Color - Medium

• November 2009

  It's A Vegetarian Thanksgiving Perfect for Breaking Out of the ordinary with a Wild, White Rhone Blend Not too long ago I received a request from a fan on Facebook to put together a vegetarian menu for one of our Friday emails. With Thanksgiving bearing down on... Read more It's A Vegetarian Thanksgiving Perfect for Breaking Out of the ordinary with a Wild, White Rhone Blend Not too long ago I received a request from a fan on Facebook to put together a vegetarian menu for one of our Friday emails. With Thanksgiving bearing down on us I thought this would be a great opportunity to fulfill my promise to her. While I love the bounty of fresh vegetables and fruits that rolls out through the spring and summer months, the return of hearty, rich, stick to your ribs foods is something I look forward to each autumn. There has to be something redeeming about the fading daylight hours and return of cold weather, right? Well this is my silver lining, an antidote to the onset of the winter blues! I’ve tried to retain a certain bit of tradition with my dishes, so I sought out a stuffed entrée, gotta have stuffing for Thanksgiving, and an accompanying side dish that brings us back to the culinary roots of our cuisine. Thus I present to you: Eggplant with Creole Wild Rice Stuffing served with baked squash, dosed with a lime dressing. This meal has it all, sweet, roasted notes, spice and heat, as well as the refreshing, cooling qualities of the lime. What to expect: Roussanne Roussanne is a grape that usually plays second fiddle. An important component in most white Rhone blends, it is valued for its bright acidic character. Roussanne has usually added cut and depth to these blends, acting as a counterpoint to Marsanne’s rich, fruit driven character. In warm climates, certain clones of Roussanne have proven to be great soloists. The typical modern winemaking routine, harvesting when physiologically ripe, barrel fermenting, and aging sur lees,that has had mixed results for some grapes, has worked to draw our Roussanne’s strengths: it’s unusual orchard fruit and nutty components, as well as it’s ability to develop remarkable aromatic complexity with age. Find More Roussanne wines This compelling white is a great choice for your Thanksgiving dinner, vegetarian or not. 2006 Zaca Mesa Roussanne Priced from $19.49 Really rich yet bright on entry, with a seductive mouthfeel that manages to be both filling and vivid. The fruit is verging into the slightly honied, dried peach end of the spectrum, with lovely spice tones and creamy edges helping to frame the mid-palate. Vegetarian Dishes for the Thanksgiving Table By; Gregory Dal Piaz Thanksgiving is a time to celebrate, not spend in the kitchen. My recipes are designed to work together for a minimum of mess and fuss. My stuffing can be made in one pot and both dishes bake together to perfection. Click here to download a printable pdf file of this recipe. Eggplant with Creole seasoned Wild Rice Stuffing Ingredients for 6 servings 2 large or 3 medium eggplants 1 cup wild rice, uncooked 1/4 cup butter 1 cup onion, fine dice 1 cup celery, fine dice 1 cup red bell pepper, fine dice Scooped out insides of eggplant, 1/2inch dice 1 tbsp salt 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 chipotle chili pepper, finely chopped 1 tsp dried thyme 1 tbsp sweet paprika 4 cups vegetable stock 3 cups of French Bread, ½ inch dice, baked until well toasted, Toasting the bread cubes before adding them to the stuffing will help produce a crisper crust for the finished dish. ½ cup chopped celery leaves, or parley leaves 2 eggs, well beaten Directions Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise, and scoop out the center, leaving enough meat inside the skin, about an inch, so that it holds its shape when baked. Dice the scooped out flesh, and reserve for use in the stuffing. Preheat the oven to 350F, make sure to place racks in the lower and middle thirds of the oven. In a strainer, rinse the rice well with cold water. Place a large (6qt or larger) stock or sauté pan over medium high heat. When the pan is warmed, add the butter and allow to melt. When the butter is melted, and just beginning to brown, add the onions, celery, peppers, diced eggplant and salt. Sauté the vegetables until the have softened, about 6-8 minutes, then add the garlic, chipotle, dried thyme and paprika. Blend well and sauté until the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add 3 ½ cups of the vegetable stock. Raise heat to high until the stock comes to a simmer. Add the rice, reduce the heat to a low simmer and cover the pot. The rice will take about 40 to 45 minutes to fully cook. While the rice is cooking you can slice and toast the bread cubes and turn your attention to preparing the squash. Toast the bread cubes on a baking sheet placed on the middle rack of the pre-heated oven. After 4 minutes or so give the cubes a stir to help promote even browning. Allow to bake for an additional 3-4 minutes or until golden brown. Remove the bread from the oven and raise the heat to 425F Once the rice is fully cooked remove the pan from the heat and blend in the bread cubes, adding additional stock as required. Allow the rice to cool enough so that the eggs won't cook when you stir them in. Add the celery (or parsley) leaves and eggs and blend until well combined. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as desired. Fill the scooped-out eggplant halves with this mixture, dividing it evenly among the halves. Place them on an oiled oven tray or baking dish, and bake for 40 minutes, on the lower rack in the preheated oven. Let cool briefly, slice widthwise and serve. I like to top the eggplants with a bit of cheese for color and flavor but I’ve omitted the cheese, keeping this strictly vegetarian. For this dish I like a Sheep’s milk cheese such as Manchego or Pecorino. Baked Squash with Lime dressing Ingredients for 6 servings. 3 1.5lb Kabocha squash, (You can substitute acorn, or buttercup) 1/2 teaspoon white pepper 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced or 1 tbsp garlic puree 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste 1 tbsp minced Jalapeno ¼ cup tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro Directions Preheat the oven to 425°F. Cut the squash in half lengthwise, Scoop out the seeds and slice the squash into ½ inch thick slices, discarding the tops and bottoms if they are too uneven or lack enough flesh to roast. Toss the squash with the pepper, salt, and olive oil then arrange on a large backing sheet. Roast squash, on the middle rack in the preheated oven. After 20 minutes, halfway through the cooking process, remove the pan and flip the slice of squash over to brown both sides. While the squash roasts, whisk together the garlic, lime juice, and jalapeno. I like to do this in a mini-food processor. After another 20 minutes, once the squash are cooked, remove them from the oven and arrange the slices on a serving platter. Drizzle the Lime dressing evenly over the slices. Garnish with the fresh Cilantro leaves and serve.    (hide)

  From the article A vegetarian wine pairing, just in time for Thanksgiving

  
  

