Big dishes

• November 2009

  Frankly it limits big-ticket bottles completely, since no dishes are going to cost $100 or more. And in no way will it be possible to serve enough food to make up for a restaurant's margins on big bottles. Wish all restaurants 'only' added 100% of their costs to each bottle on their... Read moreFrankly it limits big-ticket bottles completely, since no dishes are going to cost $100 or more. And in no way will it be possible to serve enough food to make up for a restaurant's margins on big bottles. Wish all restaurants 'only' added 100% of their costs to each bottle on their wine lists. ;-( Hard to imagine how this proposed bylaw can be allowed to interfere with the Olympian levels of income eating establishments will aim for in the next few months....    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Vancouver thinks wine... by dmcker

  
  

• November 2009

  Fibo, we cook simple fresh Mediterranean food at a pretty easy price (nothing over $30). We have a background in French cuisine, the owners were the head chef and head pastry chef at Bistro Moncur until Blanco opened, and I cooked the meat and called the pass at Moncur also. Now... Read moreFibo, we cook simple fresh Mediterranean food at a pretty easy price (nothing over $30). We have a background in French cuisine, the owners were the head chef and head pastry chef at Bistro Moncur until Blanco opened, and I cooked the meat and called the pass at Moncur also. Now we're not confined to strictly French food so we're cooking food that's more casual and fun. You should come in and check us out, we're in the big white "Barcelona" building in Roslyn St. http://www.blancorestaurant.com.au is our website and it lists the menu and wines but is very outdated. It gives a pretty reasonable idea as to our theme and pricing but half the dishes have changed and the wine list has developed a lot. I'm nagging away regularly so hopefully it will be updated soon.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Kia ora by Richard Learmonth

  
  

