Balanced acids

• October 2009

  I try to drink something new all the time, but have noticed that I am ... dry, complex, carefully balanced acids. Among white burgundy the following wines I recently tasted stand out: - Puligny Montrachet 1er cru Hameau de Blagny 2005 from Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Very... Read moreI try to drink something new all the time, but have noticed that I am ... dry, complex, carefully balanced acids. Among white burgundy the following wines I recently tasted stand out: - Puligny Montrachet 1er cru Hameau de Blagny 2005 from Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Very complex, full-bodied chardonnay with refreshing fruit tastes and very long lasting. A very classy burgundy! - Chablis 1er cru Mont de Milieu 2006 from Joseph Garnier Best chablis I ever tasted! 2006 is a very rich year for Chablis, I have been told, making it not a classic bone dry chablis, but a more complex one, while keeping the very mineral taste - Saint Aubin 1er cru Les Cortons 2007 from Domaine Roux Arguably even better than the Puligny which is a lot more expensive and is grown at only about 1km distance. This wine is ultra-complex, yet immediately inviting. It can probably be drunk until 2015 or so, but even now already it is delicious. - Meursault Les Criots 2004 from Domaine Buisson Batteault Upon first opening and smelling, this is not very inviting. The typical Meursault stench you learn to love after a few sniffs and definitely after the first sips. This is a Meursault of the classic type from a classic producer and a very good year. I will drive to Burgundy's cote d'or early next spring to try many of these wines' peers and bring back a trunk load to crowd my wine closet with ;-) Does anyone have suggestions of white burgundies I should not miss out on    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Wine mileage by torchtaker

  
  

