Dark cherry

• November 2009

  It went great, I was just going to wait till I had a moment to collect my thoughts on the subject. THese best part about this group is that everyone in really into experimenting. You'd be amazed by how many different recommendations I received about this from this board and a... Read moreIt went great, I was just going to wait till I had a moment to collect my thoughts on the subject. THese best part about this group is that everyone in really into experimenting. You'd be amazed by how many different recommendations I received about this from this board and a couple of others that I posted on. Also, I waned to see if some of the stylistic differences in some wines might help to stand up to the cigars and so we went for another Zin and shiraz (since last months were failures). This time the Zin did stand up against the cigar 2005 Peter Franus Zinfandel Brandlin Vineyard, comes from mountain fruit and had significantly more structure than the one from the last event - Dark color in the glass with aromas of black currants, beef broth, cinnamon, and fresh cracked black pepper. The palate shows brambly wild berries, clove and distinct black pepper in the back of the mouth with a firm tannin and acid structure. The finish is very long and enjoyable. With the cigar it retained a great mouth feel and cleansing character, The nose muted slightly but still delivered with the currants and cinnamon. Good, but third place for everyone. http://www.snooth.com/wine/peter-franus-wine-company-brandlin-zinfandel-1/ 2007 Pure Love, Shiraz, Layer Cake - Was enjoyable at first but I could tell upon first sip that it would be devoured by the cigar. I was hoping that a big, ripe Shiraz would help but in the end this may as well have been water once the smoke permeated the room. http://www.snooth.com/wine/layer-cake-shiraz-2007-1/ And then there was the Amarone, This ended up being everyone's wine of the night. It was opened 12 hours before the event. 2003 L'Arco Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Dark red to almost black in the glass, showing aromas of plum, confectioners sugar, floral fall leaves, coca, roasted chestnut and cinnamon. Cherry cough syrup, raisin, more cinnamon, clove and dark chocolate. It's full and soft on the palate but carried by a hidden layer of acidity that kept it fresh. Long, long cherry, chocolate finish. This was the wow wine of the night and kept pace once the cigars were lit. It was really great because the cigars actually added to this bottles complexities and brought out more wood and nutty aromas and flavors. http://www.snooth.com/wine/larco-amarone-della-valpolicella-classico-2003/ Lastly there was the 1991 Dow Porto Vintage - A light ruby color in the glass and giving off aromas of Black cherry, undergrowth, pipe smoke and walnut with noticeable heat. On the palate it's rich and sumptuous but not overly sweet with cherry cough syrup, sage, and cedar box. Long, long finish. This bottle did well against the cigar but lacked complexity over all which placed it second in the minds of the other smokers. http://www.snooth.com/wine/dows-vintage-port-1991-1/ Until next month....    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Wine and Cigars??? by Eric Guido

  
  

• November 2009

  Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic... Read more Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic memories from childhood are of German cuisine and one in particular, Goulash.  To this day, a rainy autumn afternoon or snowy winter night will always stir in me the desire for a warm bowl of goulash.  Its moderate heat is perfectly tempered by the rich sauce and natural sweetness of the onions.  When perfectly cooked the meat nearly melts in your mouth and becomes part of the sauce.  This is the ultimate comfort food.  The recipe included below may be very different from what a chef would learn in school, or what the typical cookbook may provide, but I assure you that it will create a Goulash of incredible depth and richness.  The ingredients are simple, but it requires a certain amount of patience from the cook, and passion for the food.  This preparation wasn’t taught to me by one person; instead it was constructed from an old traditional recipe and then fortified by the knowledge of a number of people that credit themselves as Goulash aficionados.  One may have wanted nutmeg, another to brown the meat, but in the end I took the knowledge of all of them and, through experimentation, constructed what you see below.  What to expect: Zinfandel Zinfandel is considered America's own great indigenous grape, even though its origins lie on the Adriatic coast. Planted throughout California and the Pacific Northwest, Zinfandel is at its best in warm regions with cooler temperatures during harvest. The wines can range from off-dry Rosés (aka White Zinfandel) and light bistro styled wines, to big, rich powerful wines - and even luscious dessert wines. The flavors range from plummy to raspberry, although deep blackberry fruit and brambly spice tones are most common. Find more Zinfandel However, there has always been one piece missing in this equation: what wine should I pair with it? Firstly, my experience with German reds is limited and most restaurants I’ve dined at consider beer to be the beverage of choice. Even the wine list at one of my local favorites, and possibly the best German Restaurant in New York City, has only a small number of Rieslings and one or two German reds. Secondly, a good Goulash will usually have a certain amount of heat to it, which poses another problem, where it might overpower the average red. Then it dawned on me: Zinfandel. A wine and food match pairing rich, earth partners. 2007 Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel Ponzo Priced from $29.99 This wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  This Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. Hungarian Goulash This recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests, while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal I choose to pair two wines with this dinner because, like most varietals, Zinfandel is made in many different styles.  The one style I wouldn’t recommend with this dish is the heavily fruited and almost sappy sweet Zinfandels that sometimes cross your path.  Instead I went with one of my most trusted producers, Ridge, and a bit of a wild card that I discovered this year while in Napa Valley, Trespass.   2006 Trespass Zinfandel, from Napa Valley was, surprisingly, a light ruby red color with aromas of bright red fruit, cranberry sauce and a bit of chalk dust. With time the fruit became darker with clove spice and plum, providing beautiful contrast to the heady, rich, beefy aromas of the goulash. On the palate it showed dark blue fruit, cedar and clove, adding complexities to the dish’s earthy flavors of rosemary and paprika.  It's full-bodied and zesty acidity worked wonders, carrying the fruit through the spicy heat of the goulash to end in a long finish reminiscent of sour cherry cough drops. This was a beautifully nuanced and complex zinfandel that ended up as the majority favorite of the night.   2007 Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyard was in many ways the yin to the Trespass Zinfandels yang.  The wine was a dark purple color in the glass and wafted aromas of black cherry fruit followed by confectioners sugar, sage, and a bit of nail polish remover (I mean that in a good way) which added a floral perfume and kept me with my nose to the glass for minutes on end.  On the palate it delivered big, lush brambly fruit with spicy vanilla and dark chocolate flavors.  The wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  The Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. In the end, I have to say that both wines performed equally well but for totally different reasons.  Each wine is, in my opinion, a superior expression of Zinfandel and while the Trespass will capture your soul in its web of elegant fruit and spice, the Ridge will quicken your pulse with its racy perfume and palate of rich bold flavors.  The most difficult part of this pairing was deciding what to do next, eat or drink. The Hungarian Goulash captured us all in our own way.  For me it was nostalgia while, for one guest, it was a wild and new experience, and another saw it as a taste of home.  And for a fellow chef, it was trying to figure out how it was possible to achieve such complexity with so few ingredients.  I think it’s time you try it for yourself. Hungarian Goulash To download a printable pdf file of this recipe please click here. The first thing to understand is that this recipe is all about patience and low, even temperature.  The best cooking vessel to use depends mainly on how much you want to make.  The recipe below is made to serve 7 – 8, and the reason I choose this high yield is that you can always use the extra as leftovers and, due to the time it takes to make it, you might as well have extra.  For the 7 –8 servings I suggest using a heavy stainless steel roasting pan that can span across two burners on your stove.  However, if you were to choose to cut this recipe in half for a small group then I would suggest a cast iron or earthenware vessel such a Le creuset. Secondly, this recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal. 5 pounds beef chuck (fat trimmed, cubed or cut about 1 ½ inch long, ¾ inch thick) 5 large yellow onions (sliced thick wedges) 8 Tbls tomato paste 3 Tbls hot paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 1 Tbls sweet paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 2 tsp dried oregano ¾ tsp fresh grated nutmeg 3 branches fresh rosemary about 4 tsp salt Pepper to taste 5 cups water 2 Tbls AP flour Extra Virgin Olive Oil (as needed) 4 Tbls sweet butter (for the finish) 1 lb fettuccini (Can use egg noodles; serve with potato dumplings or even rice) Place roasting pan over two burners on your stovetop and pour enough olive oil to coat entire bottom of the pan. Set burners to low-medium flame. Once the oil is heated, add onions with a healthy pinch of salt and toss to coat in the oil. Cook over low-medium flame until onions turn translucent but do not allow them to take on any color. Reduce flame to low. Make sure the onions are evenly spread out on the pan bottom and add the beef slices by placing them on top of the onions in an even layer. The beef should cover the onions completely but make sure that none of the pieces touch the side of the pan. The onions should create a cushion between the pan bottom and the beef. Sprinkle another pinch of salt over the beef. Next, sprinkle all the paprika over the beef evenly (I like to use a sifter for this to create a fine and even layer.) Now add the oregano and nutmeg again, evenly over the beef. Lastly, place two (of the three) rosemary branches on top of the beef. (Do not disturb the layers you have created.) Cover the roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil. Check to make sure that the flame is on low. After about 3 – 5 minutes you should hear the mixture bubbling. Allow the mixture to cook like this for 35 minutes and then loosen the aluminum foil to allow a little steam out of the pan. After another 5 – 10 minutes remove the foil (do not discard) and turn all the pieces of meat over. Check to make sure the onions are not burning. You should notice that the meat and onions have released a lot of their juices. Place the foil back on top of the pan (loosely) and allow the mixture to cook over low heat for another 45 minutes. Now place a saucepot on the stove over medium-low flame, add the five cups of water and whisk in the flour slowly, making sure that no lumps form. Now add the tomato paste and again whisk until it is combined. Allow this mixture to come up to a gentle boil but make sure to whisk regularly. Remove the foil from the roasting pan, remove the two branches of rosemary from the pan and add the boiling water-tomato paste mixture. Turn the beef and onions over in the sauce. The cooking liquid should just barely cover the beef and onions. Bring this mixture back to a simmer over medium-low flame and cover loosely with the foil so that steam can escape from the pan. Cook this mixture for an hour to an hour and a half, and stir gently once or twice to make sure that the mixture is cooking evenly. It’s at this time that you should taste. Check to make sure that the beef is tender. Season with salt and pepper. Then turn off the heat. If you want to serve the same day, let this mixture sit for about an hour before going to the next step. If you want to use this for the following day, move the mixture to a bowl and place in an ice bath to cool it quickly, then cover it tightly and place in the refrigerator. When ready to finish, place the Goulash in a pot and set over low heat. Bring another pot of well-salted water to boil for the pasta. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the instructions on the package. While waiting for the pasta, set the butter out on the counter and cut into cubes. Strip the last branch of rosemary for its leaves and chop them. By the time the pasta is finished, the Goulash should be perfectly heated through. Taste for seasoning one last time and then add the butter and stir gently until combined. Strain your pasta and toss in olive oil. Set the pasta on a plate and hollow out a circle in the middle. Pour one or two (depending on the party) ladles of goulash into the center of the plate and sprinkle with the fresh chopped rosemary. Clean the rim of your plate with a warm, moist paper towel and serve. Be prepared for praise.    (hide)