• November 2009

  Two Chefs Compare Notes One's a little country, one's a little big city. I’ve read a lot of cookbooks in my life. Some are indispensible reference works, some are entirely dispensable regifts, and some are just plain fun and inspirational. Down home:... Read more Two Chefs Compare Notes One's a little country, one's a little big city. I’ve read a lot of cookbooks in my life. Some are indispensible reference works, some are entirely dispensable regifts, and some are just plain fun and inspirational. Down home: downtown, which compares the recipes of two of wine country's best Chefs, is one of those cookbooks that you actually want to read. Published by Rodney Strong Vineyards, down home:downtown represents the essence of wine country cooking. Wine friendly dishes that draw on the bounty of local farms in all their seasonal glory. Each chef has carefully crafted a set of recipes based on the same basket of main ingredients. It’s Iron Chef on paper, and a blast to read. It would make a great gift for your favorite foodie/wine geek. The recipes are clear, easy to follow, and precise, though these are restaurant recipes so some involve quite a few steps.  I love the way the dishes are presented, and the photos, of the dishes, the respective restaurants, and the Sonoma countryside are gorgeous.  I had to pop a bottle of Rodney Strong’s 2006 Knotty Vines Zinfandel to enjoy while reading down home: downtown, and just happened upon a wonderful foil to this fine wine. What to expect: Zinfandel Zinfandel is considered America's own great indigenous grape, even though its origins lie on the Adriatic coast. Planted throughout California and the Pacific Northwest, Zinfandel is at its best in warm regions with cooler temperatures during harvest. The wines can range from off-dry Rosés (aka White Zinfandel) and light bistro styled wines, to big, rich powerful wines - and even luscious dessert wines. The flavors range from plummy to raspberry, although deep blackberry fruit and brambly spice tones are most common. Find more Zinfandel Two great recipes. Which one is right for you? Apple Wood Smoked Pork Chops with Fresh Applesauce By:Jeff Mall Jeff Mall, the down home half of this duo of Chefs, hangs his hat at Healdsburg’s Zin Restaurant and Wine Bar.  His version of Pork Chops and applesauce exudes classic country cooking style Pork Chops with Fennel-Apple Salad and Potato Pancakes By: Josh Silvers Josh Silver’s Syrah bistro, located right off the plaza in downtown Santa Rosa, bring an international flair to his dish, pairing the pork with fennel, crisp potato pancakes, and a sophisticated Aioli. Zin Restaurant & Wine Bar (Jeff Mall) 344 Center St. Healdsburg, CA 9544 707.473.0946 Apple Wood–Smoked Pork Chops with Fresh Applesauce, Braised Rainbow Chard, and Corn Bread Stuffing follow this link for a printable pdf file of this recipe For the pork chops: In a large bowl, combine the beer, salt, sugar, molasses, Sriracha hot sauce, garlic, peppercorns, and thyme. Add the water and stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Add the pork chops, cover, and refrigerate for 12 hours. For the applesauce: In a large, heavy skillet, melt the sugar over medium-high heat, shaking the pan frequently, until it just begins to turn golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the apples, lime juice, and salt. (The caramel will clump, but will melt as the applesauce cooks; add a little water to melt it if necessary.) Cook, stirring often and adjusting the heat as needed to prevent scorching, until the apples are soft and caramelized a light brown color, about 15 minutes.  Remove from the heat and stir in the cinnamon. Set aside. For the corn bread stuffing: Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, turning, until well browned on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the onion, celery, and green pepper and sauté until the onion is translucent and soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the parsley, sage, and chicken broth and bring to a boil. Put the corn bread in a large, shallow 8-cup baking dish and pour the onion mixture over the corn bread. Stir gently to coat and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to the oven and bake until browned, about 20 minutes.  Remove from the oven and keep warm. While the stuffing is baking, prepare a charcoal grill for indirect-heat cooking, mounding the hot coals on one side of the grill. Remove the pork from the brine (discard the brine) and pat dry. Soak the apple wood chips in warm water for 10 minutes; drain. Sprinkle the apple wood chips over the coals and place the pork chops on the indirect-heat area of the grill (not over the coals). Cover the grill and smoke the pork chops for 20 minutes. Remove the cover and open the vents to increase the heat; if needed, add a few more coals. Move the pork chops to the direct-heat area of the grill and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each side for medium. Transfer to a plate and tent with aluminum foil; let rest for 5 minutes. For the rainbow chard: Coarsely chop the chard leaves. In a large skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Add the onion and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Working in batches, add the chard and cook until wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar and chicken broth, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the chard is tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm. To serve, reheat the applesauce over low heat. Spoon a mound of corn bread stuffing into the center of each of 4 dinner plates. Top each with one-fourth of the chard. Lean a pork chop against each mound and add a spoonful of applesauce. Makes 4 main-course servings Syrah Bistro (Josh Silvers) 205 Fifth St. Santa Rosa CA 707.568.4002 Pork Chops with Fennel-Apple Salad and Potato Pancakes follow this link for a printable pdf file of this recipe For the pork chops: In a medium saucepan, combine the water, salt, vinegar, sugar, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil over high heat, then remove from the heat, and let cool completely. Pour over the pork chops in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours. Meanwhile, for the fennel-apple salad: Using a mandoline or very sharp knife, cut the apple and fennel into paper thin slices. Put the slices in a bowl, cover with ice water, and soak for 30 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, sugar, lemon zest, and olive oil together. Season with salt and pepper. Drain the fennel and apple well and toss with the vinaigrette. For the aioli: On a cutting board, mince the garlic with the salt and mash with the flat edge of the knife until it forms a paste. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolk, lemon juice, and mustard together. Whisk in the garlic paste. Combine the oils in a measuring cup and, whisking constantly, add them to the yolk mixture a few drops at a time until the mixture is emulsified and all the oil is incorporated. (If the mixture separates, stop adding the oil and continue whisking until mixture comes together, then resume adding oil.) Whisk in the fennel pollen and season with salt and pepper. If the aioli is too thick, whisk in 1 or 2 drops of water. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. For the potato pancakes: Using the large holes on a box grater, shred the potato and onion into a bowl of hot water. Drain, cover with more hot water, and drain again. Cover with cold water, rinse, then drain very well. Spread the shreds on a clean kitchen towel, roll it up, and wring to squeeze out as much water as you can. Empty the shreds into a bowl and add the egg, flour, salt, and pepper; stir to combine thoroughly. Gently shape the mixture into 4 equal cakes. In a large, heavy skillet, heat 1⁄2 inch oil over high heat to 375°F (a shred of potato will sizzle and brown almost instantly), and add the potato pancakes. Flatten each gently with a metal spatula and fry until golden brown on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip over and cook until golden brown on second side and tender throughout, 3 to 4 minutes more. Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Drain the pork chops and pat dry. Grill for 6 or 7 minutes on each side for medium. Place a potato pancake on each of 4 dinner plates and top each with a pork chop. Add a spoonful of aioli and the fennel-apple salad. Garnish with fennel fronds if desired and serve. Makes 4 main-course servings   down home:downtown makes a great gift and can be ordered directly from each restaurant. Support these two fine chefs by making a reservation at either Zin Restaurant or Syrah Bistro during your next trip to wine country. If you can't make it to Sonoma, bring their cooking home. Purchase a copy of down home:downtown and share the bounty of Sonoma with friends and family alike. Zin Restaurant & Wine Bar      Syrah Bistro    (hide)

