Dark red fruits

• October 2009

  Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese Karen UlrichIMBIBE NEW YORK Tucked away just south of Mâcon, at the tail end of Burgundy, sits Beaujolais—the oft neglected, yet vigorous region devoted to the red grape Gamay.  Capable of producing... Read moreExperiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese Karen UlrichIMBIBE NEW YORK Tucked away just south of Mâcon, at the tail end of Burgundy, sits Beaujolais—the oft neglected, yet vigorous region devoted to the red grape Gamay.  Capable of producing as much wine a year as the entire region of Burgundy, Beaujolais is typically associated with the November release of its potentially reputation-scaring Beaujolais Nouveau—a light and fruity simple red wine that’s meant to be drunk just months after it’s bottled.  But if this isn’t to one’s liking, one should continue north, with her eyes on the horizon beyond the practices of carbonic maceration, chaptalization (the addition of sugar to increase the alcohol level or abv) and short fermentation; past the rich, cool limestone and clay of Bas Beaujolais, and across the Nizerand River where the soil, landscape, and wine, undergo great change. Here, one will see the flat plains of the south give way to rolling hills of granite schist, where the vines receive more singular attention, and Burgundian-like wine making is practiced.  There are 38 communes classified as Beaujolais-Villages, and ten crus, including—Julienas, Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon, Brouilly and Fleurie.  And while some age-worthy wines are produced in these appellations, these are not the wines around which I created my vegetarian recipes this month.  Since most meatless dishes stem from healthy peasant stock, I chose to harness this spirit by choosing affordable wines ($15 or less) that are suitable to drink and pair with the everyday meal. Why Beaujolais?   It’s a wine that many Americans bring to the Thanksgiving table, just a heartbeat away.  And while the traditional turkey fare of this meal doesn’t interest me, a light bodied, red wine with low tannins and high acidity is a dream to pair in the Vegetarian kitchen. For the recipes I began with a list of vegetarian ingredients that are known to pair well with Beaujolais or Gamay—fennel, onion, leeks, potato, eggs, capers, bell peppers, nuts, pumpkin, salad and cheeses that include cheddar, feta, and Swiss.  And then I uncorked a bottle of 2008 Beaujolais L’Ancien Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees.   It’s an exception from Sud Beaujolais, because Jean-Paul uses natural yeasts, minimal or no chaptalization or filtering, and little sulfites.  When poured, subtle aromas of red cherry—slightly candied—and earth rise from the glass, and when sipped, the red fruits (cherry and cranberry) are wholly integrated with the other elements.  The finish is dry and earthy, and the acidity lingers straight through to the end.  It’s super refreshing, especially when served slightly chilled, at 54-59 degrees.  For this bottle I created a dish of roasted green beans, red onion, feta, and hardboiled eggs, with a dressing of olive oil, lemon, garlic, and coriander and cumin.  It’s a perfect match.  The wine retains its bright fruit and acidity without biting back, while the lemon compliments the wine’s acidity.  And though the pairing is harmonious, there’s a silent display of fireworks that illuminates both fruit and acidity, like a torch in a cave.  On the finish, the wine follows in the footsteps of the suggestive dressing, developing notes of spice. My second pairing failed miserably, both as a recipe and with the wine.  I’ll only mention that it included capers, feta, roasted red peppers, broccoli, and toasted walnuts; and that it didn’t work—it’s a tinny combination that turns the Beaujolais tangy and astringent, like under-ripe fruit. Thankfully, recipe number three—Butternut Mac and Cheese—is delightful, though it took a few attempts to get the oven times, textures, and temperatures right. To download a printable PDF of this recipe please follow this link. Butternut Mac and Cheese 1 medium butternut squash (3 lbs.) 3 tbs. olive oil 2 cups of chopped onions 1 lb. pasta, cooked al dente 2 tbs. butter 1/2 cup whole milk 1/2 cup heavy cream 4 cups grated cheese (I used 3 cheddar and 1 cup brought from Amsterdam by Lee) 1/8 tsp. nutmeg 1 1/2 tbs. salt pepper to taste grated Parmesan cheese Preheat the oven at 450˚, cut butternut squash in half, and place it facedown on an oiled sheet.  Bake for 45 minutes, remove from the oven, let the squash cool, and scoop out the flesh. In a pan, heat 2 tbs. of oil, and cook the onions until they’re sweaty—still a bit firm and crunchy—approximately 5 minutes. Mix the onions in a bowl together with the reserved squash, milk and cream, grated cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Toss the al dente pasta with 2 tbs. of butter and combine this with the mix. Pour into an ungreased 9x11 (or 9x13) pan and bake uncovered for 15 minutes at 400˚.  Serve hot. The end result is creamy with contrasting flavors—the sweet and salty earth of the squash; the onions, slightly firm and candied, pop against a background of creamy savory cheese—it’s hearty and healthy, whether eaten alone or with a salad of baby greens and mustard vinaigrette dressing.  The first time I prepared this dish, I paired it with 2008 Beaujolais-Villages La Lutine Domaine Des Terres Vivantes—a wine with smoky minerality and a petticoat of cherry.  It’s silky, and slightly floral with fruit that lingers on the finish; and as the wind blew through my window, wafts of fruit rose from the glass that sat on the table beside me.  I love the minerality on the nose, and when paired with the first round of Butternut Mac and Cheese, La Lutine compliments the squash, rendering it sweet and fruity.  The sweaty onions are lively and the cherry flavors in the wine are highlighted against a backdrop of cheddar cheese.  The pairing is like two new lovers walking hand in hand beneath a canopy of fall colored leaves; the couple not yet wholly integrated after years in each other’s company—each maintaining harmonious but separate identities. For the second round, I opened a bottle of 2007 Château du Chatelard Beaujolais-Villages Vielles Vignes—a more mature Beaujolais, both in age and texture.  Here, one finds dark cherries sprinkled on a damp forest floor.  While the acidity is not electric, it’s enough to keep the rustic tannins in check.  Near the finish, the fruit goes back in time, to appear—if only for a moment—once again young.  And while I enjoy but do not love the wine on it’s own, it pairs perfectly with the Butternut Mac and Cheese. As with the last bottle, the wine accentuates the sweetness of the dish.  The tannins that once seemed somewhat out of place, are replaced with clove spice; and the earthy elements of the wine now have a role with purpose.  The onions, squash, and nutmeg are earthy and sweet, and the wine compliments these notes returning in kind, a love letter stamped with earth and fruit.     (hide)

