Bottle Bargains

• October 2009

  Carmignano   I will devote this column to the small appellation of Carmignano. Carmignano is the Tuscan appellation closest to where we are living in Prato. It is small and had to fight for its inclusion in the DOCG scheme of things, a fight that was won in 1975. Before that... Read moreCarmignano   I will devote this column to the small appellation of Carmignano. Carmignano is the Tuscan appellation closest to where we are living in Prato. It is small and had to fight for its inclusion in the DOCG scheme of things, a fight that was won in 1975. Before that Carmignano was subsumed under the Chianti Montalbano region.   The wines in the Carmignano area had a reputation for depth and longevity dating back 7 centuries (at that time, 100% Sangiovese). Carmignano is unique in that its wines are now a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. The French varietals have been used in Carmignano blends long before the advent of the so-called “Super Tuscans” (which probably began with Tignanello, of the Antinori stable, in 1971). Legend has it that, as the power of the ruling Medici Dukes was waning in the late 17th Century, they married into the French royal family. The French naturally brought their own grape varieties along with them to Italy - these have now been shown to be Cabernet Franc in the main, and Cabernet Sauvignon - and planted them alongside Sangiovese in the Tuscan countryside, most especially around the Carmignano area. The power that the Medici family wielded, and the length of time they were in power, is truly amazing. The Tuscan countryside around Florence is dotted with large Medici villas, some of which have been restored to reflect their former glory.   Every year there is a festival of Carmignano wine in Prato - I Vini Profumi - The Perfumed Wines, and naturally I attended. Most of the 20 odd producers of the Carmignano district exhibited their wines, with a separate guided tasting by an Italian Association of Sommeliers representative. I include my tasting notes on the pick of the bunch. You will see that Cabernet Franc has given way to Cabernet Sauvignon, and its old stable-mate Merlot, in the wines below.   Two final words. Firstly, just like in the coastal region of Bolgheri (home of Sassicaia and Ornellaia), some of Carmignano’s Bordeaux blends are gaining a better reputation in the international wine media than their Sangiovese-Cabernet counterparts. Whether this relates to greater palate familiarity I am unsure. Finally, in the Carmignano region, most producers produce a Barco Reale. This is usually their basic ‘house’ wine. (Barco Reale literally means the wall or fence around the Medici property.) Whilst at one time these wines were generally unoaked, these days most spend about 6 months in oak. I find these wines amongst the best bargains in Tuscany. In Italy, unlike Australia, wine is considerably cheaper when bought directly from the cantina or winery. The blends are similar to other wines from Carmignano, and I have picked up Barco Reale bargains from 5 Euro and less. These wines, when the weather starts to cool, will be my quaffers. I am unsure if you can track any down in Australia, and what they might cost, but f you see a bottle, it might be worth a try - for curiosity’s sake! On to the tasting… Colline San Biagio Carmignano DOCG 2005 This is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Oak dominated this wine, whose fruit was a touch muted. There was good tannic structure and adequate acidity (16) Mauro Vannucci ‘Il Sasso’ IGT 2006 This is an IGT wine but with the same varieties and proportions of the DOCG above - they are from different producers I should stress. This was a big wine. Toasty bacon (probably an oak influence) with slight vegetal characters (from Cabernet?) led to a somewhat hot finish (Its label says it is only 13% alc). (16) Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2004 Made from 75% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Canaiolo, this wine displayed the classical perfumed nose, with stewed dark fruit on the palate, a nice mouthfeel with good supporting acid and tannins. (17.25) Pratesi Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006 Another big wine but in which all elements are well balanced. It a 70%/20%/10% mix of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Had some savoury elements within its ample fruit flavours, which I enjoyed. (17.5) Tenuta Pierazzuoli Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2005 The 20% Cabernet Sauvignon component was immediately discernible by the presence of cassis and herbal notes on the nose, but on the palate, Sangiovese dominated with cherries and plums. There was a touch of elegance to the wine. (18) Ambra Carmignano Riserva Elzana DOCG 2004 This blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet was most impressive for its length, not to mentioned its structure and elegance. A thoroughly well made wine with dark fruit elements in perfect balance with oak, tannins and acid. Will age well for 7+ years. (18.25)    (hide)