• November 2009

  Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic... Read more Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic memories from childhood are of German cuisine and one in particular, Goulash.  To this day, a rainy autumn afternoon or snowy winter night will always stir in me the desire for a warm bowl of goulash.  Its moderate heat is perfectly tempered by the rich sauce and natural sweetness of the onions.  When perfectly cooked the meat nearly melts in your mouth and becomes part of the sauce.  This is the ultimate comfort food.  The recipe included below may be very different from what a chef would learn in school, or what the typical cookbook may provide, but I assure you that it will create a Goulash of incredible depth and richness.  The ingredients are simple, but it requires a certain amount of patience from the cook, and passion for the food.  This preparation wasn’t taught to me by one person; instead it was constructed from an old traditional recipe and then fortified by the knowledge of a number of people that credit themselves as Goulash aficionados.  One may have wanted nutmeg, another to brown the meat, but in the end I took the knowledge of all of them and, through experimentation, constructed what you see below.  What to expect: Zinfandel Zinfandel is considered America's own great indigenous grape, even though its origins lie on the Adriatic coast. Planted throughout California and the Pacific Northwest, Zinfandel is at its best in warm regions with cooler temperatures during harvest. The wines can range from off-dry Rosés (aka White Zinfandel) and light bistro styled wines, to big, rich powerful wines - and even luscious dessert wines. The flavors range from plummy to raspberry, although deep blackberry fruit and brambly spice tones are most common. Find more Zinfandel However, there has always been one piece missing in this equation: what wine should I pair with it? Firstly, my experience with German reds is limited and most restaurants I’ve dined at consider beer to be the beverage of choice. Even the wine list at one of my local favorites, and possibly the best German Restaurant in New York City, has only a small number of Rieslings and one or two German reds. Secondly, a good Goulash will usually have a certain amount of heat to it, which poses another problem, where it might overpower the average red. Then it dawned on me: Zinfandel. A wine and food match pairing rich, earth partners. 2007 Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel Ponzo Priced from $29.99 This wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  This Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. Hungarian Goulash This recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests, while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal I choose to pair two wines with this dinner because, like most varietals, Zinfandel is made in many different styles.  The one style I wouldn’t recommend with this dish is the heavily fruited and almost sappy sweet Zinfandels that sometimes cross your path.  Instead I went with one of my most trusted producers, Ridge, and a bit of a wild card that I discovered this year while in Napa Valley, Trespass.   2006 Trespass Zinfandel, from Napa Valley was, surprisingly, a light ruby red color with aromas of bright red fruit, cranberry sauce and a bit of chalk dust. With time the fruit became darker with clove spice and plum, providing beautiful contrast to the heady, rich, beefy aromas of the goulash. On the palate it showed dark blue fruit, cedar and clove, adding complexities to the dish’s earthy flavors of rosemary and paprika.  It's full-bodied and zesty acidity worked wonders, carrying the fruit through the spicy heat of the goulash to end in a long finish reminiscent of sour cherry cough drops. This was a beautifully nuanced and complex zinfandel that ended up as the majority favorite of the night.   2007 Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyard was in many ways the yin to the Trespass Zinfandels yang.  The wine was a dark purple color in the glass and wafted aromas of black cherry fruit followed by confectioners sugar, sage, and a bit of nail polish remover (I mean that in a good way) which added a floral perfume and kept me with my nose to the glass for minutes on end.  On the palate it delivered big, lush brambly fruit with spicy vanilla and dark chocolate flavors.  The wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  The Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. In the end, I have to say that both wines performed equally well but for totally different reasons.  Each wine is, in my opinion, a superior expression of Zinfandel and while the Trespass will capture your soul in its web of elegant fruit and spice, the Ridge will quicken your pulse with its racy perfume and palate of rich bold flavors.  The most difficult part of this pairing was deciding what to do next, eat or drink. The Hungarian Goulash captured us all in our own way.  For me it was nostalgia while, for one guest, it was a wild and new experience, and another saw it as a taste of home.  And for a fellow chef, it was trying to figure out how it was possible to achieve such complexity with so few ingredients.  I think it’s time you try it for yourself. Hungarian Goulash To download a printable pdf file of this recipe please click here. The first thing to understand is that this recipe is all about patience and low, even temperature.  The best cooking vessel to use depends mainly on how much you want to make.  The recipe below is made to serve 7 – 8, and the reason I choose this high yield is that you can always use the extra as leftovers and, due to the time it takes to make it, you might as well have extra.  For the 7 –8 servings I suggest using a heavy stainless steel roasting pan that can span across two burners on your stove.  However, if you were to choose to cut this recipe in half for a small group then I would suggest a cast iron or earthenware vessel such a Le creuset. Secondly, this recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal. 5 pounds beef chuck (fat trimmed, cubed or cut about 1 ½ inch long, ¾ inch thick) 5 large yellow onions (sliced thick wedges) 8 Tbls tomato paste 3 Tbls hot paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 1 Tbls sweet paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 2 tsp dried oregano ¾ tsp fresh grated nutmeg 3 branches fresh rosemary about 4 tsp salt Pepper to taste 5 cups water 2 Tbls AP flour Extra Virgin Olive Oil (as needed) 4 Tbls sweet butter (for the finish) 1 lb fettuccini (Can use egg noodles; serve with potato dumplings or even rice) Place roasting pan over two burners on your stovetop and pour enough olive oil to coat entire bottom of the pan. Set burners to low-medium flame. Once the oil is heated, add onions with a healthy pinch of salt and toss to coat in the oil. Cook over low-medium flame until onions turn translucent but do not allow them to take on any color. Reduce flame to low. Make sure the onions are evenly spread out on the pan bottom and add the beef slices by placing them on top of the onions in an even layer. The beef should cover the onions completely but make sure that none of the pieces touch the side of the pan. The onions should create a cushion between the pan bottom and the beef. Sprinkle another pinch of salt over the beef. Next, sprinkle all the paprika over the beef evenly (I like to use a sifter for this to create a fine and even layer.) Now add the oregano and nutmeg again, evenly over the beef. Lastly, place two (of the three) rosemary branches on top of the beef. (Do not disturb the layers you have created.) Cover the roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil. Check to make sure that the flame is on low. After about 3 – 5 minutes you should hear the mixture bubbling. Allow the mixture to cook like this for 35 minutes and then loosen the aluminum foil to allow a little steam out of the pan. After another 5 – 10 minutes remove the foil (do not discard) and turn all the pieces of meat over. Check to make sure the onions are not burning. You should notice that the meat and onions have released a lot of their juices. Place the foil back on top of the pan (loosely) and allow the mixture to cook over low heat for another 45 minutes. Now place a saucepot on the stove over medium-low flame, add the five cups of water and whisk in the flour slowly, making sure that no lumps form. Now add the tomato paste and again whisk until it is combined. Allow this mixture to come up to a gentle boil but make sure to whisk regularly. Remove the foil from the roasting pan, remove the two branches of rosemary from the pan and add the boiling water-tomato paste mixture. Turn the beef and onions over in the sauce. The cooking liquid should just barely cover the beef and onions. Bring this mixture back to a simmer over medium-low flame and cover loosely with the foil so that steam can escape from the pan. Cook this mixture for an hour to an hour and a half, and stir gently once or twice to make sure that the mixture is cooking evenly. It’s at this time that you should taste. Check to make sure that the beef is tender. Season with salt and pepper. Then turn off the heat. If you want to serve the same day, let this mixture sit for about an hour before going to the next step. If you want to use this for the following day, move the mixture to a bowl and place in an ice bath to cool it quickly, then cover it tightly and place in the refrigerator. When ready to finish, place the Goulash in a pot and set over low heat. Bring another pot of well-salted water to boil for the pasta. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the instructions on the package. While waiting for the pasta, set the butter out on the counter and cut into cubes. Strip the last branch of rosemary for its leaves and chop them. By the time the pasta is finished, the Goulash should be perfectly heated through. Taste for seasoning one last time and then add the butter and stir gently until combined. Strain your pasta and toss in olive oil. Set the pasta on a plate and hollow out a circle in the middle. Pour one or two (depending on the party) ladles of goulash into the center of the plate and sprinkle with the fresh chopped rosemary. Clean the rim of your plate with a warm, moist paper towel and serve. Be prepared for praise.    (hide)

  From the article Goulash, The ultimate comfort food

  
  