  From the article Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese

  
  

• October 2009

  Five Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share... Read moreFive Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share a few glass here in New York. Preceding dinner was an in-store tasting at New York’s Chambers Street wines where I was able to revisit the 2007 Bianco and 2006 Barbera d’Alba that I had previously tasted in the cellars. For those of you not familiar with Oddero it’s a historic Cantina of La Morra, in Piemonte, yet produced wines from many of the villages that constitute Barolo. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, though their base Barolo is quite fruity and they even produce a Cabernet Sauvignon based wine called Fureste: The foreigner in the local vernacular. The real stars of the Oddero line-up are the single vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco. These are beautiful wines that may not be terrible expressive in their youth but blossom wonderfully with age. These earlier vintages are testament to the quality of the vineyards, coming from the family’s holdings in La Morra and Castiglione that are now bottled as Cru wines.   For more information on the wines of Oddero please see the previously published : A Killer Visit with Oddero     2007 Langhe Bianco Fruity on the nose with floral tones and pear fruit. Huge acids in the mouth give this great cut with a faceted quality to the mineral laden white fruits. This is assertively mineral on the backend and into the long finish.  89pts 2006 Barbera d’Alba Sweet and sour fruits on the nose are uncomplicated yet pure and bright. The classic Barbera acidity keeps this bright and zesty on the palate as well with a clear, slightly bitter black cherry tone and nice accents of tar, earth and violet than add nice length on the finish. 88pts 1961 Barolo A bit high toned on the nose and showing some volatility yet very aromatic with leafy tones of tobacco some sweet medicinal notes and a lovely array of assertive truffle and sweet angelica root tones. There’s a touch of teriyaki that emerges with air as well. While this retains a nice tannic bite it is fairly well resolved with a clear quality in the mouth that allows the bright sweet/sour cranberry tones to take center stage with hints of licorice and tar adding some detail around the edges. The fruit is fading a bit and doesn’t have great persistence in the mouth with a limestone mineral note taking over on the moderately long finish.  A very enjoyable,, fully mature bottle of Barolo. 92pts 1967 Barolo This starts off bit funky on the nose transitioning from the barnyard to a leathery, seaweed flecked bouquet that exhibits some classic mint and truffle tones before surrendering to a deep beef bouillon, dried onion and allspice tone. In the mouth this still has some flesh, which is well balanced by the relatively soft structure that remains. It gains more richness as it sits in the glass and the sweet edge of maderization gives an impression of sweetness to the cranberry/rhubarb fruit. There is a nice spice element that adds to the moderately long finish and a touch of burnished orange peel on the finale. The palate is fresher than the nose here but if this bottle is indicative these should be consumed sooner rather than later. 88pts 1970 Barolo The aromatics here present quite a contrast with a fresh, crisp celery note intertwined in the sweet black cherry core of fruit. There are hints of sweet tea, veal stock and fresh shitakes adding complexity but there is also a touch of rum on the nose that is a little off-putting. On the palate this is large scaled if soft with a wonderfully plush texture to the cherry and rhubarb fruit with hints of tar and subtle spice tones drawing out the moderately long finish. 90pts 1971 Barolo The cork on this bottle was pristine and the condition of the wine was exceptional. Such a deep color and such reticence on the nose that one would be forgiven thinking this was decades younger. The nose opens with a huge fresh celery note that is slowly subsumed by wonderfully sweet and fresh black currant and black cherry fruit tones.  With air the nuances of coffee, cigarette ash and burnt raisin tones add their detail to the bouquet though a touch of volatility does emerge, adding lift but also a bit of glue to the nose. In the mouth this is elegant with superb balance. The ripe, round tannins remain well concealed in a plush core of fruit. The lovely mouthfeel is complimented by the earthy floral tones and bitter cherry fruit the wine retains but the finish does reveal a bit of heat and the tannins gain a slight powdery edge with time in the glass. This is filled with fruit yet it lacks a touch a detail. It may very well continue to improve in the bottle. 91pts 1974 Barolo This really has a lovely fruity quality on the nose with a lightness and brightness that still makes this smell quite youthful. There are nice notes of dandelion, pigskin, dry earth and licorice that add nice detail to the fresh black cherry fruit. In the mouth this has such purity and real finesse. It is clean and polished with a great core of mineral tinged black cherry fruit, superb length and a sleek, refreshing feel. It is elegant; a touch simple and perhaps even delicate by Barolo standards but is pure joy to drink. Each note is so precise and clear here that you don’t need any more complexity to be completely satisfied. 94pts 1978 Barolo Reticent on the nose yet evolving rich hints of macerated flowers, sandalwood, tar and wet animal fur in the glass. This is continues to be decidedly matte feeling with plenty of fleshy fruit backed up by rich, slightly chewy tannins. The fruit is dark with earthy, leathery tones and excellent length but this still has a touch of an undeveloped feel. It’s rich and lusty if a touch rustic and may remain so. 92pts 1989 Barolo Vigna Rionda The aromatic on this are superbly layered and still very fruity with hints of iron, smoke, smoldering herbs and dusty earth embedded in sweet notes of cherry, candied strawberry and strawberry and cream fruit tones. In the mouth the tannins remain ripe yet rigid giving the mouth an excellent, precise feel. This is rich and powerful and the fruit is just beginning to yield the stage to the emerging tertiary notes but remains wonderfully youthful. 93pts 2001 Barolo Mondoca di Bussia Soprana The nose combines very fruity and intense notes of candied black raspberry fruit and cactus leaves with hints of cigarette smoke, clove and vanilla giving this a bit of a modern appearance. Big, rich and chewy in the mouth with big tannins and a dark core of confiture of black fruits. There are nuanced of espresso foam, licorice and backing spices adding accent notes on the long finish but this is still very youthful and showing lots of baby fat. 92pts 2004 Barolo Spicy on the nose, with jammy red currant fruits and a touch of carob. Lovely fresh tannins and rich fruit give this a soft, round feel with ripe wild cherry and boysenberry fruit that is fresh and intense if a bit simple and dilute on the finish. A fine Basic Barolo 88pts 2004 Barolo Villero A real step up in refinement over the base Barolo with red fruits on the nose accented with clay soil tones rose petals, sweet sassafras, spicy savory tones and a liquory black fruit top note. This offers up a really layered and complex. Set of aromatics.  Deceptively soft at first, the wine snaps together on the mid-palate with well-balanced, crisp, faceted tannins and prominent yet integrated acids framing the bitter cherry fruit. There are lovely herbal, medicinal tones that draw out the inner core of sweetness of the fruit and add resonance on the long finish. A very promising wine but one that is best left alone for a decade. 91pts    (hide)

