Bittersweet

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  November 2009

  Bodega Bouza Tannat A6 2006

  Snoothrank: Starting at $41^.99

  Yowzza! the Bouza is back. Deep and dark with generous plum and cherry liquor fruit. Hints of bittersweet chocolate and coffee lace the nose while a rip of tannin completes the package. A favorite!

  Wine review by grapelab

  
  
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  October 2009

  Stanley Lambert Choc-a-Bloc

  Snoothrank:

  I usually do not like ports at all, but perhaps it's the infusion of dark ... Rich, decadent and bittersweet in the best way. - Tasted at Marché Bacchus 10/17/09 with Stanley Lambert owner Jim Lamber

  Wine review by VegasOenophile

  
  
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  September 2009

  St. Clement Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1987

  Snoothrank:

  This smelled cool and lean with nice balanced notes of bittersweet cocoa, leafy tobacco and notes of French oak. This has a nice redder cherry tone and a nice ivy/leafy greenness that makes me think there’s some Cabernet Franc in here. Fairly evolved with notes of soy lurking in... Read moreThis smelled cool and lean with nice balanced notes of bittersweet cocoa, leafy tobacco and notes of French oak. This has a nice redder cherry tone and a nice ivy/leafy greenness that makes me think there’s some Cabernet Franc in here. Fairly evolved with notes of soy lurking in the stiff fresh fruit. This is rich and fairly precise up front with a finish that is a bit short with some chewy tannins but still fairly well preserved fruits. At peak. 90pts    (hide)

  Wine review by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• September 2009

  From the article Mature California Cabernet 9/2009

  
  

• July 2009

  I spent my summer vacation in New York City and Cape Cod eating and drinking ... trip - a refreshing, icy, bittersweet way to beat the heat), I went on to polish off, almost single-handedly a bottle of Veuve Clicquot.  I have not spent a great deal of time drinking Veuve and have... Read moreI spent my summer vacation in New York City and Cape Cod eating and drinking ... trip - a refreshing, icy, bittersweet way to beat the heat), I went on to polish off, almost single-handedly a bottle of Veuve Clicquot.  I have not spent a great deal of time drinking Veuve and have told myself I should read the book recently published, Madame Clicquot.  Well, I must say, the most recognizable wine label in all the world, doesn’t over-deliver or excite me.  At forty-or-so-bucks a bottle, Veuve offers a little less elegance in the glass than I would expect from such a cost.  Playing poker and drinking Champers while my buddies drank beers, I felt a little sophisticated; I thought it would be a worthy complement to my card playing strategies.  It wasn’t.  Maybe I would have had better luck with a $10 bottle of Procesco or $2 beer. My next stop was Locanda Verde, Andrew Carmellini’s new place in the Greenwich Hotel.  The day prior to my visit Frank Bruni at the NY Times gave the spot a solid review and two stars.  Not sure if any chef/owner would consider two stars a good review, but I debated a friend whether or not a person should (or does a person) in NYC live, breath and eat by Bruni’s reviews?  I was curious.  Let’s think about the demographic profile of the New York Times reader.  I’ll pass on projecting my views, and just give you them right from the online media kit from their website; Median age 50.  Individual Earned Income, $71K.  The latter is an interesting number considering, according to the NY Times, 68% of their readers own their own homes.  Can that be in NYC or the Tri-State area if the earned individual income is $71K (or the average HHI is $114K)?  Maybe I have been away too long, but I thought real estate was expensive in NY!?!?  I digress.  Anyhow.  Enough of the Times audience profile. The restaurant, wholly Italian, from apperitivi to amari, from banquet to bar, it looked and feeled like a popular French Bistro cut out of the American imagination of what a French Bistro should be, but instead of French food, it served Italian.  After living in Italy for a year and eating and drinking my way around, I will say, I approached nothing that looked like this place.  But this is New York, and New Yorkers live with a certain expression that goes beyond the realities of the world (and good for them for that).  Anyhow.  I arrived at 5 pm and by departure at 7 pm, the place was wall-to-wall, its fair share of tourists, hotel guests, business suits and stylish types filled the seats and ate the modern take on crostini and such.  