• October 2009

  Five Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share... Read moreFive Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share a few glass here in New York. Preceding dinner was an in-store tasting at New York’s Chambers Street wines where I was able to revisit the 2007 Bianco and 2006 Barbera d’Alba that I had previously tasted in the cellars. For those of you not familiar with Oddero it’s a historic Cantina of La Morra, in Piemonte, yet produced wines from many of the villages that constitute Barolo. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, though their base Barolo is quite fruity and they even produce a Cabernet Sauvignon based wine called Fureste: The foreigner in the local vernacular. The real stars of the Oddero line-up are the single vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco. These are beautiful wines that may not be terrible expressive in their youth but blossom wonderfully with age. These earlier vintages are testament to the quality of the vineyards, coming from the family’s holdings in La Morra and Castiglione that are now bottled as Cru wines.   For more information on the wines of Oddero please see the previously published : A Killer Visit with Oddero     2007 Langhe Bianco Fruity on the nose with floral tones and pear fruit. Huge acids in the mouth give this great cut with a faceted quality to the mineral laden white fruits. This is assertively mineral on the backend and into the long finish.  89pts 2006 Barbera d’Alba Sweet and sour fruits on the nose are uncomplicated yet pure and bright. The classic Barbera acidity keeps this bright and zesty on the palate as well with a clear, slightly bitter black cherry tone and nice accents of tar, earth and violet than add nice length on the finish. 88pts 1961 Barolo A bit high toned on the nose and showing some volatility yet very aromatic with leafy tones of tobacco some sweet medicinal notes and a lovely array of assertive truffle and sweet angelica root tones. There’s a touch of teriyaki that emerges with air as well. While this retains a nice tannic bite it is fairly well resolved with a clear quality in the mouth that allows the bright sweet/sour cranberry tones to take center stage with hints of licorice and tar adding some detail around the edges. The fruit is fading a bit and doesn’t have great persistence in the mouth with a limestone mineral note taking over on the moderately long finish.  A very enjoyable,, fully mature bottle of Barolo. 92pts 1967 Barolo This starts off bit funky on the nose transitioning from the barnyard to a leathery, seaweed flecked bouquet that exhibits some classic mint and truffle tones before surrendering to a deep beef bouillon, dried onion and allspice tone. In the mouth this still has some flesh, which is well balanced by the relatively soft structure that remains. It gains more richness as it sits in the glass and the sweet edge of maderization gives an impression of sweetness to the cranberry/rhubarb fruit. There is a nice spice element that adds to the moderately long finish and a touch of burnished orange peel on the finale. The palate is fresher than the nose here but if this bottle is indicative these should be consumed sooner rather than later. 88pts 1970 Barolo The aromatics here present quite a contrast with a fresh, crisp celery note intertwined in the sweet black cherry core of fruit. There are hints of sweet tea, veal stock and fresh shitakes adding complexity but there is also a touch of rum on the nose that is a little off-putting. On the palate this is large scaled if soft with a wonderfully plush texture to the cherry and rhubarb fruit with hints of tar and subtle spice tones drawing out the moderately long finish. 90pts 1971 Barolo The cork on this bottle was pristine and the condition of the wine was exceptional. Such a deep color and such reticence on the nose that one would be forgiven thinking this was decades younger. The nose opens with a huge fresh celery note that is slowly subsumed by wonderfully sweet and fresh black currant and black cherry fruit tones.  With air the nuances of coffee, cigarette ash and burnt raisin tones add their detail to the bouquet though a touch of volatility does emerge, adding lift but also a bit of glue to the nose. In the mouth this is elegant with superb balance. The ripe, round tannins remain well concealed in a plush core of fruit. The lovely mouthfeel is complimented by the earthy floral tones and bitter cherry fruit the wine retains but the finish does reveal a bit of heat and the tannins gain a slight powdery edge with time in the glass. This is filled with fruit yet it lacks a touch a detail. It may very well continue to improve in the bottle. 91pts 1974 Barolo This really has a lovely fruity quality on the nose with a lightness and brightness that still makes this smell quite youthful. There are nice notes of dandelion, pigskin, dry earth and licorice that add nice detail to the fresh black cherry fruit. In the mouth this has such purity and real finesse. It is clean and polished with a great core of mineral tinged black cherry fruit, superb length and a sleek, refreshing feel. It is elegant; a touch simple and perhaps even delicate by Barolo standards but is pure joy to drink. Each note is so precise and clear here that you don’t need any more complexity to be completely satisfied. 94pts 1978 Barolo Reticent on the nose yet evolving rich hints of macerated flowers, sandalwood, tar and wet animal fur in the glass. This is continues to be decidedly matte feeling with plenty of fleshy fruit backed up by rich, slightly chewy tannins. The fruit is dark with earthy, leathery tones and excellent length but this still has a touch of an undeveloped feel. It’s rich and lusty if a touch rustic and may remain so. 92pts 1989 Barolo Vigna Rionda The aromatic on this are superbly layered and still very fruity with hints of iron, smoke, smoldering herbs and dusty earth embedded in sweet notes of cherry, candied strawberry and strawberry and cream fruit tones. In the mouth the tannins remain ripe yet rigid giving the mouth an excellent, precise feel. This is rich and powerful and the fruit is just beginning to yield the stage to the emerging tertiary notes but remains wonderfully youthful. 93pts 2001 Barolo Mondoca di Bussia Soprana The nose combines very fruity and intense notes of candied black raspberry fruit and cactus leaves with hints of cigarette smoke, clove and vanilla giving this a bit of a modern appearance. Big, rich and chewy in the mouth with big tannins and a dark core of confiture of black fruits. There are nuanced of espresso foam, licorice and backing spices adding accent notes on the long finish but this is still very youthful and showing lots of baby fat. 92pts 2004 Barolo Spicy on the nose, with jammy red currant fruits and a touch of carob. Lovely fresh tannins and rich fruit give this a soft, round feel with ripe wild cherry and boysenberry fruit that is fresh and intense if a bit simple and dilute on the finish. A fine Basic Barolo 88pts 2004 Barolo Villero A real step up in refinement over the base Barolo with red fruits on the nose accented with clay soil tones rose petals, sweet sassafras, spicy savory tones and a liquory black fruit top note. This offers up a really layered and complex. Set of aromatics.  Deceptively soft at first, the wine snaps together on the mid-palate with well-balanced, crisp, faceted tannins and prominent yet integrated acids framing the bitter cherry fruit. There are lovely herbal, medicinal tones that draw out the inner core of sweetness of the fruit and add resonance on the long finish. A very promising wine but one that is best left alone for a decade. 91pts    (hide)

  From the article Isabella Oddero Visits New York

  
  