  From the article Isabella Oddero Visits New York

  
  

• October 2009

  The Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the... Read moreThe Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the village of Verduno. Monvigliero is the pinnacle of their craft, but the more approachable Neirane, also from Verduno, serves as a great introduction to both the house style and the alluringly different wines of Verduno. In addition to these two, rather unique olive and herb scented wines, Burlotto also produces an exemplary Barolo Cannubi as well as a full range of other red varieties. This evening I was more interested in the four wines in front of me, the 1995 Monvigliero and Neirane, as well as the 1996 Cannubi and Neriane. Each bottle performed splendidly, expressing not only the vintages character, but also the terroir of each vineyard beautifully. These are wines that can be deceptive in their youth, seemingly lean and sometimes more savory than fruity but with time their inner beauty is revealed. The balance and freshness of Burlotto Barolo, in fact all of their wines, is a testament not only to the traditional ways of wine production, but also to the care and attention the family focuses on each step in the winemaking process. These may not be wines for everyone, but their natural transparency and pure expression of terroir strike a chord with me and I urge anyone with an interest in Piedmontese wines to sample a few. Don’t be too quick to judge the wines of Burlotto though. Like all the best of Piemonte, they take a bit of time to  open up and reveal themselves but once they do you can’t help but love their honesty, generosity and authenticity.   For more information on Burlotto, the wines and techniques involved please see: Step back in time with Commendatore G.B. Burlotto   1995 Burlotto Barolo Neirane This opens like a remarkable example of Cote Rotie with notes of olives, flowers, red raspberry fruit and an undertone of dried strawberry. With air notes of tar and tobacco emerge and add complexity. In the mouth this is somewhat small scaled but with great focus in a smooth, medium full bodies style with supple wild cherry fruit and light spice tones on the mid-palate that yield to notes of citron and strawberry on the finish. A very fine bottle at maturity with a balanced yet fleshy feel 91pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Neirane The bright aromatic of this wine are full of heather, licorice, smoke, olive brine and menthol notes but the fruit is still a bit reticent. In the mouth one finds superbly fine-grained tannins that are powerful but balanced by notes of white clay, leather and incipient dark raspberry fruits. This offers beautiful precision but remains a bit tight and coy on the palate. I like where this is going though and the aromatics hint that we are almost there.. 92pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Simply wonderful aromatics that ranged from lilacs, to seared cherry, hot rocks, to roses, orange peel, earth and spice all around a core of sweet red fruit. In the mouth there is superb balance with succulent mineral notes and clear, if fairly rich and quite tannic, faceted fruit. The fruit grows in the glass revealing exceptional intensity and purity with significant upside potential. 93pts   1995 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Intense notes of incense and candlewax immediately emerge from the glass joined by dark, smoky, slightly jammy fruits with complicating notes of fish sauce, underbrush, tapenade, thyme and olive oil. In the mouth he tannins are delicate and light if abundant giving the wine a velvety texture. The rosehip and wild cherry fruit is framed by vitamin like mineral notes and a wonderful inner mouth perfume of roses and tapenade. Still youthful this is emerging from its shell and has a very promising future. 93pts.   Below are notes on wines I tasted with winemaker Fabio Alessandria  this past May. Many are just now arriving in the marketplace. 2008 Burlotto Pelaverga Aromatics are intense and deep with penetrating, minerally focus that carries over to the palate. Cranberry fruit on the palate is paired with the intense minerality giving this a downright steely quality but it does lack some of the intensity of the 2007. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Barbera d’Alba Huge, soaring aromatics are captured here with note of cold earth, pollen, wild animale notes and slightly spicy notes of black-fruited hard candy. In the mouth this is perfectly proportioned with deep, lively fruit a hint of round tannin and snappy acids. The finish is dominated by the acids but with excellent length and reverb. Super Barbera. 90pts 2007 Burlotto Freisa Lightly smoky on the nose with an exotic boysenberry coulis note that is countered by dark aromatic spice roots and a hint of leafy geranium. The mouthfeel is both transparent and mouthcoating with a hint of bitterness on the mid-palate. The tannins are pretty big but ripe enough that they already begin to melt away on the finish, which is tarry and spiced with floral tones that compliment the dark plummy red fruits. This is better on the nose at this point. