Wine Rack

• February 2010

  Two Great Food and Wine Pairings from: Wine Mondays by Frank McClelland and Christie Matheson Wine Mondays has a simple premise: Simple wine pairings with seasonal menus, but it offers much more than that. The recipes are wonderful, time-tested classics from... Read more Two Great Food and Wine Pairings from: Wine Mondays by Frank McClelland and Christie Matheson Wine Mondays has a simple premise: Simple wine pairings with seasonal menus, but it offers much more than that. The recipes are wonderful, time-tested classics from Boston's renowned L'Espalier restaurant, but given the pedigree of the chef, and author, that should come as no surprise. The lovely tips on pairing food and wines, and brief yet informative, to-the-point wine notes help to flesh out the wine pairings that are suggested with each dish. While each dish has its own pairing, each recipe is included in a four-course menu. The flow from dish to dish, and wine to wine, is engaging and intelligent, allowing for one of the wines to carry you through the entire meal, just in case you don't feel like opening four wines for dinner! Take a look at the pair of recipes we're featuring this week and then give the book a look. If you love food and wine, and who doesn't, it'll be worth it. About the Authors Frank McClelland, the James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: Northeast 2007, has been the proprietor of L’Espalier in Boston, Massachusetts, for 20 years.  In 2000, with L’Espalier firmly established as one of the country’s most highly regarded restaurants, McClelland opened a second restaurant with fellow chef and business partner Geoff Gardner. Sel de la Terre, featuring cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of Provence, France, soon joined L’Espalier as one of the nation’s top-ranked restaurants. Christie Matheson is the author of Green Chic: Saving the Earth in Style and the coauthor of Wine Mondays. She is a regular contributor to publications including The Boston Globe Magazine, Cooking Light, Boston, Yankee, Body + Soul, Yoga Journal, Continental, San Francisco, and DailyCandy.com.   Buy Wine Mondays: Simple Wine Pairings with Seasonal Menus Two Great Food and Wine Pairings From: Wine Mondays by Frank McClelland and Christie Matheson Walnut-Encrusted Spring Lamb with Bacon-Potato Rösti served with 2003 Grant Burge, “Miamba,” Shiraz, Australia Click here to download a printable PDF file of this recipe.    Full, rich, and spicy, this is a classic Australian red wine. Shiraz and lamb is an excellent combination. You could try a Shiraz from South Africa or a California Syrah, too. This has been a L’Espalier staple for decades. The nuttiness and sweetness of the crust enhances the richness and sweetness of the spring lamb. The rösti lends crispness to this dish and creates a platform to absorb the sweet juices from the lamb. To add a green element to this course, serve it with spring spinach.   3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more if needed 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 2 racks of lamb (about 18 ounces total) 3 tablespoons butter 1 large onion, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 teaspoons salt, plus more to season lamb 4 garlic cloves, chopped 4 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary 2 teaspoons minced fresh mint 1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted 1/4 cup breadcrumbs  1 teaspoon coarse sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to season lamb1 tablespoon sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons vegetable oil    1. Make a marinade by combining the balsamic vinegar, mustard, minced garlic, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, the thyme, and the dried rosemary. Place the lamb in a bowl and smear the marinade all over the meat. Refrigerate, covered, overnight.  2. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the butter to the pan. When the butter is sizzling, add the onions, brown sugar, and salt and stir. Cover and let cook for 10 minutes.  3. Uncover and add the chopped garlic, fresh rosemary, mint, walnuts, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and sherry vinegar. Stir and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and puree in a food processor until smooth. If the mixture crumbles, add more olive oil. (You want to be able to apply the mixture to the lamb with an offset spatula.) 4. Preheat the oven to 400ºF. 5. Remove the lamb from the marinade. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Wipe out the sauté pan and set it over medium-high heat. Add the vegetable oil to the pan. When the oil is hot, add the lamb to the pan and brown it deeply on all sides, about 4 minutes total.  6. Place the lamb on a roasting rack in a roasting pan. Use an offset spatula to cover the lamb completely with the walnut-herb mixture. Roast for about 12 minutes for medium- rare (about 135ºF on an instant-read thermometer). Remove from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes before slicing and serving. Serve with Bacon-Potato Rösti (recipe follows).   Toasting Nuts Toasting nuts brings out their best flavor. To toast them lightly, spread them evenly on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes in a 400ºF oven. For more intense toasted flavor, bake for 8 to 10 minutes.   Bacon-Potato Rösti 3 Idaho potatoes (about 2 1/2 pounds), peeled  2 slices bacon, finely diced 1 tablespoon salt 1 garlic clove, minced 3 tablespoons minced onion 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter 1. Grate the potatoes, using the large holes of a grater, into a large bowl. Let stand for 4 minutes. Lift the potatoes and squeeze out and discard the excess liquid. Return the potatoes to the bowl and stir in the bacon. Mix in the salt, garlic, onion, and pepper.  2. Preheat the oven to 400ºF. 3. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter to the skillet and, when it starts to pop, evenly distribute the potato-bacon mixture in the skillet. Let cook until the potato cake becomes golden brown and begins to detach from the pan. 4. Distribute the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, cut into bits, on top of the potato cake. Flip the cake and place the skillet in the oven. Roast for 15 minutes. Remove the rösti from the skillet and slide it onto a cutting board. Cut it into 6 wedges and serve with the lamb. Please visit the next page for the second recipe. [PAGEBREAK]   Whole Roasted Tarragon Chicken with Roasted Chantenay Carrots served with 2001 Domaine Carré-Courbin, “Les Lurets,” Volnay Editor's Note: At this time it does not appear that the wines of Domaine Carré-Courbin are available. I am including a link to the Volnay's of Domaine Drouhin, as an alternative which will work well with this dish.  