Black Olive

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  November 2009

  Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Barda 2007

  Snoothrank: Starting at $27^.99

  Black olives and bay leaf flavors on the nose. Rich and dense with chocolate and green pepper notes. There's a hint of truffle and some barnyard, before the wine finishes on barely ripe raspberries and cherry flavors. Lingering tobacco notes.

  Wine review by Philip

  
  

• November 2009

  Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic... Read more Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic memories from childhood are of German cuisine and one in particular, Goulash.  To this day, a rainy autumn afternoon or snowy winter night will always stir in me the desire for a warm bowl of goulash.  Its moderate heat is perfectly tempered by the rich sauce and natural sweetness of the onions.  When perfectly cooked the meat nearly melts in your mouth and becomes part of the sauce.  This is the ultimate comfort food.  The recipe included below may be very different from what a chef would learn in school, or what the typical cookbook may provide, but I assure you that it will create a Goulash of incredible depth and richness.  The ingredients are simple, but it requires a certain amount of patience from the cook, and passion for the food.  This preparation wasn’t taught to me by one person; instead it was constructed from an old traditional recipe and then fortified by the knowledge of a number of people that credit themselves as Goulash aficionados.  One may have wanted nutmeg, another to brown the meat, but in the end I took the knowledge of all of them and, through experimentation, constructed what you see below.  What to expect: Zinfandel Zinfandel is considered America's own great indigenous grape, even though its origins lie on the Adriatic coast. Planted throughout California and the Pacific Northwest, Zinfandel is at its best in warm regions with cooler temperatures during harvest. The wines can range from off-dry Rosés (aka White Zinfandel) and light bistro styled wines, to big, rich powerful wines - and even luscious dessert wines. The flavors range from plummy to raspberry, although deep blackberry fruit and brambly spice tones are most common. Find more Zinfandel However, there has always been one piece missing in this equation: what wine should I pair with it? Firstly, my experience with German reds is limited and most restaurants I’ve dined at consider beer to be the beverage of choice. Even the wine list at one of my local favorites, and possibly the best German Restaurant in New York City, has only a small number of Rieslings and one or two German reds. Secondly, a good Goulash will usually have a certain amount of heat to it, which poses another problem, where it might overpower the average red. Then it dawned on me: Zinfandel. A wine and food match pairing rich, earth partners. 2007 Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel Ponzo Priced from $29.99 This wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  This Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. Hungarian Goulash This recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests, while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal I choose to pair two wines with this dinner because, like most varietals, Zinfandel is made in many different styles.  The one style I wouldn’t recommend with this dish is the heavily fruited and almost sappy sweet Zinfandels that sometimes cross your path.  Instead I went with one of my most trusted producers, Ridge, and a bit of a wild card that I discovered this year while in Napa Valley, Trespass.   2006 Trespass Zinfandel, from Napa Valley was, surprisingly, a light ruby red color with aromas of bright red fruit, cranberry sauce and a bit of chalk dust. With time the fruit became darker with clove spice and plum, providing beautiful contrast to the heady, rich, beefy aromas of the goulash. On the palate it showed dark blue fruit, cedar and clove, adding complexities to the dish’s earthy flavors of rosemary and paprika.  It's full-bodied and zesty acidity worked wonders, carrying the fruit through the spicy heat of the goulash to end in a long finish reminiscent of sour cherry cough drops. This was a beautifully nuanced and complex zinfandel that ended up as the majority favorite of the night.   2007 Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyard was in many ways the yin to the Trespass Zinfandels yang.  The wine was a dark purple color in the glass and wafted aromas of black cherry fruit followed by confectioners sugar, sage, and a bit of nail polish remover (I mean that in a good way) which added a floral perfume and kept me with my nose to the glass for minutes on end.  On the palate it delivered big, lush brambly fruit with spicy vanilla and dark chocolate flavors.  The wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  The Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. In the end, I have to say that both wines performed equally well but for totally different reasons.  Each wine is, in my opinion, a superior expression of Zinfandel and while the Trespass will capture your soul in its web of elegant fruit and spice, the Ridge will quicken your pulse with its racy perfume and palate of rich bold flavors.  The most difficult part of this pairing was deciding what to do next, eat or drink. The Hungarian Goulash captured us all in our own way.  