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Nebbiolo Fresh and herbal on the nose with a sandy underlay and suggestions of briary wood and wildflowers adding detail. Huge acidity in the mouth is followed by a wave of fruit and perfectly ripe tannins. The midpalate is laced with minerality that adds cut and definition to the wild cherry and watermelon fruit that gains some pomegranate depth on the back end. This finishes strongly with excellent length and an almost salty, mineral finale. 90pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi Balsamic on the nose with complex aromas of church candle, bay leaf, chalk and wild berry fruits. Nervous with fine-grained tannins in the mouth that frame slightly spice sweet red fruit notes. The feel is wonderfully fresh in the mouth and strikingly transparent though one could wish for a bit more richness to the fruit.  89pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Leathery and slightly bretty on the nose with a deep gamy element that contrasts against the sweet dark fruits of the nose Notes of olive brine, mortadella and carnations emerge from the glass with air. Soft and suave in the mouth with a rich core of spiced fruit supported by great acids that keep this taut and tense. Great camphor tinged cherry fruit in the mouth conceals a bed of ripe tannins. A very well balanced 2005. 93pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Deep and dark on the nose with fruit, heather, dried grass and hints of grilled meats, cinnamon and green anise seed adding great detail. In the mouth this is very classic Barolo with clear acids and assertive if polished tannins supporting the slightly leathery, bright amarena cherry tinged fruit. Fine balance and great length but this is really a bit tight at this point 91pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi A lovely nose of floral tones with savory hints of oregano, olive oil and sundried tomato. In the mouth his is sapid and round with soft tannins and sweet fruit on the palate with hints of fresh green herbs adding detail. The wine is still very tight but well balanced with strawberry fruits and fine, well proportioned structure.  88-90pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Wonderfully aromatic already with precise raspberry fruit framed by hints of campfire, saffron, baked clay and a slight underbrush tone. In the mouth thios is crystal clear with a lean yet very precise feel to the candied red raspberry flavors. The structure is very finely balanced and the tannins are perfectly ripe leading to a fine, long taut finish. An excellent wine in the making 91-94pts      (hide)

  From the article A dinner with the wines of Burlotto

  
  

• October 2009

  It was a friends and family day - I wasn't taking notes beyond what was in my ... concentrated and dense dark red fruits, spice, and a strong tannic structure. I don't think there is a better wine to pair with a wide range of Tuscan food - especially roast pork, Crostini Toscano, or... Read moreIt was a friends and family day - I wasn't taking notes beyond what was in my ... concentrated and dense dark red fruits, spice, and a strong tannic structure. I don't think there is a better wine to pair with a wide range of Tuscan food - especially roast pork, Crostini Toscano, or local cheeses. I also had fun talking with Renzo Marinai who was working his own booth. He told me that he likes to play music in his cantina - Mozart and Beethoven, etc. because it is good for the wine - that the wine is alive and it needs to live. And he had a very interesting white wine - a blend of malvasia, trebbiano, and chardonnay that goes straight from stainless to bottle. It was probably the surprise of the day for us. I'll leave a review when we drink one of the bottles we bought    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Vino al Vino, Panzano in Chianti by afinta

  
  

• October 2009

  It was a family and friends day - I wasn't taking notes beyond this: Between ... concentrated and dense dark red fruits, spice, and a strong tannic structure. I don't think there is a better wine to pair with a wide range of Tuscan food - especially roast pork, Crostini Toscano, or... Read moreIt was a family and friends day - I wasn't taking notes beyond this: Between ... concentrated and dense dark red fruits, spice, and a strong tannic structure. I don't think there is a better wine to pair with a wide range of Tuscan food - especially roast pork, Crostini Toscano, or local cheeses. I also had fun talking with Renzo Marinai who was working his own booth. He told me that he likes to play music in his cantina - Mozart and Beethoven, etc. because it is good for the wine - that the wine is alive and it needs to live. And he had a very interesting white wine - a blend of malvasia, trebbiano, and chardonnay that goes straight from stainless to bottle. It was probably the surprise of the day for us. I'll leave a review when we drink one of the bottles we bought    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Vino al Vino, Panzano in Chianti by afinta

