Wine Legend

• October 2009

  Carmignano   I will devote this column to the small appellation of Carmignano. Carmignano is the Tuscan appellation closest to where we are living in Prato. It is small and had to fight for its inclusion in the DOCG scheme of things, a fight that was won in 1975. Before that... Read moreCarmignano   I will devote this column to the small appellation of Carmignano. Carmignano is the Tuscan appellation closest to where we are living in Prato. It is small and had to fight for its inclusion in the DOCG scheme of things, a fight that was won in 1975. Before that Carmignano was subsumed under the Chianti Montalbano region.   The wines in the Carmignano area had a reputation for depth and longevity dating back 7 centuries (at that time, 100% Sangiovese). Carmignano is unique in that its wines are now a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. The French varietals have been used in Carmignano blends long before the advent of the so-called “Super Tuscans” (which probably began with Tignanello, of the Antinori stable, in 1971). Legend has it that, as the power of the ruling Medici Dukes was waning in the late 17th Century, they married into the French royal family. The French naturally brought their own grape varieties along with them to Italy - these have now been shown to be Cabernet Franc in the main, and Cabernet Sauvignon - and planted them alongside Sangiovese in the Tuscan countryside, most especially around the Carmignano area. The power that the Medici family wielded, and the length of time they were in power, is truly amazing. The Tuscan countryside around Florence is dotted with large Medici villas, some of which have been restored to reflect their former glory.   Every year there is a festival of Carmignano wine in Prato - I Vini Profumi - The Perfumed Wines, and naturally I attended. Most of the 20 odd producers of the Carmignano district exhibited their wines, with a separate guided tasting by an Italian Association of Sommeliers representative. I include my tasting notes on the pick of the bunch. You will see that Cabernet Franc has given way to Cabernet Sauvignon, and its old stable-mate Merlot, in the wines below.   Two final words. Firstly, just like in the coastal region of Bolgheri (home of Sassicaia and Ornellaia), some of Carmignano’s Bordeaux blends are gaining a better reputation in the international wine media than their Sangiovese-Cabernet counterparts. Whether this relates to greater palate familiarity I am unsure. Finally, in the Carmignano region, most producers produce a Barco Reale. This is usually their basic ‘house’ wine. (Barco Reale literally means the wall or fence around the Medici property.) Whilst at one time these wines were generally unoaked, these days most spend about 6 months in oak. I find these wines amongst the best bargains in Tuscany. In Italy, unlike Australia, wine is considerably cheaper when bought directly from the cantina or winery. The blends are similar to other wines from Carmignano, and I have picked up Barco Reale bargains from 5 Euro and less. These wines, when the weather starts to cool, will be my quaffers. I am unsure if you can track any down in Australia, and what they might cost, but f you see a bottle, it might be worth a try - for curiosity’s sake! On to the tasting… Colline San Biagio Carmignano DOCG 2005 This is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Oak dominated this wine, whose fruit was a touch muted. There was good tannic structure and adequate acidity (16) Mauro Vannucci ‘Il Sasso’ IGT 2006 This is an IGT wine but with the same varieties and proportions of the DOCG above - they are from different producers I should stress. This was a big wine. Toasty bacon (probably an oak influence) with slight vegetal characters (from Cabernet?) led to a somewhat hot finish (Its label says it is only 13% alc). (16) Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2004 Made from 75% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Canaiolo, this wine displayed the classical perfumed nose, with stewed dark fruit on the palate, a nice mouthfeel with good supporting acid and tannins. (17.25) Pratesi Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006 Another big wine but in which all elements are well balanced. It a 70%/20%/10% mix of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Had some savoury elements within its ample fruit flavours, which I enjoyed. (17.5) Tenuta Pierazzuoli Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2005 The 20% Cabernet Sauvignon component was immediately discernible by the presence of cassis and herbal notes on the nose, but on the palate, Sangiovese dominated with cherries and plums. There was a touch of elegance to the wine. (18) Ambra Carmignano Riserva Elzana DOCG 2004 This blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet was most impressive for its length, not to mentioned its structure and elegance. A thoroughly well made wine with dark fruit elements in perfect balance with oak, tannins and acid. Will age well for 7+ years. (18.25)    (hide)