• November 2009

  Two Chefs Compare Notes One's a little country, one's a little big city. I’ve read a lot of cookbooks in my life. Some are indispensible reference works, some are entirely dispensable regifts, and some are just plain fun and inspirational. Down home:... Read more Two Chefs Compare Notes One's a little country, one's a little big city. I’ve read a lot of cookbooks in my life. Some are indispensible reference works, some are entirely dispensable regifts, and some are just plain fun and inspirational. Down home: downtown, which compares the recipes of two of wine country's best Chefs, is one of those cookbooks that you actually want to read. Published by Rodney Strong Vineyards, down home:downtown represents the essence of wine country cooking. Wine friendly dishes that draw on the bounty of local farms in all their seasonal glory. Each chef has carefully crafted a set of recipes based on the same basket of main ingredients. It’s Iron Chef on paper, and a blast to read. It would make a great gift for your favorite foodie/wine geek. The recipes are clear, easy to follow, and precise, though these are restaurant recipes so some involve quite a few steps.  I love the way the dishes are presented, and the photos, of the dishes, the respective restaurants, and the Sonoma countryside are gorgeous.  I had to pop a bottle of Rodney Strong’s 2006 Knotty Vines Zinfandel to enjoy while reading down home: downtown, and just happened upon a wonderful foil to this fine wine. What to expect: Zinfandel Zinfandel is considered America's own great indigenous grape, even though its origins lie on the Adriatic coast. Planted throughout California and the Pacific Northwest, Zinfandel is at its best in warm regions with cooler temperatures during harvest. The wines can range from off-dry Rosés (aka White Zinfandel) and light bistro styled wines, to big, rich powerful wines - and even luscious dessert wines. The flavors range from plummy to raspberry, although deep blackberry fruit and brambly spice tones are most common. Find more Zinfandel Two great recipes. Which one is right for you? Apple Wood Smoked Pork Chops with Fresh Applesauce By:Jeff Mall Jeff Mall, the down home half of this duo of Chefs, hangs his hat at Healdsburg’s Zin Restaurant and Wine Bar.  His version of Pork Chops and applesauce exudes classic country cooking style Pork Chops with Fennel-Apple Salad and Potato Pancakes By: Josh Silvers Josh Silver’s Syrah bistro, located right off the plaza in downtown Santa Rosa, bring an international flair to his dish, pairing the pork with fennel, crisp potato pancakes, and a sophisticated Aioli. Zin Restaurant & Wine Bar (Jeff Mall) 344 Center St. Healdsburg, CA 9544 707.473.0946 Apple Wood–Smoked Pork Chops with Fresh Applesauce, Braised Rainbow Chard, and Corn Bread Stuffing follow this link for a printable pdf file of this recipe For the pork chops: In a large bowl, combine the beer, salt, sugar, molasses, Sriracha hot sauce, garlic, peppercorns, and thyme. Add the water and stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Add the pork chops, cover, and refrigerate for 12 hours. For the applesauce: In a large, heavy skillet, melt the sugar over medium-high heat, shaking the pan frequently, until it just begins to turn golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the apples, lime juice, and salt. (The caramel will clump, but will melt as the applesauce cooks; add a little water to melt it if necessary.) Cook, stirring often and adjusting the heat as needed to prevent scorching, until the apples are soft and caramelized a light brown color, about 15 minutes.  Remove from the heat and stir in the cinnamon. Set aside. For the corn bread stuffing: Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, turning, until well browned on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the onion, celery, and green pepper and sauté until the onion is translucent and soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the parsley, sage, and chicken broth and bring to a boil. Put the corn bread in a large, shallow 8-cup baking dish and pour the onion mixture over the corn bread. Stir gently to coat and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to the oven and bake until browned, about 20 minutes.  Remove from the oven and keep warm. While the stuffing is baking, prepare a charcoal grill for indirect-heat cooking, mounding the hot coals on one side of the grill. Remove the pork from the brine (discard the brine) and pat dry. Soak the apple wood chips in warm water for 10 minutes; drain. Sprinkle the apple wood chips over the coals and place the pork chops on the indirect-heat area of the grill (not over the coals). Cover the grill and smoke the pork chops for 20 minutes. Remove the cover and open the vents to increase the heat; if needed, add a few more coals. Move the pork chops to the direct-heat area of the grill and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each side for medium. Transfer to a plate and tent with aluminum foil; let rest for 5 minutes. For the rainbow chard: Coarsely chop the chard leaves. In a large skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Add the onion and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Working in batches, add the chard and cook until wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar and chicken broth, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the chard is tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm. To serve, reheat the applesauce over low heat. Spoon a mound of corn bread stuffing into the center of each of 4 dinner plates. Top each with one-fourth of the chard. Lean a pork chop against each mound and add a spoonful of applesauce. Makes 4 main-course servings Syrah Bistro (Josh Silvers) 205 Fifth St. Santa Rosa CA 707.568.4002 Pork Chops with Fennel-Apple Salad and Potato Pancakes follow this link for a printable pdf file of this recipe For the pork chops: In a medium saucepan, combine the water, salt, vinegar, sugar, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil over high heat, then remove from the heat, and let cool completely. Pour over the pork chops in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours. Meanwhile, for the fennel-apple salad: Using a mandoline or very sharp knife, cut the apple and fennel into paper thin slices. Put the slices in a bowl, cover with ice water, and soak for 30 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, sugar, lemon zest, and olive oil together. Season with salt and pepper. Drain the fennel and apple well and toss with the vinaigrette. For the aioli: On a cutting board, mince the garlic with the salt and mash with the flat edge of the knife until it forms a paste. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolk, lemon juice, and mustard together. Whisk in the garlic paste. Combine the oils in a measuring cup and, whisking constantly, add them to the yolk mixture a few drops at a time until the mixture is emulsified and all the oil is incorporated. (If the mixture separates, stop adding the oil and continue whisking until mixture comes together, then resume adding oil.) Whisk in the fennel pollen and season with salt and pepper. If the aioli is too thick, whisk in 1 or 2 drops of water. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. For the potato pancakes: Using the large holes on a box grater, shred the potato and onion into a bowl of hot water. Drain, cover with more hot water, and drain again. Cover with cold water, rinse, then drain very well. Spread the shreds on a clean kitchen towel, roll it up, and wring to squeeze out as much water as you can. Empty the shreds into a bowl and add the egg, flour, salt, and pepper; stir to combine thoroughly. Gently shape the mixture into 4 equal cakes. In a large, heavy skillet, heat 1⁄2 inch oil over high heat to 375°F (a shred of potato will sizzle and brown almost instantly), and add the potato pancakes. Flatten each gently with a metal spatula and fry until golden brown on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip over and cook until golden brown on second side and tender throughout, 3 to 4 minutes more. Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Drain the pork chops and pat dry. Grill for 6 or 7 minutes on each side for medium. Place a potato pancake on each of 4 dinner plates and top each with a pork chop. Add a spoonful of aioli and the fennel-apple salad. Garnish with fennel fronds if desired and serve. Makes 4 main-course servings   down home:downtown makes a great gift and can be ordered directly from each restaurant. Support these two fine chefs by making a reservation at either Zin Restaurant or Syrah Bistro during your next trip to wine country. If you can't make it to Sonoma, bring their cooking home. Purchase a copy of down home:downtown and share the bounty of Sonoma with friends and family alike. Zin Restaurant & Wine Bar      Syrah Bistro    (hide)

  From the article down home: downtown

  
  

