Bright green

• October 2009

  Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese Karen UlrichIMBIBE NEW YORK Tucked away just south of Mâcon, at the tail end of Burgundy, sits Beaujolais—the oft neglected, yet vigorous region devoted to the red grape Gamay.  Capable of producing... Read moreExperiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese Karen UlrichIMBIBE NEW YORK Tucked away just south of Mâcon, at the tail end of Burgundy, sits Beaujolais—the oft neglected, yet vigorous region devoted to the red grape Gamay.  Capable of producing as much wine a year as the entire region of Burgundy, Beaujolais is typically associated with the November release of its potentially reputation-scaring Beaujolais Nouveau—a light and fruity simple red wine that’s meant to be drunk just months after it’s bottled.  But if this isn’t to one’s liking, one should continue north, with her eyes on the horizon beyond the practices of carbonic maceration, chaptalization (the addition of sugar to increase the alcohol level or abv) and short fermentation; past the rich, cool limestone and clay of Bas Beaujolais, and across the Nizerand River where the soil, landscape, and wine, undergo great change. Here, one will see the flat plains of the south give way to rolling hills of granite schist, where the vines receive more singular attention, and Burgundian-like wine making is practiced.  There are 38 communes classified as Beaujolais-Villages, and ten crus, including—Julienas, Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon, Brouilly and Fleurie.  And while some age-worthy wines are produced in these appellations, these are not the wines around which I created my vegetarian recipes this month.  Since most meatless dishes stem from healthy peasant stock, I chose to harness this spirit by choosing affordable wines ($15 or less) that are suitable to drink and pair with the everyday meal. Why Beaujolais?   It’s a wine that many Americans bring to the Thanksgiving table, just a heartbeat away.  And while the traditional turkey fare of this meal doesn’t interest me, a light bodied, red wine with low tannins and high acidity is a dream to pair in the Vegetarian kitchen. For the recipes I began with a list of vegetarian ingredients that are known to pair well with Beaujolais or Gamay—fennel, onion, leeks, potato, eggs, capers, bell peppers, nuts, pumpkin, salad and cheeses that include cheddar, feta, and Swiss.  And then I uncorked a bottle of 2008 Beaujolais L’Ancien Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees.   It’s an exception from Sud Beaujolais, because Jean-Paul uses natural yeasts, minimal or no chaptalization or filtering, and little sulfites.  When poured, subtle aromas of red cherry—slightly candied—and earth rise from the glass, and when sipped, the red fruits (cherry and cranberry) are wholly integrated with the other elements.  The finish is dry and earthy, and the acidity lingers straight through to the end.  It’s super refreshing, especially when served slightly chilled, at 54-59 degrees.  For this bottle I created a dish of roasted green beans, red onion, feta, and hardboiled eggs, with a dressing of olive oil, lemon, garlic, and coriander and cumin.  It’s a perfect match.  The wine retains its bright fruit and acidity without biting back, while the lemon compliments the wine’s acidity.  And though the pairing is harmonious, there’s a silent display of fireworks that illuminates both fruit and acidity, like a torch in a cave.  On the finish, the wine follows in the footsteps of the suggestive dressing, developing notes of spice. My second pairing failed miserably, both as a recipe and with the wine.  I’ll only mention that it included capers, feta, roasted red peppers, broccoli, and toasted walnuts; and that it didn’t work—it’s a tinny combination that turns the Beaujolais tangy and astringent, like under-ripe fruit. Thankfully, recipe number three—Butternut Mac and Cheese—is delightful, though it took a few attempts to get the oven times, textures, and temperatures right. To download a printable PDF of this recipe please follow this link. Butternut Mac and Cheese 1 medium butternut squash (3 lbs.) 3 tbs. olive oil 2 cups of chopped onions 1 lb. pasta, cooked al dente 2 tbs. butter 1/2 cup whole milk 1/2 cup heavy cream 4 cups grated cheese (I used 3 cheddar and 1 cup brought from Amsterdam by Lee) 1/8 tsp. nutmeg 1 1/2 tbs. salt pepper to taste grated Parmesan cheese Preheat the oven at 450˚, cut butternut squash in half, and place it facedown on an oiled sheet.  Bake for 45 minutes, remove from the oven, let the squash cool, and scoop out the flesh. In a pan, heat 2 tbs. of oil, and cook the onions until they’re sweaty—still a bit firm and crunchy—approximately 5 minutes. Mix the onions in a bowl together with the reserved squash, milk and cream, grated cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Toss the al dente pasta with 2 tbs. of butter and combine this with the mix. Pour into an ungreased 9x11 (or 9x13) pan and bake uncovered for 15 minutes at 400˚.  Serve hot. The end result is creamy with contrasting flavors—the sweet and salty earth of the squash; the onions, slightly firm and candied, pop against a background of creamy savory cheese—it’s hearty and healthy, whether eaten alone or with a salad of baby greens and mustard vinaigrette dressing.  The first time I prepared this dish, I paired it with 2008 Beaujolais-Villages La Lutine Domaine Des Terres Vivantes—a wine with smoky minerality and a petticoat of cherry.  It’s silky, and slightly floral with fruit that lingers on the finish; and as the wind blew through my window, wafts of fruit rose from the glass that sat on the table beside me.  I love the minerality on the nose, and when paired with the first round of Butternut Mac and Cheese, La Lutine compliments the squash, rendering it sweet and fruity.  The sweaty onions are lively and the cherry flavors in the wine are highlighted against a backdrop of cheddar cheese.  The pairing is like two new lovers walking hand in hand beneath a canopy of fall colored leaves; the couple not yet wholly integrated after years in each other’s company—each maintaining harmonious but separate identities. For the second round, I opened a bottle of 2007 Château du Chatelard Beaujolais-Villages Vielles Vignes—a more mature Beaujolais, both in age and texture.  Here, one finds dark cherries sprinkled on a damp forest floor.  While the acidity is not electric, it’s enough to keep the rustic tannins in check.  Near the finish, the fruit goes back in time, to appear—if only for a moment—once again young.  And while I enjoy but do not love the wine on it’s own, it pairs perfectly with the Butternut Mac and Cheese. As with the last bottle, the wine accentuates the sweetness of the dish.  The tannins that once seemed somewhat out of place, are replaced with clove spice; and the earthy elements of the wine now have a role with purpose.  The onions, squash, and nutmeg are earthy and sweet, and the wine compliments these notes returning in kind, a love letter stamped with earth and fruit.     (hide)

  From the article Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese

  
  