  From the article A Boot-full of Wine : Carmignano

  
  

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• September 2009

  Here's a rating scheme on the 100pt scale that I like better than how ratings are currently administered by WA, WS et al (at least it attempts to use the top 50 points of the scale!). It comes from the website of a French online retailer: 95-100 Legend 90-94 Outstanding 85-89... Read moreHere's a rating scheme on the 100pt scale that I like better than how ratings are currently administered by WA, WS et al (at least it attempts to use the top 50 points of the scale!). It comes from the website of a French online retailer: 95-100 Legend 90-94 Outstanding 85-89 Excellent 80-84 Very good 70-79 Good 60-69 Average 50-59 Low Here's a page from their website, with their scale at bottom left. http://www.sodivin.com/Anglais/achat-de-vins/The-Cellar/Bordeaux/Pauillac/achat-vin-/-1994/Pauillac-Pontet-Canet-1994-Bordeaux-the-best-wines-and-growths-from-the-best-vintages-SoDivin-Pauillac-Pontet-Canet-1994-Bordeaux_4024_1994_.html And here's an interesting older Snooth thread on this subject that I just stumbled across: http://www.snooth.com/talk/topic/wine-scoring-methodologies/    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Are scores getting higher? by dmcker

  
  

• August 2009

  Is there a site to go to that gives detailed instructions and breakdowns regarding the 100-point scale and how to implement it while tasting wine? I've been to a few sites, such as: http://www.erobertparker.com/info/legend.asp where Parker makes claims regarding the severity of his... Read moreIs there a site to go to that gives detailed instructions and breakdowns regarding the 100-point scale and how to implement it while tasting wine? I've been to a few sites, such as: http://www.erobertparker.com/info/legend.asp where Parker makes claims regarding the severity of his grading, as well as making clear that his system comes from schoolday experiences with grading systems ;-) http://corkd.com/how_to_score_wine_on_the_100_point_scale where it becomes even clearer how subjective the grading is and several others like http://miamiwine.com/2008/10/05/help-me-improve-vinometrico-a-visual-wine-description-system.aspx http://www.thefreelibrary.com/The+100+Point+Wine+Rating+System+and+Why+I+Hate+It-a01073943300 and http://pointlesswines.com/id11.html which attempt to debunk the 100pt. system entirely. I was wondering if there was anything out there that was a bit more rigorous regarding methodolgy...    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Are scores getting higher? by dmcker

  
  

• July 2009

  Thanks for the comments....The Torrontes reminded me a lot of a Gewürztraminer. I didn't hate the Bull's Blood--it was...different, but I didn't hate it. Since we live in PA we are at the mercy of what the state of PA thinks is acceptable to sell at the "Wine and Spirits" shop, and... Read moreThanks for the comments....The Torrontes reminded me a lot of a Gewürztraminer. I didn't hate the Bull's Blood--it was...different, but I didn't hate it. Since we live in PA we are at the mercy of what the state of PA thinks is acceptable to sell at the "Wine and Spirits" shop, and so the the Bull's Blood is the only Hungarian wine available there right now. I haven't much to compare it to. Nobody picks a communist wine quite like the PA Liquor Control Board, LOL (I'm sure they have some sort of buyer, but there is a lot that is not available). So in comparison to nothing...the Bulls Blood is not horrible. The legend is interesting, we posted it on our website a couple of weeks ago when that episode came out. I agree with you about the Reidel glasses.They do nothing more that show that you have nothing better to spend your money on. :-) I appreciate you listening.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic New East Coast Wine Geeks... by WineGeekJen

  
  