  From the article Goulash, The ultimate comfort food

  
  

• November 2009

  A Bootful of Wine – Tasting Notes from Italy A visit to Terrabianca Terrabianca is a medium sized winery in the heart of the Chianti region, in Radda, located just north of Sienna. It is owned by a German, Roberto Guldener, who now lives in Chianti, and who has strong historical... Read moreA Bootful of Wine - Tasting Notes from Italy A visit to Terrabianca Terrabianca is a medium sized winery in the heart of the Chianti region, in Radda, located just north of Sienna. It is owned by a German, Roberto Guldener, who now lives in Chianti, and who has strong historical ties to Italy. He also lists himself as the viticulturalist. The winemaker is Vittorio Fiore, a well-known and highly skilled oenologist from the region. The company produces 350,000 bottles annually. The property consists of over 120 ha of land, comprising about 15 ha under vine and a significant olive tree plantation, at a level over 250m above sea level, in both Chianti, and Maremma, further south in Tuscany and closer to the ocean. Its name (Terrabianca) is derived from the whitish soils of the area in Chianti, due to the combination of sand, clay and chalk. My visit there was organized by a friend who knows the current marketing manager of the establishment. As we drove towards the property, we passed busloads of most likely British, German and American tourists visiting large establishments in the area. Francesco, my friend and point of entrée into the tasting, lamented that many of the larger wineries made lakes, if not oceans, of mediocre wine, assisted by the “Chianti” name, and feeding off the resurgence of interest in Italian wine. Viticulturally, grapes of moderate quality are turned into half decent wine by paid consultants, producing Chianti with an unexciting sameness. Our arrival at Terrabianca coincided with the final stages of a tasting involving a visiting Brazilian importer. After they had left the full range of wines that Terrabianca produce was open and at our disposal. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot are the major grape varieties grown, with smaller amounts of Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano. We focused on reds at the tasting. 1      La Fonte 2007 This is a 100% Sangiovese wine with 6 months of oak, from vineyards further south in Tuscany, outside the Chianti region, in Maremma, Grossetto. My notes say “This has cherries and some savoury characters, good length and structure.” I can understand why this is their “house wine” - is a ripper. It has 13.5% alcohol, and I gave it 16.5 pts. 2      Scassino 2007 (Chianti Classico) 97% Sangiovese with 3% Canaiolo, this has spent 8 months in oak, it is the quintessence of Chianti Classico, with cherries and some plum flavours. At 13% alcohol, it seemed a bigger wine than the La Fonte, but still an ideal match for spicy food and even fish. 17 pts 3      Croce 2005 (Chianti Classico) DOCG Riserva With the same grape combination as the Scassino, this has spent 15 months in oak, making it more mellow and softer. It was, however, a darker and denser wine with a greater dose of dark/stewed fruit. 17.5 pts 4      Campaccio 2005 A blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, the Cabernet component was immediately evident, with capsicum and cassis notes, but with a lovely meaty, savoury undertow. It has had 12 months of oak treatment, and needs time to allow the wonderful acid and structure to integrate. I loved this wine, and so did Robert Parker a few years ago. 18 pts 5      Campaccio “Selezione”  Riserva 2004 With a higher Cabernet component (50%) and 24 months of oak treatment, this was a wonderfully deep and unctuous wine with chewy tannins and again that savoury edge. It struck me that Italians do with Sangiovese what we in Australia do with Shiraz - fill the Cabernet ‘doughnut’ with dark fruit while clinging to the structure that Cabernet Sauvignon offers, to create their Supertuscans. This has a long life ahead of it - 18.5 pts. 6      Cipresso 2005 We moved on to an interesting set of wines. The first was another 100% Sangiovese wine but not labeled as Chianti Classico and therefore not a DOCG, but an IGT wine. Savoury notes were evident as were the plum, cherry and berry flavours. This time, some liquorice and fennel added to the spiciness. The mouthfeel was wonderful, and belied the commonly held belief that extraction is difficult with Sangiovese. This too has a long life ahead of it - if waiting is possible. 18.7 pts 7      Il Tesoro (Merlot) 2005 This 100% Merlot was like few Australian Merlots I have tasted (barring perhaps the Three Hills Merlot from Happs). From their southerly and more maritime vineyards, the differences between day and nighttime temperatures have added to the acid and structure. The nougat and almond flavours probably derive from the oak treatment, and though not off putting, will further integrate with time. 18 pts. 8      Ceppate 2005 This is a Cabernet dominant wine (90%) with the rest being Merlot. This wine was closed and fruit flavours had to be coaxed out of it with heavy swirling and time. A classic Bordeaux style, with the addition of more perfume on the nose than I have been used to, this too demands time. 17.5 pts We completed the tasting by sampling the extra virgin olive oil produced by Terrabianca - a classic Tuscan style - strong and peppery, with hints of citrus - to light up any salad or loaf of bread you would choose to have with it. What did I learn from the tasting? Firstly, Sangiovese, with its many (13 clones) is a versatile variety, and in the right hands, extraction to produce complex and powerful red wine is possible. (Sangiovese is known by many names - it is the Morellino from Scansano, the Brunello from Montepulciano, and even the Sagrantino from neighbouring Montefalco in Umbria is thought to be related. Secondly, if I were an importer, this is the kind of producer I would deal with. Expert viticulture, modern winemaking facilities, great quality fruit, and every wine in the stable exceptional at its price point. What is the cost of the wine? Well, in Italy, unlike Australia, wine is cheaper at the cantina or winery. So the wines ranged from 10 Euro for the La Croce, to 36 Euro for the Campaccio Riserva and the Ceppate. What did I buy? A dozen each of the Cipresso and the Campaccio - at 20 Euro a bottle. Until next time, ciao! Brendan Jansen    (hide)