• October 2009

  Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Cutting the fat with Dry Rielsing Eric Guido returns this week with a stunning Fettucini in Truffled Cream Sauce recipe. Using the the theory of contrasting flavors Eric has paired this dish with a set of dry... Read more Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Cutting the fat with Dry Rielsing Eric Guido returns this week with a stunning Fettucini in Truffled Cream Sauce recipe. Using the the theory of contrasting flavors Eric has paired this dish with a set of dry rieslings. In the wine and food pairing world there are two fundamental concepts that govern pairing decisons. One can choose to either contrast, or to compliment, the flavors and textures of a dish.In this case the rich creaminess of the sauce is contrasted against the brilliant mineral, and acid rich flavors of the wines. Other wines that would be worth exploring for this sort of dish, rich, creamy and laced with prosciutto, would include Pinot Bianco from the Alto Adige, Fiano di Avellino from Campania, dry Riesling from Australia or even a fine aged dry Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley What to expect: Riesling Riesling is a chameleon of a grape, able to produce world class wines that range from bone dry to unctuously sweet. Germany is most closely associated with Riesling, where all styles are made, and the range of flavors runs the gamut from steely and crisp with crunchy, mineral driven flavors to fresh lime, apple, and peach notes and beyond to the rich honied, candied fruit tones of the great dessert wines. Find more German Riesling Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Autumn is truly a great season for food and wine lovers.  As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to fall, we find ourselves craving the rich and hearty foods and wines that truly make life worth living.  Maybe it’s a creamy spiced squash bisque or a rich succulent braise that triggers those happy thoughts of good times and good friends.  For me it’s the foods of Northern Italy that always fit the bill.  One of my favorites is a pasta dish I mastered while working as a chef at T.H.O.R.: Fettuccine in truffle cream sauce. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce Not a dish you could eat every day or even every week but, when the cards are down and inhibitions are lifted, this is a plate that is sure to please with its bold flavors beautifully intertwined in an elegant, decedent, yet simply prepared sauce.  The woodsy, smoky and slightly salty flavors of the prosciutto combined with the fresh, sweet vegetal flavors of the peas, which balanced by the creamy sauce, wafts intoxicating aromas of truffles into the air.  The best part about this recipe is that the majority of the work is in the preparation, meaning you can prep your ingredients before your guests arrive, entertain them with a bubbly, and then return to the kitchen to finish the dish in literally 10 to 15 minutes. So what would you pair with such a dish?  I used this opportunity to experiment with Riesling, more specifically dry (trocken) Riesling from Germany, and I’m sure glad I did.  My theory was that the same lively acidity Riesling is known for would cut through the rich creaminess and intense flavors of the sauce, which it did in spades.  Also, Riesling is known for aromas and flavors different from most white wines, all of which added new dimensions to the truffle cream sauce.  For a dish such as this you would want to find a dry Riesling for its brisk acidity and citrus, mineral qualities.  Riesling is also known for being a wine that truly reflects the place in which it is grown.  This fact was truly apparent in the two wines I selected, as one was a single vineyard selection and the other a blend.  2006 Weingut Paulinshof Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken The single vineyard 2006 Weingut Paulinshof Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken sliced through the truffle cream sauce like a hot knife and added new dimensions to the sauce with it’s flavors of sour apple, orange zest, and hazelnut, leading to a sweet mid-palate with tongue curling acidity.  On the nose, it showed lime and melon, which managed to hold its own against the cream sauce’s heady aromas of truffle.  As you dig deeper the fruit is backed by the smell of chestnut, slate stone, and almond skins, which provide wonderful details and complexities.  This was everyone’s favorite of the night but, while not necessarily expensive, cost almost twice as much as the other wine. 2007 Peter Stolleis Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken The 2007 Peter Stolleis Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken was a light yellow straw in color with fresh aromas of peach nectar, lemon, and a bit of butter cookie.  The palate showed lemon rind and sweet pear but was all focused on the first impression with very little mid-palate performance.  The acidity was fresh and focused which did its job against the truffle cream sauce and followed through to a sour citrus finish.  Not a wine to think on but made for a wonderful simple sipper that paired well with the dinner and could have scored much higher in everyone’s book if it wasn’t evaluated against such stiff competition as the other wine. In the end, both Rieslings held their own and complimented the dinner quite well.  However, if it was up to me to make this again I would go for the 2006 Weingut Paulinshof simply because of its multiple levels of flavor and rich textures which truly complimented the decadence of the truffle cream sauce.  So next time you find yourself craving the finer things in life without spending hours in the kitchen, I invite you to try this recipe and pair it with a dry Riesling.  I think you’ll find it’s worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce.   Click here to download a printable PDF of this recipe. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce This recipe is all about planning and timing.  When working in fine dining, every plate is prepared separately in its own pan, no matter if the entire table orders the same thing.  However, at home, this would be nearly impossible, as you’d find yourself running out of burners very quickly.  I have adjusted my recipe, which was initially intended for a single plate for a party of four. When it comes to the truffles, look for white truffles.  If you have the funds to actually buy truffles for shaving over this dish then that’s great.  However, if you’d like to keep the cost of your meal outside of the stratospheric cost range, you can easily use truffle oil.  Be careful, though, when purchasing truffle oil by looking for a brand that has actual truffle in the oil, and stay away from anything that has ingredients that read “truffle flavoring.”  I use white truffle oil from Wild Forest Products. Lastly, a note on the prosciutto.  When you go to your butcher, ask for them to slice the prosciutto thick, about 1/8 of an inch.  At that size you will likely need about two slices for this recipe.  This will speed up your preparation.  Trim the fat and cut the prosciutto into a small dice. 1 lb bag of fettuccine (timing in recipe is for dry pasta) ¾ cup Prosciutto di Parma (small Dice) 1 cup peas (frozen is fine but go for a good quality brand) 1 shallot (fine dice) 3/4 cup white wine (if possible, use the same wine you are pairing) 1 cup vegetable stock 1 quart whipping cream (at room temperature) 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano (grated) 4 tbls butter (cubed) truffle oil (see recipe instructions for use) salt and pepper (to taste) fresh parsley (minced) 1 tbls. canola oil. Preparation Start a pot of salted boiling water.  This is not for the pasta; it’s for the peas.  Also have a bowl half filled with ice water to create an ice bath.  Place the peas into the boiling water and let them par-cook for 4 - 5 minutes until they turn a vibrant green.  Immediately strain them and throw the peas into the ice bath.  Strain them again and set them aside, covered, in your refrigerator. Heat sauté pan over medium heat and add about a tablespoon of canola oil.  Carefully use a paper towel to coat the pan with the oil.  Add the small dice of Prosciutto di Parma to the pan and cook off.  You’re looking for a toasted appearance on each side.  While the prosciutto is cooking, cover a plate with a paper towel (think about how you cook off bacon for Sunday breakfast.)  Once the prosciutto is toasted on each side, take off the heat and move onto the plated paper towel.  Set the prosciutto aside. Have all of your ingredients ready and close to the oven.  Place your serving plates in an oven at the lowest temperature (this will keep the sauce from breaking when you plate the food.) Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil for the pasta.     Place a large saucier or sauté pan over medium low heat.  Melt 2 tbls of the butter in the pan and add the shallots and season with salt.  Allow the shallots to sweat in the butter until they are translucent. Turn the heat up to medium and allow the pan’s temperature to come up, but be careful to not let the shallot take on any color.  Add the white wine and allow it to reduce.  As the white wine is reducing in the pan, add the pasta to the boiling pasta water and set your timer to 2 minutes short of the recommended cooking time. (You are now at the point of no return.) Add the stock and whipping cream to the saucepan and raise the heat to a medium high.  Stay close to the pan and continue to mix regularly to make sure that the cream is not burning on the bottom of the pan.  The idea is to reduce the cream by 1/3. After about four minutes, add the pre-cooked prosciutto to the pan and continue to reduce.  If reduction appears to be going too quickly then turn down the burner to medium low.   Taste and season lightly with salt. The timer for your pasta should go off about the same time as the cream has reduced to desired level. Pour the pasta into a colander and quickly rinse out the pot with hot water.  Place pan back on the stovetop over a low flame. Drizzle pasta with truffle oil and toss.  Then add the pasta back to the pot and pour the reduced cream sauce over the pasta along with the par-cooked peas and stir to combine. Turn off the burner and add half of the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and last two tbls of butter.  Stir to bring the sauce together and taste.  Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Remove the plates from the oven and portion the pasta out with tongs.  (Don’t worry about the sauce at this time because it will collect at the bottom of the pan.)  Once you have portioned out all of the pasta, use a ladle to sauce each plate from what is left at the bottom of the pot, making sure to distribute the peas and pieces of prosciutto evenly. Drizzle each plate with truffle oil.  (Be careful not to overdo it.  Truffle and truffle oil can go from good to overwhelming very quickly.) Then sprinkle with the remaining parmigiano and then with parsley. With a warm paper towel, clean the rim of the plates and serve. Learn more about German wine and Food Pairing: On Snooth Learn to Decipher German Wine Labels An easy guide to help you find Dry Riesling German wines, whose labels offer you all the detailed information you need to make a great selection, can be very intimidating. It’s time to make it a bit easier. In case you missed our recent article, it helps one learn how to tell dry wines from sweet and find a Riesling to match your needs. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce By: Eric Guido Autumn is truly a great season for food and wine lovers.  As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to fall, we find ourselves craving the rich and hearty foods and wines that truly make life worth living. For me it’s the foods of Northern Italy that always fit the bill.    (hide)