  From the article down home: downtown

  
  

• October 2009

  Although I seem to remember the odd reference to 'Canary Sack' in old English literature (including Shakespeare's Merry Wives of Windsor and Henry IV), I hadn't really seen much less tasted any until I found myself passing through Tenerife a few years back. I wasn't there all that... Read moreAlthough I seem to remember the odd reference to 'Canary Sack' in old English literature (including Shakespeare's Merry Wives of Windsor and Henry IV), I hadn't really seen much less tasted any until I found myself passing through Tenerife a few years back. I wasn't there all that long, but still have vivid memories of the volcanic landscape, striking folk music, great seafood, and drinking wine in the midst of all of that and even with several banana dishes (I remember a lot of bananas from there... ;-) ). One of the big names is D.O. Lanzarote, with striking bush vineyards planted in the middle of desert-like surroundings. The white Malvasías from there has been good for a long time and was generally anglicized in the past as Malmsey. Some dry and many sweet, with even a hint of sherry-like flavor, though they are unfortified. My guess is they are likely to be part of plenty of wine tours in the islands as the Canaries have upped their tourism (esp. wine tourism) in recent years. Another good D.O. is Tacoronte-Acentejo, in the north of Tenerife, with distinctive reds made from the local Listán grape. Canary wines are very few and far between in Tokyo where I currently live. Some wines I've had this decade when traveling elsewhere (esp. to Spain) include: --Vinos de Terrunos German Gilabert Rosat Trepa --Butan Crater --Tajinaste Blanco Listan Blanco, Tajinaste Tradicional Listan Negro --Enologia Temera Mencia VV --Vevi Rueda Some with vintage appellations, and other NV. There are plenty of others, I'm sure, but those are the ones I remember amidst the wines from other parts of Spain (so many wines, so little time...). You'll commonly find both dry and sweet whites (the old Sack/Malmsey wines were likely quite strong and sweet), One bubbly dessert wine I remember is a non-vintage Cheste Agraria Muscat. Alhough muscat is generally not at the top of my list, versions from the Canaries and Greece are some of the best I've had. And though I haven't yet tried them, and don't know their shipping restrictions, I have run across an online sales site for Canary wines: http://shop.tucanarias.com/categorias.php?cat=1 Finally, some inspiring words from Shakespeare's Henry IV: "But i faith, you have drunk too much canaries and that’s a marvellous searching wine, and it perfumes the blood ere one can say: What’s this?" Recognize the sensation from wines even beyond the Canaries? ;-)    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What wines from the Canary... by dmcker

  
  

