nose with intense orange peel and stewy raspberry fruit that is quite complex with tones of vanilla and game accenting the fruit. Gains in the glass adding toasted hazelnut, bitter cocoa and earth, clove tinged baked plum fruits. Surprisingly lean on entry with an intense attack of very spicy fruits and fine herbal top notes. The mid-palate reveals a core of sweet, earthy fruit rich with strawberry and raspberry tones. In a lighter style with lots of polished tannins and while it is a bit lean it really speaks with excellent soil tones. Lacks the chewy weight of many Zins but makes up for it with a fine, elegant feel and remarkably transparent red fruits. 94pts
[PAGEBREAK]Sangiovese
Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2007
Reticent on the nose but obviously deep and layered with slow to emerge jammy, spicy fruit with a nuance of oaky cocoa and a touch of a tarry, very extracted tone. In the mouth this is rich and powerful with ripe, precise fruit that shows fine balance and good mineral cut. With air this gains a lovely black cherry tone with some youthfully chalky tannins that don’t detract from the wine and add length to the finish. 92pts
Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
This has a textbook nose of cherry, mineral, moss, tobacco and leather with woodsy undertones. On the palate this is elegant and silky with rich raspberry fruit touched with subtle hints of earth and herbs. The fruit has a nice crystallized edge to it and wonderful purity and cut finishing with a hint of mint. 92pts
Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
90% Sangiovese/ 10% Canaiolo and Colorino
Aged in Barrique, 25% of which were new.
This is intensely aromatic with a strong rosemary/balsamic note that adds a lovely counterpoint to the red currant and candied red raspberry fruit tones. There are top notes of violet pastille and a whisper of vanilla adding gentle edges to the fruit. On the palate this has the classic rush of Sangiovese acids followed by juicy, wild strawberry fruit flecked with earth, herbs and mineral tones. There’s a slight roast meat savoriness to the mid-palate, with finely textured tannins adding some nice weight to the slightly under-ripe strawberry tones of the back end. This gains a little creaminess on the finish but end with a nice snap. 92pts
Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards Alto Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Sangiovese 2005
This has a great raw character, it’s a bit too woody but the light sour cherry,spice, herb and fruit notes are both intense and distinctive. There is a stoniness that is mouth watering and lovely notes of mushroom and watermelon accents the fruit.
Lean on entry with great acidity and a nice mineral cut to the cherry pie filling fruit. Impressive length and surprisingly complex with herb and spice notes, Perhaps a touch rustic though the good acids and tannins are well balanced, excellent austerity with a zest cherry finish. This has real Sangiovese character though many might want more body and a bit less herbal character. 91pts
Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006
The nose here is a bit on the subtle side with a slightly medicinal edge to the candied blackberry fruit with hints of burnt beef fat. On the palate this offers up crisp tannins in a light, bright, energetic feeling medium bodied wine that is very precisely balanced. The fruit is wonderfully fresh with a wild berry edge that tightens up admirably on the finish yet remains elegant and unforced. It’s light on its feet and holds it’s 14% alcohol effortlessly. Lovely wine. 92pts
[PAGEBREAK]Syrah and Rhone Blends
Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2006
Very fine on the nose with superb purity to the syrah fruit with blackberry, floral/herbal nuance, granitic minerality and a touch of wood. Very well balanced in the mouth with bright red fruits given good thrust by the bright, juicy acids, finishes a bit short and tight at this point with lovely cranberry fruit in a lean, sinewy package. There is good stuffing here but it is tightly wound. 92pts
Château de Beaucastel Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2005
As usual Coudoulet punches well above it's price class! This is so well framed with the assertive structure of 2005 wrapped in a deep flannelly blanket of spicy plum fruits. There are nice mineral, floral and earthen notes here but this is really about wonderfully pure, deep fruit. I love Coudoulet with some age on, I just, regrettably, finished my stash of 1998s which were absolutely singing. In a world where $50 Cheateauneuf have become the norm this remain a serious bargain. 91pts
Qupé Syrah "Bien Nacido" 2006
A distinctively styled Syrah with plenty of peppery notes on the nose as well as hints of grilled meats and crushed autumnal flowers. In the mouth there is a lovely snap to the youthful texture and real depth here. The flavors range from slightly stringent red apple skins to juicier wild red berries but remain rather elegant and particularly fresh with a lovely finish of middle eastern spices and sapwood. This will benefit from several years in the cellar. 93pts
Ojai Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard 2005
funky sweaty leather, intense, earthy, savory escargot, some raw coconutty wood here, boysenberry juice, lots of forest floor. Great complexity with only a subtle fruitiness. Very finely focused in the mouth with lots of soft tannins and finely integrated acids supporting soft, almost grapy, slightly peppery black raspberry fruit. This is rather agile on the palate for such a big wine. This has a slightly raw feel to it and will definitely benefit from another 2-4 years in the bottle. There’s a very attractive herbal note on the back end that contrasts nicely against fruit and the finish is a mélange of apple, pomegranate and boysenberry fruits that are fresh, pure and long with a hint of that sweet/sour jolly ranch character. 93pts
Capel Vale Shiraz Regional South West Australia Margaret River 2005
A wonderfully intriguing nose sets this apart from many Shiraz. There's the typical notes of fruit and spice but underlying it all is a taut floral note and the whole thing is just so well focused and balanced that I keep coming back for another sniff. That focus translates wonderfully to the palate where this achieve a wonderful sense of harmony among the components and lets the very clear blackberry and boysenberry fruit really take center stage. This is just lovely, balanced and with the subtle evolving complexity of a great wine. 94pts
[PAGEBREAK]White Wines
Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2008
What a lovely nose, packed with fresh pineapple, passion fruit and lime tones that are backed with hints of cactus and a whisper of vanilla. There are even emergent notes of red raspberries playing in the mix. Great focus right up front with a rich but linear style that plays off the excellent balance in the mouth. There’s a touch of fresh almond nuttiness right up front then rich flavors of Asian pear, minerals, and apricot croissant that end with a zesty and yet ever so creamy finish. This would be an excellent wine with a holiday roast Turkey but should work exceptionally well with a broad range of foods. 94pts
Belle Pente Pinot Gris Reserve 2006
A wild nose, gorgeous slightly honied fruit nose, yes its hot but so rich with great wax, incense, dried orchard fruits pressed flower and forest floor tones, noticeably sweet with plenty of acid to balance it, deep dried pear and spiced peach tones with honied pineapple nuances on the quite thick and powerful but still elegant, mid-plate with deep honey notes on the backend that dips a bit on the finish but has a nice balsamic toned dried apricot finale. Big rich sweet and delicious, bring on the foie! 94pts
Kick On Riesling 2007
At first a reticent nose, what is here is lightly honeyed, with nice pressed floral tones, very elegant and very retrained, there is some real salty minerality that grows on the nose with emerging notes of petrol, quince paste, dusty stones and a hint of vitamin. Very fine entry, big acids but fairly well integrated, nice finesse in the mouth with some rather subtle but intense mandarin orange, almost quince, mineral and a huge almost salty mineral finish, then some peach pit and lime pith note, absolutely lovely stuff. I wine I want to drink more of. 92pts
Coenobium "Rusticum" 2007
Very big VA right off the bat tbut that is followed by herbs, chalk, leather, roasted chestnut, salty prosciutto tones all over a lovely balsamic base. Bright and crisp in the mouth with nice sprightly tannins up front that are quickly subsumed by the candied, burnt orange rind fruit and biting mineral tones that linger on the exceptionally long finish. Great balance and finesse here with everything in place. 94pts
Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett 2007
Sharp and dusty on the nose this offers up a balanced array of crisp orchard fruits with notes of apple and unripe peach above the base of dusty earth. Sweet and broad on the attack before the lemon and green apple tones burst through in a bolt of crisp, lean freshness. The finish here is focused and very acid driven giving the impression of a zesty, racy wine but one that is brilliant! Offers lovely Kabinettiness! Drink 2009-2016 92pts
Stuhlmuller Vineyards Alexander Valley Estate Chardonnay 2007
A lovely nose with nuanced honey, toasted wood, nutmeat, yellow flowers and dusty earth tone. In the mouth the texture is just fantastic, bright and balanced with intense yet tense and focused mandarin orange, apricot and fig notes that are framed with just a hint of almond and measured oak notes. The finish is fruity, clean and crisp with refreshing acids and a delicacy to the flavors that makes this a winner for geek and novice alike. 93pts
[PAGEBREAK]The Best of the Rest
Moric Neckenmarkter Blaufrankisch 2006
Boy was this beautiful! I loved everything about this wine. Burgundy in Austria! The nose smells like a farmer's hands with a touch of wet earth, a hint of nutty pipe tobacco and rushed black fruits with just an edge of sappy bark. In the mouth this is pure, elegant and refined with a wonderfully fresh fruited, grape/black cherry. black currant fruit is presented in a crisp, tense, perfectly balanced package. Killer wine 93pts
Bodegas Miguel Merino Rioja Reserva 2000
Full and deep on the nose with roast peach, wood spice, leather, game, white truffle and white chocolate tones then with air this gains notes of saw dust, old books, cocoa powder, sweet red licorice, cherry pie, vanilla, beefy, lovely complex and balanced nose. The entry is rich and soft with bright acid driven fruit flavors, layered and juicy with a balsamic edge and dried bark, tea and rosehip notes to the bright cranberry/cherry fruit. Classic interplay of red fruit and vanilla in the mouth, lovely mid weight wine with a really elegant feel and a haunting sweetness to the fruit, finishes with sour cherry, vanilla and café-au-lait tones in balance and with good, bright length. A wonderful wine that is drinking perfectly today. 92pts
Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley 2006
Black cherry, vanilla, tobacco leaf, herbs, earth, and a touch of French oak are all nicely balanced. This is seamless on entry with excellent purity of black cherry fruit. The acidity creeps up on you a little but the fruit is very precise and fresh with lovely suggestions of herb and tomato with fine shadings of cigarbox and cedar. This is refined and elegant with excellent length in a surprisingly fresh and juicy style that really highlights the red fruits. 93pts
Mettler Family Vineyards Petite Sirah 2005
Deep nose has nice notes of crushed currants, spice, tree bark, red currants, earth, clay, and subtle medicinal/menthol tones with a hint of curing tobacco. Big and bright in the mouth with the depth and richness that PS can deliver yet very little fat or flash. This is deep and plush with muscular fruit and ripe tannins. There’s a floral almost rose like note in the mouth with lots of earthy spice framing the black currant and mulberry fruit. Really well balanced particularly since the simplicity and rusticity of PS has not been entirely finessed away. Lovely freshness with a nice licorice/menthol medicinal tone and plenty of milk chocolate notes on the moderately long finish. Embryonic but super stuff even now. 94pts Wine of the night!
Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia 2006
An immediate, intense nose of deep, dark fruit with a muscular disposition that reveals green floral, balsam and spice notes above the coiled fruit. Big and dense in the mouth this will need a bit of time to show well though it is layered and long with exceptional intensity and great acidity that is couched in the chewy fruit. This has the feel of very ripe, perfectly ripe fruit. 2011-2018 92pts
These three wines just offer a glimpse of what I've included in the complete article. So follow this link to read all about my favorite wines of 2009. From Pinot to Cabernet, Blaufrankisch to "Orange Wine", there's something for everyone in my top 40!
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