  
  

• October 2009

  Poultry and red wine, but which wine? Pinot Noir to the rescue Eric Guido is back this week with a great recipe for Roast Chicken. Long considered the dish to judge a chef by, the simplicity of a Roast Chicken demands attention to detail and a fine... Read more Poultry and red wine, but which wine? Pinot Noir to the rescue Eric Guido is back this week with a great recipe for Roast Chicken. Long considered the dish to judge a chef by, the simplicity of a Roast Chicken demands attention to detail and a fine understanding of technique. Eric lays out each step of the preparation and technique to ensure that your bird is moist, tender and flavorful. Pinot Noir is a classic match for roast poultry. Eric matches his recipe with a terrific example from the Sonoma Coast. Benefitting from the cooling effects of the Pacific Ocean, the Sonoma Coast is home to some of California’s most compelling examples of this fickle grape. His choice of the A. P. Vin Kanzler Vineyard is  wonderful, and works with the dish beautifully, but it is a rare bottle, and not inexpensive. We’ve selected two great examples of Pinot Noir to pair with Eric’s Roast Chicken, one from the Sonoma Coast and another from Northern Italy that should match up perfectly to the flavors and textures of the dish. To read Eric's article and recipe click here. What to expect: Pinot Noir Responsible for some of the greatest wines on earth, the exhaulted red wines of France's Burgundy region, Pinot Noir is a notoriously fickle grape that expresses it's origins like no other. It's a vine that needs to struggle to produce great wines, but when it does the depth of flavors that range from cherry to cola can be explosive. The wine's bright acidity and gentle tannins make it very approachable, giving it broad appeal. Find more affordable Pinot Noir Two Great Examples of Pinot Noir 2005 Macmurray Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Priced from $19.29 With light oak and toast notes on the nose this starts off on the dark side but adds nice cherry pie fruit tones on the palate that are soft and supple. With a touch of vanilla and baking spice adding complexity on the backend. 2007 Hofstatter Pinot Noir Meczan Priced from $19.99 This just smells lovely, full of forest floor, tea and earth notes that gently frame the fruit. In the mouth it's bright and linear with a soft, fleshy core of red fruits that gain complexity on the finish with notes of incense, stems and tree bark.    (hide)

  From the article Pairing food and wine: Roast Chicken and Pinot Noir

  
  

• September 2009

  Well it is done. Snooth’s Blind Tasting Challenge has come and gone. I just wanted to thank everyone who came and participated. I thought it was great fun with some clunkers, some good wines, and a few excellent wines.... Read moreWell it is done. Snooth’s Blind Tasting Challenge has come and gone. I just wanted to thank everyone who came and participated. I thought it was great fun with some clunkers, some good wines, and a few excellent wines. !http://designshop.snooth.com/merchandising/images/DSCN1625.jpg! There really was a bit of a break between the wines I had planned and what we ended up opening. The RSVP system for the event was a bit, shall we say, underutilized so I was not sure how many people were to join us. Rather than open a tone of wine and watch it go to waste I opted to pull and prepare 6 bottles and then fill in as necessary. With a full crowd of 16 people including myself, and some 3 hours to fill we ended up opening a complete second round of wines. Some brief impressions with a few guesses follows. Thanks to everyone for joining in and making this a great way to spend a cool and wet Sunday afternoon! !http://designshop.snooth.com/merchandising/images/DSCN1613.jpg! The Lineup 2006 Erste & Neue Barleit Moscato Giallo - We started off with this floral, citrussy wine and guesses were all over the place, though some close comments included an Italian white from Friuli, a Kerner, and a Gewurtz-chardonnay blend. http://www.snooth.com/wine/erste-and-neue-barleit-moscato-giallo-2006/ 2007 Nobos Monterey Chardonnay - This was obviously Chardonnay and all were in agreement though guesses about origins ranged from Oregon, to Long Island and the South of France. No one thought this rather lean Chardonnay was from California though it was firmly New World in style http://www.snooth.com/wine/nobos-chardonnay-2007/ 1975 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Riserva - With it’s pale, amber toned color and classic aged aromatics of tobacco, autumnal leaves, and light red fruits most folks had this pegged as something old from either Burgundy or Rioja. http://www.snooth.com/wine/bodegas-riojanas-rioja-monte-real-gran-reserva-1975/ 2006 Goldeneye Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - This was rather acidic for Pinot Noir with soft tannins and fairly gentle fruit so guesses ranged around to New World Grenache, Oregon Pinot Noir, and even cheap Spanish wine. http://www.snooth.com/wine/goldeneye-anderson-valley-pinot-noir-2006-4/ 2000 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux - This fairly screamed out Bordeaux with its green bell pepper and oak influenced notes. An unusually soft bottle that threw folks for a loop as almost everyone thought this was a cheap example from a middling vintage, 2004 or 2007! http://www.snooth.com/wine/pavillon-rouge-du-chateau-margaux-margaux-2000/ 2006 Holdredge Alexander Valley Zinfandel - Half the room had this pegged as Zinfandel pretty quickly, the other half was unsure due to the light touch Holdredge has. Some Spanish varietals were bandied about and a guess or two placed this in Australia. http://www.snooth.com/wine/holdredge-zinfandel-alexander-valley-2006/ !http://designshop.snooth.com/merchandising/images/DSCN1615.jpg! 2008 Gascon Malbec Mendoza Argentina, - This was a very popular wine with virtually everyone enjoying it’s rich, polished character. Some folks considered Malbec but the overwhelming Sentiment was that this was Shiraz, very likely from Australia. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gascon-malbec-2008/ 2006 Berryessa Gap Yolo County Tempranillo - This was a bit dirty and a bit soft with somewhat indistinct character and no one was particular confident in any guess that was made for this. Certainly no one guessed Tempranillo from California! http://www.snooth.com/wine/berryessa-gap-yolo-county-tempranillo-2006/ 2007 Broc Cellars Vine Starr Red - This was another really big, rich wine and had many people thinking Syrah, which is partially correct since Syrah forms part of this blend but no one singled out the Zinfandel that makes up most of this. A few guesses did consider a Grenache based blend. http://www.snooth.com/wine/broc-cellars-vine-starr-red-blend-california-2007-1/ 2007 Robert Mondavi Special Selection Syrah - With its lean texture and very elevated acidity some guessed that this might have been Sangiovese, which is a pretty good guess. Not a distinctive wine, it’s another one that really was unguessable though someone suggested it’s a bit like a California Pinot enhanced with Syrah, which I thought, was an excellent guess. http://www.snooth.com/wine/robert-mondavi-winery-syrah-private-selection-2007/ 1985 Barale Rabaja Riserva Barbaresco - This was a striking contrast to the wines that came before with it’s dark, bricky color, tarry and licorice scented nose and still somewhat gritty tannins. Many guesses were floating around in Italy with one guess that it was an aged Barbaresco! http://www.snooth.com/wine/barale-f-lli-barbaresco-rabaja-riserva-1985/ 2008 Domaine des Caves du Prieuré Sancerre - To conclude, and as a palate freshener, we had this lovely bottle of Sancerre. With electric acidity it did indeed refresh the palate but while a few pegged this as Sauvignon Blanc, many were all over the map, perhaps due to palate fatigue! http://www.snooth.com/wine/sancerre-domaine-des-caves-du-prieure-2008/ !http://designshop.snooth.com/merchandising/images/DSCN1616.jpg! And that was it. An interesting line-up with some surprises. Certainly the Goldeneye and Pavillon Rouge underperformed while the Gascon Malbec and Holdredge Zinfandel were delicious and among the less expensive of the tasting. I hope everyone had as much fun as I did and I look forward to doing this again! !http://designshop.snooth.com/merchandising/images/DSCN1596.jpg!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Snooth's Blind tasting... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• September 2009