• October 2009

  The Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the... Read moreThe Brilliance of Burlotto I recently had the chance to spend dinner with 4 wines from one of my favorite producers;; Commendatore G.B. Burlotto. Not only does Burlotto produce traditionally styled Barolo, but from some truly great vineyards. Their trademark wines come from the village of Verduno. Monvigliero is the pinnacle of their craft, but the more approachable Neirane, also from Verduno, serves as a great introduction to both the house style and the alluringly different wines of Verduno. In addition to these two, rather unique olive and herb scented wines, Burlotto also produces an exemplary Barolo Cannubi as well as a full range of other red varieties. This evening I was more interested in the four wines in front of me, the 1995 Monvigliero and Neirane, as well as the 1996 Cannubi and Neriane. Each bottle performed splendidly, expressing not only the vintages character, but also the terroir of each vineyard beautifully. These are wines that can be deceptive in their youth, seemingly lean and sometimes more savory than fruity but with time their inner beauty is revealed. The balance and freshness of Burlotto Barolo, in fact all of their wines, is a testament not only to the traditional ways of wine production, but also to the care and attention the family focuses on each step in the winemaking process. These may not be wines for everyone, but their natural transparency and pure expression of terroir strike a chord with me and I urge anyone with an interest in Piedmontese wines to sample a few. Don’t be too quick to judge the wines of Burlotto though. Like all the best of Piemonte, they take a bit of time to  open up and reveal themselves but once they do you can’t help but love their honesty, generosity and authenticity.   For more information on Burlotto, the wines and techniques involved please see: Step back in time with Commendatore G.B. Burlotto   1995 Burlotto Barolo Neirane This opens like a remarkable example of Cote Rotie with notes of olives, flowers, red raspberry fruit and an undertone of dried strawberry. With air notes of tar and tobacco emerge and add complexity. In the mouth this is somewhat small scaled but with great focus in a smooth, medium full bodies style with supple wild cherry fruit and light spice tones on the mid-palate that yield to notes of citron and strawberry on the finish. A very fine bottle at maturity with a balanced yet fleshy feel 91pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Neirane The bright aromatic of this wine are full of heather, licorice, smoke, olive brine and menthol notes but the fruit is still a bit reticent. In the mouth one finds superbly fine-grained tannins that are powerful but balanced by notes of white clay, leather and incipient dark raspberry fruits. This offers beautiful precision but remains a bit tight and coy on the palate. I like where this is going though and the aromatics hint that we are almost there.. 92pts 1996 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Simply wonderful aromatics that ranged from lilacs, to seared cherry, hot rocks, to roses, orange peel, earth and spice all around a core of sweet red fruit. In the mouth there is superb balance with succulent mineral notes and clear, if fairly rich and quite tannic, faceted fruit. The fruit grows in the glass revealing exceptional intensity and purity with significant upside potential. 93pts   1995 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Intense notes of incense and candlewax immediately emerge from the glass joined by dark, smoky, slightly jammy fruits with complicating notes of fish sauce, underbrush, tapenade, thyme and olive oil. In the mouth he tannins are delicate and light if abundant giving the wine a velvety texture. The rosehip and wild cherry fruit is framed by vitamin like mineral notes and a wonderful inner mouth perfume of roses and tapenade. Still youthful this is emerging from its shell and has a very promising future. 93pts.   Below are notes on wines I tasted with winemaker Fabio Alessandria  this past May. Many are just now arriving in the marketplace. 2008 Burlotto Pelaverga Aromatics are intense and deep with penetrating, minerally focus that carries over to the palate. Cranberry fruit on the palate is paired with the intense minerality giving this a downright steely quality but it does lack some of the intensity of the 2007. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Barbera d’Alba Huge, soaring aromatics are captured here with note of cold earth, pollen, wild animale notes and slightly spicy notes of black-fruited hard candy. In the mouth this is perfectly proportioned with deep, lively fruit a hint of round tannin and snappy acids. The finish is dominated by the acids but with excellent length and reverb. Super Barbera. 90pts 2007 Burlotto Freisa Lightly smoky on the nose with an exotic boysenberry coulis note that is countered by dark aromatic spice roots and a hint of leafy geranium. The mouthfeel is both transparent and mouthcoating with a hint of bitterness on the mid-palate. The tannins are pretty big but ripe enough that they already begin to melt away on the finish, which is tarry and spiced with floral tones that compliment the dark plummy red fruits. This is better on the nose at this point. 86pts 2007 Burlotto Nebbiolo Fresh and herbal on the nose with a sandy underlay and suggestions of briary wood and wildflowers adding detail. Huge acidity in the mouth is followed by a wave of fruit and perfectly ripe tannins. The midpalate is laced with minerality that adds cut and definition to the wild cherry and watermelon fruit that gains some pomegranate depth on the back end. This finishes strongly with excellent length and an almost salty, mineral finale. 90pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi Balsamic on the nose with complex aromas of church candle, bay leaf, chalk and wild berry fruits. Nervous with fine-grained tannins in the mouth that frame slightly spice sweet red fruit notes. The feel is wonderfully fresh in the mouth and strikingly transparent though one could wish for a bit more richness to the fruit.  89pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Leathery and slightly bretty on the nose with a deep gamy element that contrasts against the sweet dark fruits of the nose Notes of olive brine, mortadella and carnations emerge from the glass with air. Soft and suave in the mouth with a rich core of spiced fruit supported by great acids that keep this taut and tense. Great camphor tinged cherry fruit in the mouth conceals a bed of ripe tannins. A very well balanced 2005. 93pts 2005 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Deep and dark on the nose with fruit, heather, dried grass and hints of grilled meats, cinnamon and green anise seed adding great detail. In the mouth this is very classic Barolo with clear acids and assertive if polished tannins supporting the slightly leathery, bright amarena cherry tinged fruit. Fine balance and great length but this is really a bit tight at this point 91pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Aclivi A lovely nose of floral tones with savory hints of oregano, olive oil and sundried tomato. In the mouth his is sapid and round with soft tannins and sweet fruit on the palate with hints of fresh green herbs adding detail. The wine is still very tight but well balanced with strawberry fruits and fine, well proportioned structure.  88-90pts 2006 Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Wonderfully aromatic already with precise raspberry fruit framed by hints of campfire, saffron, baked clay and a slight underbrush tone. In the mouth thios is crystal clear with a lean yet very precise feel to the candied red raspberry flavors. The structure is very finely balanced and the tannins are perfectly ripe leading to a fine, long taut finish. An excellent wine in the making 91-94pts      (hide)