  From the article A Bootful of Wine - A Visit to Terrabianca

  
  

• November 2009

  This year I got the opportunity to participate in a winery employee project. Me and a few of other employees at Loxton Cellars got half a ton of Syrah grapes to make our own wine from. We’ll do all the work and we’ll make all the decisions. What does this have to do with... Read moreThis year I got the opportunity to participate in a winery employee project. Me and a few of other employees at Loxton Cellars got half a ton of Syrah grapes to make our own wine from. We’ll do all the work and we’ll make all the decisions. What does this have to do with Gundlach Bundschu? Well, it means that I am in Sonoma more often and not spending the entire time at Loxton. This gives me the opportunity visit our winery neighbours. This time I decided to visit one of the wineries that have the longest history in Sonoma, Gundlach Bundschu. Gundlach Bundschu (GunBun) is still family owned which seems to be a rarity these days. Currently being run by Jeff Bundschu, GunBun, is on its 6th generation of ownership spanning 150 years. GunBun has been making wine in Sonoma 1858 and is second to Buena Vista in longest operating winery in Sonoma. Buena Vista is gone the way of corporate ownership which makes GunBun a true Sonoma Gem. Another thing that makes GunBun interesting is that most of their wine is made from estate grapes. In a time where wineries buy up grapes from many regions GunBun goes the old school route of producing from what they grow. This definitely allows for a ‘place’ expression in their wines. I’d characterize it as earthy goodness with nice acidity. You’ll see this consistently in my tasting notes. This is definitely a result of the proximity of the estate vineyards to San Pablo Bay and the mountain terrain. The tasting room at GunBun is not big but not small. It can be busy and definitely has a bustling atmosphere. There is a $5 tasting fee that allows you to taste 4 wines from the wine portfolio. The current tasting list has 15 wines. Only two of them are white. Luckily for me Carol was working the day I dropped in. Carol used to work with me at Loxton Cellars. This means I got to taste through most of the wines on the list. Don’t worry, I spit and dumped because I tasted through 12 of the 15 wines available. My tasting notes are below: • 2007 Estate Chardonnay $25 (3/5) - Has the feel of a Carneros Chardonnay. Lots of big fruit aroma like lemon, pineapple and some citrus I couldn’t identify. Lots of citrus in the flavors with a creamy finish with some butterscotch but braced by good acidity. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-chardonnay-sonoma-valley-2007/ • 2008 Estate Gewurtraminer $22.50 (3.5/5) - I’m generally not a big fan of Gewurtz. Generally I find them dull and flat. This wine proved me wrong. Aromas of leche and grapefruit and some spice. Lots of layers of fruit flavors including grapefruit, leche and apricot. Good acid, not flat! http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-gewurztraminer-estate-bottled-2008/ • 2005 Vadasz Pinot Noir $32 (4/5) - This is one of the non-estate vineyards and I can see why GunBun got this fruit. This is a proper pinot noir. The vineyard is at the cross section of Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma Valley and Carneros. Nose has cherry, some woodiness and raspberrys. The wine is framed with good acidity, light tannins and has earthiness, spice and light red fruit. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-pinot-noir-vadasz-vineyard-2005/ • 2007 Estate Pinot Noir $34 (3/5) - More of a traditional Carneros pinot noir. Still a young wine but good. More red fruit than the Vadasz Pinot in the nose. Still has good acidity and a nice silky character and red fruit. Very light hints of earthiness. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-pinot-noir-estate-2007/ • 2006 Estate Tempranillo $35 (3/5) - Unusual variety for GunBun when you look at the rest of the lineup. Still, this is a decent wine. Doesn’t have quite the intensity I was expecting. Nice aromas of plum, leather and smoke. Had some nice clove and spice taste but fruit not quite there. Good acidity. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-tempranillo-estate-vineyard-2006/ • 2006 Estate Merlot $30 (3/5) - I’ve been on the hunt for a really good California Merlot and had high hopes for this GunBun wine. I wasn’t disappointed but I wasn’t blown away. Bright red fruit on the nose with some tobacco. Softer in intensity with earthy, leather and plum flavors. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-merlot-estate-vineyard-2006/ • 2006 Vineyard 51 Merlot $30 (3.5/5) - The fruit for this wine is sourced from Alexander Valley, which is noted for Cabernets and Merlots. To me this has a Bordeaux feel to it. More earthiness than the Estate Merlot and a nice herbal character. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-merlot-vineyard-51-2006/ • 2006 Estate Syrah $38 (2.5/5) - Kind of a funky wine. Some funky earthy aromas but not in a bad way, just not something I associate with Syrah. Smoky, black fruit flavors with some leather hints. Surprisingly low in acid for a GunBun Estate wine. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-syrah-estate-bottled-estate-vineyard-2006/ • 2007 Estate Zinfandel $38 (2.5/5) - Not sure why but this wine didn’t appeal to me. It’s not bad but I guess just not my style. Plum and cherry on the nose with flavors with raspberry jam and some spice. • 2006 Estate Cabernet $40 (4/5) - To me GunBun is about cabernet and this is definitely classic Sonoma Cabernet. It is more herbaceous than ripe fruit. Nose has some some spice (cassis) with leather and dark fruit. Good fruit flavors with spice and silky tannins and great balance. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-cabernet-sauvignon-estate-vineyard-2006/ • 2006 Mountain Terraces Cabernet $40 (3.5) - The vineyard for this wine, while owned by GunBun, is far from the property in the Mayacamas Mountains. This is more of a ripe style than the estate cab. Very nice wine. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-cabernet-sauvignon-mountain-terraces-2006/ • 2006 Vintage Reserve $80 (4.5) - This is the ‘big boy’ of the GunBun lineup. Labels feature the works of American artists. Seems to be the trend these days. Ignoring the label this wine is great. Classic Bordeaux style blend. Big aromas including leather, spice, cedar and red fruit. Layers of flavor including, coco, spice, leather and red & dark fruit. http://www.snooth.com/wine/gundlach-bundschu-winery-vintage-reserve-rouge-2006/ Wines I didn’t taste but were available are: • 2008 Tempranillo Rose • 2005 Mountain Cuvee • 2006 Estate Cabernet Franc If you find yourself in Sonoma and you want to visit a place with a true sense of history and continues on in the family tradition you need to stop in at GunBun. I did and very happy that I did. Gundlach Bundshcu (http://www.gunbun.com) General Information E info@gunbun.com P 707.938.5277 F 707.938.9460 Shipping Address: 2000 Denmark Street Sonoma, CA 95476 Wine Club E wineclub@gunbun.com P 866.GO.SWIRL (467.9475) Tasting Room: 707.939.3015 Hospitality, Tours & Events: 707.939.3019    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Gundlach Bundschu Visit ...... by HondaJohn