For me it was nostalgia while, for one guest, it was a wild and new experience, and another saw it as a taste of home.  And for a fellow chef, it was trying to figure out how it was possible to achieve such complexity with so few ingredients.  I think it’s time you try it for yourself. Hungarian Goulash To download a printable pdf file of this recipe please click here. The first thing to understand is that this recipe is all about patience and low, even temperature.  The best cooking vessel to use depends mainly on how much you want to make.  The recipe below is made to serve 7 – 8, and the reason I choose this high yield is that you can always use the extra as leftovers and, due to the time it takes to make it, you might as well have extra.  For the 7 –8 servings I suggest using a heavy stainless steel roasting pan that can span across two burners on your stove.  However, if you were to choose to cut this recipe in half for a small group then I would suggest a cast iron or earthenware vessel such a Le creuset. Secondly, this recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal. 5 pounds beef chuck (fat trimmed, cubed or cut about 1 ½ inch long, ¾ inch thick) 5 large yellow onions (sliced thick wedges) 8 Tbls tomato paste 3 Tbls hot paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 1 Tbls sweet paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 2 tsp dried oregano ¾ tsp fresh grated nutmeg 3 branches fresh rosemary about 4 tsp salt Pepper to taste 5 cups water 2 Tbls AP flour Extra Virgin Olive Oil (as needed) 4 Tbls sweet butter (for the finish) 1 lb fettuccini (Can use egg noodles; serve with potato dumplings or even rice) Place roasting pan over two burners on your stovetop and pour enough olive oil to coat entire bottom of the pan. Set burners to low-medium flame. Once the oil is heated, add onions with a healthy pinch of salt and toss to coat in the oil. Cook over low-medium flame until onions turn translucent but do not allow them to take on any color. Reduce flame to low. Make sure the onions are evenly spread out on the pan bottom and add the beef slices by placing them on top of the onions in an even layer. The beef should cover the onions completely but make sure that none of the pieces touch the side of the pan. The onions should create a cushion between the pan bottom and the beef. Sprinkle another pinch of salt over the beef. Next, sprinkle all the paprika over the beef evenly (I like to use a sifter for this to create a fine and even layer.) Now add the oregano and nutmeg again, evenly over the beef. Lastly, place two (of the three) rosemary branches on top of the beef. (Do not disturb the layers you have created.) Cover the roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil. Check to make sure that the flame is on low. After about 3 – 5 minutes you should hear the mixture bubbling. Allow the mixture to cook like this for 35 minutes and then loosen the aluminum foil to allow a little steam out of the pan. After another 5 – 10 minutes remove the foil (do not discard) and turn all the pieces of meat over. Check to make sure the onions are not burning. You should notice that the meat and onions have released a lot of their juices. Place the foil back on top of the pan (loosely) and allow the mixture to cook over low heat for another 45 minutes. Now place a saucepot on the stove over medium-low flame, add the five cups of water and whisk in the flour slowly, making sure that no lumps form. Now add the tomato paste and again whisk until it is combined. Allow this mixture to come up to a gentle boil but make sure to whisk regularly. Remove the foil from the roasting pan, remove the two branches of rosemary from the pan and add the boiling water-tomato paste mixture. Turn the beef and onions over in the sauce. The cooking liquid should just barely cover the beef and onions. Bring this mixture back to a simmer over medium-low flame and cover loosely with the foil so that steam can escape from the pan. Cook this mixture for an hour to an hour and a half, and stir gently once or twice to make sure that the mixture is cooking evenly. It’s at this time that you should taste. Check to make sure that the beef is tender. Season with salt and pepper. Then turn off the heat. If you want to serve the same day, let this mixture sit for about an hour before going to the next step. If you want to use this for the following day, move the mixture to a bowl and place in an ice bath to cool it quickly, then cover it tightly and place in the refrigerator. When ready to finish, place the Goulash in a pot and set over low heat. Bring another pot of well-salted water to boil for the pasta. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the instructions on the package. While waiting for the pasta, set the butter out on the counter and cut into cubes. Strip the last branch of rosemary for its leaves and chop them. By the time the pasta is finished, the Goulash should be perfectly heated through. Taste for seasoning one last time and then add the butter and stir gently until combined. Strain your pasta and toss in olive oil. Set the pasta on a plate and hollow out a circle in the middle. Pour one or two (depending on the party) ladles of goulash into the center of the plate and sprinkle with the fresh chopped rosemary. Clean the rim of your plate with a warm, moist paper towel and serve. Be prepared for praise.    (hide)