  From the article A Boot-full of Wine : Carmignano

  
  

• October 2009

  I wasn't going to post anything but since this thread is still going . . . You can find a million wines under $15 but the question is whether you yourself would like to drink them. The more people who answer, the more random the list becomes until eventually you end up listing... Read moreI wasn't going to post anything but since this thread is still going . . . You can find a million wines under $15 but the question is whether you yourself would like to drink them. The more people who answer, the more random the list becomes until eventually you end up listing every wine in the whole world that is under $15. That might not be a bad thing. Anyhow, here are some things I wouldn't mind drinking and I tried to explain why. I posted this somewhere else a few years ago so it may be dated - I would love to find a wine under $10 or so that is good enough to justify buying, but rarely is it possible, at least in reds. I tried 2 Buck Chuck and Yellowtail. Both went down the drain. The latter especially was way too sweet - they either left a lot of residual sugar in it or added some. Nothing else going on with the wine other than some horrific sweetness. It used to be possible to get decent values for that price, but over the past 10 years or so that has changed. So we define $10 - $15 as cheap enough for every day. At that range, there is a lot. Spain is a great source. Try looking for some garnacha - it's by far the most widely planted red grape in the country and consequently in the world, and as a result, there are some real bargains to be found - Artazuri Garnacha - several versions but the cheap one is fine, lots of dark cherry fruit and a touch of spice and earth. Borsao or Las Rocas or Leilia or Tres Picos - all produce inexpensive versions of garnacha with more complexity than you'd ever guess from the price - usually have a touch of earth, ash and spice over the fruit. The Las Rocas can be very uneven depending on which lot your bottle comes from. It's made in millions of bottle runs. Also try some monastrell - it was grown for centuries but usually made a rustic, unpleasant, stinky wine until a few producers attempted to reach a little higher. Because it comes from a region relatively unknown in the US - Murcia, there is not demand from collectors and prices can be great. Altos de Luzon - a blend of moslty monastrell and syrah and I think cab, very earthy and leathery on the nose, great balance, very good job and one of the best values on the market from anywhere IMHO. They do a cheaper version but it's nasty IMO. The bodega led by Juan Gil has been a pioneer in raising the quality of the wine from the grape, and the Juan Gil wine itself is under $20 and great. In addition Casa Castillo does an inexpensive version and Rafael Cambra does a great one but it's over $20. Most of all, don't overlook the great grape of Spain - tempranillo. Too many to list but the traditional crianzas or better, joven wines, from Rioja especially can be great values. E.g. Marques de Riscal, Marques de Murrietta, etc, from Rioja. Regarding the Riscal Reserva - I cannot think of another wine in the world that you can pay less than $12 for and keep for the rest of your life. And it improves w age. Look for Joven or Crianza from Ribera del Duero too - Bodegas Arrocal, Gormaz, and Casajus (which I sell), or the wines of Alejandro Fernandez, like Condado de Haza, or from Toro, his el Vinculo. Greg already mentioned Flavium, which is a really good job of mencia from the north of Spain. There aren't a lot of good value mencia wines out, but that's one and so is the Abad Dom Bueno, which was listed by the NYT as the best value and again, disclaimer - it's something I sell. And don't overlook the whites. Lots of great verdejo available - usually has a touch of grapefruit and a crisp quality - it's what a sauvignon blanc would love to be but never can. There are many Spanish whites around for under $15 and rather than list them I'd suggest that you simply go to the store and pick one up. If you like it, try another. They're often sold by grape variety, so you can learn fast. And don't overlook the rosados either - as a rule, try to get them as fresh as you can, but there are a few that can age, believe it or not. Australia is always a good source of value - Rosemount has really decreased in quality, but is still OK w the whites, Oxford Landing, Two Hands (the Lucky Country is their only low-end red and the new imnporter is raising prices), Mollydooker (the new label from Sparky Marquis who used to make Marquis Phillips), Grant Burge, Jacobs Creek, Lindemanns, Penfolds and Peter Lehman all make a range of wines and their low ends are good. They tend to be fruity and also very "clean", in that you don't get funky, leathery notes on the nose for the most part. Also in Australia, don't ignore the whites. They make some of the best value riesling and semillon on the planet - usually very dry. I'd say just pick up what you find and if you don't like it, try something else. Not much from Napa or Sonoma but if you go to somewhere else in California, you can do well - Fess Parker from Santa Barbara makes a number of wines, Michael Phillips from Lodi makes big, fruity, brawny zins and syrah and cab and petite sirah. And Cline, as mentioned makes pretty good stuff, especially their zin and syrah that come in at your price point. Ravenswoods lower end isn't great - some people like it but go for their better stuff - they've really come back after a few off years. BV is sometimes OK w the Coastal label, but spend a little more - I think their Rutherford cab may be one of the best values in Napa - you can find it for as low as $17 sometimes and