I waffled on what wine to order, passing on a white from Quintarelli to linger over a bottle of Vie di Romans Flor di Uis - a massive white blend that is seductive on the nose, textured on the palate and refreshing on the finish.  After looking it up online, the wine contains (Tocai) Friulano, Reisling and Malvasia.  It is a serious white wine. And an aspirational wine when I think about the white blend I will be producing this year that has its influences in North East Italy. I was off to Cape Cod next and spent three days visiting old friends while putting back some Sam Adams, more Campari and Soda, a few rum based drinks, vodka and soda as the nights drew long and a little white wine here and there (did enjoy a 2007 La Cream Chardonnay, a high-quality, value Chardonnay hitting all the tell-tale characteristics as the wine warmed up in the glass).  When the weather is warm and humid and the smell of sea salt is in the air, chowder, cod cakes and lobster adorn your plate; it is way too hard to think about drinking red wines.  And as noted by the choices above, you can see that I didn’t drink much wine at all.  It was a good escape. However, upon returning to Brooklyn before shuffling back to California, I convinced myself to wine well over my last supper in the City.  I write this on the plane, with last night’s dinner in Brooklyn lingering on the mind.  I visited Franny’s with my mother and friends.  Franny’s is exclusive Italian pizza and wine.  I brought a bottle of Kerber Friulano with me, only to be confronted when I popped it on the bar that it was already on the restaurant’s list.  The bartender was gracious enough to let me know we could definitely open it for a $25 corkage fee (and the waitress was later thanking us for bringing an “Italian” wine; well I had to thank my friends for gifting it to me a week earlier when we ate at Vinegar Hill House).  So, I wasn’t going to let the restaurant staff’s graciousness down by just consuming our wine.  I picked out an aperitif wine, a 500mL bottle of Edi Kante Chardonnay, 2005. I was excited to try this wine, been reading about Kante for some time but never experienced his wines in full.  I will say the Chardonnay was subtle, was shy and stony, was on the knife-edge of elegant, rusty, honeyed ageiness. I kept sticking my nose in the glass and tried to extract more from the wine and the wine responded, drawing me deeper and bottoming out; enticing me to come back another time.  This is the essence of a great wine - it lingers and leaves you with a desire for more.  Unfortunately, 500 mL and four people doesn’t account for much, but I will be back.  Onto the Kerber. Here’s the thing I have learned with some artisanal white wines from Friuli (and I should have taken this learning into account), there tends to be a period after bottling, what I have found to be about two years, that could be considered a ‘dumb’ period in the wine.  The wine is completely shut down, a bit backward and turning in on itself.  There is no fruit, just creamy, reductive characters and shyness.  I am baffled by this and need to explore it further; and when I have the ‘winemaker’s’ answer, I will report in full. After sharing four or five appetizers from eggplant with golden raisin and pine nuts lathered in oil to artichoke crostini, we moved on to our pizzas and a bottle of 2006 Cos Cerasuolo di Vittoria “Pithos”.  The Pithos is made in terracotta amphora housed under ground and goes after all the ancient Roman winemaking techniques via the Sicilian grape varieties - Nero d’Avola and Frappato.  The wine jumped out of the bottle immediately with spicy red licorice wrapped in barnyard meat and funk. There was a touch of dried herbs, a la vermouth in the mouth and again a spicy, bitter cherry finish on rather soft tannin and good acid backbone.  The wine, which I haven’t consumed since I lived in Sicily, was quite a treat and a good value considering a bottle of Radikon or Gravner made in similar style will cost you almost double on the retail shelf. So, that is it.  My plane is on descent into San Francisco airport.  And I am happy to be back in California, counting the days until harvest has me knee deep in red and white wine grapes.  T-minus…. Dan Petroski is Assistant Winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley. Dan has an MBA from New York University and worked as an Ad Exec in New York for several years, before switching it up and trading his suit for a move out wes    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Summer Vacation. by danpetroski