  From the article Goulash, The ultimate comfort food

  
  
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  November 2009

  Black Box Wines Merlot 2007

  Snoothrank:

  Plum and blackberry nose. Flavors are tart, with good acidity, light tannin and a hint of black olive on the finish.

  Wine review by mark

  
  
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  November 2009

  Domaine du Mas Blanc Collioure Clos du Moulin 2004

  Snoothrank:

  Mostly Mourvèdre - meaty black olive aromas with dried fruits too; attractive elegant palate showing a lush savoury side vs firm but accessible tannins, dry yet quite fine finish. €23 89+ Lots more Mas Blanc at http://www.winewriting.com/WineWriting%20subspages.htm#RWS Read moreMostly Mourvèdre - meaty black olive aromas with dried fruits too; attractive elegant palate showing a lush savoury side vs firm but accessible tannins, dry yet quite fine finish. €23 89+ Lots more Mas Blanc at http://www.winewriting.com/WineWriting%20subspages.htm#RWS    (hide)

  Wine review by Richard M James

  
  
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  November 2009

  Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Klipsun Vineyard 2006

  Snoothrank:

  Bright, super fruity black ripe cherry aromas. Flavors are deep and rustic, ... and darker berry flavors. Black olive and leather and tar, although surprisingly it seems to brighten on the finish, tailing off with nice tannin and red fruit

  Wine review by mark

  
  