• October 2009

  2007 Sauvignon Blanc – Buy online in $12 only. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the classic wines of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley in France. California Sauvignon Blanc was first popularized by Napa Valley’s Robert Mondavi Winery in the late 1960s. A crisp refreshing wine with hints of... Read more2007 Sauvignon Blanc - Buy online in $12 only. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the classic wines of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley in France. California Sauvignon Blanc was first popularized by Napa Valley’s Robert Mondavi Winery in the late 1960s. A crisp refreshing wine with hints of green apple and pear. Recommended pairings include seafood, shellfish, and light pastas. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1001&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Merlot - Purchase online in $16 only. High-toned aromas of black cherry and blueberry with hints of cola. A smooth, silky texture brings flavors of black currant, blueberry, mocha, and vanilla cream. The finish is cool and velvety, with hints of blackberry and clove spice. "Youthful and juicy up front with cherry and licorice notes…finishing with red currant, spice, and roasted sage tannins..88pts" Wine Spectator. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1002&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon in $16 only. "This is the best value Cab in this price category that I've tasted in a long while.." Kathy Marcks Hardesty . Our 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and other wines reflect our commitment to crafting fine wines from our estate Margarita Vineyard in the Paso Robles wine country. We endeavor to craft the best California wine possible from each vintage, showcasing the flavors of Margarita Vineyard and the larger excellence of Paso Robles wine. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1005&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Syrah in $16 only. "Sleek and trim, this is medium-weight, with spice, mineral and ripe berry flavors that are long and lingering..87 pts" Wine Spectator . Warm plum and spice aromas with smoky-earthy nuances. The palate bursts forth with bright rounded flavors of black cherry, plum, cola, and mocha. The finish lingers with long fruit and supple tannins. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1003&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2007 Zinfandel in $16 only The 2007 Zinfandel opens with bright aromas of cherry, plum, and vanilla spice. Juicy flavors of raspberry, brambleberry, and black cherry unfold along a broad, seamless texture. Accents of black pepper add to a lively finish. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1010&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Malbec in $35 only Margarita Vineyard offers excellent growing conditions for our 36 acres of Malbec. At under 100 cases, this wine is available only in our tasting room and online store. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1006&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Petit Verdot in $35 only The 2006 Petit Verdot showcases Margarita Vineyard's ability to nuture the varietals signature color, racy flavors, and fresh natural acidity. At under 100 cases produced, this wine is only available in our tasting room and online store. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1007&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Petite Sirah in $35 only The 2006 Petite Sirah is loaded with exotic aromas of blueberry, cigar box, anise, white pepper and pomegranate. Luscious flavors of blackberry, black cherry, vanilla bean and cinnamon spice unfold along a big, chewy texture. Dusty tannins add structure to a long, juicy finish. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1008&cat_id=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2006 Oyster Ridge in $35 only This limited edition cuvee was crafted to honor the dramatic soils and distintive qualaties of the Margarita vineyard. 326 cases produced. http://www2.ibgcheckout.com/ancientpeaks/catalog/view_product.jsp?product_id=1009&cat_id=1    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Best Quality Red Wine, White... by ancientpeak

  
  

• October 2009

  The Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the... Read moreThe Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the village of Verduno. Monvigliero is the pinnacle of their craft, but the more approachable Neirane, also from Verduno, serves as a great introduction to both the house style and the alluringly different wines of Verduno. In addition to these two, rather unique olive and herb scented wines, Burlotto also produces an exemplary Barolo Cannubi as well as a full range of other red varieties. This evening I was more interested in the four wines in front of me, the 1995 Monvigliero and Neirane, as well as the 1996 Cannubi and Neriane. Each bottle performed splendidly, expressing not only the vintages character, but also the terroir of each vineyard beautifully. These are wines that can be deceptive in their youth, seemingly lean and sometimes more savory than fruity but with time their inner beauty is revealed. The balance and freshness of Burlotto Barolo, in fact all of their wines, is a testament not only to the traditional ways of wine production, but also to the care and attention the family focuses on each step in the winemaking process. These may not be wines for everyone, but their natural transparency and pure expression of terroir strike a chord with me and I urge anyone with an interest in Piedmontese wines to sample a few. Don’t be too quick to judge the wines of Burlotto though. Like all the best of Piemonte, they take a bit of time to  open up and reveal themselves but once they do you can’t help but love their honesty, generosity and authenticity.   For more information on Burlotto, the wines and techniques involved please see: Step back in time with Commendatore G.B. Burlotto   1995 Burlotto Barolo Neirane This opens like a remarkable example of Cote Rotie with notes of olives, flowers, red raspberry fruit and an undertone of dried strawberry. With air notes of tar and tobacco emerge and add complexity. In the mouth this is somewhat small scaled but with great focus in a smooth, medium full bodies style with supple wild cherry fruit and light spice tones on the mid-palate that yield to notes of citron and strawberry on the finish. A very fine bottle at maturity with a balanced yet fleshy feel 91pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Neirane The bright aromatic of this wine are full of heather, licorice, smoke, olive brine and menthol notes but the fruit is still a bit reticent. In the mouth one finds superbly fine-grained tannins that are powerful but balanced by notes of white clay, leather and incipient dark raspberry fruits. This offers beautiful precision but remains a bit tight and coy on the palate. I like where this is going though and the aromatics hint that we are almost there.. 92pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Simply wonderful aromatics that ranged from lilacs, to seared cherry, hot rocks, to roses, orange peel, earth and spice all around a core of sweet red fruit. In the mouth there is superb balance with succulent mineral notes and clear, if fairly rich and quite tannic, faceted fruit. The fruit grows in the glass revealing exceptional intensity and purity with significant upside potential. 93pts   1995 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Intense notes of incense and candlewax immediately emerge from the glass joined by dark, smoky, slightly jammy fruits with complicating notes of fish sauce, underbrush, tapenade, thyme and olive oil. In the mouth he tannins are delicate and light if abundant giving the wine a velvety texture. The rosehip and wild cherry fruit is framed by vitamin like mineral notes and a wonderful inner mouth perfume of roses and tapenade. Still youthful this is emerging from its shell and has a very promising future. 93pts.   Below are notes on wines I tasted with winemaker Fabio Alessandria  this past May. Many are just now arriving in the marketplace. 2008 Burlotto Pelaverga Aromatics are intense and deep with penetrating, minerally focus that carries over to the palate. Cranberry fruit on the palate is paired with the intense minerality giving this a downright steely quality but it does lack some of the intensity of the 2007. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Barbera d’Alba Huge, soaring aromatics are captured here with note of cold earth, pollen, wild animale notes and slightly spicy notes of black-fruited hard candy. In the mouth this is perfectly proportioned with deep, lively fruit a hint of round tannin and snappy acids. The finish is dominated by the acids but with excellent length and reverb. Super Barbera. 90pts 2007 Burlotto Freisa Lightly smoky on the nose with an exotic boysenberry coulis note that is countered by dark aromatic spice roots and a hint of leafy geranium. The mouthfeel is both transparent and mouthcoating with a hint of bitterness on the mid-palate. The tannins are pretty big but ripe enough that they already begin to melt away on the finish, which is tarry and spiced with floral tones that compliment the dark plummy red fruits. This is better on the nose at this point. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Nebbiolo Fresh and herbal on the nose with a sandy underlay and suggestions of briary wood and wildflowers adding detail. Huge acidity in the mouth is followed by a wave of fruit and perfectly ripe tannins. The midpalate is laced with minerality that adds cut and definition to the wild cherry and watermelon fruit that gains some pomegranate depth on the back end. This finishes strongly with excellent length and an almost salty, mineral finale. 90pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi Balsamic on the nose with complex aromas of church candle, bay leaf, chalk and wild berry fruits. Nervous with fine-grained tannins in the mouth that frame slightly spice sweet red fruit notes. The feel is wonderfully fresh in the mouth and strikingly transparent though one could wish for a bit more richness to the fruit.  89pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Leathery and slightly bretty on the nose with a deep gamy element that contrasts against the sweet dark fruits of the nose Notes of olive brine, mortadella and carnations emerge from the glass with air. Soft and suave in the mouth with a rich core of spiced fruit supported by great acids that keep this taut and tense. Great camphor tinged cherry fruit in the mouth conceals a bed of ripe tannins. A very well balanced 2005. 93pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Deep and dark on the nose with fruit, heather, dried grass and hints of grilled meats, cinnamon and green anise seed adding great detail. In the mouth this is very classic Barolo with clear acids and assertive if polished tannins supporting the slightly leathery, bright amarena cherry tinged fruit. Fine balance and great length but this is really a bit tight at this point 91pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi A lovely nose of floral tones with savory hints of oregano, olive oil and sundried tomato. In the mouth his is sapid and round with soft tannins and sweet fruit on the palate with hints of fresh green herbs adding detail. The wine is still very tight but well balanced with strawberry fruits and fine, well proportioned structure.  88-90pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Wonderfully aromatic already with precise raspberry fruit framed by hints of campfire, saffron, baked clay and a slight underbrush tone. In the mouth thios is crystal clear with a lean yet very precise feel to the candied red raspberry flavors. The structure is very finely balanced and the tannins are perfectly ripe leading to a fine, long taut finish. An excellent wine in the making 91-94pts      (hide)