  From the article Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce

  
  

• October 2009

  Tasting Steaks and Red Wine With some surprising results With the weather rapidly changing, it’s just about time to put the grill away for the winter. Well not for all of us, but many will have to wait months to enjoy a great grilled steak once again. As a... Read more Tasting Steaks and Red Wine With some surprising results With the weather rapidly changing, it’s just about time to put the grill away for the winter. Well not for all of us, but many will have to wait months to enjoy a great grilled steak once again. As a final celebration for this grilling season, I spent a day gathering up provisions and several different cuts of meat in order to see what would be the most popular among a group of enthusiastic carnivores! Among the likely subjects were a New York strip steak, a Flank Steak, a Top Sirloin steak and, my favorite, a Flatiron Steak. All of the steaks were marinated in a simple blend of olive oil, red wine, onions and herbs for several hours, and then grilled over hardwood charcoal. The marinade was then used as a simple sauce base, prepared as the steaks cooked. The results were fantastic, with a unanimous winner among the steaks and a surprising wine to pair with them. What to expect: Pinotage Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, is considered to be one of the classic grapes from South Africa. It can produce a very distinctive wine with a hint of rubber on the nose that leads to a rather fruity palate, with notes of banana, plum and cherry. While the grape imay be high in tannins, the wine is produced in a broad range of styles. Find more Pinotage wines All of the steaks were cooked a fine medium rare over a hot, hardwood charcoal grill. The steaks were sliced and presented with the finished sauce on the side so everyone got a chance to try the meat alone and with the sauce. Some reserved marinade was also used as a dipping sauce, with garlic and additional herbs added to create a sort of Chimichurri sauce. The least favorite steak was the Flank steak. It was perfectly cooked with a nice chewy texture but with little marbling, it trailed in the flavor department. The next in line was the New York Strip streak, which was tender and tasty, but neither as tender not as tasty as other cuts. Our runner up? The top sirloin steak was excellent with a rich beefy flavor and chewy but not tough texture it worked well with the marinade and the sauces and benefitted from a bit of extra thickness allowing it to develop a nice char without any sign of overcooking. And the winner was, hands down, the Flatiron steak. Richly flavored, fat is flavor after all, yet meltingly tender it was a superb, succulent piece of meat that handled the infusion of flavor from the marinade effortlessly and stood up to the saucing without missing a beat. This lowly cut of meat, long a secret among foodies, is fast becoming a favorite, and more expensive too boot. It’s no surprise that the Flatiron steak won our little completion. It’s been determined by testing that this cut, from the inside of the shoulder, is the second most tender of the cow, second only to the tenderloin! Unlike many Filets however, the flatiron steak is rich in flavorful marbling and beefy flavor. Marinade serve two functions, infusing flavor and tenderizing tougher cuts of meat. The marinade I used includes a modest amount of red wine, which supplies acid as well as flavor, but relies on the oil to imbue the meat with layers of flavor. With a cut as tender as this you need to be careful not to over marinate the steak. Over marinating occurs when a cut is left in a marinade for too long but is also likely when that marinade is too acidic. To download a printable PDF file of this recipe click here. Red Wine and Herb Marinade In a nonreactive bowl combine thoroughly: 1 Cup Extra Virgin olive oil 1/3 Cup Red Wine 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley leaves, minced 2 tsp Fresh Rosemary leaves, minced 1 tbsp Fresh Oregano leaves 2 fresh bay Leaves ½ tsp Celery seed 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 2 tsp freshly cracked black peppercorns I like to let this marinade infuse overnight before using it. When ready to use, place the marinade and the steaks in a Ziploc bag. Expel as much air from the bag as you can while sealing it, and then thoroughly massage the meat to evenly distribute the seasoning. Allow to marinate in the refrigerator for 2-3 hours. About 30 minutes before you want to grill begin preparing the grill. I use direct heat for a flatiron steak since it’s relatively thin and I want a nice char on my rare to medium rare steak. Remove steak from marinade and wipe clean of most of the marinade solids. In a non-reactive saucepan heat the marinade to a simmer and cook until the volume is reduced by about 20%, approximately the amount of water based liquids in the pan. Once the water has cooked off the onions will begin to cook. I let them sauté until they have just begun to gain some color then remove the sauce from the heat and allow it to cool. Before service I add the juice of half a lemon and 2 tbsp of minced parsley leaves to help refresh the sauce. That is a very simple marinade and dipping sauce for steak that not only enhances the flavor of the meat but also builds a flavor bridge to any wine that will be served with this dish. We tried several wines with our steaks. The bold, young Zinfandel, 2006 Ridge Geyserville to be specific, was a solid match but its richness didn’t cut the richness of the steaks. In fact it worked best with the lean flank steak. Our Cabernet entry, the 2005 Silver Oak Alexander Valley, didn’t really stand up to our marinade though the herbal elements in the wine did bring out the herb notes from the marinade. This might be a better pairing for a broiled or pan seared version of this dish. Our winning wine was the 2006 Warwick Old Bush Vines Pinotage. With a deep smoky tone, bright acidity and reserves of jammy red toned strawberry fruits this offered both complimentary and contrasting notes that meshed perfectly with the steaks.  Perhaps a wine better served with food than without. And that was that. While we were grilling to celebrate the end of the season we were, in fact, breaking in a new grill. It was a successful inaugural fire and I look forward to following up with more grilling adventures, sooner or later. Red Wine and Grilled Steak: A Classic Pairing with a New Twist 2006 Warwick Old Bush Vines Pinotage Priced from $16.49 This has the classic banana tone on the nose that is typical of Pinotage, but it's backed up by wonderfully aromatic notes of smoke and leather with a dry, earthy tone. On the palate the sharp tannins and solid acidity of the wine support slightly chewy dried strawberry and raspberry fruit notes that lead to a long, savory finish Red Wine and Herb Marinade Great with Beef, Lamb and Wild Game Marinades serve two functions, infusing flavor and tenderizing tougher cuts of meat. The marinade I used for these steaks includes a modest amount of red wine, which supplies acid as well as flavor, but relies on the oil and herbs to imbue the meat with layers of flavor.    (hide)

  From the article The Great Steak Shootout

  
  