• October 2009

  Pairing Roast Turkey and Syrah By Forming a Flavor Bridge ... of the wine, bacon fat and black olives, forming a brigde between the dish and the wine. What to expect: Syrah One of the few grapes to really be a global success. Syrah... Read more Pairing Roast Turkey and Syrah By Forming a Flavor Bridge ... of the wine, bacon fat and black olives, forming a brigde between the dish and the wine. What to expect: Syrah One of the few grapes to really be a global success. Syrah combines a meaty core of ripe berry fruit, with tones that range from herbal to peppery, in a package that tends to be medium bodied with good acidity and moderate tannins. With age the wines can gain lovely leathery and black olive notes that make them a great match for savory and gamy dishes. Find more Syrah perfect for this dish Bacon Fat and Black Olives: Classic Syrah descriptors Find Ogier's La Rosine Priced from $27.99 Ogier’s La Rosine is a mini Cote Rotie, of sorts.  Though the grapes  come from vineyards that lay between Cote Rotie and Condrieu, this 100% Syrah wine shares many traits with Ogier’s Cote Rotie. In it’s youth it exhibits typical Northern Rhone Syrah notes of grilled meats, red plum fruits and floral tones. With age the fruit melds into the background and  reveals layers of spice, earth, leather, and of course bacon fat and black olives. Roasted Turkey and Root Vegetables with the Essense of Syrah By: Gregory Dal Piaz This is a simple, one dish meal that combines roasted root vegetables with Turkey thighs. It's a recipe that would work well with gamy meats like Duck and Wild Boar as well, since it is formulated to work particularly well with Syrah. If you are not serving Syrah, fear not. This recipe works well with almost any dry wine, white or red. I have used virtually the same recipe, substituting Chicken and Pinot Gris for the Turkey and Syrah, with great results. To download a printable PDF file of this recipe please follow this link. Roasted Turkey Thighs with Aromatic Root Vegetables. Ingredients 3 pounds of Turkey Thighs, about 4 pieces in my case 1 lb Parsnips, sliced on the bias into ½ inch coins1 lb Carrots, sliced on the bias into ½ coins1 lb Rutabaga, quartered and sliced into ½ inch slices10 garlic cloves, peeled 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 1/2 tablespoons Fresh Thyme leaves 1 tablespoon Minced fresh Rosemary 1 tablespoon Kosher Salt 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ lb thick sliced bacon, cut into ¼ inch strips 1 cup wine (I used Syrah) 24 Moroccan cured black olives, halved Technique Preheat oven to 475 °F with rack in middle. Blend together the olive oil, fresh herbs, salt and pepper. In a roasted pan toss the vegetables with the oil mixture and spread the vegetables out into an even layer. Layer the Turkey thighs, skin side up, over the vegetables. Put the roasting pan into the oven. After 20 minutes remove the pan and add the bacon to the vegetable mixture tossing to combine., and keeping the Turkey thighs skin side up on top. Replace the pan in the oven and reduce heat to 350 °F. Bake for an additional 15 minutes, then remove pan from oven and add the wine and the olives to the vegetable mixture, tossing thoroughly to combine. Return to the oven and bake an additional 20 to 25 minutes. Once the turkey thighs are cooked through (165 on an instant read thermometer) remove the pan and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Plate each Turkey thigh than add some of the vegetables as an accompaniment and drizzle the juices over the thigh to complete the plate.    (hide)

  From the article An Autumn dish of Turkey and Root Vegetables with Syrah

  
  