  From the article A dinner with the wines of Burlotto

  
  

• September 2009

  Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir     Pairing vegetarian dishes with red wines is often like being dropped at a random lot in Tbilisi (true story).  Wine writers, tasters, and critics always scream, Meat! as the first red drop hits their tongues,... Read moreExperiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir     Pairing vegetarian dishes with red wines is often like being dropped at a random lot in Tbilisi (true story).  Wine writers, tasters, and critics always scream, Meat! as the first red drop hits their tongues, leaving me and nearly ten million other vegetarians in the US, with nowhere to turn.  And while I get the bits about tannins and proteins and fat, as a vegetarian, I see no reason to condemn myself to a life of white grape imprisonment.   As the temperature drops, the contents of my glass evolves from white and pink to red, while I reach for my Russian and Georgian cookbooks, in search of something transitional, that’ll lead me through the change.  And though not oft associated with vegetarian fare, these regions, along with the Mediterranean and Middle East, inspire the meatless meals that set our dining room table throughout the year.  With Georgia on my mind, I walk through the farmer’s market and stop before a display of green beans--dark in color, glistening, and piled high.  It’s been almost a year since I last cooked “Georgian Green Beans”, a dish that includes cilantro, onions, garlic and eggs, and so I buy a pound or so and take it home.  Before cooking or uncorking a bottle, I thumb through What to Drink with What you Eat, a brilliant tome by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, curious to see their suggested pairings for green beans and cilantro.  Locating my ingredients, I am not surprised to find only white wines.  And since I have none in my fridge and starving is not an option—nor is dinner without wine—I have to think quick and experiment with what I’ve got. Georgians traditionally use a lot of walnuts in their dishes, and walnuts, with their oily proteins and bitter finish, tend to pair well with the tannins in red wine.  And so, I turn to Please to the Table—the Russian Cookbook by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman, in search of some inspiration and find it in a recipe for a green bean and walnut salad. Sifting through a lifetime of pairings, I consider the fact that green beans are often served at Thanksgiving, as are sometimes walnuts.  With this in mind, I pull a bottle that had just arrived in the mail (courtesy of the winery itself)—Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007, because I think it might work, with the wine assuming the role of a mouth-watering enhancer, like Thanksgiving dinner’s cranberry sauce.  Light red fruit, tangy, and slightly sweet—the flavors I expect from a Pinot from Oregon—fruity but not as ripe as one from California, where the warmer climate yields riper grapes and wines with big fruit. I pop the cork and pour a glass and sure enough, there it is—tart fruit on the nose, red cherry, raspberry, and cranberry; a little earth and spice.  At 14.5% abv, there is a slight burn at the back of the throat, but not the full-on-blaze that I’d expected.  The finish is slightly bitter and astringent, like cranberry sauce, and after a few sips, I bite into a walnut, roll the flavors around my mouth, and…Yes.  The wine’s fruit and acidity tempers the walnut’s bitter finish…but cilantro?  I pull a few leaves from a sprig, take a sip, and tear into the herb with my teeth.  Suddenly two great waves rise in the midst of my kitchen, one cresting cilantro, and the other bright red fruit.  Opposite one another, the waves peak, fall into each other and crash—leaving a sopping wet mess on my floor.  Cilantro is out. Snapping a raw bean in two, I sense earth and herbal spice.  Raw, it is not a perfect match with the wine, but perhaps cooking might temper the flavors, or in the end, they might just pair better with an Old World Syrah.  Finally, since garlic=acidity, of which the wine has plenty, the recipe is adapted and I am ready to cook.   Green Bean Salad with Walnuts 1/2 cup ground walnuts 2 medium garlic cloves crushed 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon water 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound of trimmed green beans, cut in half 1/4 medium-sized red onion, sliced thin salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste --Combine walnuts, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, water, and oil.  Mix thoroughly and let stand for 30 minutes. --Boil enough salted water to cover the beans when added; then boil for as long as you like, no longer than 7 minutes.  Drain and cool in ice water. Drain and pat dry. --Toss beans with onion and add the dressing.  Season with salt and pepper, and toss again. (Adapted from Please to the Table—the Russian Cookbook by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman.) Pairing is a two-way street.  One route reflects how the wine affects the food and the other how the food alters, enhances, or neutralizes the wine.  My immediate reaction to this particular pairing is Yes. I love how the Pinot coaxes the acidity of the red wine vinegar from the dish, encouraging the salad to shine, until it’s so full of life that flavors are popping like fireworks in my mouth.  The green bean salad is suddenly illuminated, but in reverse, the walnut dressing coats the tongue, like a pair of shades on a sun-dazzle day.  It somehow reduces the wine’s fruit and acidity, which works if you, like me, are one who prefers your fruit with the volume turned down.  In this particular pairing, the sweet fruit of the wine is transferred to the dish, which establishes a relationship that involves a little sacrifice.  It’s an interesting and fun experiment that anyone with a little time on his or her hands can conduct at home.  It’s a pairing that serves to strengthen my resolve—this commitment to keep searching through ingredients, aromas, textures, and flavors until I find pairings that enhance both vegetarian dishes and red wines. By: Karen Ulrich Imbibe New York      (hide)

  From the article Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir

  
  
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  September 2009

  Ironstone Chardonnay 2007

  Snoothrank: Starting at $8^.49

  Bright green apples, with some other lighter luscious fruits on the nose. Light acid, kindof bitter, and mild minerally mouth. This is a pretty good wine... for shit.

  Wine review by troyconquer

  
  

• September 2009

  Frittata Gran Paradiso and a Luxurious Rosé A study of complementary wine and food pairing After tasting several Roses last week I was struck by how perfect each one would be for a specific dish I had in mind.  Some were obviously light and bright, perfect... Read more Frittata Gran Paradiso and a Luxurious Rosé A study of complementary wine and food pairing After tasting several Roses last week I was struck by how perfect each one would be for a specific dish I had in mind.  Some were obviously light and bright, perfect for salad or seafood; others had some real depth and heft, making them the right choice for chicken or pork dishes. One wine really made me think, it was lightly smoky, putting me in a bacony state of mind.  It was also so soft and luxurious that I could easily see it being dominated by assertive dishes so my thoughts ran to like foods. After all, one of the food and wine paring principles I adhere to is to either compliment or contrast the wine and food. This was definitely a case for complimenting. And then it hit me. This wine was a brunch wine, a wonderful way to greet the day with a nice quiche, or in my case frittata. A touch of bacon, a touch of Italian Fontina and we were on our way. Smoky to smoky, soft and luxurious to soft and luxurious.  Ladies and gentlemen, we have ourselves a winner. What to expect: Rosé Rosé wines are made from red grapes that have had the period of "skin contact" reduced to limit the extraction of color, tannin and certain flavoring compounds. The results range from barely copper colored to vividly ruby toned, light bodied wines with crisp fruit flavors that often recall watermelon and red berried fruit. Search for great Rosés on Snooth Being of Italian origin I tend to prefer the Italian version of many French dishes, Pizza instead of Pissadaliere, Pesto in place of Pistou, and a an easy Frittata in place of a Quiche. Being practical I also see the value in keeping some of the elements of a recipe that has proven to work. In this case bacon and cheese, the stuff that makes that Quiche Lorraine so Lorraine They are  a natural match for a quick and easy preparation. I usually have some Italian Fontina lying around but you should feel comfortable with any cheese you prefer. Following the technique of the recipe is more important than using the exact ingredients, so be creative and create the Frittata that will make you happy. This version makes me happy and in a nod, almost, to France I’ve named this frittata: Gran Paradiso. Frittata Gran Paradiso Ingredients 1 Tbsp butter ¼ tsp finely ground black pepper pinch of salt 6 eggs, beaten 1/3 cup crumbled or cut bacon, (fry off the bacon to your liking before measuring it)   1 cup Italian Fontina cheese, shredded ½ cup thinly sliced green onions Technique Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a medium mixing bowl, beat the eggs, black pepper and salt together. Heat a 12-inch sauté pan, over medium heat. When it’s hot add the butter and allow it to melt. When the butter has begun to simmer add the bacon and toss to coat, then add the egg mixture. With a wooden spoon stir the cheese and green onions into the egg mixture. Continue stirring until the bottom of the mixture begins to set. Remove the sauté pan from the stove and place it in the top third of the preheated oven. Bake for approximately 10 minute or until the eggs are firm. Allow the frittata to cool somewhat before plating so that it firms up slightly. Pairing a soft and luxurious wine with a soft and luxurious dish 2007 Shoestring Rose of Syrah Santa Ynez Valley 13.3% Priced from $22.00 Really coppery colored. Light aromatics are faintly smoky and meaty with some nuanced floral hints supporting notes of raspberry and cherry with a suggestion of tropical, orange toned fruits. The nice, mouth filling, yet soft texture is very attractive and supports gentle notes of herbal tinged baked orange and cranberry. Frittata Gran Paradiso A rich yet delicate Frittata inspired by Quiche Lorraine This frittata has the soul of a Quiche Lorraine yet forgoes the crust and turns out to be an easy compliment to Sunday brunch or a great addition to a buffet meal. I prefer to serve the frittata still warm from the oven. The aromas of bacon and aromatic Fontina val d’Aostana can be absolutely intoxicating and are worth the minimal effort required for this dish.    (hide)