  
  

• October 2009

  Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese Karen UlrichIMBIBE NEW YORK Tucked away just south of Mâcon, at the tail end of Burgundy, sits Beaujolais—the oft neglected, yet vigorous region devoted to the red grape Gamay.  Capable of producing... Read moreExperiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese Karen UlrichIMBIBE NEW YORK Tucked away just south of Mâcon, at the tail end of Burgundy, sits Beaujolais—the oft neglected, yet vigorous region devoted to the red grape Gamay.  Capable of producing as much wine a year as the entire region of Burgundy, Beaujolais is typically associated with the November release of its potentially reputation-scaring Beaujolais Nouveau—a light and fruity simple red wine that’s meant to be drunk just months after it’s bottled.  But if this isn’t to one’s liking, one should continue north, with her eyes on the horizon beyond the practices of carbonic maceration, chaptalization (the addition of sugar to increase the alcohol level or abv) and short fermentation; past the rich, cool limestone and clay of Bas Beaujolais, and across the Nizerand River where the soil, landscape, and wine, undergo great change. Here, one will see the flat plains of the south give way to rolling hills of granite schist, where the vines receive more singular attention, and Burgundian-like wine making is practiced.  There are 38 communes classified as Beaujolais-Villages, and ten crus, including—Julienas, Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon, Brouilly and Fleurie.  And while some age-worthy wines are produced in these appellations, these are not the wines around which I created my vegetarian recipes this month.  Since most meatless dishes stem from healthy peasant stock, I chose to harness this spirit by choosing affordable wines ($15 or less) that are suitable to drink and pair with the everyday meal. Why Beaujolais?   It’s a wine that many Americans bring to the Thanksgiving table, just a heartbeat away.  And while the traditional turkey fare of this meal doesn’t interest me, a light bodied, red wine with low tannins and high acidity is a dream to pair in the Vegetarian kitchen. For the recipes I began with a list of vegetarian ingredients that are known to pair well with Beaujolais or Gamay—fennel, onion, leeks, potato, eggs, capers, bell peppers, nuts, pumpkin, salad and cheeses that include cheddar, feta, and Swiss.  And then I uncorked a bottle of 2008 Beaujolais L’Ancien Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees.   It’s an exception from Sud Beaujolais, because Jean-Paul uses natural yeasts, minimal or no chaptalization or filtering, and little sulfites.  When poured, subtle aromas of red cherry—slightly candied—and earth rise from the glass, and when sipped, the red fruits (cherry and cranberry) are wholly integrated with the other elements.  The finish is dry and earthy, and the acidity lingers straight through to the end.  It’s super refreshing, especially when served slightly chilled, at 54-59 degrees.  For this bottle I created a dish of roasted green beans, red onion, feta, and hardboiled eggs, with a dressing of olive oil, lemon, garlic, and coriander and cumin.  It’s a perfect match.  The wine retains its bright fruit and acidity without biting back, while the lemon compliments the wine’s acidity.  And though the pairing is harmonious, there’s a silent display of fireworks that illuminates both fruit and acidity, like a torch in a cave.  On the finish, the wine follows in the footsteps of the suggestive dressing, developing notes of spice. My second pairing failed miserably, both as a recipe and with the wine.  I’ll only mention that it included capers, feta, roasted red peppers, broccoli, and toasted walnuts; and that it didn’t work—it’s a tinny combination that turns the Beaujolais tangy and astringent, like under-ripe fruit. Thankfully, recipe number three—Butternut Mac and Cheese—is delightful, though it took a few attempts to get the oven times, textures, and temperatures right. To download a printable PDF of this recipe please follow this link. Butternut Mac and Cheese 1 medium butternut squash (3 lbs.) 3 tbs. olive oil 2 cups of chopped onions 1 lb. pasta, cooked al dente 2 tbs. butter 1/2 cup whole milk 1/2 cup heavy cream 4 cups grated cheese (I used 3 cheddar and 1 cup brought from Amsterdam by Lee) 1/8 tsp. nutmeg 1 1/2 tbs. salt pepper to taste grated Parmesan cheese Preheat the oven at 450˚, cut butternut squash in half, and place it facedown on an oiled sheet.  Bake for 45 minutes, remove from the oven, let the squash cool, and scoop out the flesh. In a pan, heat 2 tbs. of oil, and cook the onions until they’re sweaty—still a bit firm and crunchy—approximately 5 minutes. Mix the onions in a bowl together with the reserved squash, milk and cream, grated cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Toss the al dente pasta with 2 tbs. of butter and combine this with the mix. Pour into an ungreased 9x11 (or 9x13) pan and bake uncovered for 15 minutes at 400˚.  Serve hot. The end result is creamy with contrasting flavors—the sweet and salty earth of the squash; the onions, slightly firm and candied, pop against a background of creamy savory cheese—it’s hearty and healthy, whether eaten alone or with a salad of baby greens and mustard vinaigrette dressing.  The first time I prepared this dish, I paired it with 2008 Beaujolais-Villages La Lutine Domaine Des Terres Vivantes—a wine with smoky minerality and a petticoat of cherry.  It’s silky, and slightly floral with fruit that lingers on the finish; and as the wind blew through my window, wafts of fruit rose from the glass that sat on the table beside me.  I love the minerality on the nose, and when paired with the first round of Butternut Mac and Cheese, La Lutine compliments the squash, rendering it sweet and fruity.  The sweaty onions are lively and the cherry flavors in the wine are highlighted against a backdrop of cheddar cheese.  The pairing is like two new lovers walking hand in hand beneath a canopy of fall colored leaves; the couple not yet wholly integrated after years in each other’s company—each maintaining harmonious but separate identities. For the second round, I opened a bottle of 2007 Château du Chatelard Beaujolais-Villages Vielles Vignes—a more mature Beaujolais, both in age and texture.  Here, one finds dark cherries sprinkled on a damp forest floor.  While the acidity is not electric, it’s enough to keep the rustic tannins in check.  Near the finish, the fruit goes back in time, to appear—if only for a moment—once again young.  And while I enjoy but do not love the wine on it’s own, it pairs perfectly with the Butternut Mac and Cheese. As with the last bottle, the wine accentuates the sweetness of the dish.  The tannins that once seemed somewhat out of place, are replaced with clove spice; and the earthy elements of the wine now have a role with purpose.  The onions, squash, and nutmeg are earthy and sweet, and the wine compliments these notes returning in kind, a love letter stamped with earth and fruit.     (hide)