• October 2009

  Tasting Steaks and Red Wine With some surprising results With the weather rapidly changing, it’s just about time to put the grill away for the winter. Well not for all of us, but many will have to wait months to enjoy a great grilled steak once again. As a... Read more Tasting Steaks and Red Wine With some surprising results With the weather rapidly changing, it’s just about time to put the grill away for the winter. Well not for all of us, but many will have to wait months to enjoy a great grilled steak once again. As a final celebration for this grilling season, I spent a day gathering up provisions and several different cuts of meat in order to see what would be the most popular among a group of enthusiastic carnivores! Among the likely subjects were a New York strip steak, a Flank Steak, a Top Sirloin steak and, my favorite, a Flatiron Steak. All of the steaks were marinated in a simple blend of olive oil, red wine, onions and herbs for several hours, and then grilled over hardwood charcoal. The marinade was then used as a simple sauce base, prepared as the steaks cooked. The results were fantastic, with a unanimous winner among the steaks and a surprising wine to pair with them. What to expect: Pinotage Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, is considered to be one of the classic grapes from South Africa. It can produce a very distinctive wine with a hint of rubber on the nose that leads to a rather fruity palate, with notes of banana, plum and cherry. While the grape imay be high in tannins, the wine is produced in a broad range of styles. Find more Pinotage wines All of the steaks were cooked a fine medium rare over a hot, hardwood charcoal grill. The steaks were sliced and presented with the finished sauce on the side so everyone got a chance to try the meat alone and with the sauce. Some reserved marinade was also used as a dipping sauce, with garlic and additional herbs added to create a sort of Chimichurri sauce. The least favorite steak was the Flank steak. It was perfectly cooked with a nice chewy texture but with little marbling, it trailed in the flavor department. The next in line was the New York Strip streak, which was tender and tasty, but neither as tender not as tasty as other cuts. Our runner up? The top sirloin steak was excellent with a rich beefy flavor and chewy but not tough texture it worked well with the marinade and the sauces and benefitted from a bit of extra thickness allowing it to develop a nice char without any sign of overcooking. And the winner was, hands down, the Flatiron steak. Richly flavored, fat is flavor after all, yet meltingly tender it was a superb, succulent piece of meat that handled the infusion of flavor from the marinade effortlessly and stood up to the saucing without missing a beat. This lowly cut of meat, long a secret among foodies, is fast becoming a favorite, and more expensive too boot. It’s no surprise that the Flatiron steak won our little completion. It’s been determined by testing that this cut, from the inside of the shoulder, is the second most tender of the cow, second only to the tenderloin! Unlike many Filets however, the flatiron steak is rich in flavorful marbling and beefy flavor. Marinade serve two functions, infusing flavor and tenderizing tougher cuts of meat. The marinade I used includes a modest amount of red wine, which supplies acid as well as flavor, but relies on the oil to imbue the meat with layers of flavor. With a cut as tender as this you need to be careful not to over marinate the steak. Over marinating occurs when a cut is left in a marinade for too long but is also likely when that marinade is too acidic. To download a printable PDF file of this recipe click here. Red Wine and Herb Marinade In a nonreactive bowl combine thoroughly: 1 Cup Extra Virgin olive oil 1/3 Cup Red Wine 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley leaves, minced 2 tsp Fresh Rosemary leaves, minced 1 tbsp Fresh Oregano leaves 2 fresh bay Leaves ½ tsp Celery seed 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 2 tsp freshly cracked black peppercorns I like to let this marinade infuse overnight before using it. When ready to use, place the marinade and the steaks in a Ziploc bag. Expel as much air from the bag as you can while sealing it, and then thoroughly massage the meat to evenly distribute the seasoning. Allow to marinate in the refrigerator for 2-3 hours. About 30 minutes before you want to grill begin preparing the grill. I use direct heat for a flatiron steak since it’s relatively thin and I want a nice char on my rare to medium rare steak. Remove steak from marinade and wipe clean of most of the marinade solids. In a non-reactive saucepan heat the marinade to a simmer and cook until the volume is reduced by about 20%, approximately the amount of water based liquids in the pan. Once the water has cooked off the onions will begin to cook. I let them sauté until they have just begun to gain some color then remove the sauce from the heat and allow it to cool. Before service I add the juice of half a lemon and 2 tbsp of minced parsley leaves to help refresh the sauce. That is a very simple marinade and dipping sauce for steak that not only enhances the flavor of the meat but also builds a flavor bridge to any wine that will be served with this dish. We tried several wines with our steaks. The bold, young Zinfandel, 2006 Ridge Geyserville to be specific, was a solid match but its richness didn’t cut the richness of the steaks. In fact it worked best with the lean flank steak. Our Cabernet entry, the 2005 Silver Oak Alexander Valley, didn’t really stand up to our marinade though the herbal elements in the wine did bring out the herb notes from the marinade. This might be a better pairing for a broiled or pan seared version of this dish. Our winning wine was the 2006 Warwick Old Bush Vines Pinotage. With a deep smoky tone, bright acidity and reserves of jammy red toned strawberry fruits this offered both complimentary and contrasting notes that meshed perfectly with the steaks.  Perhaps a wine better served with food than without. And that was that. While we were grilling to celebrate the end of the season we were, in fact, breaking in a new grill. It was a successful inaugural fire and I look forward to following up with more grilling adventures, sooner or later. Red Wine and Grilled Steak: A Classic Pairing with a New Twist 2006 Warwick Old Bush Vines Pinotage Priced from $16.49 This has the classic banana tone on the nose that is typical of Pinotage, but it's backed up by wonderfully aromatic notes of smoke and leather with a dry, earthy tone. On the palate the sharp tannins and solid acidity of the wine support slightly chewy dried strawberry and raspberry fruit notes that lead to a long, savory finish Red Wine and Herb Marinade Great with Beef, Lamb and Wild Game Marinades serve two functions, infusing flavor and tenderizing tougher cuts of meat. The marinade I used for these steaks includes a modest amount of red wine, which supplies acid as well as flavor, but relies on the oil and herbs to imbue the meat with layers of flavor.    (hide)