worth it. Washington has good values - the Chat St Michelle companies which also include Villa Mt Eden from CA, and Columbia Crest, among others. All of their whites are solid values. The Eroica from Chat St Michelle wins awards every year - it's a riesling that's got a touch of residual sugar, like many kabinett wines from the Mosel these days, but it's always a nice wine and around $18. But if you spend less on the basic riesling, you won't be disappointed and you'll have a few bucks extra for a red. The Reserve cab and syrah from Columbia Crest lists over $25 but can often be found for much less and like I said, if you average out the price of the white and the red, you hit your price point. Italy is easy if you stay south - Sicily has decent wines made from Nero d'Avola like Morgante, with dark fruit flavors and great balance, as well as from other local grapes but their prices are inching up. A-Mano is a primitivo (zinfandel) that is made in Puglia by Chris Shannon from California - it goes for around $8 and is a great value every year. May be the best primitivo from Italy, although Appolonio is good too. Usually they have a little more acidity than some of the CA versions and for the price, a lot more complexity. Monte Antico is from Tuscany and is a pretty good value, as is Gabbiano - a Chianti. If you're looking at a cheap Chianti, you could do a lot worse. Hungary has a few interesting wines - Craftsman is a label that was created to develop good, inexpensive wines as an intro to their grapes and wine. All of them are decent values if you can find them. You can learn about grapes that most people have never heard of and enjoy yourself at the same time. I've had all of these many times and in general, the whites tend to be fruity and have a touch of residual sugar, but they're not sweet. And don't forget Argentina, maybe the best place for the US right now, given the currency rates and how we are suffering against the Euro. You can get any number of malbecs and cabs - Sur, Ox, Gascon, Altos las Hormigas, Altos de las Terrazas, Norton, Dona Paula, etc. All are actually nice. And if you spend a few bucks more for the reservas, you will have excellent wine. The Terrazas for example, makes a reserva that I get for $14.99 and it can hold its own with wines costing much more. These all tend to be fairly big wines with a good shot of oak and spice. Chile makes low-cost wines, but I find them frequently rather green and rarely buy them. They are quite different as a rule than the wines of Argentina, which are more lush and softer. Those from Chile, when ripe, still end to have a bit more in the way of herbal notes, but they also have less opulent fruit and a leaner profile. Can be quite nice in some cases if that's your thing. France remains a strange place. Of its most famous wine, some is the most overpriced on the planet and some represents outstanding value for the money. Beaujolais has a bad rap because people tired of the fashion for the cheap, young wine. As a result, there is little demand for the cru beaujolais and they represent outstanding values. Moreover, some of them are quite ageworthy and for the price of a bottle of Burgundy, you can get a case to lay down. In ten years you'll have a wine that will make your Burgundy drinking friends envious. Brun and Vissoux are 2 that I am happy to own. Syrah from the Northern Rhone is as expensive as Burgundy or Bordeaux, but syrah grows elsewhere and can be delicious. Garnacha, or as they call it, grenache, can be an even better value. There is a lot of swill produced but also a lot of great wine. Chapelle St Arnoux produces my favorite bottle of wine from the South Rhone in the Ventoux region. It's under $10 and drinks wonderfully and is a blend of garnacha and other "Rhone" grapes. It's worth remembering that except for syrah, the most important grapes in the Rhone cam from Spain, so look for the same grapes I mentioned for Spain - grenache, monastrell (which they call mourvedre) and carinena (which they call carignan). These are frequently blended together and in fact, most wines from the south of France are probably blends, so you won’t generally see a bottle that states the grape variety. Doesn’t matter - try them anyway. In the same way that the co-op wines produced in the millions can still represent value in Spain, those of France can also represent value. Many Cote du Rhones are surprisingly good and they have similar profiles to the Spanish wines I described earlier - earthy, strawberry/cherry fruit, spice. Most of the wines I've mentioned from France, Spain and Italy are made with little or no new oak. The cost of a French barrel is around $800 these days, so it can be a great savings to the winery if they use old, used barrels or cement tanks. France also has regions that are frequently ignored. The Loire for example produces great cabernet franc. It tends to have a green and herbal note to it, VERY unlike the wines from the south which are generally much fruitier and more pleasant up front, but if you like that quality, it's hard to find better values anywhere. The whites from the Loire, especially the far west, are outstanding values if you like super lean, crisp, minimalist whites. It's also the home of sauvignon blanc, and while I'm not a huge fan of the grape, the wines from that region can be exceptional. Lesser known areas like Jura, Savoie, Madiran, and others can be sources of value but as it's unlikely you'll find much, I'll not say anything about them. At any rate, if you buy a handful of wines from each of the areas I mentioned, you'll get a good overview and have enough to keep you busy for a long time.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What is your favorite wine... by GregT