  From the article A dinner with the wines of Burlotto

  
  

• September 2009

  Felton Road reaches new heights with their latest releases ... fine grained tannins and balanced acids framing the sweet, dark cherry fruit. Herbal and forest floor notes emerge with some air as well as hints of juniper and an earthy vein that leads to the crisp... Read more Felton Road reaches new heights with their latest releases ... fine grained tannins and balanced acids framing the sweet, dark cherry fruit. Herbal and forest floor notes emerge with some air as well as hints of juniper and an earthy vein that leads to the crisp finish. Rather round in the mouth and decidedly fruity but transparent. 92pts Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3 2008 This smells rich and dense and sacrifices some of the transparency of the other Felton Road Pinots for that extra bit of richness. There are hints of cola and juniper on the nose with a touch of licorice accenting the plummy, dark berry fruits. The texture is soft and voluptuous with a nice spicy accent on the backend leading to rich finish with good sweet/sour tension and an earthy finale. 91pts Each of these wines was bottled under screwcap in an effort to help preserve the freshness of the wines. Don't allow that to sway your view of these wines. They are world class wines and few producers are able to offer a range of wines that perform at this high level. I was impressed by the wines freshness, depth and balance and hope you will be as well. To read more about Felton Road click here.    (hide)

  From the article The view from Felton Road

  
  