  From the article Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese

  
  

• October 2009

  Five Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share... Read moreFive Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share a few glass here in New York. Preceding dinner was an in-store tasting at New York’s Chambers Street wines where I was able to revisit the 2007 Bianco and 2006 Barbera d’Alba that I had previously tasted in the cellars. For those of you not familiar with Oddero it’s a historic Cantina of La Morra, in Piemonte, yet produced wines from many of the villages that constitute Barolo. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, though their base Barolo is quite fruity and they even produce a Cabernet Sauvignon based wine called Fureste: The foreigner in the local vernacular. The real stars of the Oddero line-up are the single vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco. These are beautiful wines that may not be terrible expressive in their youth but blossom wonderfully with age. These earlier vintages are testament to the quality of the vineyards, coming from the family’s holdings in La Morra and Castiglione that are now bottled as Cru wines.   For more information on the wines of Oddero please see the previously published : A Killer Visit with Oddero     2007 Langhe Bianco Fruity on the nose with floral tones and pear fruit. Huge acids in the mouth give this great cut with a faceted quality to the mineral laden white fruits. This is assertively mineral on the backend and into the long finish.  89pts 2006 Barbera d’Alba Sweet and sour fruits on the nose are uncomplicated yet pure and bright. The classic Barbera acidity keeps this bright and zesty on the palate as well with a clear, slightly bitter black cherry tone and nice accents of tar, earth and violet than add nice length on the finish. 88pts 1961 Barolo A bit high toned on the nose and showing some volatility yet very aromatic with leafy tones of tobacco some sweet medicinal notes and a lovely array of assertive truffle and sweet angelica root tones. There’s a touch of teriyaki that emerges with air as well. While this retains a nice tannic bite it is fairly well resolved with a clear quality in the mouth that allows the bright sweet/sour cranberry tones to take center stage with hints of licorice and tar adding some detail around the edges. The fruit is fading a bit and doesn’t have great persistence in the mouth with a limestone mineral note taking over on the moderately long finish.  A very enjoyable,, fully mature bottle of Barolo. 92pts 1967 Barolo This starts off bit funky on the nose transitioning from the barnyard to a leathery, seaweed flecked bouquet that exhibits some classic mint and truffle tones before surrendering to a deep beef bouillon, dried onion and allspice tone. In the mouth this still has some flesh, which is well balanced by the relatively soft structure that remains. It gains more richness as it sits in the glass and the sweet edge of maderization gives an impression of sweetness to the cranberry/rhubarb fruit. There is a nice spice element that adds to the moderately long finish and a touch of burnished orange peel on the finale. The palate is fresher than the nose here but if this bottle is indicative these should be consumed sooner rather than later. 88pts 1970 Barolo The aromatics here present quite a contrast with a fresh, crisp celery note intertwined in the sweet black cherry core of fruit. There are hints of sweet tea, veal stock and fresh shitakes adding complexity but there is also a touch of rum on the nose that is a little off-putting. On the palate this is large scaled if soft with a wonderfully plush texture to the cherry and rhubarb fruit with hints of tar and subtle spice tones drawing out the moderately long finish. 90pts 1971 Barolo The cork on this bottle was pristine and the condition of the wine was exceptional. Such a deep color and such reticence on the nose that one would be forgiven thinking this was decades younger. The nose opens with a huge fresh celery note that is slowly subsumed by wonderfully sweet and fresh black currant and black cherry fruit tones.  With air the nuances of coffee, cigarette ash and burnt raisin tones add their detail to the bouquet though a touch of volatility does emerge, adding lift but also a bit of glue to the nose. In the mouth this is elegant with superb balance. The ripe, round tannins remain well concealed in a plush core of fruit. The lovely mouthfeel is complimented by the earthy floral tones and bitter cherry fruit the wine retains but the finish does reveal a bit of heat and the tannins gain a slight powdery edge with time in the glass. This is filled with fruit yet it lacks a touch a detail. It may very well continue to improve in the bottle. 91pts 1974 Barolo This really has a lovely fruity quality on the nose with a lightness and brightness that still makes this smell quite youthful. There are nice notes of dandelion, pigskin, dry earth and licorice that add nice detail to the fresh black cherry fruit. In the mouth this has such purity and real finesse. It is clean and polished with a great core of mineral tinged black cherry fruit, superb length and a sleek, refreshing feel. It is elegant; a touch simple and perhaps even delicate by Barolo standards but is pure joy to drink. Each note is so precise and clear here that you don’t need any more complexity to be completely satisfied. 94pts 1978 Barolo Reticent on the nose yet evolving rich hints of macerated flowers, sandalwood, tar and wet animal fur in the glass. This is continues to be decidedly matte feeling with plenty of fleshy fruit backed up by rich, slightly chewy tannins. The fruit is dark with earthy, leathery tones and excellent length but this still has a touch of an undeveloped feel. It’s rich and lusty if a touch rustic and may remain so. 92pts 1989 Barolo Vigna Rionda The aromatic on this are superbly layered and still very fruity with hints of iron, smoke, smoldering herbs and dusty earth embedded in sweet notes of cherry, candied strawberry and strawberry and cream fruit tones. In the mouth the tannins remain ripe yet rigid giving the mouth an excellent, precise feel. This is rich and powerful and the fruit is just beginning to yield the stage to the emerging tertiary notes but remains wonderfully youthful. 93pts 2001 Barolo Mondoca di Bussia Soprana The nose combines very fruity and intense notes of candied black raspberry fruit and cactus leaves with hints of cigarette smoke, clove and vanilla giving this a bit of a modern appearance. Big, rich and chewy in the mouth with big tannins and a dark core of confiture of black fruits. There are nuanced of espresso foam, licorice and backing spices adding accent notes on the long finish but this is still very youthful and showing lots of baby fat. 92pts 2004 Barolo Spicy on the nose, with jammy red currant fruits and a touch of carob. Lovely fresh tannins and rich fruit give this a soft, round feel with ripe wild cherry and boysenberry fruit that is fresh and intense if a bit simple and dilute on the finish. A fine Basic Barolo 88pts 2004 Barolo Villero A real step up in refinement over the base Barolo with red fruits on the nose accented with clay soil tones rose petals, sweet sassafras, spicy savory tones and a liquory black fruit top note. This offers up a really layered and complex. Set of aromatics.  Deceptively soft at first, the wine snaps together on the mid-palate with well-balanced, crisp, faceted tannins and prominent yet integrated acids framing the bitter cherry fruit. There are lovely herbal, medicinal tones that draw out the inner core of sweetness of the fruit and add resonance on the long finish. A very promising wine but one that is best left alone for a decade. 91pts    (hide)