  
  
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  July 2009

  Guido Porro Barolo "Vigna Lazzairasco" 2004

  Snoothrank:

  Initially deep and dark with baked earth notes and a touch of skunk to the ... that emulated the tension of bittersweet chocolate that was followed by a flood of sweet, wild cherry fruit with a huge medicinal top note. Air caused this to close down significantly, concealing the... Read moreInitially deep and dark with baked earth notes and a touch of skunk to the ... that emulated the tension of bittersweet chocolate that was followed by a flood of sweet, wild cherry fruit with a huge medicinal top note. Air caused this to close down significantly, concealing the fruit and highlighting the formidable tannins. The initial taste revealed a wine with lovely polish to the tannins super acids, just a wonderful mouthful of Barolo, layered complex and with inner mouth harmony yet no shortage of energy and big power on the finish with a touch of aged animal/pork fat 92pt    (hide)

  Wine review by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• July 2009

  As many of you know I am very enthusiastic about the latest Barolo releases. ... that emulated the tension of bittersweet chocolate that was followed by a flood of sweet, wild cherry fruit with a huge medicinal top note.  Air caused this to close down significantly, concealing the... Read more As many of you know I am very enthusiastic about the latest Barolo releases. ... that emulated the tension of bittersweet chocolate that was followed by a flood of sweet, wild cherry fruit with a huge medicinal top note.  Air caused this to close down significantly, concealing the fruit and highlighting the formidable tannins. The initial taste revealed a wine with lovely polish to the tannins super acids, just a wonderful mouthful of Barolo, layered complex and with inner mouth harmony yet no shortage of energy and big power on the finish with a touch of aged animal/pork fat 92pts Marty found this to be “full of cherry and earth.” John thought this was “totally classic but approachable” while Mark felt this was “totally typical.” Luigi Pira Barolo - This started out quite reticent with subtle menthol and balsamic notes that morphed into a wonderfully aromatic nose redolent of waxy fruits, violets and vegetal undertones. Initially this was disjointed, rich and yet cut in half by the bright acidity that highlighted the red currant and cranberry tones of the fruit. The backend was quite lean and tapered off on the finish. Air brought out the lovely, polished ripe tannins that gave this wine the texture of flannel and helped support deep, rich, chewy red fruits in a rich, tannic style of wine that hag great lingering length.  This will get better and better. 91pts James felt the “tannins are really drying” while Mark thought the “tannins are sweet”.  Marty enjoyed the “big body and nice full finish” of this wine. Guido Porro Barolo Santa Caterina - This was wonderfully fresh on the nose with heather floral tones and whisps of wild strawberry emerging with some air yet with time the floral elements took control of the aromatics and added a base of cigarette smoke, oily coffee beans and spearmint that was compelling.  Polished and broad in the mouth with wonderfully fresh strawberry fruit and elegant notes of anise and herbs, this remains lithe and refreshing in the mouth. Air adds to the power here, introducing a touch of pruniness and the fruit turns darker but retains a seamlessness and purity that is very attractive. A wonderful bottle of Barolo 93pts. John thought this resembled a “Barolo Chinato” And with that a pretty awesome tasting was ended. I am glad to say I have already laid down all of these wines in my cellar except for the Rizzi and Franco Conterno, which were picked up at their respective wineries. I would love to have additional bottles of both stored away and plan to work on remedying that situation soon! These are lovely wines, approachable by Barolo standards, and real values in today's marketplace. So get out there and see what's lying about on your retailers shelves. With the retail market they way it is I wouldn't be surprised if you could find these wines for a song, and perhaps a dance! Gregory Dal Piaz Community Manager Snooth    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Barolo 2004, do bargains... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  
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  May 2009

  Nardini Aquavit

  Snoothrank:

  This is not a grappa for the novice! Intense and well structured, it satisfies ... with notes of espresso and bittersweet chocolate supported by a backbone of 50% alcohol. Enjoy specifically with chocolate cannoli or sip on its own and visualize the cannoli in front of you... Read moreThis is not a grappa for the novice! Intense and well structured, it satisfies ... with notes of espresso and bittersweet chocolate supported by a backbone of 50% alcohol. Enjoy specifically with chocolate cannoli or sip on its own and visualize the cannoli in front of you anyway...it won't be a stretch of the imagination. Graduates of this bottle will swoon over Nardini's Acquavite Riserva, a stupendous grappa with inexplicable complexity derived from 15 years aging in Slovenian oak. A masterpeice    (hide)

  Wine review by Zinifera

  
  
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  April 2009

  Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee 2005

  Snoothrank:

  Dangerously easy to drink. Should be called Love Potion #10. Perfect for ... delicious with dark, dark, bittersweet, high cocoa content chocolate

  Wine review by JoyBubbles

  
  

• April 2009

  You may not have heard, previously, of the Tales of the Cocktail conference ... Wednesday, 8 July: 10:30 - Bittersweet Truth of Starting a Bar [seminars that really only pertain to people who work in the Industry, so I'll be roaming] 16:30 - The Fine Art of Banging Out the Drinks... Read moreYou may not have heard, previously, of the Tales of the Cocktail conference ... Wednesday, 8 July: 10:30 - Bittersweet Truth of Starting a Bar [seminars that really only pertain to people who work in the Industry, so I'll be roaming] 16:30 - The Fine Art of Banging Out the Drinks like a Maniac Thursday, 9 July: 10:30 - Mixologists and Their Toys 12:30 - The Molecular DNA of Classic Cocktails 14:30 - Chemistry of Cocktails 16:30 - New Orleans Pharmacists (Cocktail Hour) Friday, 10 July: 10:30 - Cocktails of the Tales 12:30 - Low Country Libations 14:30 - Cocktails Born from the Seven Seas 16:30 - Drink Italy (On the Fly Competition) Saturday, 11 July 10:30 - Cocktail Legends 12:30 - Historical Approach to Cocktails 14:30 - Hammer of the Gods 16:30 - The Science of Shaking (7 Deadly Sins) Sunday, 12 July 10:30 - Paying the Piper: Your Hangover and You 12:30 - Liquid Nudging Please, join me, if only for a day or two. I've got one of those sold out rooms at the Monteleone and, based on how these hotel bookings usually run ("King or double, sir?") some crash space if necessary, with the caveat that Thursday and Friday nights may garner someone else preference (Louisa W-S, for those of you who know who that means). Bear in mind, of course, that joining me means joining several of my friends (Nicholas & Phil of Apothecary in Philadelphia for sure, maybe Christian of the same plus Noble, Phoebe of the Ugly American, and Maria of Amada, each in the same), several people I'd like to call friends but refrain from name-dropping in that context (Tad of the Tippling Brothers, Misty of Drink in Boston, various parties from PDT, Death & Company, usw. in NYC), several of whom are acquainted with people like Misters Regan, DeGroff, and Wondrich. That's meant as simultaneous warning and enticement. Feel free to follow up here or privately if you're interested in more detail    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Tales of the Cocktail 2009 by gr

  
  

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