Click here to download a printable PDF file of this recipe. This wne is a Pinot Noir, and L’Espalier wine director Erik Johnson’s favorite thing to do is pair a simple roast chicken with a Pinot from Burgundy. This particular wine perfectly complements the tarragon chicken, because there are hints of tarragon flavor to the wine as well. Another earthy, soft Pinot from Burgundy would taste wonderful with this dish, too. Tarragon and chicken is a match made in heaven—a classic, tried-and-true, French-inspired combination. Tarragon has aromatic, lemony nuances that bring out the flavor in the chicken. I always like including a straightforward roast chicken on Burgundy-inspired menus, because Burgundy is known for producing the best chickens in the world. Chantenay carrots are the sweetest on the market. They are a French variety that are left in the ground until the ground freezes, which boosts their sugar content. You can usually find them in late fall and winter, but regular carrots work just fine, too.   One 3 1/2-pound roaster chicken, preferably organic free-range 2 lemons 1 tablespoon dried tarragon 6 garlic cloves, 4 crushed and 2 minced 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 shallot, sliced 2 teaspoons paprika 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 tablespoon canola oil 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon ground coriander   1. Remove the giblets and neck from the chicken. Wash the giblets, neck, and chicken thoroughly in your sink and pat dry; set aside, covered, in a cool place. 2. Juice the lemons and reserve the juice. Chop up the lemon rind and place it in a small bowl. Add the dried tarragon, the 4 crushed garlic cloves, and the salt. 3. Stuff the cavity of the chicken with the lemon rind mixture and tie the legs of the chicken together with butcher’s twine. Combine the lemon juice, the 2 minced garlic cloves, the shallot, paprika, pepper, brown sugar, canola oil, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and coriander in a bowl large enough to accommodate the chicken and whisk until well combined. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the marinade. 4. Immerse the chicken headfirst in the marinade; marinate the livers in a separate small bowl in the 1 tablespoon of reserved marinade. (Save these to use in the Chicken Liver Croutons, page 00, if you like.) Cover the chicken and marinate in the refrigerator for 4 to 8 hours or overnight. 5. Preheat the oven to 425ºF. 6. Place the chicken, breast side up, and the neck in a casserole dish. Pour the marinade over the top of the chicken; bake for 20 minutes. Turn the chicken so the breast side is down, add 1 cup water to the baking dish, and bake for an additional 20 minutes. Flip the chicken again, reduce the oven temperature to 350ºF, and bake for another 20 minutes. 7. Remove the pan from the oven and lift the chicken out of the pan, letting the juices drain into the pan. Place the chicken on a cutting board, cover with aluminum foil, and let rest for 15 minutes. 8. Strain the juices from the pan through a fine-mesh sieve into a large saucepan. With a small ladle or spoon, skim any fat off the surface of the liquid and discard. Heat the liquid over medium heat and reduce by half, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 9. Carve the chicken breast and legs and place on a serving platter, spooning the sauce over the top.   Going All Out When I make a chicken I always do something with the chicken livers because they are loaded with flavor. These croutons add nice flavor and crunch to the chicken, and they also make delicious hors d’oeuvres on their own.   Chicken Liver Croutons 1 tablespoon canola oil Marinated livers from 1 chicken (reserved from Whole Roasted Tarragon Chicken) 1 shallot, thinly sliced 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 tablespoon butter 3 slices fig or sourdough bread, cut into quarters and toasted   1. Preheat a small saucepan over high heat for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-high and add the canola oil. Add the livers and shallot to the pan. Cook the livers for 1 1/2 minutes on each side. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the salt, pepper, tarragon, and nutmeg and toss. 2. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes. Pour the contents of the pan into a food processor and puree until smooth. Add the butter and puree to emulsify. Scrape the mixture out of the food processor and taste for seasoning. Spread the mixture onto the toast and serve. Roasted Chantenay Carrots   6 large Chantenay or regular carrots, peeled and cut into 4-inch sticks 1 teaspoon dried tarragon 1 teaspoon salt Zest of 1 orange 2 tablespoons peanut oil   1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. 2. Place the carrots in a medium-size bowl and toss with the tarragon, salt, and orange zest. Heat a medium-size cast-iron skillet over high heat for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the oil. Heat for 30 seconds, then add the carrots. 3. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Place the skillet in the oven and roast for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the carrots are golden brown.     Two recipes from L'Espalier to warm your winter nights Walnut-Encrusted Spring Lamb with Bacon-Potato Rösti by Frank McClelland and Christie Matheson This has been a L’Espalier staple for decades. The nuttiness and sweetness of the crust enhances the richness and sweetness of the spring lamb. The rösti lends crispness to this dish and creates a platform to absorb the sweet juices from the lamb. To add a green element to this course, serve it with spring spinach. Whole Roasted Tarragon Chicken with Roasted Chantenay Carrots by Frank McClelland and Christie Matheson Tarragon and chicken is a match made in heaven—a classic, tried-and-true, French-inspired combination. Tarragon has aromatic, lemony nuances that bring out the flavor in the chicken. I always like including a straightforward roast chicken on Burgundy-inspired menus, because Burgundy is known for producing the best chickens in the world.    (hide)