• October 2009

  Spicy Green Chili Stew and a Fiesty Red Mencia from Spain tames this bold dish As the weather cools and my thoughts turn to hearty stews and braises, it’s nice to be able to transition slowly from the lighter fare of summer. My weeknight meal of a deep, long... Read more Spicy Green Chili Stew and a Fiesty Red Mencia from Spain tames this bold dish As the weather cools and my thoughts turn to hearty stews and braises, it’s nice to be able to transition slowly from the lighter fare of summer. My weeknight meal of a deep, long simmered dish can be just the ticket for welcoming the arrival of cool, crisp  weather. However it may not be the right time for me to go looking for the rich wines that are a easy match. In its place I look for something a bit more retrained perhaps, and certainly easier on the wallet. The 2005 Flavium Bierzo Crianza is great example of an affordable option, perfect for Wednesday night, but a wine I welcome any day of the week. Coming from the Bierzo region of Spain, and made with 100% Mencia, this wine captures the warmth and exuberance of Spain with its bold fruit but at the same time reflects a complex and historic past. Mencia is capable of producing deep, layered wines but even this Crianza, signifying the wine spent only at least 6 months in oak barrels, has a nuanced character that speaks to me and sets this apart from similar, fruit driven, wines. What to expect: Mencia Menica is the red grape of the Bierzo region in Spain. It produces a medium bodied red wine with good acidity and slightly rustic, though fine grained, tannins that support dark cherry fruit with complicating notes of spice, earth, tar and herbs.    Show me more wines from Bierzo Before diving deeply into the pantheon of Beef and lamb dishes that are the staples of winter, I always look to pork to help make the transition from lighter summer fare to the stick to the ribs dishes I use to fend off the chill of winter. Pork and green chilies are a wonderful pairing, I find the typical Pork in green chili sauce sometimes  lacks a little oomph for my tastes, so I’ve taken a bit of creative license here. With my busy schedule I try and make one pot dishes whenever possible so the addition of some beans, and posole is not only in keeping with the south of the border spirit of this dish but takes this Chile verde from oh! to Wow! In my book.   This dish can get a bit spicy so look for a fruity, full-bodied red with soft tannins to pair here though a big, rich white would work as well. I’ve chosen the Flavium Bierzo specifically because of its soft tannins, rich, subtly spicy fruit and great balance, and it’s a wonderful match.   I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. The subtle spice of this pork stew pairs perfectly with the plush fruit of Mencia. 2005 Flavium Bierzo Crianza Priced from $8.84 This is a lovely little wine with ripe fruit scents that waft from the glass, uncomplicated but fresh and pure. The palate is soft and enveloping with sweet red fruit tones, good acids and just enough tannin to give this some weight in the mouth. Spicy Pork and Green Chile Stew By: Gregory Dal Piaz This take on Pork in Salsa verde introduces an extra layer of spice and smoky heat to the traditional reecipe while making it an easy one-pot dinner with the addition of beans and posole. An autumn dish to warm the soul. To download a printable PDF file of this recipe please click here. Greg’s Great Green Chili Stew Ingredients to serve 4 ¼ cup olive oil 2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 chipotle chilies, crushed 1 tsp. dried oregano 2 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground cumin 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 medium onions, peeled and ½ inch dice 2 tsp salt 1 pound tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and quartered 1 qt chicken stock 2 bay leaves 1 16oz can posole (hominy) 1 16 oz can pink beans (All canned beans and posole should be rinsed with water in a colander, to wash way all traces of canning residue, before using them) 3 Poblano Chilies, roasted*, peeled and 1 inch dice Or-2 7 oz. cans California green chilies, seeded and chopped For Garnish: Fresh Cilantro leaves, Diced red onion, diced tomato, lime wedges Technique Over a medium high flame heat the Dutch oven. When it’s hot add 2 tbsp of the oil and then brown the pork cubes. You may have to do this step in batches to avoid crowding. Once the cubes are well browned on all sides remove them from the pot. Add the Crushed Chipotles, oregano, coriander and cumin to the fat that remains in the pot, adding the remaining tbsp of oil if necessary, and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minutes, keep stirring the spice mixture to prevent burning Add the sliced garlic and sauté with the spice blend until fragrant, about 90 seconds. Add the diced onions and salt to the pot and stir well. Continue cooking until the onions have begun to brown, approximately 8 minutes. Add the tomatillos to the onion mixture and blend well. Reduce the heat and simmer until the tomatillos have softened and released their liquid, about 10 minutes. Add the reserved pork cubes, chicken stock, bay leaves, pink beans, posole, and green chilies to the pot, blend well, and allow to simmer until pork is fork tender. Make sure that the stew doesn’t become too dry. Add water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve garnished with Cilantro, diced red onion and diced tomato with a squeeze of lime. This dish is actually better reheated so don’t be shy about doubling the recipe and saving some for leftovers! * Roasting Poblano chilies is easy to do on any open flame. Simply rest the chili on your stove top (or oven broiler) and leave in the flame until the skin is burnt and blistered. Once the chilies are charred on all sides remove them to a bag or closed container to allow them to steam while they cool. That will make peeling them all the easier. You can wash off the charred skin that remains on the chilies under running water but I like to leave some on for this dish as it adds a bit of extra smokiness to the finished product.    (hide)

  From the article Green Chili Stew and Mencia

  
  