  Wine Guerrilla: Defender of Old Vine Zinfandel Wine Guerilla is a specialist operation run by Bruce Patch, who is intent on sourcing great fruit from some of Sonoma’s best vineyard sites to create wines that are true to their origins and that express the... Read more Wine Guerrilla: Defender of Old Vine Zinfandel Wine Guerilla is a specialist operation run by Bruce Patch, who is intent on sourcing great fruit from some of Sonoma’s best vineyard sites to create wines that are true to their origins and that express the intensity and richness that Zinfandel is famous for.The wines are made at the Coffaro Winery and benefit from the decades of experience that the winemaking team of David Coffaro, Bruce Patch and Matt Wilson bring to the sorting table. Wine Guerrilla’s style is to try and capture the forward fruit Zinfandel is famous for without obscuring the subtle character that each vineyard contributes. Drawing on a variety of appellations and sites throughout Sonoma County allows Wine Guerrilla to offer a significant range of styles. In keeping with the traditions of Old Vine Zinfandel production, and in an effort to accentuate some of the trademark characteristics of each site, each wine is blended with varying amounts of other grape varieties. The Forchini Russian River, for example, gains muscular spice and tannin from the 17% of Petite Sirah in the blend, while the Goat Trek, with 7% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petite Sirah ends up with a more assertive bramble note and just the right balance of tannin. While the Wine Guerilla wines are aged in oak, to help soften a few sharp edges and allow the wine to integrate, they see very little new oak. In fact the fist new barrels used were introduced with the 2008 vintage and represent a tiny percentage of the total, 8 out of 150 barrels. With so little oak influence these wines have a chance to express their terroir like few others. 2007: A Vintage of Strength and Distinction 2007 was a Zinfandel lovers vintage with brilliant wines coming from much of California, but nowhere were the wines as strong as in Sonoma County. The cooler growing season produced wines with lower alcohol and slightly higher acids than usual. A winning combination. 2007 Sonoma County Zinfandel 14.6% $18.00 Just lovely in the mouth, bright wild berry fruits are nicely red and have that slight vegetal/floral edge adding complexity and snap to the cranberry fruit on the backend that leads to a refreshing, transparent finish. This is delicious. The Dry Creek Valley is Famous for Zinfandel One of the greatest sources for old vine Zinfandel in California,  Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel is famous for its distinct black fruits and gentle spice tones. 2007 Goat Trek Vineyards Block 6 Dry Creek Valley Zinfadnel 15.5% $25.00 Almost seamless with the acid and tannins just poking through the tobacco tinged black plum and blackberry toned fruit. There’s a nice richness to the wine with it’s slightly chewy texture and a slightly creamy, mocha tinged quality on the back end that leads to a dark, muscular feeling finish. The Russian River Valley, not just great Pinot With it's extended growing season, the Russian river valley is well known for rich, plush boysenberry fruited Zinfandels. A dollop of Petite Sirah can add some spice and structure helping to support all of that fruit. 2007 Forchini Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel 15.4% $35.00 Bright and chewy in the mouth with a slinky, silky feel. Lovely balance and texture to this wine with an earthy core of boysenberry and wild blackberry fruit that leads to a spicy, earthy, slightly licorice tinged finish that features a return of the sweet/sour elements of the fruit, yet with a peppery finale. Other Wine Guerrilla wines that I recently reviewed. Forchini Vineyards 'Old Vine' Dry Creek Valley 2007 Deep, earthy, brownie, a touch malty with dusty earth and rosebush accents to the liquory, orange oil accented raspberry fruit. There’s even a small floral element at play here. Seamless, a touch soft perhaps but this really has a bit of elegance in the mouth with those same orange oil and floral nuances contributing some depth to the black raspberry fruit in the mouth. Really hold its alcohol well though the finish is a bit short. 89pts Wine Guerilla Two Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2006 Red fruit, tar and licorice on the nose, with an underlying sweet raspberry tone and nice earthy spiciness are well balanced. Soft tannins and good acidity in a relatively medium weight frame help support nice wild raspberry and wild cherry fruit. This is definitely red fruited and quite fresh in the mouth if a touch simple though the fruit and spice follow through well on the decent length finish that offers up a touch of candied apple. 87pts These are wines that are intended to be enjoyed and shared among friends. All of the wines are finished in screwtops, insuring easy access to the juice in the bottle, whether at home or away The labels are sure to catch the eye, which might be a story in and of itself. In fact they were. There were news storied written about the labels before the wines had even been released!    (hide)