• September 2009

  Wine Guerrilla: Defender of Old Vine Zinfandel Wine Guerilla is a specialist operation run by Bruce Patch, who is intent on sourcing great fruit from some of Sonoma’s best vineyard sites to create wines that are true to their origins and that express the... Read more Wine Guerrilla: Defender of Old Vine Zinfandel Wine Guerilla is a specialist operation run by Bruce Patch, who is intent on sourcing great fruit from some of Sonoma’s best vineyard sites to create wines that are true to their origins and that express the intensity and richness that Zinfandel is famous for.The wines are made at the Coffaro Winery and benefit from the decades of experience that the winemaking team of David Coffaro, Bruce Patch and Matt Wilson bring to the sorting table. Wine Guerrilla’s style is to try and capture the forward fruit Zinfandel is famous for without obscuring the subtle character that each vineyard contributes. Drawing on a variety of appellations and sites throughout Sonoma County allows Wine Guerrilla to offer a significant range of styles. In keeping with the traditions of Old Vine Zinfandel production, and in an effort to accentuate some of the trademark characteristics of each site, each wine is blended with varying amounts of other grape varieties. The Forchini Russian River, for example, gains muscular spice and tannin from the 17% of Petite Sirah in the blend, while the Goat Trek, with 7% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petite Sirah ends up with a more assertive bramble note and just the right balance of tannin. While the Wine Guerilla wines are aged in oak, to help soften a few sharp edges and allow the wine to integrate, they see very little new oak. In fact the fist new barrels used were introduced with the 2008 vintage and represent a tiny percentage of the total, 8 out of 150 barrels. With so little oak influence these wines have a chance to express their terroir like few others. 2007: A Vintage of Strength and Distinction 2007 was a Zinfandel lovers vintage with brilliant wines coming from much of California, but nowhere were the wines as strong as in Sonoma County. The cooler growing season produced wines with lower alcohol and slightly higher acids than usual. A winning combination. 2007 Sonoma County Zinfandel 14.6% $18.00 Just lovely in the mouth, bright wild berry fruits are nicely red and have that slight vegetal/floral edge adding complexity and snap to the cranberry fruit on the backend that leads to a refreshing, transparent finish. This is delicious. The Dry Creek Valley is Famous for Zinfandel One of the greatest sources for old vine Zinfandel in California,  Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel is famous for its distinct black fruits and gentle spice tones. 2007 Goat Trek Vineyards Block 6 Dry Creek Valley Zinfadnel 15.5% $25.00 Almost seamless with the acid and tannins just poking through the tobacco tinged black plum and blackberry toned fruit. There’s a nice richness to the wine with it’s slightly chewy texture and a slightly creamy, mocha tinged quality on the back end that leads to a dark, muscular feeling finish. The Russian River Valley, not just great Pinot With it's extended growing season, the Russian river valley is well known for rich, plush boysenberry fruited Zinfandels. A dollop of Petite Sirah can add some spice and structure helping to support all of that fruit. 2007 Forchini Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel 15.4% $35.00 Bright and chewy in the mouth with a slinky, silky feel. Lovely balance and texture to this wine with an earthy core of boysenberry and wild blackberry fruit that leads to a spicy, earthy, slightly licorice tinged finish that features a return of the sweet/sour elements of the fruit, yet with a peppery finale. Other Wine Guerrilla wines that I recently reviewed. Forchini Vineyards 'Old Vine' Dry Creek Valley 2007 Deep, earthy, brownie, a touch malty with dusty earth and rosebush accents to the liquory, orange oil accented raspberry fruit. There’s even a small floral element at play here. Seamless, a touch soft perhaps but this really has a bit of elegance in the mouth with those same orange oil and floral nuances contributing some depth to the black raspberry fruit in the mouth. Really hold its alcohol well though the finish is a bit short. 89pts Wine Guerilla Two Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2006 Red fruit, tar and licorice on the nose, with an underlying sweet raspberry tone and nice earthy spiciness are well balanced. Soft tannins and good acidity in a relatively medium weight frame help support nice wild raspberry and wild cherry fruit. This is definitely red fruited and quite fresh in the mouth if a touch simple though the fruit and spice follow through well on the decent length finish that offers up a touch of candied apple. 87pts These are wines that are intended to be enjoyed and shared among friends. All of the wines are finished in screwtops, insuring easy access to the juice in the bottle, whether at home or away The labels are sure to catch the eye, which might be a story in and of itself. In fact they were. There were news storied written about the labels before the wines had even been released!    (hide)

  From the article Wine Guerrilla

  
  
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  September 2009

  Marques de Caceres Rioja Crianza 2005

  Snoothrank: Starting at $9^.69

  Cedar and patchouli nose, "bright" fresh fruit/grape flavors balance acidity well, finishing with cranberry and low-medium tannins. Great with grilled/salty meats, Italian/tomato-based foods also.