• September 2009

  Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir     Pairing vegetarian dishes with red wines is often like being dropped at a random lot in Tbilisi (true story).  Wine writers, tasters, and critics always scream, Meat! as the first red drop hits their tongues,... Read moreExperiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir     Pairing vegetarian dishes with red wines is often like being dropped at a random lot in Tbilisi (true story).  Wine writers, tasters, and critics always scream, Meat! as the first red drop hits their tongues, leaving me and nearly ten million other vegetarians in the US, with nowhere to turn.  And while I get the bits about tannins and proteins and fat, as a vegetarian, I see no reason to condemn myself to a life of white grape imprisonment.   As the temperature drops, the contents of my glass evolves from white and pink to red, while I reach for my Russian and Georgian cookbooks, in search of something transitional, that’ll lead me through the change.  And though not oft associated with vegetarian fare, these regions, along with the Mediterranean and Middle East, inspire the meatless meals that set our dining room table throughout the year.  With Georgia on my mind, I walk through the farmer’s market and stop before a display of green beans--dark in color, glistening, and piled high.  It’s been almost a year since I last cooked “Georgian Green Beans”, a dish that includes cilantro, onions, garlic and eggs, and so I buy a pound or so and take it home.  Before cooking or uncorking a bottle, I thumb through What to Drink with What you Eat, a brilliant tome by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, curious to see their suggested pairings for green beans and cilantro.  Locating my ingredients, I am not surprised to find only white wines.  And since I have none in my fridge and starving is not an option—nor is dinner without wine—I have to think quick and experiment with what I’ve got. Georgians traditionally use a lot of walnuts in their dishes, and walnuts, with their oily proteins and bitter finish, tend to pair well with the tannins in red wine.  And so, I turn to Please to the Table—the Russian Cookbook by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman, in search of some inspiration and find it in a recipe for a green bean and walnut salad. Sifting through a lifetime of pairings, I consider the fact that green beans are often served at Thanksgiving, as are sometimes walnuts.  With this in mind, I pull a bottle that had just arrived in the mail (courtesy of the winery itself)—Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007, because I think it might work, with the wine assuming the role of a mouth-watering enhancer, like Thanksgiving dinner’s cranberry sauce.  Light red fruit, tangy, and slightly sweet—the flavors I expect from a Pinot from Oregon—fruity but not as ripe as one from California, where the warmer climate yields riper grapes and wines with big fruit. I pop the cork and pour a glass and sure enough, there it is—tart fruit on the nose, red cherry, raspberry, and cranberry; a little earth and spice.  At 14.5% abv, there is a slight burn at the back of the throat, but not the full-on-blaze that I’d expected.  The finish is slightly bitter and astringent, like cranberry sauce, and after a few sips, I bite into a walnut, roll the flavors around my mouth, and…Yes.  The wine’s fruit and acidity tempers the walnut’s bitter finish…but cilantro?  I pull a few leaves from a sprig, take a sip, and tear into the herb with my teeth.  Suddenly two great waves rise in the midst of my kitchen, one cresting cilantro, and the other bright red fruit.  Opposite one another, the waves peak, fall into each other and crash—leaving a sopping wet mess on my floor.  Cilantro is out. Snapping a raw bean in two, I sense earth and herbal spice.  Raw, it is not a perfect match with the wine, but perhaps cooking might temper the flavors, or in the end, they might just pair better with an Old World Syrah.  Finally, since garlic=acidity, of which the wine has plenty, the recipe is adapted and I am ready to cook.   Green Bean Salad with Walnuts 1/2 cup ground walnuts 2 medium garlic cloves crushed 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon water 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound of trimmed green beans, cut in half 1/4 medium-sized red onion, sliced thin salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste --Combine walnuts, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, water, and oil.  Mix thoroughly and let stand for 30 minutes. --Boil enough salted water to cover the beans when added; then boil for as long as you like, no longer than 7 minutes.  Drain and cool in ice water. Drain and pat dry. --Toss beans with onion and add the dressing.  Season with salt and pepper, and toss again. (Adapted from Please to the Table—the Russian Cookbook by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman.) Pairing is a two-way street.  One route reflects how the wine affects the food and the other how the food alters, enhances, or neutralizes the wine.  My immediate reaction to this particular pairing is Yes. I love how the Pinot coaxes the acidity of the red wine vinegar from the dish, encouraging the salad to shine, until it’s so full of life that flavors are popping like fireworks in my mouth.  The green bean salad is suddenly illuminated, but in reverse, the walnut dressing coats the tongue, like a pair of shades on a sun-dazzle day.  It somehow reduces the wine’s fruit and acidity, which works if you, like me, are one who prefers your fruit with the volume turned down.  In this particular pairing, the sweet fruit of the wine is transferred to the dish, which establishes a relationship that involves a little sacrifice.  It’s an interesting and fun experiment that anyone with a little time on his or her hands can conduct at home.  It’s a pairing that serves to strengthen my resolve—this commitment to keep searching through ingredients, aromas, textures, and flavors until I find pairings that enhance both vegetarian dishes and red wines. By: Karen Ulrich Imbibe New York      (hide)