  From the article Frittata Gran Paradiso and a Rose

  
  

• September 2009

  Ratatouille Meets its Match A Cotes du Rhone to pair with this Provencal classic As the summer slips away I fight to hold on to the fading signs of a glorious season and embrace the last vestiges of its greatest glory -  the vegetable garden! Actually, having... Read more Ratatouille Meets its Match A Cotes du Rhone to pair with this Provencal classic As the summer slips away I fight to hold on to the fading signs of a glorious season and embrace the last vestiges of its greatest glory -  the vegetable garden! Actually, having slightly cooler weather in the evenings has let me begin to shift from light summer wines to ones with a little more oomph. This past weekend I spent a few hours working on a wonderful batch of Ratatouille and then enjoyed a fine dinner with a simply great wine match: Cotes du Rhone. Neither particularly big nor complex this style of wine really lets the complexity of the Ratatouille take center stage. What to expect: Rhone Blends Rhone Blends are generally based on Grenache though some  may be predominantly Syrah or even Mourvedre. The fact that these wines are blends gives the winemakers unusual flexibility in creating the finished wine. In the Southern Rhone Valley of France the styles can range from light, fruity, soft Cotes du Rhone to big, bold, age worthy Chateaunuef-du-pape. Search for other Cotes du Rhone on Snooth Living in Manhattan I don’t have a vegetable garden per se. Ok I don’t have a vegetable garden at all though I have killed several herb plants on my windowsill. My mother on the other hand, living as she does in Connecticut, does have a vegetable garden. It’s large and glorious, brimming with sweet ripe vegetables, and ringed by an imposing 8-foot fence. It does look somewhat like a prison yard, but the fence keeps the deer out and me rolling in fresh veggies. Sometimes rolling may seem like an understatement, it can be more like drowning, not that I mind! Picking up bags FULL of vine ripened tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, zucchini, squash, and spectacularly deeply colored peppers is as exciting for me as a trip down Fifth avenue can be for those more prone to being fashionable. Of course there is one significant difference between these vegetables and a Prada bag. The Prada bag can simply get thrown in the closet and forgotten. These bags need to be cleaned, processed and creatively dealt with, lest I face a week, or more, of Greek salad for dinner. Ratatouille seems to be the ideal solution, ok I cheated, the cucumbers are being pickled. A dish inspired no doubt by days like this in the French Country side. A dish that thrives on abundance, and is oh so forgiving of a little less here or a little more there. It’s one of my favorite dishes. Whether on it’s own, warm or cold, paired with a lamb chop or served with rice or pasta, I love it’s flexibility and the fact that it’s flavor can improve for a day or three so I never grow tired of it. I’ve included my standard recipe for Ratatouille below. You might find that you have a touch more onion or a touch less eggplant, or visa versa, than the recipe calls for. Don’t be too concerned about precise quantities here, just focus on the techniques and when you’re done make sure you take the time to enjoy your handiwork. I recently did just that. I spent some time in my mother’s kitchen last weekend salvaging vegetables from the garden on a rainy Saturday and made a huge batch of ratatouille for all of us to share. On Sunday the weather cleared up and shared it we did, served over fettuccine with a sprinkle of Parmiggiano and the aforementioned grilled lamb chops. It was spectacular and the wine pairing, a 2007 Delas Cotes du Rhone that I stocked up on for events like this, was a perfect partner! While I  recommend serving a Cote du Rhone with Ratatouille, or at least trying one, don’t fret if that’s not a wine you’re interested in. A nice Chianti or Rioja would be a great match too! Ratatouille for many Ingredients 1/3 cup olive oil 1 large yellow onion, 1/3 inch dice 2 medium bell pepper ½ inch dice (I used one green and one red) 2 small eggplant, 1 inch dice 2 tsp fresh thyme 1 tsp fresh oregano 6 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced 2 medium zucchini sliced into ¼ inch half moons 2 medium yellow squash sliced into ¼ half moons 1 quart roughly chopped tomatoes, either canned or fresh but in either case well drained Salt and pepper to taste ¼ cup loosely packed julienne of fresh basil leaves Technique 1)   Heat a large roasting pan over medium heat, one large enough to accommodate all the vegetables, and when hot add the oil. 2)   As soon as the oil begins to smoke add the onions and sauté until translucent. 3)   Once the onions are translucent add the peppers and eggplant and sauté until they have softened, (the corners of the eggplant will start to look rounded) 4)   Add the garlic, oregano and thyme to the mixture and sauté until fragrant, about 2 minutes, then add the zucchini and yellow squash, sauté for about 5 minutes until heated through then add the tomatoes 5)   Season with salt and pepper and continue to simmer over medium heat until the squash have softened and the tomatoes are heated through, about 8 minutes. 6)   Remove from heat, adjust seasonings and stir in the basil as a final touch. 7)   Your ratatouille is ready to serve or store! A meeting of rich and rustic partners 2007 Delas Frères Côtes du Rhône Saint-Esprit Priced from $9.99 This is an unusual Cotes du Rhone in that it is predominantly Syrah, with the addition of 25% Grenache. The resulting wine is filled with slightly roasted red berry fruits that stand up to the sweet tones the fresh vegetables and tomato add to the ratatouille. Accent notes of spice and herbs  meld seamlessly with the savory elements of the dish. Ratatouile for many An easy, rustic recipe great for groups My ratatouille recipe is one scaled down from my restaurant days. Back then a normal recipe produced about four times the yield as this one but the results are the same: deliciousness! I paired this ratatouille with grilled lamb chops and fettuccine but it’s great on its own as well. Other wines that work well with this dish include Chianti and Rioja, both lighter styled reds with bright acidity.    (hide)

  From the article Summer's bounty means it's time for Ratatouille!