  
  

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• August 2009

  Looking back over my notes this week, I see that I tracked Greg for most of the wines, though I generally gave them a point or two more each. The exceptions: Greg rated the Franco Conterno and the Marcarini Brunate 2 points higher than I did, and I didn't like the Burlotto... Read moreLooking back over my notes this week, I see that I tracked Greg for most of the wines, though I generally gave them a point or two more each. The exceptions: Greg rated the Franco Conterno and the Marcarini Brunate 2 points higher than I did, and I didn't like the Burlotto Monvigliero at all. I gave that 70 points versus Greg's 91. The biggest surprise to me was the Rizzi Pajore, which I had tasted from tank in December 2005 and thought was extraordinary for its depth and balance. Rizzi's importer didn't bring in the 04s (Greg supplied this bottle), which was a drag because I'd been planning to stock up. From bottle now, it seemed surprisingly strawberry-ish (which I don't consider typical) and a bit jammy. I believe they picked quite late in 2004 - perhaps a tad too late. I still gave it 89/90, but it was not the blockbuster I expected after tasting it at the cantina.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Barolo 2004, do bargains... by John E Morris

  
  

• August 2009

  If you want wine for under $15 there are many many wines that fit the bill. You can look at the Snooth database for suggestions. If you like Burgundy, get some cru Beaujolais and keep it for a few years. It's one of the great bargains under the sun. Also, try some wines from... Read moreIf you want wine for under $15 there are many many wines that fit the bill. You can look at the Snooth database for suggestions. If you like Burgundy, get some cru Beaujolais and keep it for a few years. It's one of the great bargains under the sun. Also, try some wines from Bierzo in Spain. Very different, but not as fruity and sweet as those from the south of Spain. Also try Lagrein from Italy or Blaufrankish from Austria. Those all tend to be a bit lighter and can be nicely earthy. Some are available for between fifteen and twenty. If you like Chateauneuf du Pape but don't want to spend the money, buy from Cotes du Ventoux, Luberon, or Vacqueyras. Or simply Cotes du Rhone. Many values out there. In the same way, you can find wines from Spain that are similar - garnacha based from the south regions, for example. Or crianza or joven wines from Ribera del Duero or Rioja. California resists putting out much in that price range for some reason when it comes to cabs, but there are some zins out there that are pretty good for the money. And barbera from Italy. Whites are much easier to find in that range so I won't recommend any.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic So why can't I find very many... by GregT

  
  