  From the article Wine Guerrilla

  
  

• August 2009

  Benziger – Making a difference one vine at a time. When you visit the Benziger Estate vineyards you know something special is going on. The sight of so many vineyard blocks carefully eased into each contour of this beautiful slice of Sonoma Valley, just west of the hamlet of Glen... Read moreBenziger - Making a difference one vine at a time. When you visit the Benziger Estate vineyards you know something special is going on. The sight of so many vineyard blocks carefully eased into each contour of this beautiful slice of Sonoma Valley, just west of the hamlet of Glen Ellen, is only the first indication of how much thought and care is going into the cultivation of these grapes. What sets Benziger apart? Family Owned There is one simple reason for all this care and deliberation: Benziger remains a family owned and operated winery. From the first day Mike and Mary Benziger drove up London Ranch Road and discovered the overgrown land that was to be transformed into the Benziger Estate on Sonoma Mountain, to the present day, the family has remained intimately involved with the day-to-day operations of the winery. The fact is that three generations of Benzigers have worked to make the winery what it is today. The youngest, embodied by Mike and Mary’s daughter Erinn, is as determined as any to continue to curate this land to ensure that future generations are able to enjoy the natural beauty of Sonoma Mountain and make wines that will live up to the proud reputation that the currant generations have established for the Benziger Family Winery. Biodynamic Farming Mike Benziger was one of the pioneering winemakers in California’s biodynamic movement. Biodynamics is a philosophy that treats all parts of an agricultural enterprise like elements of a single living, breathing entity. The theory posits that by fostering the health of the environment one can increase the vibrancy and quality of the production of that environment. In many ways a return to a simpler, more intuitive style of farming that abandons much of the commercial “progress” of the past century in favor of traditional methods that deliver unique, site-specific flavors, and more importantly, are sustainable. Gone, for example, are the monoculture vineyards, replaced by vines inter-planted with species that foster the development of vibrant populations of beneficial, predatory animals. These outposts are linked via pathways to allow these animals free access to all of the estate. Simple changes such as the re-introduction of these natural predators can have profound effects on the landscape that extends beyond the immediate benefits of crop diversification. To help further attract these beneficial predators, owl boxes and bat houses where placed within these oasis creating wildlife sanctuaries. The combined effect of harnessing these symbiotic animals and their ferocious appetite was the elimination of commercial pesticides, yet another tenet of Biodynamics. Adhering to the principles of Biodynamics requires the elimination of commercial fertilizers. The Benzigers use composted materials from the farm, grape canes from annual pruning, pomace from the previous years harvest, as well as manure from the farm’s goats and cattle, to replace nutrients that have pulled from the ground. This effort to “close the loop” extends to the estate’s water management system as well. Waste water from the wineries operations is captured and feed through a series of reclamation ponds were the water is filtered so that it can be used for irrigation, lowering the impact the winery makes on it’s surrounding. While much of Biodynamics is focused on maintaining the health of the estate as a distinct entity, the Benziger family is well aware of the impact they may have on the world around them and are working to limit that impact. While much of the fruit used to produce Benziger wines comes from the Estate, the family also relies on contract growers to supply fruit. In an effort to extend their impact beyond the confines of the Sonoma Mountain Estate the Benziger family has helped myriad growers move away from commercial farming techniques by incentivizing a switch to less impactful farming methods. Sustainable and Organic Benziger encourages its partner growers to move gradually from commercial farming to sustainable farming through a program they call Farming for Flavors™. The hope and goal is that each grower will eventually adopt the ever more stringent rules of organic and ultimately biodynamic farming. While the environmental impact is always at the forefront of these efforts, the simple fact is that the quality of the fruit improves as growers move away from commercial techniques. That exceptional grape quality makes the effort profitable, thus attracting and motivating growers to participate in the program. While this may extend beyond the recognized principles of Biodynamics, the effort to move people away from chemical pesticides and commercial fertilizers embodies the spirit of Biodynamics and illustrates the commitment the family has to the impact their winemaking leaves on the world around them. Winemaking plays its part The Benziger philosophy starts, not surprisingly, in the vineyards. Their faith in Biodynamics not only represents their belief that it is better for the soil, but also their belief that as a farming system it produces better, more site specific wines. They strive to capture this specificity, or terroir as it is frequently referred to, by practicing a low impact form of winemaking that begins among the vines. Grapes are harvested early in the day while still