  From the article The Great Steak Shootout

  
  
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  October 2009

  Burlotto G.B. Comm. Barolo Monvigliero 1995

  Snoothrank:

  Orange red amber in color which comes across as slightly more advanced than its ... the details begin to show black olives, dried flowers, tobacco and roasted chestnuts. This gorgeous Barolo glides across the palate and shows a wonderful coming of age for this emerging wine showing... Read moreOrange red amber in color which comes across as slightly more advanced than its ... the details begin to show black olives, dried flowers, tobacco and roasted chestnuts. This gorgeous Barolo glides across the palate and shows a wonderful coming of age for this emerging wine showing olive, meat broth, minerals, mushrooms and a bit of cherry fruit. The finish is long and coats your mouth with cherry, savory broth and minerals. WOW    (hide)

  Wine review by Eric Guido

  
  

• October 2009

  The Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the... Read moreThe Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the village of Verduno. Monvigliero is the pinnacle of their craft, but the more approachable Neirane, also from Verduno, serves as a great introduction to both the house style and the alluringly different wines of Verduno. In addition to these two, rather unique olive and herb scented wines, Burlotto also produces an exemplary Barolo Cannubi as well as a full range of other red varieties. This evening I was more interested in the four wines in front of me, the 1995 Monvigliero and Neirane, as well as the 1996 Cannubi and Neriane. Each bottle performed splendidly, expressing not only the vintages character, but also the terroir of each vineyard beautifully. These are wines that can be deceptive in their youth, seemingly lean and sometimes more savory than fruity but with time their inner beauty is revealed. The balance and freshness of Burlotto Barolo, in fact all of their wines, is a testament not only to the traditional ways of wine production, but also to the care and attention the family focuses on each step in the winemaking process. These may not be wines for everyone, but their natural transparency and pure expression of terroir strike a chord with me and I urge anyone with an interest in Piedmontese wines to sample a few. Don’t be too quick to judge the wines of Burlotto though. Like all the best of Piemonte, they take a bit of time to  open up and reveal themselves but once they do you can’t help but love their honesty, generosity and authenticity.   For more information on Burlotto, the wines and techniques involved please see: Step back in time with Commendatore G.B. Burlotto   1995 Burlotto Barolo Neirane This opens like a remarkable example of Cote Rotie with notes of olives, flowers, red raspberry fruit and an undertone of dried strawberry. With air notes of tar and tobacco emerge and add complexity. In the mouth this is somewhat small scaled but with great focus in a smooth, medium full bodies style with supple wild cherry fruit and light spice tones on the mid-palate that yield to notes of citron and strawberry on the finish. A very fine bottle at maturity with a balanced yet fleshy feel 91pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Neirane The bright aromatic of this wine are full of heather, licorice, smoke, olive brine and menthol notes but the fruit is still a bit reticent. In the mouth one finds superbly fine-grained tannins that are powerful but balanced by notes of white clay, leather and incipient dark raspberry fruits. This offers beautiful precision but remains a bit tight and coy on the palate. I like where this is going though and the aromatics hint that we are almost there.. 92pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Simply wonderful aromatics that ranged from lilacs, to seared cherry, hot rocks, to roses, orange peel, earth and spice all around a core of sweet red fruit. In the mouth there is superb balance with succulent mineral notes and clear, if fairly rich and quite tannic, faceted fruit. The fruit grows in the glass revealing exceptional intensity and purity with significant upside potential. 93pts   1995 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Intense notes of incense and candlewax immediately emerge from the glass joined by dark, smoky, slightly jammy fruits with complicating notes of fish sauce, underbrush, tapenade, thyme and olive oil. In the mouth he tannins are delicate and light if abundant giving the wine a velvety texture. The rosehip and wild cherry fruit is framed by vitamin like mineral notes and a wonderful inner mouth perfume of roses and tapenade. Still youthful this is emerging from its shell and has a very promising future. 