• July 2009

  As many of you know I am very enthusiastic about the latest Barolo releases. The  best wines of the 2005 vintage will probably eclipse the best that 2004 has to offer. One small problem is that with the sales of premium wines grinding to a halt it makes no sense for retailers to be... Read more As many of you know I am very enthusiastic about the latest Barolo releases. The  best wines of the 2005 vintage will probably eclipse the best that 2004 has to offer. One small problem is that with the sales of premium wines grinding to a halt it makes no sense for retailers to be buying these 2005’s. With many 2004’s still on the shelves and discounts popping up left and right I thought it was a perfect time to revisit some of the best values in 2004 Barolo to see how they’ve fared with an additional year in bottle. As usual I tasted each wine twice, once immediately apon opening and then again after about 4 hours. As is to be expected most of the wines changed significantly over the course of this time, some for the better and some for the worse. As a group these lower-priced Barolos, with a single Barbaresco thrown in, were a very elegant and immediately appealing group of wines. They are testament to the vintages early appeal with their relatively silky tannins and integrated acidity. A few wines showed a touch of dilution, which is not uncommon in this vintage of relatively high yields. All in all I found most of the wines have remained true to their earlier assessments. Marcarini continues to impress with wines that start slowly yet have such wonderful balance that they virtually burst into shape with time in the bottle. Guido Porro makes what is arguable the best value in all of Barolo. Luigi Pira needs to be better represented in my cellar, Franco Conterno too! The notes pretty much speak for themselves and offer a great glimpse at a set of wines that are just finding their running legs before drifting off to their big sleep. On the note I might add that I think these wines will have a relatively short closed window with few exceptions. Now onto the wines. Flight 1 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo -  Apon opening this had a nice array of tarry, herbal and clay tones that recalled calamine lotion with a touch of lurking roasted strawberry. In the mouth it offered up ripe tannins and balanced acidity with relatively simple cherry fruit tones and a touch of earthy spiciness on the follow through. With air this gained a touch of gamy leatheriness and some smoky, white pepper scented notes of sausages. The fruit turned a bit blacker and gained a light medicinal edge but the wine remained an excellent, very typical straightforward slightly rustic Barolo 88pts Marty felt “the tannins were a little rough on this one, a little rustic” though Justin “loved the style” and found the wine “harmonious”. Burlotto Barolo - At first this offered up some simple light cherry in alcohol and sweet earth tones but air caused this to gain a touch of a raw/terpene note. In the mouth this was delicate yet drying with a decidedly savory and spicy character that was a bit chewy and tough with a long, mineral tinged finish. Air did not move this much though it did gain quite a clear strawberry tone to the fruit. It never really seemed to come together and remained uninspiring 85pts James found this to be “ too fruity, too much strawberry”  though John found the wine to be “fresher, yet it seems disjointed”. Rizzi Barbaresco Pajore - With a light nose that showed sandy soil tones and dried grass notes this was delicately aromatic right out of the bottle.  Airing brought out some sharp, spicy soil tones and a fine white mushroom/woodsy edge to the bouquet.  In the mouth this was zesty and bright with succulent strawberry fruit and delicious, clean yet uncomplicated fruit and soil tones that gained nice complexity with air revealing a touch of anise and bitter root tones that complimented the wild berry/lingonberry fruit that emerged on the round, polished mid-palate.  