• July 2009

  German flavor? Not sure what you mean. The grape is related to or may even be malvasia. Very floral and peachy and sometimes very good, sometimes not so. Incidentally, I did listen to the tasting you did re the Bikaver 2005 and I really have to comment on the speculation in... Read moreGerman flavor? Not sure what you mean. The grape is related to or may even be malvasia. Very floral and peachy and sometimes very good, sometimes not so. Incidentally, I did listen to the tasting you did re the Bikaver 2005 and I really have to comment on the speculation in that podcast. 1. FWIW, you selected probably the worst example of "wine" from Hungary that is shipped to the US. It's hard for me to think of something worse, but maybe if I did some research I'd find some. 2. Someone suggested "root vegetable" and that was a very good call. Some of the horrid wines from Hungary seem to have a note of carrots or turnips. But your wine is communist-era co-op wine that hasn't really changed much since the regime change. FYI - According to legend, Bull's Blood dates back to the Turk invasions. They had surrounded the city of Eger, which is a beautiful city incidentally. The Hungarians thought their days were over so they got drunk and eventually decided what the hell and they picked up their swords and clubs and ran down the mountains to attack the Turks. The Turks saw the red wine dripping from their beards and as they themselves were non drinkers, they assumed it was blood and the Hungarians were crazy and they ran away. 3. Today Bikaver is a blend of grapes. It's also not only made in Eger. It was so debased under communism that most people still think it's crap, several steps lower than Two Buck Chuck, but there are a few producers who have decided that they want to reclaim their heritage and they're making really good Bikaver, sometimes even stunningly good. Unfortunately, I don't know of any imported or I'd suggest one or two that you might try. 5. Hungary is not really "eastern" Europe, rather it's usually considered central Europe. 6. "Riedel glasses having different shapes because the wine hits a different part of your palate" Not really. That's a marketing gimmick. It's not possible to design such a glass. Is your head tilted? Did you toss the wine back? Is your mouth exactly the precise dimensions of the person next to you? How does one have any idea where any wine will hit any person's mouth and design a glass to target that area? Moreover, stand over a sink with a half-full glass. Pour it. What direction does the water go? Straight down at the speed of gravity. It doesn't flow forward. Riedel has stopped trying to make that claim these days. Anyhow, at least you know someone listened! Cheers.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic New East Coast Wine Geeks... by GregT

  
  

• April 2009

  I am surprised that everyone left out the 'legend' of Shiraz. One of the stories/legends is that the grape/wine named Shiraz was a result of where people believed the grape came from. The original vines planted came from the city in Persia (modern day Iran) and were brought to... Read moreI am surprised that everyone left out the 'legend' of Shiraz. One of the stories/legends is that the grape/wine named Shiraz was a result of where people believed the grape came from. The original vines planted came from the city in Persia (modern day Iran) and were brought to the Southern Hemisphere (South Africa, Australia, South America) came from. That said, Syrah and Shiraz are genetically the same. UC Davis in Northern California has done DNA studies on numerous grapes to establish heritage and classification and have shown that Syrah and Shiraz are the same. However, just like Cab from different areas produces wine that tastes different the same can be said for Syrah/Shiraz. Working for a producer in California that produces both a Syrah and Shiraz I can say that the difference is definitely style ... well for us.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Syrah/Shiraz by HondaJohn

  
  