  From the article Wine Mondays

  
  

• February 2010

  Looks like I'm going to have to add Chilean carmenere blends to the list of good-with-lamb wines! From my post in another thread: ============ Reply by dmcker, 0 minutes ago. Last night I had a couple of Chilean reds that were just plain good wines, I thought, and a very... Read moreLooks like I'm going to have to add Chilean carmenere blends to the list of good-with-lamb wines! From my post in another thread: ============ Reply by dmcker, 0 minutes ago. Last night I had a couple of Chilean reds that were just plain good wines, I thought, and a very interesting expression of a winemaker's vision. They were at an Italian restaurant produced by a half-Venezuelan, half-Sicilian friend (with American citizenship, living in Japan, go figure...). They weren't on the winelist but were brought over by an acquaintance of mine (and good friend of my friend), who is in the wine industry in Sudamerica (famous rum family from Venezuela). I had heard of one of the wines before but not the other, and had not had the pleasure of tasting either before last night, so it was all a most pleasant surprise. They both went extremely well with my bresaola, rucola and parmesan appetizer, followed by an excellent rack of lamb, then a few nibbles of cheese. Including another friend at the table there were four of us, and we liked the wine so much that we killed two bottles of each. The wines were both young, the first from the 2007 vintage and the second from 2006, and both made by the same winemaker (Alvaro Espinoza) but under different labels. Would love to get a case each and lay them down for awhile, though that won't be easy here in Tokyo, and maybe most anywhere, since I believe we're talking artisanal production volumes of well less than 1,000 cases (like maybe half that, at least in the second wine's case, though I'm not sure for the first). The first was a Chono San Lorenzo Maipo Valley, the second an Antiyal, also from Maipo. The Chono San Lorenzo was 50% carmenère, 20% syrah, 20% cabernet sauvignon and 10% cabernet franc. The Antiyal was 50% carmenère, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 10% syrah. The styles were distinctively similar. Robust, muscular heft, yet with silky finesse and excellent tannin/acid balance. For the Chono San Lorenzo, crushed fruit, licorice, pencil lead and complex earthiness on the nose. Velvet texture, dark fruit (black cherries and plums particularly) and tobacco on the palate-- all-in-all a very long, sensual experience in the mouth. Overall a strong feel of a very particular Maipo terroir. Drinkable now but I definitely want to try it several years down the line. The Antiyal had the benefit of another year of age. Again crushed fruit, smoke, earth and some floweriness on the nose. This time more red fruit (raspberries, red, not black, cherries and currants) on the palate. Again that signature sexiness in the mouth and particular terroir. The finish went on for a long time, getting sweeter along the way. Also quite drinkable now but will benefit from laying down, I strongly feel. These are definitely not the mass-produced generic wines produced by the boatload from plantation-sized holdings being lambasted above. More like from a family farm, but one where the family has all sorts of esoteric, enlightened knowhow. My understanding is the Chono vines are older, well up in the Andean foothills, off the valley floor, in a horse-plowed vineyard amongst almond trees. I think you can find it in the States for a little north of $20, at which price it is a definite steal, for what by all indications is a very age-worthy wine. The Anityal is closer to $50, since it's been coddled by Wine Spectator ratings for awhile (and judging by my tasting last night it's likely the Chono will continue its rise since it used to be around $10, is now $20, and in the future...?). I believe both the Chono and the Antiyal are fully biodynamic, but ain't sure. Well worth plenty of investigations, as long as it includes liquid refreshment from the fruits of those vineyards while doing so. ;-) Because of the limited production volume, certainly not the solution for all of us. But there definitely is 'hope' for Chilean wine, especially if more people expend efforts to make wine like this...    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Lamb by dmcker

  
  

• February 2010

  Last night I had a couple of Chilean reds that were just plain good wines, I thought, and a very interesting expression of a winemaker's vision. They were at an Italian restaurant produced by a half-Venezuelan, half-Sicilian friend (with American citizenship, living in Japan, go... Read moreLast night I had a couple of Chilean reds that were just plain good wines, I thought, and a very interesting expression of a winemaker's vision. They were at an Italian restaurant produced by a half-Venezuelan, half-Sicilian friend (with American citizenship, living in Japan, go figure...). They weren't on the winelist but were brought over by an acquaintance of mine (and good friend of my friend), who is in the wine industry in Sudamerica (famous rum family from Venezuela). I had heard of one of the wines before but not the other, and had not had the pleasure of tasting either before last night, so it was all a most pleasant surprise. They both went extremely well with my bresaola, rucola and parmesan appetizer, followed by an excellent rack of lamb, then a few nibbles of cheese. Including another friend at the table there were four of us, and we liked the wine so much that we killed two bottles of each. The wines were both young, the first from the 2007 vintage and the second from 2006, and both made by the same winemaker (Alvaro Espinoza) but under different labels. Would love to get a case each and lay them down for awhile, though that won't be easy here in Tokyo, and maybe most anywhere, since I believe we're talking artisanal production volumes of well less than 1,000 cases (like maybe half that, at least in the second wine's case, though I'm not sure for the first). The first was a Chono San Lorenzo Maipo Valley, the second an Antiyal, also from Maipo. The Chono San Lorenzo was 50% carmenère, 20% syrah, 20% cabernet sauvignon and 10% cabernet franc. The Antiyal was 50% carmenère, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 10% syrah. The styles were distinctively similar. Robust, muscular heft, yet with silky finesse and excellent tannin/acid balance. For the Chono San Lorenzo, crushed fruit, licorice, pencil lead and complex earthiness on the nose. Velvet texture, dark fruit (black cherries and plums particularly) and tobacco on the palate-- all-in-all a very long, sensual experience in the mouth. Overall a strong feel of a very particular Maipo terroir. Drinkable now but I definitely want to try it several years down the line. The Antiyal had the benefit of another year of age. Again crushed fruit, smoke, earth and some floweriness on the nose. This time more red fruit (raspberries, red, not black, cherries and currants) on the palate. Again that signature sexiness in the mouth and particular terroir. The finish went on for a long time, getting sweeter along the way. Also quite drinkable now but will benefit from laying down, I strongly feel. These are definitely not the mass-produced generic wines produced by the boatload from plantation-sized holdings being lambasted above. More like from a family farm, but one where the family has all sorts of esoteric, enlightened knowhow. My understanding is the Chono vines are older, well up in the Andean foothills, off the valley floor, in a horse-plowed vineyard amongst almond trees. I think you can find it in the States for a little north of $20, at which price it is a definite steal, for what by all indications is a very age-worthy wine. The Anityal is closer to $50, since it's been coddled by Wine Spectator ratings for awhile (and judging by my tasting last night it's likely the Chono will continue its rise since it used to be around $10, is now $20, and in the future...?). I believe both the Chono and the Antiyal are fully biodynamic, but ain't sure. Well worth plenty of investigations, as long as it includes liquid refreshment from the fruits of those vineyards while doing so. ;-) Because of the limited production volume, certainly not the solution for all of us. But there definitely is 'hope' for Chilean wine, especially if more people expend efforts to make wine like this...    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What do you think about... by dmcker