89pts Jim found this to be “like herbal tea, but I wish it was sweeter” while John found “an almost Pelaverga pepperiness” to this wine. Flight 2 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis - This smelled big and muscular right out of the bottle and that translated into a rich and smooth mouthfeel packed with fine-grained tannins and fleshy fruit though there was a sense that there was more extraction of matter than flavor here as the red currant fruit was a touch diffuse and short on the finish. With air this gained excellent focus on the nose with tight, high-pitched notes of rosehips and tobacco, and while the palate remained a touch diffuse the seductive red fruit notes with their tinges of roast chestnut sweetness had a lovely texture. Ripe tannins and enough acidity to keep this rather consistent wine interesting. 90pts Justin found this to be “very floral” while Jim thought it was a bit “ chunky but closed” Vietti Barolo Castiglione - This was very aromatic apon opening with notes of camphor, chalk and earthy, medicinal herbs framing the red fruit. The entry was smooth, suave and sexy with sweet wild cherry and herb flavors only slightly marred by a hint of wood tannin that grew on the finish. This was mouth filling with excellent balance and finesse and wonderful clarity to the fruit so imagine my surprise when I revisited this and found it to be rather closed and almost mean with some oak showing and a slightly muddy, extracted feel.  This shut down rather impressively with air so either drink this quickly or put it away and hope the fruit emerges with the pristine beauty it originally showed. 90pts based on it’s earlier showing. Justin found this to be “ dilute, buttery and off-putting” while Jim noted “oaky, oaky, oaky”. Franco Conterno Barolo Bussia "Munie" - This opened slowly with a touch of torrefaction on the nose over a bed of almost weedy herbal components. With air the weediness took on a decidedly floral note and joined delicate notes of macerating cherry on the nose.  What started as an earthy, chewy, yet short mouthfeel blossomed into a lovely rich mouthful of fruit with big cherry tones and layered complexity that saw notes of herbs, flowers, dried spices and root vegetables join in. The finish was beautiful and precise, riding as much on acid as on tannin and finishing on notes of balsamic church candle and mineral notes. A lovely, complete expression of Nebbiolo. 92pts Marty found this to be “plummy” as did Jim while Justin found “cherry pit, barnyard and dirty winemaking”. Flight 3 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero -  Olives and spicy green middle eastern tones immediately greated the nose with this wine and were joined by notes of hung game, moist tobacco and sweet, candied root, angelica root tones after several hours of air.  This was initially quite bitter and beef bloody with lots of candied raspberry fruit tones that gradually added some vegetal, cucumber like notes and a very big flourish of fresh green herbs that set up the palate for this green/red fruit tension that was very intriguing and lead to a crisp clean finish with some subtle pignoli nut bitterness. After several hours air the big herbal element remained as did a very quinine like medicinal tone that framed the red fruits. The mouthfeel remained both zesty and polished and I appreciated the great complexity and sneaky finish but this is a very distinctive Barolo, something I applaud. 91pts Mark noted that if served this in a restaurant “I’d send it back!”  Justin found this to be “thinnish and flabby” John likened it to a Santa Barbara Pinot Noir and Marty found it to be the “most aromatic, with a touch of comet cleanser”. Jim called it “Burgundian” and added “I love the nose on this.” Marcarini Barolo La Serra -  Opening with a classic, slightly seaweedy and camphor tinge that served to support subtle, earthy fruit tones, this  just built on the theme with air adding high toned seashell notes and nori to the sweet fruity tones on the nose.  A soft sweet entry is followed by a whisper of very fine tannins and lean yet transparent yellow cherry fruit with gentle notes of macerated flowers and soft wild strawberry fruit that leads to a finish with sneaky, building tannins.  This remains very taut and sheer with air gaining nuanced mint, tar and anise notes that yield to a bit of beet root on the finish. 