  
  

• August 2009

  Snooth was happy to be able to host The Big House Wine Company’s winemaker, Georgetta Dane, while she was making the rounds here in New York last week. Georgetta, originally from Romania and trained in food sciences as well as oenology, happened to fall into the wine business in... Read moreSnooth was happy to be able to host The Big House Wine Company’s winemaker, Georgetta Dane, while she was making the rounds here in New York last week. Georgetta, originally from Romania and trained in food sciences as well as oenology, happened to fall into the wine business in her home country but is certainly making a name for herself while defining the style at Big House wines. Some of you might associate the Big House label with the irrepressible Randall Graham who founded the brand. For some two years now it’s has been functioning independently of Mr. Grahams Empire with the desire to continue to provide complex and interesting wines at affordable prices. One way of keeping the value proposition in balance is to avoid competing for the big money wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in particular. In their place Georgetta and Big House wines rely on a vast palette of grapes, 42(!) in total. By drawing on the nuances from each grape, Georgetta builds wines of quality and consistency, a difficult challenge indeed. While speaking with Georgetta, we were able to review her winemaking philosophy, which she compares to a perfumer.  Each varietal wine at Big House is vinified separately, with the exception of the Big House Pink which is produced via the saignée method, bleeding some pink juice from many vats of fermenting red wines to alter the juice to solids ratio in those reds, adding some oomph to the reds and providing a complex base for the wonderful “Pink” they produce. Once each wine has finished fermenting Georgetta begins the intricate task of creating the final blend that will become either the Big House White or the Big House Red. In the case of the red there may be over 20 varieties in that final blend. The base is always a big, bold wine full of dark fruits. To that base Georgetta adds a middle drawn from “Italian varieties” that are valued for their “ insane fruit that brings harsh tannins but they disappear into the base.” The final layer of the wine consists of the top notes contributed by perfumed and spicy varieties, perhaps even a floral white to add some lift to the nose. The process is repeated for the white in much the same manner yielding wines that are full yet deliver a remarkable amount of complexity and even finesse at their price points. There are two tiers of wines produced by the Big House Wine Company, located in Soledad California with vineyards that surround the Soledad State penitentiary, hence the name. The original Big House wines: White, Pink and Red, represent the “lower tier” while the more distinctive offering: The Birdman, The Lineup, The Slammer, and The Prodigal Son, are the “upper tier”. In addition the Big House Wine Company also represents the Cardinal Zin brand which was sold by Randall Graham along with the big house wines. While these wines offer great value and are lovely on their own and with food I am hopeful that Georgetta might some day have a free hand with some of the varietals she currently works with. I look forward to trying her, Charbono, Tempranillo and Teroldego! 2008 Big House White This is surprisingly aromatic with a base of apricot fruit topped with very floral notes that recall viognier and a bright lemon drop tone that is complimented by bay leaf, herb, and powdered sugar notes. Medium full in the mouth with enough acidity to balance the touch of sweetness here. A bit simple in the mouth, it's pretty front loaded but does return some nice floral character on the moderately long finish. 84pts. ~ 2008 The Birdman Pinot Grigio A nice note of almond milk greats the nose followed by a grassy, dandelion note that is more wildflower than green grass. In the mouth there is almost a hint of minerally tannin here with decent acids supporting a round but well balanced mouth feel with nice kiwi fruit and a minty top note that leads to a clean, spicy finish of decent length. 86pts ~ Big House Pink 2008 Still a touch tanky on the nose with some floral notes and lightly jammy strawberry fruit that picks up a bit of nuanced spice, tea, sandlewood and juniper berry. In the mouth this is bright and juicy with a lean, crisp feel that partners well with the slightly earthy, tarry spice tones. Not a fruit bomb but with fresh strawberry and a hint of peach. 87pts ~ ~ Big House Red 2006 A touch grassy at first but then gaining a bit more of an earthy edge that evolves into a dried floral tone. Fairly nice wild red berry fruit on the nose with a core of grapy and lightly gamy tones. The bright acids in the mouth help to support nice sour berry flavors and the modest, if slightly angular, tannins add volume in the mouth with a salty, mineral tang on the back end that leads to a surprisingly long finish. A very solid table wine with character. 86pts The Lineup 2006 A Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre blend Very perfumey nose with subtle gamy undertones supporting blue fruits and a snappy Syrah element with a a nice hint of sisal and dried flowers. Nicely balanced in the mouth with a fresh lively feel and intense juicy red berry fruits with hints of spices, cigar box, leather and black pepper adding nice complexity to the black plum fruit on the finish. 86pts The Slammer Syrah 2006 Another nicely perfumed nose with pepper, tar, wood spice violets and maple bacon all adding depth to the blackberry fruits. Bright and crisp in the mouth with a touch of woodspice brownie up front followed by sweet, but not sugary, red fruits that have a nice vegetal/violet top note that gains intensity but is not off-putting since it offers nice contrast to the fruit. A nice balance of flavors though this does finish a touch short. 87pts The Prodigal Son Petit Sirah 2006 This smells nicely earthy with a slight edge of char right out of the bottle. Big black grape skin and blueberry fruit are edged with hints of petrol, powdered sugar and bay leaf. This is round and fleshy with plenty of acid to help support the red cherry fruit and nice sandpapery tannins that add a hint of astringency to the mouthwatering mid-palate.  With that blueberry dichotomy of sweet and sour this remains lively in the mouth with good length and volume and a nice finish with a touch of asphalt and hint of woody mintiness reinforcing the slightly rustic quality of the wine. 88pts Cardinal Zin 2006 A touch stewy on the nose with slow to open notes of macerated cherry with hints of cocoa, pipe tobacco, coconut and eucalyptus. Supple in the mouth with good acids and slightly chewy tannins that are well integrated in the dark wild plum fruits. The back end shows a bit more spicy and wood tones with a touch of woody astringency that adds to the red currant fruit tones on the final. A well rounded and well behaved Zin. 86pts Gregory Dal Piaz Community Manager Snooth    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic The Warden: Georgetta Dane... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• August 2009