  From the article Isabella Oddero Visits New York

  
  

• October 2009

  I wasn't going to post anything but since this thread is still going . . . You ... cheap one is fine, lots of dark cherry fruit and a touch of spice and earth. Borsao or Las Rocas or Leilia or Tres Picos - all produce inexpensive versions of garnacha with more complexity than... Read moreI wasn't going to post anything but since this thread is still going . . . You ... cheap one is fine, lots of dark cherry fruit and a touch of spice and earth. Borsao or Las Rocas or Leilia or Tres Picos - all produce inexpensive versions of garnacha with more complexity than you'd ever guess from the price - usually have a touch of earth, ash and spice over the fruit. The Las Rocas can be very uneven depending on which lot your bottle comes from. It's made in millions of bottle runs. Also try some monastrell - it was grown for centuries but usually made a rustic, unpleasant, stinky wine until a few producers attempted to reach a little higher. Because it comes from a region relatively unknown in the US - Murcia, there is not demand from collectors and prices can be great. Altos de Luzon - a blend of moslty monastrell and syrah and I think cab, very earthy and leathery on the nose, great balance, very good job and one of the best values on the market from anywhere IMHO. They do a cheaper version but it's nasty IMO. The bodega led by Juan Gil has been a pioneer in raising the quality of the wine from the grape, and the Juan Gil wine itself is under $20 and great. In addition Casa Castillo does an inexpensive version and Rafael Cambra does a great one but it's over $20. Most of all, don't overlook the great grape of Spain - tempranillo. Too many to list but the traditional crianzas or better, joven wines, from Rioja especially can be great values. E.g. Marques de Riscal, Marques de Murrietta, etc, from Rioja. Regarding the Riscal Reserva - I cannot think of another wine in the world that you can pay less than $12 for and keep for the rest of your life. And it improves w age. Look for Joven or Crianza from Ribera del Duero too - Bodegas Arrocal, Gormaz, and Casajus (which I sell), or the wines of Alejandro Fernandez, like Condado de Haza, or from Toro, his el Vinculo. Greg already mentioned Flavium, which is a really good job of mencia from the north of Spain. There aren't a lot of good value mencia wines out, but that's one and so is the Abad Dom Bueno, which was listed by the NYT as the best value and again, disclaimer - it's something I sell. And don't overlook the whites. Lots of great verdejo available - usually has a touch of grapefruit and a crisp quality - it's what a sauvignon blanc would love to be but never can. There are many Spanish whites around for under $15 and rather than list them I'd suggest that you simply go to the store and pick one up. If you like it, try another. They're often sold by grape variety, so you can learn fast. And don't overlook the rosados either - as a rule, try to get them as fresh as you can, but there are a few that can age, believe it or not. Australia is always a good source of value - Rosemount has really decreased in quality, but is still OK w the whites, Oxford Landing, Two Hands (the Lucky Country is their only low-end red and the new imnporter is raising prices), Mollydooker (the new label from Sparky Marquis who used to make Marquis Phillips), Grant Burge, Jacobs Creek, Lindemanns, Penfolds and Peter Lehman all make a range of wines and their low ends are good. They tend to be fruity and also very "clean", in that you don't get funky, leathery notes on the nose for the most part. Also in Australia, don't ignore the whites. They make some of the best value riesling and semillon on the planet - usually very dry. I'd say just pick up what you find and if you don't like it, try something else. Not much from Napa or Sonoma but if you go to somewhere else in California, you can do well - Fess Parker from Santa Barbara makes a number of wines, Michael Phillips from Lodi makes big, fruity, brawny zins and syrah and cab and petite sirah. And Cline, as mentioned makes pretty good stuff, especially their zin and syrah that come in at your price point. Ravenswoods lower end isn't great - some people like it but go for their better stuff - they've really come back after a few off years. BV is sometimes OK w the Coastal label, but spend a little more - I think their Rutherford cab may be one of the best values in Napa - you can find it for as low as $17 sometimes and worth it. Washington has good values - the Chat St Michelle companies which also include Villa Mt Eden from CA, and Columbia Crest, among others. All of their whites are solid values. The Eroica from Chat St Michelle wins awards every year - it's a riesling that's got a touch of residual sugar, like many kabinett wines from the Mosel these days, but it's always a nice wine and around $18. But if you spend less on the basic riesling, you won't be disappointed and you'll have a few bucks extra for a red. The Reserve cab and syrah from Columbia Crest lists over $25 but can often be found for much less and like I said, if you average out the price of the white and the red, you hit your price point. Italy is easy if you stay south - Sicily has decent wines made from Nero d'Avola like Morgante, with dark fruit flavors and great balance, as well as from other local grapes but their prices are inching up. A-Mano is a primitivo (zinfandel) that is made in Puglia by Chris Shannon from California - it goes for around $8 and is a great value every year. May be the best primitivo from Italy, although Appolonio is good too. Usually they have a little more acidity than some of the CA versions and for the price, a lot more complexity. Monte Antico is from Tuscany and is a pretty good value, as is Gabbiano - a Chianti. If you're looking at a cheap Chianti, you could do a lot worse. Hungary has a few interesting wines - Craftsman is a label that was created to develop good, inexpensive wines as an intro to their grapes and wine. All of them are decent values if you can find them. You can learn about grapes that most people have never heard of and enjoy yourself at the same time. I've had all of these many times and in general, the whites tend to be fruity and have a touch of residual sugar, but they're not sweet. And don't forget Argentina, maybe the best place for the US right now, given the currency rates and how we are suffering against the Euro. You can get any number of malbecs and cabs - Sur, Ox, Gascon, Altos las Hormigas, Altos de las Terrazas, Norton, Dona Paula, etc. All are actually nice. And if you spend a few bucks more for the reservas, you will have excellent wine. The Terrazas for example, makes a reserva that I get for $14.99 and it can hold its own with wines costing much more. These all tend to be fairly big wines with a good shot of oak and spice. Chile makes low-cost wines, but I find them frequently rather green and rarely buy them. They are quite different as a rule than the wines of Argentina, which are more lush and softer. Those from Chile, when ripe, still end to have a bit more in the way of herbal notes, but they also have less opulent fruit and a leaner profile. Can be quite nice in some cases if that's your thing. France remains a strange place. Of its most famous wine, some is the most overpriced on the planet and some represents outstanding value for the money. Beaujolais has a bad rap because people tired of the fashion for the cheap, young wine. As a result, there is little demand for the cru beaujolais and they represent outstanding values. Moreover, some of them are quite ageworthy and for the price of a bottle of Burgundy, you can get a case to lay down. In ten years you'll have a wine that will make your Burgundy drinking friends envious. Brun and Vissoux are 2 that I am happy to own. Syrah from the Northern Rhone is as expensive as Burgundy or Bordeaux, but syrah grows elsewhere and can be delicious. Garnacha, or as they call it, grenache, can be an even better value. There is a lot of swill produced but also a lot of great wine. Chapelle St Arnoux produces my favorite bottle of wine from the South Rhone in the Ventoux region. It's under $10 and drinks wonderfully and is a blend of garnacha and other "Rhone" grapes. It's worth remembering that except for syrah, the most important grapes in the Rhone cam from Spain, so look for the same grapes I mentioned for Spain - grenache, monastrell (which they call mourvedre) and carinena (which they call carignan). These are frequently blended together and in fact, most wines from the south of France are probably blends, so you won’t generally see a bottle that states the grape variety. Doesn’t matter - try them anyway. In the same way that the co-op wines produced in the millions can still represent value in Spain, those of France can also represent value. Many Cote du Rhones are surprisingly good and they have similar profiles to the Spanish wines I described earlier - earthy, strawberry/cherry fruit, spice. Most of the wines I've mentioned from France, Spain and Italy are made with little or no new oak. The cost of a French barrel is around $800 these days, so it can be a great savings to the winery if they use old, used barrels or cement tanks. France also has regions that are frequently ignored. The Loire for example produces great cabernet franc. It tends to have a green and herbal note to it, VERY unlike the wines from the south which are generally much fruitier and more pleasant up front, but if you like that quality, it's hard to find better values anywhere. The whites from the Loire, especially the far west, are outstanding values if you like super lean, crisp, minimalist whites. It's also the home of sauvignon blanc, and while I'm not a huge fan of the grape, the wines from that region can be exceptional. Lesser known areas like Jura, Savoie, Madiran, and others can be sources of value but as it's unlikely you'll find much, I'll not say anything about them. At any rate, if you buy a handful of wines from each of the areas I mentioned, you'll get a good overview and have enough to keep you busy for a long time.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What is your favorite wine... by GregT