  Wine review by Val13

  
  

• August 2009

  Benziger – Making a difference one vine at a time. When you visit the Benziger Estate vineyards you know something special is going on. The sight of so many vineyard blocks carefully eased into each contour of this beautiful slice of Sonoma Valley, just west of the hamlet of Glen... Read moreBenziger - Making a difference one vine at a time. When you visit the Benziger Estate vineyards you know something special is going on. The sight of so many vineyard blocks carefully eased into each contour of this beautiful slice of Sonoma Valley, just west of the hamlet of Glen Ellen, is only the first indication of how much thought and care is going into the cultivation of these grapes. What sets Benziger apart? Family Owned There is one simple reason for all this care and deliberation: Benziger remains a family owned and operated winery. From the first day Mike and Mary Benziger drove up London Ranch Road and discovered the overgrown land that was to be transformed into the Benziger Estate on Sonoma Mountain, to the present day, the family has remained intimately involved with the day-to-day operations of the winery. The fact is that three generations of Benzigers have worked to make the winery what it is today. The youngest, embodied by Mike and Mary’s daughter Erinn, is as determined as any to continue to curate this land to ensure that future generations are able to enjoy the natural beauty of Sonoma Mountain and make wines that will live up to the proud reputation that the currant generations have established for the Benziger Family Winery. Biodynamic Farming Mike Benziger was one of the pioneering winemakers in California’s biodynamic movement. Biodynamics is a philosophy that treats all parts of an agricultural enterprise like elements of a single living, breathing entity. The theory posits that by fostering the health of the environment one can increase the vibrancy and quality of the production of that environment. In many ways a return to a simpler, more intuitive style of farming that abandons much of the commercial “progress” of the past century in favor of traditional methods that deliver unique, site-specific flavors, and more importantly, are sustainable. Gone, for example, are the monoculture vineyards, replaced by vines inter-planted with species that foster the development of vibrant populations of beneficial, predatory animals. These outposts are linked via pathways to allow these animals free access to all of the estate. Simple changes such as the re-introduction of these natural predators can have profound effects on the landscape that extends beyond the immediate benefits of crop diversification. To help further attract these beneficial predators, owl boxes and bat houses where placed within these oasis creating wildlife sanctuaries. The combined effect of harnessing these symbiotic animals and their ferocious appetite was the elimination of commercial pesticides, yet another tenet of Biodynamics. Adhering to the principles of Biodynamics requires the elimination of commercial fertilizers. The Benzigers use composted materials from the farm, grape canes from annual pruning, pomace from the previous years harvest, as well as manure from the farm’s goats and cattle, to replace nutrients that have pulled from the ground. This effort to “close the loop” extends to the estate’s water management system as well. Waste water from the wineries operations is captured and feed through a series of reclamation ponds were the water is filtered so that it can be used for irrigation, lowering the impact the winery makes on it’s surrounding. While much of Biodynamics is focused on maintaining the health of the estate as a distinct entity, the Benziger family is well aware of the impact they may have on the world around them and are working to limit that impact. While much of the fruit used to produce Benziger wines comes from the Estate, the family also relies on contract growers to supply fruit. In an effort to extend their impact beyond the confines of the Sonoma Mountain Estate the Benziger family has helped myriad growers move away from commercial farming techniques by incentivizing a switch to less impactful farming methods. Sustainable and Organic Benziger encourages its partner growers to move gradually from commercial farming to sustainable farming through a program they call Farming for Flavors™. The hope and goal is that each grower will eventually adopt the ever more stringent rules of organic and ultimately biodynamic farming. While the environmental impact is always at the forefront of these efforts, the simple fact is that the quality of the fruit improves as growers move away from commercial techniques. That exceptional grape quality makes the effort profitable, thus attracting and motivating growers to participate in the program. While this may extend beyond the recognized principles of Biodynamics, the effort to move people away from chemical pesticides and commercial fertilizers embodies the spirit of Biodynamics and illustrates the commitment the family has to the impact their winemaking leaves on the world around them. Winemaking plays its part The Benziger philosophy starts, not surprisingly, in the vineyards. Their faith in Biodynamics not only represents their belief that it is better for the soil, but also their belief that as a farming system it produces better, more site specific wines. They