• October 2009

  2007 Sauvignon Blanc – Buy online in $12 only. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the classic wines of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley in France. California Sauvignon Blanc was first popularized by Napa Valley’s Robert Mondavi Winery in the late 1960s. A crisp refreshing wine with hints of... Read more2007 Sauvignon Blanc - Buy online in $12 only. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the classic wines of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley in France. California Sauvignon Blanc was first popularized by Napa Valley’s Robert Mondavi Winery in the late 1960s. A crisp refreshing wine with hints of green apple and pear. Recommended pairings include seafood, shellfish, and light pastas. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1001&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Merlot - Purchase online in $16 only. High-toned aromas of black cherry and blueberry with hints of cola. A smooth, silky texture brings flavors of black currant, blueberry, mocha, and vanilla cream. The finish is cool and velvety, with hints of blackberry and clove spice. "Youthful and juicy up front with cherry and licorice notes…finishing with red currant, spice, and roasted sage tannins..88pts" Wine Spectator. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1002&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon in $16 only. "This is the best value Cab in this price category that I've tasted in a long while.." Kathy Marcks Hardesty . Our 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and other wines reflect our commitment to crafting fine wines from our estate Margarita Vineyard in the Paso Robles wine country. We endeavor to craft the best California wine possible from each vintage, showcasing the flavors of Margarita Vineyard and the larger excellence of Paso Robles wine. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1005&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Syrah in $16 only. "Sleek and trim, this is medium-weight, with spice, mineral and ripe berry flavors that are long and lingering..87 pts" Wine Spectator . Warm plum and spice aromas with smoky-earthy nuances. The palate bursts forth with bright rounded flavors of black cherry, plum, cola, and mocha. The finish lingers with long fruit and supple tannins. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1003&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2007 Zinfandel in $16 only The 2007 Zinfandel opens with bright aromas of cherry, plum, and vanilla spice. Juicy flavors of raspberry, brambleberry, and black cherry unfold along a broad, seamless texture. Accents of black pepper add to a lively finish. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1010&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Malbec in $35 only Margarita Vineyard offers excellent growing conditions for our 36 acres of Malbec. At under 100 cases, this wine is available only in our tasting room and online store. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1006&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Petit Verdot in $35 only The 2006 Petit Verdot showcases Margarita Vineyard's ability to nuture the varietals signature color, racy flavors, and fresh natural acidity. At under 100 cases produced, this wine is only available in our tasting room and online store. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1007&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Petite Sirah in $35 only The 2006 Petite Sirah is loaded with exotic aromas of blueberry, cigar box, anise, white pepper and pomegranate. Luscious flavors of blackberry, black cherry, vanilla bean and cinnamon spice unfold along a big, chewy texture. Dusty tannins add structure to a long, juicy finish. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1008&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Oyster Ridge in $35 only This limited edition cuvee was crafted to honor the dramatic soils and distintive qualaties of the Margarita vineyard. 326 cases produced. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1009&cat_id=1    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Best Quality Red Wine, White... by ancientpeak

  
  

• September 2009

  Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir     Pairing vegetarian dishes with red wines is often like being dropped at a random lot in Tbilisi (true story).  Wine writers, tasters, and critics always scream, Meat! as the first red drop hits their tongues,... Read moreExperiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir     Pairing vegetarian dishes with red wines is often like being dropped at a random lot in Tbilisi (true story).  Wine writers, tasters, and critics always scream, Meat! as the first red drop hits their tongues, leaving me and nearly ten million other vegetarians in the US, with nowhere to turn.  And while I get the bits about tannins and proteins and fat, as a vegetarian, I see no reason to condemn myself to a life of white grape imprisonment.   As the temperature drops, the contents of my glass evolves from white and pink to red, while I reach for my Russian and Georgian cookbooks, in search of something transitional, that’ll lead me through the change.  And though not oft associated with vegetarian fare, these regions, along with the Mediterranean and Middle East, inspire the meatless meals that set our dining room table throughout the year.  With Georgia on my mind, I walk through the farmer’s market and stop before a display of green beans--dark in color, glistening, and piled high.  It’s been almost a year since I last cooked “Georgian Green Beans”, a dish that includes cilantro, onions, garlic and eggs, and so I buy a pound or so and take it home.  Before cooking or uncorking a bottle, I thumb through What to Drink with What you Eat, a brilliant tome by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, curious to see their suggested pairings for green beans and cilantro.  Locating my ingredients, I am not surprised to find only white wines.  And since I have none in my fridge and starving is not an option—nor is dinner without wine—I have to think quick and experiment with what I’ve got. Georgians traditionally use a lot of walnuts in their dishes, and walnuts, with their oily proteins and bitter finish, tend to pair well with the tannins in red wine.  And so, I turn to Please to the Table—the Russian Cookbook by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman, in search of some inspiration and find it in a recipe for a green bean and walnut salad. Sifting through a lifetime of pairings, I consider the fact that green beans are often served at Thanksgiving, as are sometimes walnuts.  With this in mind, I pull a bottle that had just arrived in the mail (courtesy of the winery itself)—Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007, because I think it might work, with the wine assuming the role of a mouth-watering enhancer, like Thanksgiving dinner’s cranberry sauce.  Light red fruit, tangy, and slightly sweet—the flavors I expect from a Pinot from Oregon—fruity but not as ripe as one from California, where the warmer climate yields riper grapes and wines with big fruit. I pop the cork and pour a glass and sure enough, there it is—tart fruit on the nose, red cherry, raspberry, and cranberry; a little earth and spice.  At 14.5% abv, there is a slight burn at the back of the throat, but not the full-on-blaze that I’d expected.  The finish is slightly bitter and astringent, like cranberry sauce, and after a few sips, I bite into a walnut, roll the flavors around my mouth, and…Yes.  The wine’s fruit and acidity tempers the walnut’s bitter finish…but cilantro?  I pull a few leaves from a sprig, take a sip, and tear into the herb with my teeth.  Suddenly two great waves rise in the midst of my kitchen, one cresting cilantro, and the other bright red fruit.  Opposite one another, the waves peak, fall into each other and crash—leaving a sopping wet mess on my floor.  Cilantro is out. Snapping a raw bean in two, I sense earth and herbal spice.  Raw, it is not a perfect match with the wine, but perhaps cooking might temper the flavors, or in the end, they might just pair better with an Old World Syrah.  Finally, since garlic=acidity, of which the wine has plenty, the recipe is adapted and I am ready to cook.   Green Bean Salad with Walnuts 1/2 cup ground walnuts 2 medium garlic cloves crushed 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon water 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound of trimmed green beans, cut in half 1/4 medium-sized red onion, sliced thin salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste --Combine walnuts, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, water, and oil.  Mix thoroughly and let stand for 30 minutes. --Boil enough salted water to cover the beans when added; then boil for as long as you like, no longer than 7 minutes.  Drain and cool in ice water. Drain and pat dry. --Toss beans with onion and add the dressing.  Season with salt and pepper, and toss again. (Adapted from Please to the Table—the Russian Cookbook by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman.) Pairing is a two-way street.  One route reflects how the wine affects the food and the other how the food alters, enhances, or neutralizes the wine.  My immediate reaction to this particular pairing is Yes. I love how the Pinot coaxes the acidity of the red wine vinegar from the dish, encouraging the salad to shine, until it’s so full of life that flavors are popping like fireworks in my mouth.  The green bean salad is suddenly illuminated, but in reverse, the walnut dressing coats the tongue, like a pair of shades on a sun-dazzle day.  It somehow reduces the wine’s fruit and acidity, which works if you, like me, are one who prefers your fruit with the volume turned down.  In this particular pairing, the sweet fruit of the wine is transferred to the dish, which establishes a relationship that involves a little sacrifice.  It’s an interesting and fun experiment that anyone with a little time on his or her hands can conduct at home.  It’s a pairing that serves to strengthen my resolve—this commitment to keep searching through ingredients, aromas, textures, and flavors until I find pairings that enhance both vegetarian dishes and red wines. By: Karen Ulrich Imbibe New York      (hide)