  
  

• October 2009

  Spicy Green Chili Stew and a Fiesty Red Mencia from Spain tames this ... tannins that support dark cherry fruit with complicating notes of spice, earth, tar and herbs.    Show me more wines from Bierzo Before diving deeply into the pantheon of Beef... Read more Spicy Green Chili Stew and a Fiesty Red Mencia from Spain tames this ... tannins that support dark cherry fruit with complicating notes of spice, earth, tar and herbs.    Show me more wines from Bierzo Before diving deeply into the pantheon of Beef and lamb dishes that are the staples of winter, I always look to pork to help make the transition from lighter summer fare to the stick to the ribs dishes I use to fend off the chill of winter. Pork and green chilies are a wonderful pairing, I find the typical Pork in green chili sauce sometimes  lacks a little oomph for my tastes, so I’ve taken a bit of creative license here. With my busy schedule I try and make one pot dishes whenever possible so the addition of some beans, and posole is not only in keeping with the south of the border spirit of this dish but takes this Chile verde from oh! to Wow! In my book.   This dish can get a bit spicy so look for a fruity, full-bodied red with soft tannins to pair here though a big, rich white would work as well. I’ve chosen the Flavium Bierzo specifically because of its soft tannins, rich, subtly spicy fruit and great balance, and it’s a wonderful match.   I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. The subtle spice of this pork stew pairs perfectly with the plush fruit of Mencia. 2005 Flavium Bierzo Crianza Priced from $8.84 This is a lovely little wine with ripe fruit scents that waft from the glass, uncomplicated but fresh and pure. The palate is soft and enveloping with sweet red fruit tones, good acids and just enough tannin to give this some weight in the mouth. Spicy Pork and Green Chile Stew By: Gregory Dal Piaz This take on Pork in Salsa verde introduces an extra layer of spice and smoky heat to the traditional reecipe while making it an easy one-pot dinner with the addition of beans and posole. An autumn dish to warm the soul. To download a printable PDF file of this recipe please click here. Greg’s Great Green Chili Stew Ingredients to serve 4 ¼ cup olive oil 2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 chipotle chilies, crushed 1 tsp. dried oregano 2 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground cumin 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 medium onions, peeled and ½ inch dice 2 tsp salt 1 pound tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and quartered 1 qt chicken stock 2 bay leaves 1 16oz can posole (hominy) 1 16 oz can pink beans (All canned beans and posole should be rinsed with water in a colander, to wash way all traces of canning residue, before using them) 3 Poblano Chilies, roasted*, peeled and 1 inch dice Or-2 7 oz. cans California green chilies, seeded and chopped For Garnish: Fresh Cilantro leaves, Diced red onion, diced tomato, lime wedges Technique Over a medium high flame heat the Dutch oven. When it’s hot add 2 tbsp of the oil and then brown the pork cubes. You may have to do this step in batches to avoid crowding. Once the cubes are well browned on all sides remove them from the pot. Add the Crushed Chipotles, oregano, coriander and cumin to the fat that remains in the pot, adding the remaining tbsp of oil if necessary, and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minutes, keep stirring the spice mixture to prevent burning Add the sliced garlic and sauté with the spice blend until fragrant, about 90 seconds. Add the diced onions and salt to the pot and stir well. Continue cooking until the onions have begun to brown, approximately 8 minutes. Add the tomatillos to the onion mixture and blend well. Reduce the heat and simmer until the tomatillos have softened and released their liquid, about 10 minutes. Add the reserved pork cubes, chicken stock, bay leaves, pink beans, posole, and green chilies to the pot, blend well, and allow to simmer until pork is fork tender. Make sure that the stew doesn’t become too dry. Add water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve garnished with Cilantro, diced red onion and diced tomato with a squeeze of lime. This dish is actually better reheated so don’t be shy about doubling the recipe and saving some for leftovers! * Roasting Poblano chilies is easy to do on any open flame. Simply rest the chili on your stove top (or oven broiler) and leave in the flame until the skin is burnt and blistered. Once the chilies are charred on all sides remove them to a bag or closed container to allow them to steam while they cool. That will make peeling them all the easier. You can wash off the charred skin that remains on the chilies under running water but I like to leave some on for this dish as it adds a bit of extra smokiness to the finished product    (hide)

  From the article Green Chili Stew and Mencia

  
  