  
  

• February 2010

  That's right, we'll be opening bottle a day late. Open that bottle night is Saturday February 27th. We'll be busy opening bottles on Saturday but wanted to invite you to join me in opening even more bottles on the following Sunday. I'm not sure what treasures I'll be bringin from my... Read moreThat's right, we'll be opening bottle a day late. Open that bottle night is Saturday February 27th. We'll be busy opening bottles on Saturday but wanted to invite you to join me in opening even more bottles on the following Sunday. I'm not sure what treasures I'll be bringin from my cellar but I'm thinking of a vertical tasting of Charbono from 1972-1991, maybe some nice old Barolos, a magnum or two of who knows what, and, well, a mess of fun and fine wine. I hope you can join us. Tickets are limited and can be purchased here: http://snoothotbn2010.eventbrite.com/ Hope to see you all there! And here are the menu choices for the evening! APPETIZERS PAN ROASTED QUAIL swiss chard, roasted sweet potatoes, balsamic demi sauce CHORIZO and MUSHROOM TART roasted leeks, tomatoes, goat cheese, spaghetti squash, black truffle sauce ENDIVE SALAD stilton, bacon, apples, red pearl onions, port wine and walnut dressing LOBSTER and CRAB CAKES seaweed and vegetable salad, thai curry coconut sauce ENTREES SLOW ROASTED ORGANIC CHICKEN BREAST cauliflower mash, morel mushrooms, and garlic herb au jus WILD NORTH ATLANTIC ARCTIC CHAR oven dried tomatoes, basil risotto LONG ISLAND DUCK BREAST spiced couscous, dried fruit timbale, huckleberry au jus HERB CRUSTED RACK OF LAMB grilled asparagus, potato and leek galette, and red wine rosemary au jus DESSERTS CRÈME FRAICHE CHEESECAKE served with roasted figs and pecan toffee sauce WARM APPLE & CRANBERRY PIE fior di latte ice cream CHOCOLATE MOUSSE CAKE bitter chocolate ice cream, chocolate and caramel sauces, chopped    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Tickets are now on Sale for... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• February 2010