  From the article Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir

  
  
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  September 2009

  Owen Roe Abbot's Table 2007

  Snoothrank: Starting at $19^.95

  What a pleasant surprise! Initiially taste lots of fruit, but not overpowering and very balanced. Soft tannins, very drinkable. Would please a wide range of red-lovers. Good by itself or would pair nicely with lighter dishes. I know another review suggested it would go well with... Read moreWhat a pleasant surprise! Initiially taste lots of fruit, but not overpowering and very balanced. Soft tannins, very drinkable. Would please a wide range of red-lovers. Good by itself or would pair nicely with lighter dishes. I know another review suggested it would go well with hearty fare, I found it to be softer and very smooth. Will definitely buy again!    (hide)

  Wine review by MBSolberg

  
  
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  September 2009

  Weinert Carrascal 2005

  Snoothrank:

  If I ever need a really affordable treat for some grilled lamb or otherwise hearty fare, I always try and find a Weinert Carrascal. The vintage really doesn't matter. What a value! Great balance of oak and fruit, with subtle layers from each variety employed in the blend.... Read moreIf I ever need a really affordable treat for some grilled lamb or otherwise hearty fare, I always try and find a Weinert Carrascal. The vintage really doesn't matter. What a value! Great balance of oak and fruit, with subtle layers from each variety employed in the blend. Weinert's Argentine twist on a Bordeaux blend really has the whole package when it comes to complexity, value and even food versatility. It's not a small wonder that it also fares well in the domestic market, where confected fruit bombs don't really sell as much as in the export markets. If coming upon a recent vintage, enjoy but also put away for 2-3 years to really have a treat.    (hide)

  Wine review by enotheque

  
  