• October 2009

  The Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the... Read moreThe Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the village of Verduno. Monvigliero is the pinnacle of their craft, but the more approachable Neirane, also from Verduno, serves as a great introduction to both the house style and the alluringly different wines of Verduno. In addition to these two, rather unique olive and herb scented wines, Burlotto also produces an exemplary Barolo Cannubi as well as a full range of other red varieties. This evening I was more interested in the four wines in front of me, the 1995 Monvigliero and Neirane, as well as the 1996 Cannubi and Neriane. Each bottle performed splendidly, expressing not only the vintages character, but also the terroir of each vineyard beautifully. These are wines that can be deceptive in their youth, seemingly lean and sometimes more savory than fruity but with time their inner beauty is revealed. The balance and freshness of Burlotto Barolo, in fact all of their wines, is a testament not only to the traditional ways of wine production, but also to the care and attention the family focuses on each step in the winemaking process. These may not be wines for everyone, but their natural transparency and pure expression of terroir strike a chord with me and I urge anyone with an interest in Piedmontese wines to sample a few. Don’t be too quick to judge the wines of Burlotto though. Like all the best of Piemonte, they take a bit of time to  open up and reveal themselves but once they do you can’t help but love their honesty, generosity and authenticity.   For more information on Burlotto, the wines and techniques involved please see: Step back in time with Commendatore G.B. Burlotto   1995 Burlotto Barolo Neirane This opens like a remarkable example of Cote Rotie with notes of olives, flowers, red raspberry fruit and an undertone of dried strawberry. With air notes of tar and tobacco emerge and add complexity. In the mouth this is somewhat small scaled but with great focus in a smooth, medium full bodies style with supple wild cherry fruit and light spice tones on the mid-palate that yield to notes of citron and strawberry on the finish. A very fine bottle at maturity with a balanced yet fleshy feel 91pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Neirane The bright aromatic of this wine are full of heather, licorice, smoke, olive brine and menthol notes but the fruit is still a bit reticent. In the mouth one finds superbly fine-grained tannins that are powerful but balanced by notes of white clay, leather and incipient dark raspberry fruits. This offers beautiful precision but remains a bit tight and coy on the palate. I like where this is going though and the aromatics hint that we are almost there.. 92pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Simply wonderful aromatics that ranged from lilacs, to seared cherry, hot rocks, to roses, orange peel, earth and spice all around a core of sweet red fruit. In the mouth there is superb balance with succulent mineral notes and clear, if fairly rich and quite tannic, faceted fruit. The fruit grows in the glass revealing exceptional intensity and purity with significant upside potential. 93pts   1995 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Intense notes of incense and candlewax immediately emerge from the glass joined by dark, smoky, slightly jammy fruits with complicating notes of fish sauce, underbrush, tapenade, thyme and olive oil. In the mouth he tannins are delicate and light if abundant giving the wine a velvety texture. The rosehip and wild cherry fruit is framed by vitamin like mineral notes and a wonderful inner mouth perfume of roses and tapenade. Still youthful this is emerging from its shell and has a very promising future. 93pts.   Below are notes on wines I tasted with winemaker Fabio Alessandria  this past May. Many are just now arriving in the marketplace. 2008 Burlotto Pelaverga Aromatics are intense and deep with penetrating, minerally focus that carries over to the palate. Cranberry fruit on the palate is paired with the intense minerality giving this a downright steely quality but it does lack some of the intensity of the 2007. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Barbera d’Alba Huge, soaring aromatics are captured here with note of cold earth, pollen, wild animale notes and slightly spicy notes of black-fruited hard candy. In the mouth this is perfectly proportioned with deep, lively fruit a hint of round tannin and snappy acids. The finish is dominated by the acids but with excellent length and reverb. Super Barbera. 90pts 2007 Burlotto Freisa Lightly smoky on the nose with an exotic boysenberry coulis note that is countered by dark aromatic spice roots and a hint of leafy geranium. The mouthfeel is both transparent and mouthcoating with a hint of bitterness on the mid-palate. The tannins are pretty big but ripe enough that they already begin to melt away on the finish, which is tarry and spiced with floral tones that compliment the dark plummy red fruits. This is better on the nose at this point. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Nebbiolo Fresh and herbal on the nose with a sandy underlay and suggestions of briary wood and wildflowers adding detail. Huge acidity in the mouth is followed by a wave of fruit and perfectly ripe tannins. The midpalate is laced with minerality that adds cut and definition to the wild cherry and watermelon fruit that gains some pomegranate depth on the back end. This finishes strongly with excellent length and an almost salty, mineral finale. 90pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi Balsamic on the nose with complex aromas of church candle, bay leaf, chalk and wild berry fruits. Nervous with fine-grained tannins in the mouth that frame slightly spice sweet red fruit notes. The feel is wonderfully fresh in the mouth and strikingly transparent though one could wish for a bit more richness to the fruit.  89pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Leathery and slightly bretty on the nose with a deep gamy element that contrasts against the sweet dark fruits of the nose Notes of olive brine, mortadella and carnations emerge from the glass with air. Soft and suave in the mouth with a rich core of spiced fruit supported by great acids that keep this taut and tense. Great camphor tinged cherry fruit in the mouth conceals a bed of ripe tannins. A very well balanced 2005. 93pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Deep and dark on the nose with fruit, heather, dried grass and hints of grilled meats, cinnamon and green anise seed adding great detail. In the mouth this is very classic Barolo with clear acids and assertive if polished tannins supporting the slightly leathery, bright amarena cherry tinged fruit. Fine balance and great length but this is really a bit tight at this point 91pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi A lovely nose of floral tones with savory hints of oregano, olive oil and sundried tomato. In the mouth his is sapid and round with soft tannins and sweet fruit on the palate with hints of fresh green herbs adding detail. The wine is still very tight but well balanced with strawberry fruits and fine, well proportioned structure.  88-90pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Wonderfully aromatic already with precise raspberry fruit framed by hints of campfire, saffron, baked clay and a slight underbrush tone. In the mouth thios is crystal clear with a lean yet very precise feel to the candied red raspberry flavors. The structure is very finely balanced and the tannins are perfectly ripe leading to a fine, long taut finish. An excellent wine in the making 91-94pts      (hide)

  From the article A dinner with the wines of Burlotto

  
  

• October 2009

  Poultry and red wine, but which wine? Pinot Noir to the rescue Eric Guido is back this week with a great recipe for Roast Chicken. Long considered the dish to judge a chef by, the simplicity of a Roast Chicken demands attention to detail and a fine... Read more Poultry and red wine, but which wine? Pinot Noir to the rescue Eric Guido is back this week with a great recipe for Roast Chicken. Long considered the dish to judge a chef by, the simplicity of a Roast Chicken demands attention to detail and a fine understanding of technique. Eric lays out each step of the preparation and technique to ensure that your bird is moist, tender and flavorful. Pinot Noir is a classic match for roast poultry. Eric matches his recipe with a terrific example from the Sonoma Coast. Benefitting from the cooling effects of the Pacific Ocean, the Sonoma Coast is home to some of California’s most compelling examples of this fickle grape. His choice of the A. P. Vin Kanzler Vineyard is  wonderful, and works with the dish beautifully, but it is a rare bottle, and not inexpensive. We’ve selected two great examples of Pinot Noir to pair with Eric’s Roast Chicken, one from the Sonoma Coast and another from Northern Italy that should match up perfectly to the flavors and textures of the dish. To read Eric's article and recipe click here. What to expect: Pinot Noir Responsible for some of the greatest wines on earth, the exhaulted red wines of France's Burgundy region, Pinot Noir is a notoriously fickle grape that expresses it's origins like no other. It's a vine that needs to struggle to produce great wines, but when it does the depth of flavors that range from cherry to cola can be explosive. The wine's bright acidity and gentle tannins make it very approachable, giving it broad appeal. Find more affordable Pinot Noir Two Great Examples of Pinot Noir 2005 Macmurray Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Priced from $19.29 With light oak and toast notes on the nose this starts off on the dark side but adds nice cherry pie fruit tones on the palate that are soft and supple. With a touch of vanilla and baking spice adding complexity on the backend. 2007 Hofstatter Pinot Noir Meczan Priced from $19.99 This just smells lovely, full of forest floor, tea and earth notes that gently frame the fruit. In the mouth it's bright and linear with a soft, fleshy core of red fruits that gain complexity on the finish with notes of incense, stems and tree bark.    (hide)

  From the article Pairing food and wine: Roast Chicken and Pinot Noir

  
  

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