  Not your Typical Primavera Fire Roasted Tomato & Squash Primavera, Red Quinoa Sometimes you have to think outside the box or risk being nothing more than a cook.  I found myself in this position when working for a customer that was on a very special... Read more Not your Typical Primavera Fire Roasted Tomato & Squash Primavera, Red Quinoa Sometimes you have to think outside the box or risk being nothing more than a cook.  I found myself in this position when working for a customer that was on a very special diet.  Little did I know that one of my creations would become a repeat favorite that is often requested and constantly praised: Fire Roasted Tomatoes and Squash Primavera over red quinoa (pronounced: KEEN-Wah).  What started out as a recipe that may have resembled Pasta alla Norma became something much more because I needed to make the sauce into something so engaging, flavorful and significant that it would please the senses, the palate and the appetite, all on its own.  This dish is vegetarian and extremely healthy but if you let that deter you, or convince yourself that “healthy” may equal “boring”, then you will be missing out   Castello di Monsanto The Castello di Monsanto produces one of Chianti’s iconic wines: Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio. From the estate’s inception, in the early 1960’s, the goal of the Bianchi family was to produce the finest wines possible. Whether that required the clearing and planting of the ideally situated parcel of land that was to become the Il Poggio vineyard, or the forward thinking move (anticipating the changes of laws) of eliminating the white grapes that were a required... Read More about Castello di Monsanto When it came time to pick the wine, Sangiovese was the first thing that came to mind.  I decided to go with Chianti Classico from one of my favorite producers, Castello di Monsanto.  I’ve always found Chianti to be a great compliment to tomato sauces with a spicy kick. While I often pair more than one wine with a meal, to decide what might pair better, I opted to use this opportunity to put two wines from the same producer, yet different vintages, next to each other.  My hope was to show my guests the benefits of aged Sangiovese and, in this case, it showed in spades.  The best thing about Castello di Monsanto is that they keep a stock of their single vineyard bottle, Il Poggio, from the best vintages, to be re-released years or even decades down the road.  This gives the consumer a chance to purchase an aged bottle, with perfect provenance, at only a moderate increase from the original release price. Fire Roasted Tomato and Squash Primavera over red quinoa Fire Roasted Tomato and Squash Primavera is a sauce loaded with vegetables in a sweet and spicy tomato reduction.  The vegetables remain slightly firm, and each of them holds their own characteristic flavors.  As you work your way through this dish you first find the sauce at center stage, which is smooth yet bursting with tomato flavor.  It is slightly sweet but with a spicy kick that is only felt at the tail end.  The ricotta cheese adds a creamy contrast and helps to cleanse your palate and prepare you for the next bite.  Now comes the squash with an intensity that only roasting can obtain.  Yellow squash, zucchini and eggplant are all identifiable through their colors but also through their unique flavors.  When you add a little quinoa to your fork, you realize how it all comes together, with a slightly crisp mouth feel and nutty flavor.  It takes the sauce to the next level and creates a medley of flavors and sensations on your palate that causes eyes to roll as the satisfying sound of “umm” echoes around the table.   2006 Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva.  This bottle is a great example of how time, exposed to air, can affect a wine. When first opened it showed sour berries, leather, fall leaves and a hint of confectioners sugar on the nose. However, after two hours, you find fig and ripe berries with cedar and undergrowth.  Black cherries and wild berries fill your palate.  Then comes rosemary and a hint of cedar, which adds further complexities to your next bite. The medium-long finish is juicy and fresh as it flaunts its brisk acidity, cleanses your palate, and keeps you coming back to the glass for more.   1999 Castello Di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio This is a perfect example of a Sangiovese entering maturity. The color was red heading toward burnt orange.  On the nose is a bouquet of dried flowers and potpourri, with undergrowth and tar, but all the while showing plum fruit and caramel. The combination of smells between the fire roasted squash and this glass of wine was intoxicating.  Take a sip and you find raspberry fruit, flower petals, rosemary and a hint of aged oak.  The palate was silky smooth, but with a perfect balance of acidity that works to keep your mouth watering and craving another bite from your plate.  After a sip of wine the sauce picks up the aged oak and woodsy rosemary nuances, creating a wonderful mix of flavors.  The finish is full of sour berry, but not dry; instead it's fresh and smooth. The pairing of both wines was perfect, but what was even more interesting was how you could find the youthful nuances of one wine making a more mature appearance in the other.  In the end, plates were picked clean and wine continued to flow freely.  Some tasters preferred the 2006 Chianti Classico against the fire-roasted vegetables for its fresh ripe fruit and young vibrancy.  Other guests were swooned by the '99 Il Poggio, due to its softer texture and multidimensional layers of taste and aromas against the sweet, woodsy flavors of the plate before them.  It was a fun, educational and highly satisfying experience for all.     Fire Roasted Tomato and Squash Primavera over red quinoa Click here to download a printable PDF file of this recipe.  (Serves 4) This recipe takes a good amount of prep time but I think you’ll find the actual cooking process to be quite easy.  Since the presentation depends on the vegetables, make sure to take your time and make them as uniform as possible.  You can make the sauce hours, or even a day, ahead of time and then warm at the time of service.  I advise using a large roasting pan for the fire roasting and to sweat the mire poix.  You will also need a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil and a medium size saucepot. (Optional) A note on the preparation of the yellow squash, zucchini and eggplant: Wash them thoroughly because you will be using the skins.  