• September 2009

  Ratatouille Meets its Match A Cotes du Rhone to pair with this Provencal classic As the summer slips away I fight to hold on to the fading signs of a glorious season and embrace the last vestiges of its greatest glory -  the vegetable garden! Actually, having... Read more Ratatouille Meets its Match A Cotes du Rhone to pair with this Provencal classic As the summer slips away I fight to hold on to the fading signs of a glorious season and embrace the last vestiges of its greatest glory -  the vegetable garden! Actually, having slightly cooler weather in the evenings has let me begin to shift from light summer wines to ones with a little more oomph. This past weekend I spent a few hours working on a wonderful batch of Ratatouille and then enjoyed a fine dinner with a simply great wine match: Cotes du Rhone. Neither particularly big nor complex this style of wine really lets the complexity of the Ratatouille take center stage. What to expect: Rhone Blends Rhone Blends are generally based on Grenache though some  may be predominantly Syrah or even Mourvedre. The fact that these wines are blends gives the winemakers unusual flexibility in creating the finished wine. In the Southern Rhone Valley of France the styles can range from light, fruity, soft Cotes du Rhone to big, bold, age worthy Chateaunuef-du-pape. Search for other Cotes du Rhone on Snooth Living in Manhattan I don’t have a vegetable garden per se. Ok I don’t have a vegetable garden at all though I have killed several herb plants on my windowsill. My mother on the other hand, living as she does in Connecticut, does have a vegetable garden. It’s large and glorious, brimming with sweet ripe vegetables, and ringed by an imposing 8-foot fence. It does look somewhat like a prison yard, but the fence keeps the deer out and me rolling in fresh veggies. Sometimes rolling may seem like an understatement, it can be more like drowning, not that I mind! Picking up bags FULL of vine ripened tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, zucchini, squash, and spectacularly deeply colored peppers is as exciting for me as a trip down Fifth avenue can be for those more prone to being fashionable. Of course there is one significant difference between these vegetables and a Prada bag. The Prada bag can simply get thrown in the closet and forgotten. These bags need to be cleaned, processed and creatively dealt with, lest I face a week, or more, of Greek salad for dinner. Ratatouille seems to be the ideal solution, ok I cheated, the cucumbers are being pickled. A dish inspired no doubt by days like this in the French Country side. A dish that thrives on abundance, and is oh so forgiving of a little less here or a little more there. It’s one of my favorite dishes. Whether on it’s own, warm or cold, paired with a lamb chop or served with rice or pasta, I love it’s flexibility and the fact that it’s flavor can improve for a day or three so I never grow tired of it. I’ve included my standard recipe for Ratatouille below. You might find that you have a touch more onion or a touch less eggplant, or visa versa, than the recipe calls for. Don’t be too concerned about precise quantities here, just focus on the techniques and when you’re done make sure you take the time to enjoy your handiwork. I recently did just that. I spent some time in my mother’s kitchen last weekend salvaging vegetables from the garden on a rainy Saturday and made a huge batch of ratatouille for all of us to share. On Sunday the weather cleared up and shared it we did, served over fettuccine with a sprinkle of Parmiggiano and the aforementioned grilled lamb chops. It was spectacular and the wine pairing, a 2007 Delas Cotes du Rhone that I stocked up on for events like this, was a perfect partner! While I  recommend serving a Cote du Rhone with Ratatouille, or at least trying one, don’t fret if that’s not a wine you’re interested in. A nice Chianti or Rioja would be a great match too! Ratatouille for many Ingredients 1/3 cup olive oil 1 large yellow onion, 1/3 inch dice 2 medium bell pepper ½ inch dice (I used one green and one red) 2 small eggplant, 1 inch dice 2 tsp fresh thyme 1 tsp fresh oregano 6 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced 2 medium zucchini sliced into ¼ inch half moons 2 medium yellow squash sliced into ¼ half moons 1 quart roughly chopped tomatoes, either canned or fresh but in either case well drained Salt and pepper to taste ¼ cup loosely packed julienne of fresh basil leaves Technique 1)   Heat a large roasting pan over medium heat, one large enough to accommodate all the vegetables, and when hot add the oil. 2)   As soon as the oil begins to smoke add the onions and sauté until translucent. 3)   Once the onions are translucent add the peppers and eggplant and sauté until they have softened, (the corners of the eggplant will start to look rounded) 4)   Add the garlic, oregano and thyme to the mixture and sauté until fragrant, about 2 minutes, then add the zucchini and yellow squash, sauté for about 5 minutes until heated through then add the tomatoes 5)   Season with salt and pepper and continue to simmer over medium heat until the squash have softened and the tomatoes are heated through, about 8 minutes. 6)   Remove from heat, adjust seasonings and stir in the basil as a final touch. 7)   Your ratatouille is ready to serve or store! A meeting of rich and rustic partners 2007 Delas Frères Côtes du Rhône Saint-Esprit Priced from $9.99 This is an unusual Cotes du Rhone in that it is predominantly Syrah, with the addition of 25% Grenache. The resulting wine is filled with slightly roasted red berry fruits that stand up to the sweet tones the fresh vegetables and tomato add to the ratatouille. Accent notes of spice and herbs  meld seamlessly with the savory elements of the dish. Ratatouile for many An easy, rustic recipe great for groups My ratatouille recipe is one scaled down from my restaurant days. Back then a normal recipe produced about four times the yield as this one but the results are the same: deliciousness! I paired this ratatouille with grilled lamb chops and fettuccine but it’s great on its own as well. Other wines that work well with this dish include Chianti and Rioja, both lighter styled reds with bright acidity.    (hide)

  From the article Summer's bounty means it's time for Ratatouille!

  
  

• August 2009

  Katie, I am mostly vegetarian, purely so at least three nights a week, five nights a week if you count fish. I l believe Sangiovese from Tuscany, including Chianti Classico, are just perfect with anything tomato based and with just a lot of fish dishes. Oregon Pinot Noir and Pinot... Read moreKatie, I am mostly vegetarian, purely so at least three nights a week, five nights a week if you count fish. I l believe Sangiovese from Tuscany, including Chianti Classico, are just perfect with anything tomato based and with just a lot of fish dishes. Oregon Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir from Marlborough district in New Zealand go great with heartier fish, including salmon, but also Ahi. ( also Sav. Blanc from all over New Zealand for sweeter fish like Mahi-Mahi, Trout) know you are looking for reds, but New Zealand is a revalation over all. If you want a really big red that is perfect with vegatables and fish, well those Barolos may cost a bunch, and you might need to wait 10 years, but WOW!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Vegetarian Wine Lover Needs... by marinman49

  
  

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