strive to capture this specificity, or terroir as it is frequently referred to, by practicing a low impact form of winemaking that begins among the vines. Grapes are harvested early in the day while still cool, and sorted before being crushed. Each block of the vineyard is fermented separately and with it’s own natural yeasts, a further allowing each site to fully express its unique traits. These individual lots are then aged and eventually blended to produce the wines that define the Benziger Estate style: Bold yet balanced, complex and elegant expressions of a people, a place and a time captured and to be shared with friends and, above all, family. Great Wines, Better pricing I was fortunate to be able to spend some time at Benziger during my recent visit to Sonoma, and got the opportunity to taste through several of their wines with winemaker Rodrigo Soto. Rodrigo is a recent addition to the Benziger team charged with further developing their Farming for Flavors™ program. His passion for wine was as obvious as his commitment to improving the program that has established Benziger as a leader in the return to intelligent, sustainable, low impact farming. If you are not familiar with Benziger this is your chance to get to know them. They should not only be admired for their efforts at improving the health of their vineyards, and the world around them, but also for the wines they produce. For a limited time they are extending fantastic discounts to Snooth members. I urge you to take advantage of this compelling offer. As a further incentive Benziger will upgrade your shipping from ground to 2nd day air when you buy a case of wines, 12 bottles solid or mixed. This deal expires Saturday, September 26, 2009 so make sure and get your order in before then and enjoy great saving and that free upgrade to 2nd day air shipping. It’s a deal that can’t be beat! 2005 Benziger Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Normally: $49.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $24.50 Distinctly ripe on the nose with a light overlay of subtle oak and spicy, licorice nuances. This is full bodied and chunky in the mouth with a jammy, blackberry core and light notes of vanilla and cedary spice adding complexity. 89pts View Details 2006 San Remo Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Normally: $49.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $34.00 With lovely red fruits on the nose edged with cola, balsamic and dried meat tones this is open knit and attractively perfumed. Very fresh in the mouth with a soft texture that is so perfectly balanced by the slightly candied cranberry fruit tones that this fairly slides down the throat. There are nice nuances of sassafras and Mexican chocolate spice tones on the finish. This is perfect for current consumption and while it may not be the biggest, baddest Pinot on the block it makes up for it by being a simply delicious and fresh bottle. 91pts View Details 2005 Benziger 'Oonapais' Estate Sonoma Mountain Red, Sonoma Mountain Normally: $50.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $30.00 Initially revealing subtle smoky scents over sweet, dark, earthy fruit lightly threaded with woodspice, green herb, and seaweed tones this gains intensity that follows through on the palate. Big and polished in the mouth with a deep, velvety texture that features well-integrated acids contributing volume in the mouth. Rich and very fruity with notes of coffee, pine, and earth framing the dark wild berry fruits that lead to a great, mouthwatering finish full of dark cherry flavors and edged with cedar and spicy peppery nuances. This is a great value. It includes some of the wine that was intended to be part of Benziger’s top of the line bottling, Tribute, but just didn’t make the final cut. Already drinking very well this has definite upside potential over the next 3-5 years. 93pts View Details 2006 Benziger 'Obsidian Point' Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain Normally: $65.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $49.00 Clear and high toned aromatics greet the nose with well integrated oak tones juxtaposed against complex green coffee bean, herb, cocoa tones with a light suggest of underbrush. This is seamless in the mouth with superb ripe tannins and plenty of acidity to add brightness to the dark, spicy fruit on the palate. The purity of the black currant fruit is admirable with a really well defined mineral note that powers through the back end and leads to a tapering, long finish. This is wonderfully balanced and really transparent if a little tight at this point. Better to leave this for 2-3 years allowing it to blossom and fulfill all it’s potential. 94pts View Details   Summer Shipping Alert Due to warm weather across the nation, Benziger will upgrade all orders of 12 bottles or more to 2-Day Air shipping for no extra charge. (Except orders within Calif.) Also while the warm weather persists, Benziger will only ship wines on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Benziger ships to the following states: AK, CA, CO, DC, FL, GA, HI, IA, ID, IL, KS, MN, MO, NC, ND, NE, NH, NM, NV, NY, OR, SC, TX, VA, VT, WA, WI, WV, WY For shipping to CT, IN, LA & MI, please call Benziger's offices at: 800-989-8890 The offer also includes free upgraded from UPS Ground to 2nd Day air on Case purchases (can be mixed). This special promotion expires September 26, 2009    (hide)