  From the article Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir

  
  

• September 2009

  The Vegetarian Dilemma A recent challenge presented to me was to cook a four-course Italian meal, with wine pairings, for a vegetarian group. It's not often that I'm asked to prepare a vegetarian dinner. Even being a recovering vegetarian myself, I still find it difficult to wrap... Read moreThe Vegetarian Dilemma A recent challenge presented to me was to cook a four-course Italian meal, with wine pairings, for a vegetarian group. It's not often that I'm asked to prepare a vegetarian dinner. Even being a recovering vegetarian myself, I still find it difficult to wrap my brain around a meal that excludes meat in all forms. Also, we often don't realize how many dishes contain meat as a secondary ingredient, such as a chicken stock added to a risotto or pancetta in any number of Italian sauces. Outside of the Vegetarian Italian theme, the cuisine itself was left entirely up to me. I decided to go to my favorite region in Italy, Piedmont. A trick to pairing food and wine is to match a traditional wine from one region with a traditional food from the same region. Also, cooking vegetarian is easy with Italian foods since so many of them are truly simple preparations that rely entirely on the quality of a small number of ingredients prepared just right. If you know the profile of an ingredient, namely its flavor, aroma and texture, then you can usually substitute it for something similar. In the end, experimentation can yield amazing results, but I would recommend experimenting on yourself or friends before getting too creative. First Course: Bagna Cauda If you love roasted garlic and olive oil then you haven’t lived until you’ve tried bagna cauda. However, creating bagna cauda for a vegetarian party presented a bit of a challenge since a key ingredient to this traditional Piedmont preparation is anchovies. The goal was to create a similar flavor profile that the anchovies would lend to the dish. This was accomplished through the addition of finely chopped capers, rosemary, and a small amount of red pepper flakes. The end result was so close that I could hardly notice the difference. The bagna cauda was presented with a selection of items to dip consisting of raw carrots, Belgian endive, cauliflower, sweet peppers, fennel, and cooked beets. Wine Pairing: Bartolo Mascarello, Freisa Nebbiolata 2005 The wine was a bit of a wildcard, being that this was the first time that I had ever tasted a Freisa, and I was honestly quite worried that the pairing may not work. So much so that an Arneis was kept in private reserve, just in case. However, my worries were for nothing. The wine played the perfect partner with its zippy acidity and bitterness that cut through the rich oil and roasted garlic flavors of the bagna cauda. So you think, wait a second, red wine against raw vegetables? And you’re right, if these veggies were on their own then this would never have worked. However, with the combination of the velvety, rich, sweet garlic flavors of the bagna cauda, it was a perfect match. The Freisa was a dark ruby red wine with a nose of vibrant strawberry, cherries, olives, and fall leaves. On the palate, it was full of cherry and cranberry fruit with earthy oak and a gorgeous bitter finish that begged you to take another sip. Second Course: Risotto ai tre pomodori (Three Tomato Risotto) A new recipe in my collection, and sure to have many repeat performances, is the Three Tomato Risotto. This plate presents an intense flavor profile of sweet and sour caramelized tomato, which is obtained through the mixture of a strained tomato vegetable stock, roasted baby plum tomatoes, and sun-dried tomatoes. Each addition adds different complexities and is all brought together by a healthy addition of wine, preferably the same wine you plan to pair with the plate. Wine Pairing: Giacomo Conterno, Barbera D’Alba 2006 In my opinion, one of the best wines to pair with a risotto is Barbera for it’s lively, nearly electric fresh fruitiness that’s mixed with dark earthy notes. I also find that Barbera is the perfect accompaniment to anything tomato. It’s as if they were made to go together. This pairing was no different; the barbera’s juicy acidity cut through the rich layers of creamy tomato and added dark, woodsy nuances that you must taste to believe. The nose is almost smoky with plum, savory broth, mushrooms, and moist earth. On it’s own, the wine is full-bodied with raspberry, fig, more mushroom, and a sweet mid-palate of red fruit that carries this wine’s brisk acidity to the end. The finish is long and fresh with cherry and cedar. You cannot go wrong with this combination. Third Course: Robiola Due Latte & Parmigiano-Reggiano with poached figs and Italian plums. This plate is all about contrasts that work together to create harmonious flavors. Each item on its own is delectable, but when placed together they form complexities and a unity of flavors that excite and please the senses. One of the greatest cheeses coming out of Northwest Italy is Robiola: a soft rind cheese that coats the palate with a lush tangy and mildly sour flavor that ends with roasted nuts and earthy forest notes. When plated with any semi-sweet accompaniment, it really comes to life and accentuates the sweetness of that item, in this case, poached figs, Italian plums, and a Nebbiolo wine from a very ripe vintage. The Parmigiano-Reggiano is a complete opposite with a sharper, saltier fruit and nut flavor profile. It’s dressed with just a drizzle of 25-year-old acceto balsamico, which lends sweet wood and dark fruit notes. As the tasters work their way around this plate, their palates are constantly engaged by the drastic changes in sweet, salty and, sour. Wine Pairing: Aldo Conterno, Il Favot 2003 As for the wine, it showed a dark red color in the glass with aromas wafting up into the room after pouring into decanter. Everyone sat around waiting to take the official sniff. This bottle was open for three hours before serving and showed aromas of raspberry jam, roses, forest floor, mulling spices, and new leather. This is one of those Nebbiolos that you can smell, never taste, and still feel satisfied. On the palate, the flavors consist of blackberries and licorice with raisin, earth, leather, cinnamon, and a bit of charred wood on the finish, which is long with a tannic kiss. The combination with the cheese plate keeps the austere finish in check as the creamy texture of the Robiola coats the mouth or the salty sweet flavors of the Parmigiano-Reggiano makes it water. . Dessert: Torta di nocciole with Zabaglione al caffé nero. When left to my own devises I tend to stray from traditional dessert course, but in this case it was requested. So what better way to show off Piedmont than with a dessert made primarily from Hazelnuts. The flavor profile of this succulent dessert is a mix of hazelnut, citrus, and dark chocolate in a moist, not too sweet, cake. Paired with an Espresso Zabaglione and spiked with Marsala wine, this is not a dessert for the uninitiated. The two parts (amazing on their own) paired perfectly together to create a vibrant, powerful combination. After a successful evening, it was time to sit back and enjoy a few glasses of wine myself. It was fulfilling to have created a fine dining vegetarian meal that managed to retain the rich complexities and satisfying flavors of Northern Italy. And so there I sat with a glass of the 2003 Il Favot, happy to do nothing more than enjoy its enticing aromas for minutes on end.   Risotto ai tre pomodori (Three Tomato Risotto) Serves four as a main course. 2 c strained tomatoes (Go for Imported San Marzano) 8 – 10 Sundried tomatoes (not marinated) diced 12 baby plum tomatoes ¼ c Olive oil 4 c vegetable broth 8 tbls (unsalted) butter cut into 6 pieces 1 sweet onion (fine dice) 2 c vialone nano (risotto rice) 2/3 c Red Wine (use the same wine you plan to pair with the meal) ½ c grated Parmigiano-Reggiano ½ c chiffonade of basil (cut at the very last moment) Salt and pepper to taste 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. In a bowl add the baby plum tomatoes, a healthy pinch of salt and cracked pepper. Pour ¼ cup of olive oil over the tomatoes and stir lightly to coat. Place tomatoes on the sheet pan making sure to leave space between them. 2. Pour the Strained tomatoes and 4 cups of vegetable stock into a pot and stir till they come together. Place over low heat. 3. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat. Add half the butter to this pan and allow it to melt and coat the bottom. Add the onion and sundried tomatoes. Season lightly with salt and stir to coat with the butter. Cook until onions turn translucent. 4. Place the Plum tomatoes into the oven and set a timer for 20 minuets. 5. Bring your attention back to the sauté pan. Add the rice to the pan and stir. Allow the rice to toast slightly but do not allow it to take on any color. 6. Add the wine and stir. Allow the wine to cook down and reduce. 7. Add a ladle full of warm stock and stir. (From this point an average risotto will take about 19 minutes.) 8. Continue to stir and add ladle after ladle of the stock each time the rice begins to dry out. I look for the point that trails begin to form when stirred to add more stock. 9. After about 10 minutes, season lightly with salt. You’re a little over half done. 10. When the timer goes off for the Plum tomatoes, pull them from the oven. This is also a good time to taste your risotto. The rice should be almost done, probably a bit too firm. Continue to add stock slowly and stir. 11. Once the rice has reach al dente, slight crunch to the rice, turn off the heat. Add half of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and half of the remaining butter and a small amount of left over stock. Stir to bring the rice together. 12. Add half of the basil. Taste and season with salt and pepper. You can add the remaining butter if necessary to obtain the desired texture. 13. When you’re happy with the flavor, plate by splitting it up between four bowls. Place three of the baby plum tomatoes on top of each bowl of rice. Sprinkle with the remaining basil and then the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano and serve.    (hide)