93pts.   Below are notes on wines I tasted with winemaker Fabio Alessandria  this past May. Many are just now arriving in the marketplace. 2008 Burlotto Pelaverga Aromatics are intense and deep with penetrating, minerally focus that carries over to the palate. Cranberry fruit on the palate is paired with the intense minerality giving this a downright steely quality but it does lack some of the intensity of the 2007. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Barbera d’Alba Huge, soaring aromatics are captured here with note of cold earth, pollen, wild animale notes and slightly spicy notes of black-fruited hard candy. In the mouth this is perfectly proportioned with deep, lively fruit a hint of round tannin and snappy acids. The finish is dominated by the acids but with excellent length and reverb. Super Barbera. 90pts 2007 Burlotto Freisa Lightly smoky on the nose with an exotic boysenberry coulis note that is countered by dark aromatic spice roots and a hint of leafy geranium. The mouthfeel is both transparent and mouthcoating with a hint of bitterness on the mid-palate. The tannins are pretty big but ripe enough that they already begin to melt away on the finish, which is tarry and spiced with floral tones that compliment the dark plummy red fruits. This is better on the nose at this point. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Nebbiolo Fresh and herbal on the nose with a sandy underlay and suggestions of briary wood and wildflowers adding detail. Huge acidity in the mouth is followed by a wave of fruit and perfectly ripe tannins. The midpalate is laced with minerality that adds cut and definition to the wild cherry and watermelon fruit that gains some pomegranate depth on the back end. This finishes strongly with excellent length and an almost salty, mineral finale. 90pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi Balsamic on the nose with complex aromas of church candle, bay leaf, chalk and wild berry fruits. Nervous with fine-grained tannins in the mouth that frame slightly spice sweet red fruit notes. The feel is wonderfully fresh in the mouth and strikingly transparent though one could wish for a bit more richness to the fruit.  89pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Leathery and slightly bretty on the nose with a deep gamy element that contrasts against the sweet dark fruits of the nose Notes of olive brine, mortadella and carnations emerge from the glass with air. Soft and suave in the mouth with a rich core of spiced fruit supported by great acids that keep this taut and tense. Great camphor tinged cherry fruit in the mouth conceals a bed of ripe tannins. A very well balanced 2005. 93pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Deep and dark on the nose with fruit, heather, dried grass and hints of grilled meats, cinnamon and green anise seed adding great detail. In the mouth this is very classic Barolo with clear acids and assertive if polished tannins supporting the slightly leathery, bright amarena cherry tinged fruit. Fine balance and great length but this is really a bit tight at this point 91pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi A lovely nose of floral tones with savory hints of oregano, olive oil and sundried tomato. In the mouth his is sapid and round with soft tannins and sweet fruit on the palate with hints of fresh green herbs adding detail. The wine is still very tight but well balanced with strawberry fruits and fine, well proportioned structure.  88-90pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Wonderfully aromatic already with precise raspberry fruit framed by hints of campfire, saffron, baked clay and a slight underbrush tone. In the mouth thios is crystal clear with a lean yet very precise feel to the candied red raspberry flavors. The structure is very finely balanced and the tannins are perfectly ripe leading to a fine, long taut finish. An excellent wine in the making 91-94pts      (hide)

  From the article A dinner with the wines of Burlotto

  
  
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  October 2009

  Kenefick Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

  Snoothrank:

  I very much enjoyed this wine. Black cherry balanced with hints of currant, black olive and almost jammy, but with good complexity. Sweet and rich. On the palate it opens and reveals even more nuances. - Tastes at Marché Bacchus 10/3/09

  Wine review by VegasOenophile

  
  

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