  From the article Benziger - Leading the way on Sonoma Mountain

  
  
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  August 2009

  Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Late Harvest 2006

  Snoothrank:

  We found this lightly sweet with well balanced acidity. Great for use with desserts. Great floral notes on the nose with peach, lime and mineral flavors.

  Wine review by wnelvrs

  
  

• August 2009

  The thrill of the grill Four great wines to pair with everything form Burgers to Duck! Summer is my favorite season for many reasons but chief among them is the grilling the weather affords. Not only do I get to enjoy some of my... Read more The thrill of the grill Four great wines to pair with everything form Burgers to Duck! Summer is my favorite season for many reasons but chief among them is the grilling the weather affords. Not only do I get to enjoy some of my favorite dishes but clean up is a breeze. Of course, grilling is not without its own set of challenges, getting those burgers perfectly pink throughout, keeping that chicken moist while cooking it through, and mastering the challenging task of pairing rich, smoky, spicy dishes with wines that won't make you wilt in the heat of the summer. This past weekend I spent some time with my family and we grilled up a storm! It occurred to me that it's about time I share some of my favorite grilling wines with you so here are some specific recommendations that have worked for me. I hope you enjoy them! Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah-Bonarda 2006 Starting at $11.99 With a nice burger you really want a fairly fruity, simple wine with good acidity. Something that is fun to drink and rewarding without requiring too much effort to understand. The 2006 Crios Syrah/Bonarda, round and polished in the mouth with some aggressive, extracted tannins and nice acidity, is a slightly rustic wine making it the perfect Burger wine. Plummy, earthy and slightly peppery, it's simply delicious. Domaine Parent Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006 Starting at $14.99 With grilled duck you need something with big acids to pair with the sweet fattiness of the duck. This Pinot Noir is crisp with mineral and acid tones yet has a lovely balance to the cedary red fruits that are juicy and tart recalling raspberries and cranberries, just perfect to pair with the slightly gamey grilled duck! Parducci Petite Sirah 2006 Starting at $11.99 Ok, so this might seem like a little bit of a stretch but I promise you it isn't. I like my grilled chicken spicy, in fact I like my grilled chicken to be Jerk Chicken! You really need a spicy, full wine to pair with Jerk Chicken but you also have to be careful not to over do it. I've found the balanced blackberry and peppery tones of this Parducci Petit to be just the ticket. Richly flavored but light on its feet and refreshing! Carlisle Syrah Sonoma County 2005 Starting at $28.99 With some smoky, spicy ribs you really need a big wine but one that is richly fruited and balanced, always a challenge. This Carlisle Syrah is intensely flavored and perfectly balanced with subtle chocolate, earth and vegetal nuances that will be the perfect compliment to the rich, deep flavor of your favorite rib recipe.    (hide)

  From the article The thrill of the grill

  
  
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  August 2009

  Emh Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat 2005

  Snoothrank:

  Showed such a lovely floral nose with olive, fig, soy and sour cherry. On the palate it proved to be a wine just coming into prime drinking. Dark, rich fruit yet vibrant and fresh with firm structure. This was my kind of Cab, pretty and elegant on the nose and should be great with... Read moreShowed such a lovely floral nose with olive, fig, soy and sour cherry. On the palate it proved to be a wine just coming into prime drinking. Dark, rich fruit yet vibrant and fresh with firm structure. This was my kind of Cab, pretty and elegant on the nose and should be great with food as the balanced acidity carries the rich fruit. Nice long finish    (hide)

  Wine review by Eric Guido

  
  

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