  The Warden: Georgetta Dane blends at the Big House. Snooth was happy to be able to host The Big House Wine Company's winemaker, Georgetta Dane, while she was making the rounds here in New York last week. Georgetta, originally from Romania and trained in food sciences as well as... Read moreThe Warden: Georgetta Dane blends at the Big House. Snooth was happy to be able to host The Big House Wine Company's winemaker, Georgetta Dane, while she was making the rounds here in New York last week. Georgetta, originally from Romania and trained in food sciences as well as oenology, happened to fall into the wine business in her home country but is certainly making a name for herself while defining the style at Big House wines. Some of you might associate the Big House label with the irrepressible Randall Graham who founded the brand. For some two years now it's has been functioning independently of Mr. Grahams Empire with the desire to continue to provide complex and interesting wines at affordable prices. One way of keeping the value proposition in balance is to avoid competing for the big money wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in particular. In their place Georgetta and Big House wines rely on a vast palette of grapes, 42(!) in total. By drawing on the nuances from each grape, Georgetta builds wines of quality and consistency, a difficult challenge indeed. While speaking with Georgetta, we were able to review her winemaking philosophy, which she compares to a perfumer.  Each varietal wine at Big House is vinified separately, with the exception of the Big House Pink which is produced via the saignée method, bleeding some pink juice from many vats of fermenting red wines to alter the juice to solids ratio in those reds, adding some oomph to the reds and providing a complex base for the wonderful “Pink” they produce. Once each wine has finished fermenting Georgetta begins the intricate task of creating the final blend that will become either the Big House White or the Big House Red. In the case of the red there may be over 20 varieties in that final blend. The base is always a big, bold wine full of dark fruits. To that base Georgetta adds a middle drawn from “Italian varieties” that are valued for their “ insane fruit that brings harsh tannins but they disappear into the base.” The final layer of the wine consists of the top notes contributed by perfumed and spicy varieties, perhaps even a floral white to add some lift to the nose. The process is repeated for the white in much the same manner yielding wines that are full yet deliver a remarkable amount of complexity and even finesse at their price points. There are two tiers of wines produced by the Big House Wine Company, located in Soledad California with vineyards that surround the Soledad State penitentiary, hence the name. The original Big House wines: White, Pink and Red, represent the “lower tier” while the more distinctive offering: The Birdman, The Lineup, The Slammer, and The Prodigal Son, are the “upper tier”. In addition the Big House Wine Company also represents the Cardinal Zin brand which was sold by Randall Graham along with the big house wines. While these wines offer great value and are lovely on their own and with food I am hopeful that Georgetta might some day have a free hand with some of the varietals she currently works with. I look forward to trying her, Charbono, Tempranillo and Teroldego! 2008 Big House White This is surprisingly aromatic with a base of apricot fruit topped with very floral notes that recall viognier and a bright lemon drop tone that is complimented by bay leaf, herb, and powdered sugar notes. Medium full in the mouth with enough acidity to balance the touch of sweetness here. A bit simple in the mouth, it's pretty front loaded but does return some nice floral character on the moderately long finish. 84pts. ~ 2008 The Birdman Pinot Grigio A nice note of almond milk greats the nose followed by a grassy, dandelion note that is more wildflower than green grass. In the mouth there is almost a hint of minerally tannin here with decent acids supporting a round but well balanced mouth feel with nice kiwi fruit and a minty top note that leads to a clean, spicy finish of decent length. 86pts ~ Big House Pink 2008 Still a touch tanky on the nose with some floral notes and lightly jammy strawberry fruit that picks up a bit of nuanced spice, tea, sandlewood and juniper berry. In the mouth this is bright and juicy with a lean, crisp feel that partners well with the slightly earthy, tarry spice tones. Not a fruit bomb but with fresh strawberry and a hint of peach. 87pts ~ ~ Big House Red 2006 A touch grassy at first but then gaining a bit more of an earthy edge that evolves into a dried floral tone. Fairly nice wild red berry fruit on the nose with a core of grapy and lightly gamy tones. The bright acids in the mouth help to support nice sour berry flavors and the modest, if slightly angular, tannins add volume in the mouth with a salty, mineral tang on the back end that leads to a surprisingly long finish. A very solid table wine with character. 86pts The Lineup 2006 A Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre blend Very perfumey nose with subtle gamy undertones supporting blue fruits and a snappy Syrah element with a a nice hint of sisal and dried flowers. Nicely balanced in the mouth with a fresh lively feel and intense juicy red berry fruits with hints of spices, cigar box, leather and black pepper adding nice complexity to the black plum fruit on the finish. 86pts The Slammer Syrah 2006 Another nicely perfumed nose with pepper, tar, wood spice violets and maple bacon all adding depth to the blackberry fruits. Bright and crisp in the mouth with a touch of woodspice brownie up front followed by sweet, but not sugary, red fruits that have a nice vegetal/violet top note that gains intensity but is not off-putting since it offers nice contrast to the fruit. A nice balance of flavors though this does finish a touch short. 87pts The Prodigal Son Petit Sirah 2006 This smells nicely earthy with a slight edge of char right out of the bottle. Big black grape skin and blueberry fruit are edged with hints of petrol, powdered sugar and bay leaf. This is round and fleshy with plenty of acid to help support the red cherry fruit and nice sandpapery tannins that add a hint of astringency to the mouthwatering mid-palate.  With that blueberry dichotomy of sweet and sour this remains lively in the mouth with good length and volume and a nice finish with a touch of asphalt and hint of woody mintiness reinforcing the slightly rustic quality of the wine. 88pts Cardinal Zin 2006 A touch stewy on the nose with slow to open notes of macerated cherry with hints of cocoa, pipe tobacco, coconut and eucalyptus. Supple in the mouth with good acids and slightly chewy tannins that are well integrated in the dark wild plum fruits. The back end shows a bit more spicy and wood tones with a touch of woody astringency that adds to the red currant fruit tones on the final. A well rounded and well behaved Zin. 86pts Gregory Dal Piaz Community Manager Snooth    (hide)

  From the article The Warden: Georgetta Dane blends at the Big House.

  
  