  From the article The Vegetarian Dilemma

  
  

• September 2009

  Frittata Gran Paradiso and a Luxurious Rosé A study of complementary wine and food pairing After tasting several Roses last week I was struck by how perfect each one would be for a specific dish I had in mind.  Some were obviously light and bright, perfect... Read more Frittata Gran Paradiso and a Luxurious Rosé A study of complementary wine and food pairing After tasting several Roses last week I was struck by how perfect each one would be for a specific dish I had in mind.  Some were obviously light and bright, perfect for salad or seafood; others had some real depth and heft, making them the right choice for chicken or pork dishes. One wine really made me think, it was lightly smoky, putting me in a bacony state of mind.  It was also so soft and luxurious that I could easily see it being dominated by assertive dishes so my thoughts ran to like foods. After all, one of the food and wine paring principles I adhere to is to either compliment or contrast the wine and food. This was definitely a case for complimenting. And then it hit me. This wine was a brunch wine, a wonderful way to greet the day with a nice quiche, or in my case frittata. A touch of bacon, a touch of Italian Fontina and we were on our way. Smoky to smoky, soft and luxurious to soft and luxurious.  Ladies and gentlemen, we have ourselves a winner. What to expect: Rosé Rosé wines are made from red grapes that have had the period of "skin contact" reduced to limit the extraction of color, tannin and certain flavoring compounds. The results range from barely copper colored to vividly ruby toned, light bodied wines with crisp fruit flavors that often recall watermelon and red berried fruit. Search for great Rosés on Snooth Being of Italian origin I tend to prefer the Italian version of many French dishes, Pizza instead of Pissadaliere, Pesto in place of Pistou, and a an easy Frittata in place of a Quiche. Being practical I also see the value in keeping some of the elements of a recipe that has proven to work. In this case bacon and cheese, the stuff that makes that Quiche Lorraine so Lorraine They are  a natural match for a quick and easy preparation. I usually have some Italian Fontina lying around but you should feel comfortable with any cheese you prefer. Following the technique of the recipe is more important than using the exact ingredients, so be creative and create the Frittata that will make you happy. This version makes me happy and in a nod, almost, to France I’ve named this frittata: Gran Paradiso. Frittata Gran Paradiso Ingredients 1 Tbsp butter ¼ tsp finely ground black pepper pinch of salt 6 eggs, beaten 1/3 cup crumbled or cut bacon, (fry off the bacon to your liking before measuring it)   1 cup Italian Fontina cheese, shredded ½ cup thinly sliced green onions Technique Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a medium mixing bowl, beat the eggs, black pepper and salt together. Heat a 12-inch sauté pan, over medium heat. When it’s hot add the butter and allow it to melt. When the butter has begun to simmer add the bacon and toss to coat, then add the egg mixture. With a wooden spoon stir the cheese and green onions into the egg mixture. Continue stirring until the bottom of the mixture begins to set. Remove the sauté pan from the stove and place it in the top third of the preheated oven. Bake for approximately 10 minute or until the eggs are firm. Allow the frittata to cool somewhat before plating so that it firms up slightly. Pairing a soft and luxurious wine with a soft and luxurious dish 2007 Shoestring Rose of Syrah Santa Ynez Valley 13.3% Priced from $22.00 Really coppery colored. Light aromatics are faintly smoky and meaty with some nuanced floral hints supporting notes of raspberry and cherry with a suggestion of tropical, orange toned fruits. The nice, mouth filling, yet soft texture is very attractive and supports gentle notes of herbal tinged baked orange and cranberry. Frittata Gran Paradiso A rich yet delicate Frittata inspired by Quiche Lorraine This frittata has the soul of a Quiche Lorraine yet forgoes the crust and turns out to be an easy compliment to Sunday brunch or a great addition to a buffet meal. I prefer to serve the frittata still warm from the oven. The aromas of bacon and aromatic Fontina val d’Aostana can be absolutely intoxicating and are worth the minimal effort required for this dish.    (hide)

  From the article Frittata Gran Paradiso and a Rose

  
  

• August 2009

  Tasted at the end of spring/beginning of summer a 2007 Domaine Durieu Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Lucille Avril". Got a couple bottles for a little bit north of $40. Deep purple color, even opaque, lots of dark berries, licorice, earthy, very good structure and length. I assume a high... Read moreTasted at the end of spring/beginning of summer a 2007 Domaine Durieu Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Lucille Avril". Got a couple bottles for a little bit north of $40. Deep purple color, even opaque, lots of dark berries, licorice, earthy, very good structure and length. I assume a high proportion of grenache from, I believe, old vines. That bottle was what made me ask in an earlier thread about a review of 2007 Rhones by Snooth at some point... So a question, here. How would you classify the following makers' versions of Neuf du Papes, Greg, on a tarted-up oaky fruitbomb scale: --Bosquets des Papes --Clos des Papes --Pierre Usseglio --Chateau Beaucastel --Chateau de la Nerthe --Domaine de Marcoux --Domaine de la Solitude --Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe --Tardieu-Laurent --Clos du Mont Olivet --Domaine de la Janasse --Domaine de la Mordoree --Domaine de Saint-Prefert --Domaine Giraud --Domaine Grand Veneur --Domaine Roger Sabon The list could go on, of course, but I'll stop here. Would be interested to hear about any you've tasted, and of course several of them have multiple versions. Oh, and some good 2007 Cotes du Rhones I've already had include 2007 Dom. de Piaugier Cotes du Rhone "Sablet", and 2007 Domaine Le Colombier Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes. The former grenache and syrah, with a massive nose and meaty palate (from the syrah, I assume). The latter grenache and mourvedre, showing (like the Durieu above) very dense color with fresh shiitake, wildflowers and blueberries on the nose and palate with a long finish. Both medium to full bodied with good balance. In the $15 to $20 range. They were perfect BBQ wines, and more...    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Chateauneuf-du-pape... by dmcker

  
  

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