• December 2008

  With Black Friday and Internet Monday behind us with a swift kick to the start of the Holiday shopping season, PNC Wealth Management, the team that has been reporting annually since 1984 the total cost of the items in the song “The Twelve Days of Christmas,” released this... Read moreWith Black Friday and Internet Monday behind us with a swift kick to the start of the Holiday shopping season, PNC Wealth Management, the team that has been reporting annually since 1984 the total cost of the items in the song “The Twelve Days of Christmas,” released this year’s tally. The gifts will set you back $21,080.10.  Up 8% year over year (more than double the Consumer Price Index YOY).  So, in the holiday spirit, I thought I would take the liberty to recreate my own Twelve Days of Christmas inserting the wines on my wish list this year and the cost of these wines based on a simple Snooth search.  Let’s see if I break the bank. On the Twelfth Day of Christmas, My true love sent to me…. Twelve drummers drumming, This is my chance to beat the drum for a case of wine.  So, I’ll close my eyes real tight and hope the big man with the big beard and red sack is carrying twelve bottles of 1989 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis.  At $435 a bottle, that’s a fast start at $5,220.  But, hey, we’re in Italy, no better way to travel then in the breathtaking and beautiful reference point for racecars, a Ferrari. Eleven pipers piping, Pipers. How about Piper-Heidsieck Champagne?  Although good, I prefer Delamotte, Salon’s second label.  I’ll go Non Vintage on this one at $40 a bottle.  Total: $440. Ten lords a-leaping, Frog’s Leap, of course.  I’ll take ten bottles of 2003 Cabernet.  A Snooth search found the wines at $31/bottle.  A steal at $310. Nine ladies dancing, Champagne gets everyone dancing, but I got my fill already.  So, how about slow dancing with DuMOL’s 2006 Chardonnay “Isobel.”  Upon mailing list release the wine cost something like $60 a bottle.  That’s $540. Eight maids a-milking, Milk and wine don’t mix.  But the PNC report suggests that the “maids” would be eight minimum wage farmhands.  In California, minimum wage equals $8 an hour.  My favorite $8 wine is… who am I kidding?  I can’t remember the last $8 wine I drank and this is a wish list.  So, how about $50 a bottle; then, I’ll take ten bottles of Saint-Julien “Third Growth” Chateau Lagrange (2005).  There will be a great many wines on this list; some will need a little cellaring. $400. Seven swans a-swimming, It would be easy to insert a Joseph Swan Pinot Noir here, but instead, I am going to accept all seven Domaine de la Romanee-Conti wines (six Pinot Noirs and one Chardonnay).  Echezeaux, Grand Echezeaux, Romanee St. Vivant, Richebourg, La Tache, Romanee-Conti and Montrachet.  In the secondary market, DRC can fetch more than $3,000 a bottle for a recent vintage.  Seven bottles will break the budget, so why not spend $21,000 swimmingly. Six geese a-laying, Here are six bottles of wine I will need to lay down as well. A vertical of Haut-Brion starting from legendary vintage 2000 and ending with another legend, 2005.  That will cost a savvy shopper around $4,000. Five golden rings, Portia, the heroine of Shakespeare’s Merchant of Venice, questions her prospective suitors with a choice between three casks filled with gold, silver and iron.  Win or lose her love, I’d think we’d all pick the gold.  So, I’m going with Oriel wine company’s golden delicious blend of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Tocai, called Portia.  For twenty bucks a bottle; times five, that’s a mere $100. Four calling birds, I’ll give into buying by the label on this one and begrudgingly accept four bottles of Blackbird Vineyards 2005 Proprietary Red at 80 bucks a bottle.  $320 total. Three French hens, Viognier from Condrieu is so seductive, I’ll “cap” these French hens with Rene Rostaing’s 2004 La Bonnette Condrieu.  At a total of $141, and after consuming three bottles in one night, you’ll need more than a rooster to wake me in the morning. Two turtle-doves, In the New Testament, the Holy Spirit is symbolized by a dove.  In the spirit of the passing of France’s finest Sauvignon Blanc maker, Didier Dagueneau, I will take a bottle of Silex and one of Pur Sang.  That’s $131. And a partridge in a pear tree! Sticking with an alliteration, my partridge in a pear tree will be a bottle of Petrus.  How about the Roberta Parker perfect scorer from 1990?  At auction recently, it hit a high of $3,872.  A fine finisher to a list that has gone way over budget.  $36,444.  An average of $467 a bottle, egad!  But, yes (maybe), Virginia, there is a Santa Claus.  Hopefully he won’t be carrying any Virginia wines with him.  (Just kidding, you fine winemakers on the East Coast!) Dan Petroski is Assistant Winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley. Dan has an MBA from New York University and worked as an Ad Exec in New York for several years, before switching it up and trading his suit for a move out west.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic The Twelve Days of Christmas by Dan

  
  