Do not peel them.  You should aim to have a piece of skin on each piece of squash.  Slice the squash into thirds (length-wise) with the centerpiece about two times the size of the other two.  Reserve the two side slices and turn the center slice on its side.  Now slice again into thirds.  The result should be that the center of the squash (containing the majority of the seeds) would be left over without any skin.  You can leave the center of the squash out of the recipe.  The slices you made with the skin intact are what you want to use for your small dice.  This is not necessary, but it adds a significant amount of visual appeal to the final product. (Optional) A note on the San Marzano tomatoes:  It’s beneficial to remove the seeds because they add bitterness to the final product, but it is not absolutely necessary to do so.  This is not as difficult as it may sound, nor do you need to remove every seed.  Set up two bowls with a wire mesh strainer in each and one bowl without.  Open a can and pour the contents into the first strainer.  Take a tomato in hand and, with your thumb, open the side of the tomato over the second bowl and strainer.  Juice and the seeds will flow out of the tomato.  Place that tomato into the third bowl and continue to do this until you have deseeded all tomatoes.  Once this is complete, collect all of the juice into one bowl and, with a spoon (or your hand), massage the remaining contents from each strainer into the juice until the only thing left are seeds.  In the end you should have one bowl of dry, deseeded tomatoes and one bowl of strained tomato juice. 2 28oz cans of San Marzano tomatoes (drained with seeds removed and juice reserved) 2 cups sweet onion (small dice) 1 cup carrot (small dice) 6 cloves garlic (fine dice) 1 cup yellow squash (small dice) 1 cup zucchini (small dice) 1 cup Italian eggplant (small dice) 2 Tbls. capers (rinsed and drained) ¼ cup sherry vinegar ¼ cup sugar ¼ cup white wine ¾ tsp. red pepper flakes 1 tsp. oregano (dry) 1 tsp. basil (dry) 1 Tbls. butter 1 ½ cups red quinoa 1 ½ cup vegetable stock 1 ½ cup water 1 Tbls. butter 1 cup ricotta cheese salt & pepper (for seasoning) olive oil (as needed) 1 bunch fresh basil   The Sauce Pour the strained tomato juice into a medium pot and place over a medium flame.  Stir in the sherry vinegar, sugar, red pepper flakes, oregano and basil.  This mixture will cook like this through most of your cooking process, but it is important to stir from time to time.  The goal is to reduce the liquid by half. Turn your broiler on low and place an oven rack in the center of the oven.  Put the yellow squash, zucchini and eggplant into a bowl and pour in enough olive oil to coat the vegetables.  Toss to coat and season with salt.  Check to make sure you have added enough oil; each piece should be lightly coated.  Add more if necessary and pour the yellow squash, zucchini and eggplant onto a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil.  Spread the vegetables out and place in the oven on the center rack.    Place a large roasting pan over low heat (it will likely span across two burners) and pour enough olive oil to just barely cover the bottom of the pan.  Add the carrots, onions and garlic, and stir to coat with oil.  Season them well with salt and allow them to sweat over low heat for about five minutes. Check on the squash in the oven and stir if it appears to be browning. Using your hands, break up the tomatoes into small chunks and place them into the roasting pan with the onions, carrots and garlic.  If there is any juice at the bottom of the bowl, pour it into the saucepot, which should still be reducing.  Also add the capers to the roasting pan and stir to combine.  Continue to cook for about three minutes. Now pull the squash from the oven.  If it doesn’t look done, it’s okay, because it will continue to roast with the rest of the mixture.   Pour the contents into the roasting pan and stir again to combine.    Place the roasting pan into the oven under the boiler on low.  Roast, under the broiler, for six minutes and then stir.  Repeat this process three more times (24 minutes total) but make sure that nothing begins to burn.  While these items are roasting, check to make sure that the sauce is not reducing too much.  Your goal is to reduce by half.   Now pull the vegetables from the oven and place the roasting pan back onto the stovetop over a medium flame.  Pour in the white wine and stir.  Continue cooking for another five minutes to allow the wine to cook off. The sauce should be properly reduced at this time.  Pour the contents of the saucepot into the roasting pan and stir to combine. Remove from heat, add the butter and stir until combined.  Lastly, season with salt and pepper to taste.  It can be served now or cooled and set aside for later.   Red Quinoa Cooking time can vary depending on the brand you buy, but the ratio of quinoa to liquid should be about 1 to 2. Place vegetable stock and water in a medium saucepan, over high heat, and bring to a boil. Add red quinoa and stir.  Reduce heat to low medium and cover.  Cook for about 15 - 20 minutes but make sure to check packaging for cooking times.   While the quinoa cooks, take the basil and remove the ‘blooms’ for garnish.  Take a small bunch of leaves and chop fine. When the quinoa is done, add the butter and stir to combine.  Season the quinoa with salt and pepper.  Lastly, add the chopped basil and stir.  The quinoa should have a fresh, vegetal and nutty flavor.   The Plate      Take a two-inch, round dough cutter and place in the center of the plate.  Spoon the quinoa evenly around the dough cutter.  Ladle the primavera sauce into the center of the dough cutter.  Top with a dollop of ricotta cheese and a basil bloom.  Pull the dough cutter straight up and off of the plate.  Clean the rim of your plates with a warm, moist towel and serve. 2006 Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva Priced from $18.99 This bottle is a great example of how time, exposed to air, can affect a wine. When first opened it showed sour berries, leather, fall leaves and a hint of confectioners sugar on the nose. However, after two hours, you find fig and ripe berries with cedar and undergrowth. 1999 Castello Di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio This is a perfect example of a Sangiovese entering maturity. The color was red heading toward burnt orange.  On the nose is a bouquet of dried flowers and potpourri, with undergrowth and tar, but all the while showing plum fruit and caramel.    (hide)