cool, and sorted before being crushed. Each block of the vineyard is fermented separately and with it’s own natural yeasts, a further allowing each site to fully express its unique traits. These individual lots are then aged and eventually blended to produce the wines that define the Benziger Estate style: Bold yet balanced, complex and elegant expressions of a people, a place and a time captured and to be shared with friends and, above all, family. Great Wines, Better pricing I was fortunate to be able to spend some time at Benziger during my recent visit to Sonoma, and got the opportunity to taste through several of their wines with winemaker Rodrigo Soto. Rodrigo is a recent addition to the Benziger team charged with further developing their Farming for Flavors™ program. His passion for wine was as obvious as his commitment to improving the program that has established Benziger as a leader in the return to intelligent, sustainable, low impact farming. If you are not familiar with Benziger this is your chance to get to know them. They should not only be admired for their efforts at improving the health of their vineyards, and the world around them, but also for the wines they produce. For a limited time they are extending fantastic discounts to Snooth members. I urge you to take advantage of this compelling offer. As a further incentive Benziger will upgrade your shipping from ground to 2nd day air when you buy a case of wines, 12 bottles solid or mixed. This deal expires Saturday, September 26, 2009 so make sure and get your order in before then and enjoy great saving and that free upgrade to 2nd day air shipping. It’s a deal that can’t be beat! 2005 Benziger Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Normally: $49.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $24.50 Distinctly ripe on the nose with a light overlay of subtle oak and spicy, licorice nuances. This is full bodied and chunky in the mouth with a jammy, blackberry core and light notes of vanilla and cedary spice adding complexity. 89pts View Details 2006 San Remo Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Normally: $49.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $34.00 With lovely red fruits on the nose edged with cola, balsamic and dried meat tones this is open knit and attractively perfumed. Very fresh in the mouth with a soft texture that is so perfectly balanced by the slightly candied cranberry fruit tones that this fairly slides down the throat. There are nice nuances of sassafras and Mexican chocolate spice tones on the finish. This is perfect for current consumption and while it may not be the biggest, baddest Pinot on the block it makes up for it by being a simply delicious and fresh bottle. 91pts View Details 2005 Benziger 'Oonapais' Estate Sonoma Mountain Red, Sonoma Mountain Normally: $50.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $30.00 Initially revealing subtle smoky scents over sweet, dark, earthy fruit lightly threaded with woodspice, green herb, and seaweed tones this gains intensity that follows through on the palate. Big and polished in the mouth with a deep, velvety texture that features well-integrated acids contributing volume in the mouth. Rich and very fruity with notes of coffee, pine, and earth framing the dark wild berry fruits that lead to a great, mouthwatering finish full of dark cherry flavors and edged with cedar and spicy peppery nuances. This is a great value. It includes some of the wine that was intended to be part of Benziger’s top of the line bottling, Tribute, but just didn’t make the final cut. Already drinking very well this has definite upside potential over the next 3-5 years. 93pts View Details 2006 Benziger 'Obsidian Point' Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain Normally: $65.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $49.00 Clear and high toned aromatics greet the nose with well integrated oak tones juxtaposed against complex green coffee bean, herb, cocoa tones with a light suggest of underbrush. This is seamless in the mouth with superb ripe tannins and plenty of acidity to add brightness to the dark, spicy fruit on the palate. The purity of the black currant fruit is admirable with a really well defined mineral note that powers through the back end and leads to a tapering, long finish. This is wonderfully balanced and really transparent if a little tight at this point. Better to leave this for 2-3 years allowing it to blossom and fulfill all it’s potential. 94pts View Details   Summer Shipping Alert Due to warm weather across the nation, Benziger will upgrade all orders of 12 bottles or more to 2-Day Air shipping for no extra charge. (Except orders within Calif.) Also while the warm weather persists, Benziger will only ship wines on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Benziger ships to the following states: AK, CA, CO, DC, FL, GA, HI, IA, ID, IL, KS, MN, MO, NC, ND, NE, NH, NM, NV, NY, OR, SC, TX, VA, VT, WA, WI, WV, WY For shipping to CT, IN, LA & MI, please call Benziger's offices at: 800-989-8890 The offer also includes free upgraded from UPS Ground to 2nd Day air on Case purchases (can be mixed). This special promotion expires September 26, 2009    (hide)

  From the article Benziger - Leading the way on Sonoma Mountain

  
  
• 

  August 2009

  Beau Sejour Becot 2006

  Snoothrank: Starting at $73^.83

  Healthy color. Cherrys with pure other dark red fruits. Good clean stuff with persistence.Medium body.Not as serious but more fruit than Latour a Pomerol 06.Refreshing Will buy more

  Wine review by Ignaz

  
  

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