• September 2008

  Thus far in my Wine and Music pairings (which started in May), I have not included any "classical" music and have focused mostly on summery and zesty tunes that fit nicely with the recent warmer months and with less heavy wines.  As we have now entered the cooler climate and the... Read moreThus far in my Wine and Music pairings (which started in May), I have not included any "classical" music and have focused mostly on summery and zesty tunes that fit nicely with the recent warmer months and with less heavy wines.  As we have now entered the cooler climate and the changing of the seasons, nothing seems more fitting then a purple colored, full bodied red wine and some contemporary piano compositions. In this case, the artist refers to his material as "Post-Classical" and it’s a blend of classical and electronic.  The album included in this pairing is 24 Postcards in Full Colour from producer/artist/composer Max Richter. An interesting note about this album is that as part of the project, each track has been paired with its own image (there are 24 tracks, 24 postcards images included with the album). This album is a great match for a Petite Sirah, which packs a more intense punch than a regular syrah. Petite Sirah is said to be better when paired with full flavored foods such as roast beef, or with mature cheeses. In comparison, this album is full of embellishing 2-3 minute compositions which are precise yet powerful, and are chock full of mature emotional flavor. This album is a pleasant and complimentary match for the dark yet inviting essence of this wine. Sones 2004 Petite Syrah - Monterey County Wine Style: Red: Petite Sirah Wine Region:  California: Santa Cruz Mountains Wine Year: 2004 Wine Label: Sones Cellars Wine Link: http://www.snooth.com/wine/sones-petite-sirah-central-coast-2003/ Wine Description: This approachable Petite Sirah begins with aromas of cherries and cedar which are followed by flavors of dark berries, oak, and black pepper. This wine has a firm yet subtle texture and a good mouth feel.  There were a total of 145 cases produced. Sones Cellars is a small family winery located in Santa Cruz, California. Their flagship wines are Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. Michael and Lois Sones met in the mid-1980s while working at sea on a cruise ship. I also mentioned this wine briefly in my previous post as a good pairing with southern rock outfit Delta Spirit. As much as I enjoyed tasting this wine with a rock band, I find that the more compositional aspect of Max Richter really pulls the emotion and the substance out of the wine and leaves room for opening up of flavors. Max Richter Music Style:  Classical: Composition Music Region: London, UK Music Year: 2008 Music Label:  Fat Cat Music Link:  http://www.maxrichter.com Music Description:  German Born, now living in London, Max Richter studied Piano at University of Edinburgh and is said to be heavily influenced by Philip Glass. Richter’s first project was called Piano Circus and was an ensemble of six pianists that has performed all over the world. Max Richter has recently produced albums for folk legend Vashti Bunyan, and for the Scottish rock quartet The Twilight Sad - also on the Fat Cat label. Max has also performed and written with electronic luminaries such as Future Sound of London and Roni Size. The name of this track is "H in New England" and it includes gently cascading and fluxing trails of piano. It is both complex and simple and includes a series of emotionally gripping crescendos. It reminds me a lot of the changing of the seasons (and the leaves in New England) that starts later in September. H in New England Adam Rabinovitz is Senior Director of Retail Marketing at IODA, the global leader in digital distribution, marketing, and technology solutions for the independent music industry. IODA distributes music from over 4000 labels, representing over 50 different countries and over 170 different genre styles.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic A Picturesque Pairing by Adam

  
  