• July 2009

  California’s Sierra foothills appellation spans across some of the least heralded great wine producing regions of the state. Unlike Napa and Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon did not serve as a historic touchstone here, though the history of wine production is almost as long. In contrast... Read moreCalifornia’s Sierra foothills appellation spans across some of the least heralded great wine producing regions of the state. Unlike Napa and Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon did not serve as a historic touchstone here, though the history of wine production is almost as long. In contrast to the hype and glitter of “newer” regions propelled to fame by faddish whims, the Sierra Foothills continue to stake their claim to fame on old vine Zinfandel, as they did during the gold rush, as well as newer plantings of grapes from across Europe that adapt well to the favorable climate of the region. photo courtesy of: El Dorado Winery Association The fact that these counties, eight in total, three in particular, from north to south El Dorado, Amador and Calaveras counties, are leading the way in planting exciting, new to the state, varieties, captures the pioneer spirit that continues to infuse not only the people of these beautiful hills but also the wine they produce. For example, as opposed to competing with the so much of the state, not to mention the world, by planting Cabernet Sauvignon (not that Cabernet doesn’t have it’s spots in this ranging AVA) one finds Rhone style blends based on Grenache and Syrah, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and even Tempranillo!  This “prospecting for riches” carries over a long tradition, going back to Sutter’s mill and the original 49er’s, that’s 1849, who braved the variable climate of this rugged region in search of gold. Today’s gold comes more frequently in a bottle, and some is even of the golden persuasion. All the wines of the region share a certain character that expresses the unique terroir of this interesting AVA that admittedly crosses many county borders as it travels from meso-climate to meso-climate.  One reason for such an extensive AVA is that the rolling foothills here are the key to providing welcome relief from the heat of California’s central valley. This slice of the foothills, where vines thrive in the moderate climate between 1400 and 3000 feet of elevation, is double blessed. Not only do the warm days and cool night preserve the acidity in the grapes but these conditions also extend the growing season by slowing down the ripening during the final days of the growing season. This is especially beneficial with Zinfandel since the grape clusters on many Zinfandel vines tend to have berries of varying ripeness as harvest approaches. These hillsides are also blessed with a variety of soil types that give the wines produced here a distinctive character.  Around the 2000-foot level many patches of decomposed granite are to be found. These poor soils offer great drainage forcing the vines to struggle a bit for their survival, yielding fruit that, when mature, gives rich, rugged flavors and balanced structure to the wines they produce. At higher elevations several regions have soils of volcanic origin that can add a spicy tone to the wines and a crispness to the tannins that makes them distinct and unique additions to the pantheon of California wine. Situated as they are between the heavily populated coastal areas of northern California and the rich beauty of the Sierra Nevada range, the foothill wineries are ideally located to be part of a true California adventure. Escaping from the herd mentality that drive tourists to Napa, Sonoma and San Francisco provides that savvy wine tripper not only a chance to taste great wines at a pace more akin to that of 1950 but serves as a gateway to some of the most impressive natural beauty one is able to find in the vast land of ours. So next time you’re thinking of a California vacation consider adding the Sierra Foothills and visits to Yosemite to your plans.  I know I will. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Amador Foothill Winery -  Leading the way with innovative wines! With plantings that range from Aglianico to Zinfandel, it should come as no surprise that Amador Foothill Winery is leading the way with innovative wines from the Sierra Foothills. From Rose to Rhone Blend, and never forgetting the Zinfandel, this is a winery that delivers. Amador Foothill 2008 Rosato of Sangiovese Amador  13.5%  Soil, oil, dusty earth, pollen, wild raspberry, lovely subtle spice ad herb tones,  a tuch of leather, a bit of Swedish fish, wild cherry+,  A touch sweet up front then the wash of acid cuts through the weight leaving very pure wild berry fruit tones, great interplay of acid/fruit on the palte, really zippy style with duge refreshing acids that lead to a brick finish full or wild raspberry tones with hints of earth and spice.  A lighter style in the mouth and a great rose that may lack a touch of complexity but more than makes up for it with it’s extremely pretty pure fruit and texture that makes you want to drink more. A great rose 92pts ~ ~~ ~ Amador Foothill  Winery 2006 Katies Cote Shenandoah Valley  14.4% Lots of cigar box and sweet vanilla laced tones on the nose dominate the blackberry and black plum note though intriguing notes of violet, black pepper and thyme slowly emerge from the glass.  Slinky entry is immediately delicious with crisp herb inflected black fruits that have great intensity yet are not clumsy or thick. The wood adds a bit too much sweetness here yet the ample spice tones with hints of cinnamon, black pepper and juniper add a nice contrast on the back end. This finishes with a touch too much wood induced sweetness again but the tannins are lovely and crisp so this should take another year or two of age well, allowing the wood tones to soften and integrate. Very aromatic and cedary in the mouth at times, this is a rich, gutsy wine with good promise. 51% Syrah/49% Grenache 88pts ~ Bantam Cellars - A new winery making Shenandoah wine scene. With only 3 vintages under their belt bantam Cellars are the new kids on the block. Following in the path blazed before them they are offering an array of Mediterranean varieties yet continue the great tradition that Zinfandel has developed in the region. Bantam cellars 2008 Vermentino  Amador County12.5% Quite intense mineral, almond, pear and light spiced white peach fruit on the nose. This is lovely and balanced on the nose. Good acids, a touch grapey fruit, quite grapey fruity in fact but with lemon shaded juicy Asian pear notes that are rich and satisfying.  Finishes with a touch of raspy mineral, a hint of gooseberry and surprising length. A delicious wine perfect for casual sipping and light fair. 88pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ C. G. di Arie - From the creator of Cap’n Crunch, no kidding! Set to celebrate their first decade in business C.G di Arie makes the most of their estate fruit. With the major red varieties planted here at 1700 feet the focus here is on getting a consistent expression from these vines while relying on partner grower sto provide top-quality fruit for their non-estate wines. G D di Arie 2008 Sauvignon Banc Shenandoah valley 13.8% Starts out with sweetish notes of powdered sugar a sage that are joined by tropical fruit notes.  Soft and broad in the mouth with a velvety texture and juicy orchard fruit tones. A simple wine in an easy to drink style 85pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ G D Di Arie 2008 Rose Di Arie  Sierra Foothills 13.7% Earthy sweet raspberries and fleshy black grape tones right off the bat are joined by a touch of herbs, black pepper and peach fruit.  A rich, soft style with tones of sweet red currant and plum fruit tones that are a touch spicy and hold a nice earthy center. Rich and fruity with a touch of RS yet also a nice hint of tannin to add some contrast to the texture. A touch sticky on the finish but with lingering jammy blackberry tones. If you love a fruity rose this is for you.  50% Syrah/40% Tempranillo/10% Zinfandel 86pts  ~ ~~ ~ Cooper Vineyards - Offering a complete array of wines Cooper Vineyards produces and impressive line-up of wines encompassing 17 varieties. From Pinot Grigio and Roussanne to Cabernet and Zinfandel, naturally, there is a wine for every palate. And in that inclusive spirit one can also find a pair of dessert wines, one white, and one red to tempt your taste buds. Cooper vineyards 2008 Pinot Grigio Amador 14.9% Rather intense citrus zest and ripe herb notes with lovely floral top notes some alcohol shows but surprising well-balanced nose.  Lots of sweet fruit up front, green berries and green plum combine with a rich, plush mouthfeel to produce a rather unusual wine. One that feels over-ripe yet maintains surprisingly good freshness of flavor; inner mouth perfume is very sweet with notes of green tea and jasmine. The wine lacks some freshening acidity but is bursting with apricot and almost guava tones. The alcohol is more apparent in the mouth but this still manages to pull it off. The finish is a touch short but this is quite an interesting wine, though certainly not for everyone. 88pts ~ Deaver Vineyards -  Four generations and 150 years later still going strong! If any name should be associated with the wines of the Sierra Foothills it should be Deaver. With a proud lineage extending back to the first years of wine production in the region it’s no surprise that Deaver continues to be at the forefront with great new Italian and Rhone varietals as well as the classics. Deaver Vineyards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Amador 13.3% Light kiwi and grassy notes on the nose, fresh almost earthy clumps of sod tones that are less herbal than manner SB. Bright zesty and fresh on entry with a very lively and refreshing mouthfeel. Classic medium bodied Sauvignon Blanc feel with modestly fruity flavors and a nice hint of lemon pith and sweet grapefruit that leads to a medium length finish. Actually has good persistence to the modest flavors but the appeal here is drinkability. 86pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Deaver Vineyards 2007 Sierra Foothills Chardonnay with an ATTITUDE 14.5% Smells lemony and floral like some Muscat or Viognier made it into the blend.  The fruit is citrussy and the nose quite high pitched with salty undertones and a touch of honey, toasted spices and green anise seed.  Rich yet lively in the mouth with an impression of sweetness accentuating the deep fruit yellow fruit tones. A mouthfilling wine but well balanced with interesting layers of citrus and peach fruit.. Very clean and crisp on the finish with a touch of lingering almost coffee like toasted spice 88pts ~ ~~ ~ Deaver Viognier 2007 Amador County 14% Smells sweet with a leather fruit tone that recalls dried apricot, a hint of lanolin and a touch of water chestnut add some complexity. This gains a nice pale honey note with hints of pollen and light tobacco. Very light with an attractive airy quality even though the wine is noticeably viscous with obvious RS., but it is well balanced by the integrated acidity. Lovely honied flavors of quince, candied lime and peach round out thee mouth. The finish is a bit gentle but with nice feathery complexity and a very friendly disposition. The sweetness is a bit much for a table wine but this finishes fairly read more...dryly so it can work but is better suited as a very light dessert wine particularly well structured for a cheese course. 