  From the article Eric Guido's Quinoa Primavera

  
  

• February 2010

  White Cotes du Rhone blends are a great suggestion for white wine pairing. As for reds, I'd serve a red CDuP or Gigondas as I normally serve with Provencal style rack of lamb. I'm thinking more of cutting through the herbs and spice than the fact that you're serving pork chops... Read moreWhite Cotes du Rhone blends are a great suggestion for white wine pairing. As for reds, I'd serve a red CDuP or Gigondas as I normally serve with Provencal style rack of lamb. I'm thinking more of cutting through the herbs and spice than the fact that you're serving pork chops instead of lamb chops. But that's just me.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What to pair with Herbes de... by D9sus4

  
  

• February 2010

  Cooking with Ruth Van Waerebeek Inspired Wine Pairings from Concha y Toro As many of you know, late last year Snooth was fortunate enough to be able to organize a wine pairing evening with Concha y Toro’s winemaker Marcelo Papa. While we enjoyed... Read more Cooking with Ruth Van Waerebeek Inspired Wine Pairings from Concha y Toro As many of you know, late last year Snooth was fortunate enough to be able to organize a wine pairing evening with Concha y Toro’s winemaker Marcelo Papa. While we enjoyed Marcelo’s wines, and his wonderful stories that conveyed the history and character that makes each wine unique, the point of the tasting was to explore the entire Concha y Toro line-up.  Even with just a few snacks, and a few minutes spent with each wine, it was obvious that the wines Marcelo crafts are ideally suited for the dining table, and we wanted to explore pairing them. So, we got this idea, why not see what Ruth Van Waerebeek, Concha y Toro’s Chef, serves with these wines, wines that she knows as well as anyone. The results are an exciting series of videos, and recipes, that pair Concha y Toro wines with easy to prepare, delicious dishes that are sure to make any event special! Take a look at our first menu. Mixed seafood and mushroom Ceviche with orange and avocado  (Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc) Grilled lamb skewers,merquén marinade, Chilean-style mint salsa (Casillero del Diablo Reserva Privada) Roquefort “Cheesecake” with toasted Walnuts on Rye Bread, mixed Greens with walnut oil Vinaigrette (Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon) What to expect; Concha y Toro In 1883 Don Melchor de Concha y Toro and his wife, Dona Emiliana Subercaseaux, brought to Chile the noblest grapevines of the Bordeaux region of France, and established one of chile's most important and revered wineries: Vina Concha y Toro. Working together with U.S. importer, Banfi Vintners since 1988, Concha y Toro has joined the ranks of the world's premier producers. Discover Concha y Toro An Introduction from Chef Ruth   Mixed seafood and mushroom Ceviche-style salad with orange and avocado   Click here to download a printable pdf file of this recipe. (4 servings)Ingredients: 12 large shrimp, shelled and deveined 1/2 pound cleaned medium squid, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch rings 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice 3 tablespoons canola oil ½ red chili pepper, seeded, finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 2 tablespoon garlic, minced 1/2 red onion, finely sliced in half moons ½ pound small white mushrooms, thinly sliced Sea salt and freshly ground pepper 2 navel oranges, in sections 2 firm, ripe Hass avocados, peeled and cut into wedges Method: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil, add the shrimp and cook 2 minutes; add the squid and cook 1 minute longer. Drain and refresh. In a large bowl, mix the citrus juices, oil, chili pepper, cilantro, parsley and garlic. Add the onion and mushrooms, combine and season with salt and pepper. Let marinate 20 minutes. Add the squid and shrimp and refrigerate another 10 minutes. Arrange the orange sections and avocado wedges around the edge of a platter. Using a slotted spoon spread the ceviche in the center. Spoon some of the marinade over the oranges and avocado and serve at once.   [PAGEBREAK] Grilled lamb skewers in merquén marinade, an unique smoked chili pepper mix from the indigenous Mapuche Indians, with a Chilean-style mint salsa   Click here to download a printable pdf file of this recipe. From the Northern Andean foothills till the Patagonian grasslands, tender lamb is the meat of choice for the  “ Parrilla”  or Chilean grill, especially when spiced up with the pungent and exquisite merquén mixture, and served with a refreshing green mint salsa. The ideal match for a great Chilean cabernet! If merquén is not available you can make your own spice mix based on: mixture of ½  teaspoon dried oregano, 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 1 teaspoon smoked paprika powder ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon ground coriander seeds (Makes 4 servings) Ingredients for the merquén marinade: ½ cup olive oil 3 tablespoons plain yogurt, preferably whole-milk 2 tablespoons onion, grated 2 garlic cloves, finely minced 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped 1 tablespoon merquén or other smoked chili pepper mix For the skewers: 1 ½ pounds leg of lamb, deboned and degreased, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes 36 fresh bay leaves 4 small firm peaches, quartered 8 12-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes For the Chilean-style mint salsa: ¼ cup scallions, chopped ½ cup fresh mint leaves ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves ½ jalapeño pepper, seeds removed 1 clove garlic 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 1/3 cup canola oil ¼ cup cold water 1 tablespoon sugar Salt to taste  Method: Prepare the marinade; combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a glass oven platter. Add the lamb, mix to combine and let sit for up to 2 hours. Prepare the Chilean mint salsa: Put all the ingredients in a blender and process until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings, this salsa should be brimming with flavour. Refrigerate until ready to serve or up to 3-4 days. Prepare charcoal, gas or electric grill to medium hot. Thread 3 pieces of lamb, 2 quarters of peach and 3 bay leaves loosely on each skewer. Lightly oil grill rack. Grill skewers, turning occasionally, until just cooked through, 10-15 minutes. Serve with mint salsa.   [PAGEBREAK] Roquefort “Cheesecake” with toasted Walnuts on Rye Bread, mixed Greens with walnut oil Vinaigrette   Click here to download a printable pdf file of this recipe. Dish needs to be prepared one day before serving. Ingredients for 10 servings: 10-ounces Dark Dutch rye bread (comes in packages, already thinly sliced) 4 sheets of gelatine 3/4 cup heavy cream 1 pound of Philadelphia cream cheese, softened at room temperature ½ pound Roquefort cheese, at room temperature 2 ounces walnuts, lightly toasted ¼ teaspoon pink peppercorns, crushed 1/2 cup celery, in very small dice 2 tablespoons chives, finely minced 1 tablespoon fresh dill, finely minced Salt to taste 8 walnut halves for serving Olive oil for serving For the salad: Rúcula and baby leave mix For the walnut oil vinaigrette: 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1/2 cup walnut oil ¼ cup canola oil 3 tablespoons cherry wine vinegar Salt and pepper Toasted walnuts for serving Method: Cover a rectangular dish about 12 x 7 x 1.5-inches with plastic wrap. Cover the bottom evenly with thin slices of rye bread. Place gelatine in a bowl, cover with cold water and let sit for 2 min. meanwhile heat the cream in a saucepan over medium heat, add the drained gelatine and stir to dissolve. Take of the heat and reserve. Place the cream cheese, Roquefort and walnuts in the food processor and process until smooth. Add the cream, process 1 min and transfer to a bowl. Add the pink peppercorns, celery, chives and dill. Salt to taste. Pour this mixture in the prepared dish and refrigerate overnight. Before serving, slice the cheese cake in 2.5 cm squares, garnish with a walnut half and sprinkle with pink peppercorns and a drizzle of olive oil. Prepare the vinaigrette: in a small bowl, mix to combine the honey and mustard, whisking constantly, add the oils in a thin stream until you obtain a nice emulsion. Flavour with the vinegar, salt and pepper. Serve each Roquefort square with a small side salad of mixed greens dressed with the walnut oil vinaigrette and topped with toasted walnuts.   A final word from Chef Ruth   Great wines paired with inspired cooking is a match made in heaven. Grilled Lamb Skewers in Merquén Marinade By: Chef Ruth Van Waerebeek This dishes combines juicy, grilled Lamb that has been marinated in a unique, smoked chili pepper spice mix that is inspired by Chile's indigenous Mapuche Indians, with succulent peaches. This sweet and spicy combination is offset by the crisp and cooling Chilean style mint salsa. This is a great recipe for sharing with friends and family. Castillero del Diablo Reserva Privada Priced from $13.99 In the mouth the wine is well structured with the richness of the dark berried Cabernet fruit cut by the spice and brightness of the Syrah. The finish is much like the nose with smoky and peppery notes offering a nice counterpoint to the rich fruit. A lot of wine for those looking for a big, rich darkly fruited style.    (hide)

  From the article Pairing Wines with Concha y Toro I

  
  