• July 2008

  "Uncork, unwind and let the journey begin" - Bohemian Highway Winery The first time I purchased Bohemian Highway Chardonnay was just after a long windy drive down the actual "Bohemian Highway" while en route to Cazadero, CA. After such a memorable and scenic route, I immediately... Read more"Uncork, unwind and let the journey begin" - Bohemian Highway Winery The first time I purchased Bohemian Highway Chardonnay was just after a long windy drive down the actual "Bohemian Highway" while en route to Cazadero, CA. After such a memorable and scenic route, I immediately noticed the artwork and label name on the wine bottle during a stop at a local wine retailer called Sophie's Cellars. I especially liked the price point ($8.99 though I’ve now seen it as low as $5.99) and decided to give a few bottles a try. Prior to moving to California, I worked as a music supervisor for independent films in New York. The most recent film I worked on was titled Shooting Livien and featured Dominic Monaghan (Lost), Jason Behr (Roswell), and Sarah Wynter (24). My favorite part of the process of pairing music and film was "scoring" a scene - choosing the right lyrics, tempo and mood for a particular moment in a film's plot - a moment where the song playing the background can tell as good and as important a part of the story as the images themselves. A musical score in this capacity acts as an "enhancement" of the movie experience, it adds color and context, and pulls the story together in a very poignant and special way. When the pairing is done well, magic happens. As per recent studies published on wine, music has been proven to similarly enhance the experience of wine. Actually finding a good example of a lyrical pairing with the wine experience is more difficult then it sounds. I generally find the "mood" of the track is easier to pair than the lyrics. After discovering that Vetiver's music and this chardonnay as a great match from a mood perspective, I was excited to find that the song "Blue Driver" lyrically exemplifies the concept of a nice relaxing drive on the "Bohemian" highway. "Foot upon on the throttle, watching the old slow road, looking out the rear view mirror, for the highway patrol"- "Blue Driver" song lyric The track is a bluesy fun filled tune with acoustic guitars and a relaxed tempo. As much as this song compliments the taste of the chardonnay itself, the addition of lyrics about highway driving in tandem with the imagery of the label is a nice coupling that adds to the experience and in my book makes for an unforgettable Wine and Music pairing. Enjoy! Wine: Bohemian Highway Chardonnay Wine Year: 2005 Wine Style: Chardonnay Wine Region: Northern California, Russian River Wine Label: Bohemian Highway Wine Link: http://www.snooth.com/wine/bohemian-highway-chardonnay-2005-5/ Wine Description: This lightly-oaked Chardonnay is marketed as the "embodiment of the casual, free-flowing spirit you'll find along the way when driving the Bohemian Highway". The wine is great for summer and is clean and crisp and full of fresh apple and pear flavors. I have shared a few bottles with a salmon dinner and some friends, and on another occasion with a picnic lunch hike and it was perfectly suited for either occasion. I was not as impressed with the merlot from Bohemian Highway, so would steer interested parties toward their Chardonnay. Artist: Vetiver Music Year: 2008 (May) Music Style: Folk Music Region: San Francisco, CA Music Label: Gnomonsong Music Link: http://www.midheaven.com/artists/vetiver.html Music Description: Vetiver is guitarist and songwriter Andy Cabic and a host of his instrumentally savvy friends and touring buddies. Vetiver's most recent album "Thing of the Past" is comprised entirely of cover versions of some of the band's influences and favorite songs. I've had the pleasure of seeing Vetiver perform live on a number of occasions and they are always a treat. They have been releasing albums since 2005, which is the year of the Bohemian Chardonnay included in this pairing. As the band is from San Francisco, comparisons to The Grateful Dead and other psychedelic folk/Americana bands are often used. I do agree with these comparisons, but find that Vetiver has its own unique and desirable angle - one that is especially evident in songs such as the one posted here. In line with the relaxing, uncorked layed back mentality of the Bohemian Highway, it's worth noting that - "Blue Driver" was originally written and performed by Michael Hurley, a folk legend from the late 70's who has recorded records in many different parts of the country, including California. Although Hurley has never gained a large audience, critics, musicians, and loyal followers have all sung his praises. Hurley's music is a known influence for popular acts including Lucinda Williams, Smog, Yo La Tengo, and Cat Power. Hurley sings with Vetiver during the chorus of the song included with this post, and is the voice of the police man at the very end of the track. Fun stuff - check out Michael Hurley singing his own version of the track here. Vetiver - Blue Driver - blue_driver.mp3 Adam Rabinovitz is Senior Director of Retail Marketing at IODA, the global leader in digital distribution, marketing, and technology solutions for the independent music industry. IODA distributes music from over 4000 labels, representing over 50 different countries and over 170 different genre styles.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Bohemian Highway Blues by Adam

  
  

• May 2008

  Makes sense John, but when you start talking about clones and rootstock I wonder how much difference that really makes. I'm always intrigued when I see a wine labeled "Pinot Noir Clone 36" or somesuch. The legend is totally new to me, so thats very interesting.

  Forum post in the topic Help me with... by Philip

  
  

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