90pts   Deaver Vineyards NV Orange Muscat Amador 12.5% Gorgeously fragrant nose full of black tea, orange blossom, light passion fruit and pink grapefruit tones. Really intense and fresh and gently frizzante with a honied tone to the warm citrus fruit tones and  an easy appeal. Some tea notes add a bit of depth but this is a rather sweet and slightly rich style of Moscato with long honied flavors yet not much detail. 85pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Ironestone Vineyards - A pioneer growing premium grapes in the Foothills. Ironstone Vineyards is one of the Sierra Foothill’s premium producers of Bordeaux blends. By intelligently adding small amounts of blending grapes and allowing the wines time to age in barrel in the deep, cool caverns under the winery, Ironstone has created nuanced wines in a satisfyingly smooth style. Ironstone 2006 Cabernet Franc Reserve Sierra Foothills 14.5% Dark, toasty, grilled fruit notes with spicy herbs lurking, and something very meaty about this wine, Nicely gamy smells like grilling lamb over eucalyptus. Lush in the mouth with lots of rich fruit, plums, cassis, black cherry with hints of dried tomato, herb, mint, and oak,. Very nicely balanced both texturally and favor wise with there is a touch of barbq sauciness on the backend but the bright cherry tones and light vanilla note power through and dominate the long finish. A big velvety richly fruited yet fresh wine with a touch of earth at its core, and just a hint of mint chocolate shavings helping read more...to frame the fruit. Certainly is ripe Cab France 89pts ~ Ironstone 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Sierra Foothills 14.5% Reticent and minty with an interesting mineral edge to the nose, smells granitic.  A touch leaner and more transparent than the CF with a redder fruit profile. Bright acids and nicely measured tannin yield a firmly medium plus bodied wine with a touch of cola/root beer spice helping to frame the astringent red fruits. The wood is really well integrated here and while this is neither super complex or super rich (a good thing) it is very well behaved in the mouth. Not particularly varietal either but rich, polished and fruity. A well-made and enjoyably drinkable wine that finishes a touch short with a Mexican cocoa note.87pts. ~ ~~ ~ Morse Wines -  A leader in Rhone varieties from the Sierra Foothills Morse Wines is a new label being utilized by the Il Gioiello Winery to differential their Rhone Varietals from their Italian bottlings. Determined to make a name for both schools in the Foothills, Morse offer carefully crafted small lots of wines that offer a new interpretation of French Classics. Morse 2007 Ensemble Blanc 55% Viognier/45% Roussanne Sierra Foothills 15.1% A bit slow to open with soft floral tones married to deep, almost honied, quite smoky baked banana peel, and preserved lemon tones, Gains a big acacia tone with air. Rich with good acidity and a nice mineral edge to the deep orchard fruit tones. Real snap to the flavors and fine balance with rather restrained kwi and goosebbery notes that gain the upper hand on the back end with an interesting candied floral top note and lingering sweet/mineral tension on the moderate finish. Excellent complexity and balance in this very solid wine. 90pts  ~ ~~ ~ Shenandoah Vineyards- A pioneering winery in California’s Shenandoah Valley With a broad array of small lot reserve wines, Shenandoah Vineyards offers a complimentary line-up to the Sobon family’s eponymous winery. Actually the first of the 2 brands Shenandoah Vineyards continues as a leading producer of wines that represent a classic style that can only be associated with California’s Shenandoah Valley. Shenandoah Vineyards 2007 Special Reserve Zinfandel Amador 14.4% Subtle and soft blackberries, peach and black plum skins contrast with a hint of baking spice and coconutty oak tones on the nose.   Very sweetly fruited entry, nice balance with good acidity and very soft tannins give the moderately spicy but very fruity style with a soft, friendly feel.  Full of sweet, vanilla toned black plum and blackberry fruit, on the short finish. Classic Amador Zin though. 86 pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Sobon - a family affair dedicated to sustainable farming, and great wine! The Sierra Foothill’s forte has always been their deep, flavorful old vine Zinfandel. Many of these hillside vineyards were originally planted to supply the 49ers and now are gloriously mature. Sobon has consistently captured the wonderful fruit of these vines, allowing them to express themselves in classic style. Sobon Estate 2008 Roussanne Amador 14.1% Great nose, lots of boiled chestnuts and toasted chestnut shells, intense with a noticeable yet integrated oak backdrop. Lilacs, white pepper and very light mangosteen fruit.  Decidedly soft in the mouth with a rich, viscous feel and initial honied fruit note that yields to an almost strawberry tinged mid-palate with rich orange tones and a touch of butter cream.  The finish returns to a more citrussy vein with a nicely floral inner mouth perfume of almost tropical orange blossoms. Big rich balanced and different this is a winner 90pts ~ ~~ ~ Sobon Estate ReZerve 2008 Rose Amador 13.6% Mineral, strawberry, herb and roast pork with a hint of rosemary and a hint of flowers on the nose give this a succulent and savory appeal.  Dry and crisp with good focus in the mouth. This is a touch tight even with a subtle richness and lovely, slightly tannic red berry and sweet pomegranate tones with a touch of papaya and papaya seed spice. Wonderful fruit and subtle spice tones linger on the moderately long finish. Great balance and freshness here make this really lovely. Grenache/Syrah/Carignan 90pts ~ ~~ Sobon Estate 2007 Old Vines Zinfandel Amador 14.9% A touch of fudge and moist earth with lovely brambly notes of sapwood, herb and wild black raspberry fruit edged with a touch of pipe tobacco. Pure black raspberry fruit on entry, very good acids, lots of sweet fruit here, nice top notes of briar and bramble. Nice purity of well-expressed yet uncomplicated fruit. A wine for drinking, not for thinking about. Finishes with a slightly jammier tone and more wood spice but still nicely balanced and fresh 87pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery - A lovely white surprise from a great Zin producer. Story Winery has made a name for themselves producing small lots of old-vine Zinfandel from great vineyard sites in Amador county.  In true pioneer spirit they have also explored several white wines enjoying the fruit from these unusual head-pruned and dry farmed vineyards. Story Winery 2007 Chenin Blanc Shenandoah  15% A touch funky right out of the bottle with notes of caramel, butterscotch and quince paste over a funky chalky earth, seashell and herb base. Deceptively light bodied with gentle flavors of apple, apple butter and pressed flowers slowly building in the glass. Holds its 15% amazing well. The subtle flavors power through on the medium length finish adding notes or biter orange marmalade and a light cashew brittle tone. Before gaining a nice mouth grabbing chalky tone again. A very subtle wine that will rise to the occasion pairing well with a wide variety of foods. 87pts ~ ~~ Story Winery 2006 Picnic Hill Old Vines Zinfandel Shenandoah  Valley 16% Light vanilla tones are backed by lots of astringent red fruits, red currant and pomegranate, with a hint of herb and roast meatiness.  Enters with sweet red fruits, slightly exotic berries fruits, fruit di bosco, nice freshness and good balance that help to hide it’s 16% Very candied but in a fresh way, sugared raspberries with a peppery cinnamon edge for balance, Nice crisp tannins and a lovely stemmy tone add length to the finish.  88pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery 2006 Creekside Vineyard Old Vines Zinfandel 16% Really briary aromas in the glass are joined by smoky earth tones and reduced wild raspberry notes with hints of lightly spiced cranberry and orange rind.  Rich and velvety, this has power and depth with a slightly sweet character that accentuates the rich wild cherry and astringent, spicy red fruit tones. A mouthfilling wine that is a touch minty and medicinal on the finish with a nice tannic bite that helps balance the RS. This is a monster wine; serve it with cheese or instead of dessert. Really spicy notes gain prominence on the midpalate.  Finishes with a really intense red hots tone. A divisive wine for sure but it’s pretty cool. 90pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery 2006 Alitia Vineyard Zinfandel Shenandoah Valley 16% Smells like leather and ass and not in a bad way. Slow to open, with slightly buttery licorice tinged tight black fruit. Tight concentrated and velvety with a deep savory core folded up with black currant and dry, not terrible sweet mulberry fruit. This is reticent yet with excellent balance that gives it an elegance that their other wines lack. Shares a touch of that peppery cinnamon with lovely dried herb notes and lots of potential but this needs another year to express itself. 88pts ~ ~~ Vino Noceto - This Tuscan styled estate is a relative newcomer to the region. Recognizing that the climate of Amador County’s Shenandoah Valley was Mediterranean in nature, family owned Vino Noceto took a brave and unique path, choosing to focus on premium Sangiovese based wine as opposed to sticking to the Zinfandel roots of the region. Noceto 2008 Pinot Grigio Clarksburg/Amador 13% Light rainwater, clay and floral tones on the nose give this an airy note before they are joined by fragrant pear fruit with a hint of dried pineapple.  Round and soft but not flabby, in fact nicely balanced on a rich if medium bodied frame that supports soft, juicy fruit flavors with grace notes of mint and almond and herb that lead to a slightly sweet finish that hints at baked apple with a nice almond tone. 86 ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Noceto 2006 Sangiovese Shenandoah Valley 14% Very intense sweet cherry, vanilla and soft toast notes greet the nose.  There is a slight medicinal note that combines with the black cherry fruit to give this a slight cough lozenge note. A nice hint of herb adds complexity.  Big, rich sweet cherry fruit with just a hint of oak is well supported by tannins are a touch astringent, as they should be, and good acidity giving this a refreshing feel. Very medium bodied and with lightness that keeps this centered in the mouth despite the intensity of the rather simple yet pure cherry fruit. On the backend it turns a bit spice with a nice flourish of strawberry and herb adding to the long finish.  Very solid wine and great for the bar-b-q this summer. 90pts   Noceto 2008 Frivolo Moscato Bianco California 7.1% Delicious smelling with note of lemon, lime leaf, powder sugar and hints of angelica root and white tea, with a gently biscuit note. Just ever so softly frizzante with good acidity balancing the rather light, fresh citrus driven flavors. Plenty sweet but with a touch of lightness on the palate, really attractive flavors of subtle ginger inflected candied citrus fruits, with good length, lovely and freaking delicious 88pts  ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Gregory Dal Piaz Community Manager Snooth    (hide)

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