• February 2010

  Make Valentines Day Special with Rioja White, Red, or Rosado: Rioja brings magic to the table Valentine's Day is fast approaching, and with it thoughts turn to romance and indulgence. With times the way they are, I know a lot of couples who are choosing to... Read more Make Valentines Day Special with Rioja White, Red, or Rosado: Rioja brings magic to the table Valentine's Day is fast approaching, and with it thoughts turn to romance and indulgence. With times the way they are, I know a lot of couples who are choosing to spend the evening cooking for each other, and sharing an intimate meal for two. Much more romantic than being harried along through your Valentines’ dinner so that the next seating can be ushered in, don’t you think? When you’re planning such a special dinner you don’t want to worry about the wine, so that all your attention can be focused on your someone special. The wines of Rioja, white, red and rosado, are among the most food friendly, versatile, and affordable wines on the market, perfect for turning a Sunday dinner (hint, hint) into something extra special. With so many great Rioja wines to choose from, making your choice might seem to be a challenge, but an easy way to plan out a meal is to start off with a crisp Rioja Blanco. It's simply perfect for an aperitif, to share while cooking together, and for all sorts of appetizers. Oysters anyone?  If you’re serving any sort of rich dish, follow it up with  a red Rioja Reserva. Elegant, balanced and refined it’s the perfect wine for dinner and dessert! Is it time for chocolate yet? What to expect: Rioja Rioja is best known for its grand red wines. The Reservas and, in particular, Gran Reservas are world-class wines that deliver amazing complexity in a fantastically versatile, silky, medium bodied style. These wines are among the easiest to pair with food, though there are some dishes that call for other options. Not to fear, Rioja has those covered with bright, crisp whites, and rich rosados that are sure to please every palate, not to mention wallet.   Learn more about Rioja: Visit Vibrant Rioja Make your Valentine's Day special with the unique and exotic Chocolate - Coffee Potatoes By; Chef Jill Paradiso That’s right, Rioja works wonders with chocolate. Reservas pair superbly with dark chocolate. Be daring this Valentines’ day and try this easy, yet exotic side dish from Chef Jill Paradiso, that can be served along side almost any main course (fish, fowl, game, beef...you name it). Jill recommends pairing this dish with a Crianza. From Joven to Gran Reserva Find the style of Rioja that's right for you. Rioja is produced in several styles, each signifying different ageing requirements and flavor profiles. It’s easy to find the style that suits your palate.  Joven are young, fruity wines that are best consumed in their youth for their fresh flavors. The other classifications all include required ageing in oak barrels that ranges from  at least 6 months for Crianza, to at least 24 months for Gran Reservas. Jill Paradiso is the Vibrant Rioja Northeast Regional Specialist and classically trained chef that has worked in the kitchens of Mario Batali and Jean-Georges Vongerichten – you might recognize them. She has also done recipe development for Martha Stewart, Whole Foods Markets, and Dean and Deluca and she’s been kind enough to share one of her recipes with us.   CHOCOLATE, COFFEE POTATOES Here is a fun, savory chocolate-laced dish, perfect for an intimate Valentine's Day Dinner at home! It is a snap to make, can be served along side almost any main course (fish, fowl, game, beef...you name it). Jill recommends pairing this dish with a Crianza. You will need three pieces of aluminum foil for the recipe.  Serves 4 (as a side dish) 2 lbs potatoes, cut in half lengthwise *I recommend using either small, red potatoes (also known as new potatoes) or fingerling potatoes 1/4 cup dark chocolate, chopped (you can also use chocolate chips) 2 tablespoons coffee grinds 1 tableapoon olive oil sea salt, to taste Note: These potatoes can be done on the grill or in the oven. 1. Get fire going in grill or pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. 2. Place cut potatoes on 1 piece of aluminum foil. Fold foil around potatoes to create a boat. 3. Add remaining ingredients. 4. Cover the top of the potatoes with a second piece of foil to create a sealed package. Wrap the entire package with the third piece of foil- this will ensure that no liquids leak out. 5. Place foil package directly on grill, or in middle rack of oven Cook about 20 minutes on grill/ 30 minutes in oven or until fork tender. Cooking time may vary slightly, depending upon the size of the potatoes. Once the potatoes are cooked through, I like to leave them on the grill for at least another 5 minutes or finish them under the broiler for 2 minutes so that they get nice and crispy!    (hide)

  From the article Rioja for Valentine's Day

  
  

• February 2010

  I agree with Gantt, but one piece of advice I would offer is what someone told ... they are a big part of my wine rack.

  Forum post in the topic Don't know what I don't know... by Flamefighter

  
  

• January 2010

  Da Wine Dog !! ...You'ave got it! Thank you! That is exactly why I joined SNOOTH! I am expanding my horizons! I love the interaction very much. A friend moved me into Zins...I enjoyed. At merely $10. I had Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel...quite earthy. Deux Amis 2007 (YES ...2007)... Read moreDa Wine Dog !! ...You'ave got it! Thank you! That is exactly why I joined SNOOTH! I am expanding my horizons! I love the interaction very much. A friend moved me into Zins...I enjoyed. At merely $10. I had Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel...quite earthy. Deux Amis 2007 (YES ...2007) Sonoma county Zinfandel. It is blended from Alexander valley fruit and Dry Creek. Quite peppery. I might lay away the California Classic ...2006 Sonoma Valley Old Hill Zin. I am told that it will evolve beautifully with bottle aging. I think that it is from the oldest vineyard in Ravenswood. This is going to be ...a wine of the decisive moment! POWERFUL! I also know about Storybook Mountain(Calistoga) and 2006 Russian River Valley Rancho Bello Vineyard Zinfandel .....the taste of silk...... a dream served with grilled rack of lamb.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic New Member Intro by amour

  
  

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