92pts Justin called this “Marcarini La Serra!” Mark added “ this is how I expect Barolo to taste”. Marty felt this had “all the elements” and John called it “tightly coiled” Marcarini Barolo Brunate -  Deep and filled with roses, this begins a bit monotone on the nose with hints of dry earth, sassafras and beet root. With air this gains a bit or a brownie edge, full of moist earth, hints of game and BO and plump, roasted strawberry.  What begins as a lush, round, seductive mouthfeel turns even more polished with air revealing a touch of spice, white pepper and earth that lays like a blanket over the slightly bitter tannins and wonderfully integrated acidity.  This is well balanced and fresh but turns just a touch muddied on the finish.  91pts Justin thought this to be “very backward and reductive” while John found this to be “ rustic in a way few of the others have been”. James found ‘something industrial” to this wine and Mark thought it “ was a little hot”. Flight 4 Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco -  Initially deep and dark with baked earth notes and a touch of skunk to the nettles and cactus notes on the nose, this gained a bit of spice and light notes of macerated flowers with air but remained reticent. In the mouth this started off with a sweet entry balanced by a nearly bitter tones that emulated the tension of bittersweet chocolate that was followed by a flood of sweet, wild cherry fruit with a huge medicinal top note.  Air caused this to close down significantly, concealing the fruit and highlighting the formidable tannins. The initial taste revealed a wine with lovely polish to the tannins super acids, just a wonderful mouthful of Barolo, layered complex and with inner mouth harmony yet no shortage of energy and big power on the finish with a touch of aged animal/pork fat 92pts Marty found this to be “full of cherry and earth.” John thought this was “totally classic but approachable” while Mark felt this was “totally typical.” Luigi Pira Barolo - This started out quite reticent with subtle menthol and balsamic notes that morphed into a wonderfully aromatic nose redolent of waxy fruits, violets and vegetal undertones. Initially this was disjointed, rich and yet cut in half by the bright acidity that highlighted the red currant and cranberry tones of the fruit. The backend was quite lean and tapered off on the finish. Air brought out the lovely, polished ripe tannins that gave this wine the texture of flannel and helped support deep, rich, chewy red fruits in a rich, tannic style of wine that hag great lingering length.  This will get better and better. 91pts James felt the “tannins are really drying” while Mark thought the “tannins are sweet”.  Marty enjoyed the “big body and nice full finish” of this wine. Guido Porro Barolo Santa Caterina - This was wonderfully fresh on the nose with heather floral tones and whisps of wild strawberry emerging with some air yet with time the floral elements took control of the aromatics and added a base of cigarette smoke, oily coffee beans and spearmint that was compelling.  Polished and broad in the mouth with wonderfully fresh strawberry fruit and elegant notes of anise and herbs, this remains lithe and refreshing in the mouth. Air adds to the power here, introducing a touch of pruniness and the fruit turns darker but retains a seamlessness and purity that is very attractive. A wonderful bottle of Barolo 93pts. John thought this resembled a “Barolo Chinato” And with that a pretty awesome tasting was ended. I am glad to say I have already laid down all of these wines in my cellar except for the Rizzi and Franco Conterno, which were picked up at their respective wineries. I would love to have additional bottles of both stored away and plan to work on remedying that situation soon! These are lovely wines, approachable by Barolo standards, and real values in today's marketplace. So get out there and see what's lying about on your retailers shelves. With the retail market they way it is I wouldn't be surprised if you could find these wines for a song, and perhaps a dance! Gregory Dal Piaz Community Manager Snooth    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Barolo 2004, do bargains... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• January 2009

  It was a bottle of the merlot and the merlot/cab. I don't know if I hurt the person's feelings or not either - I was so completely speechless and trying to read his face to see if it was a joke or not that it created a weird moment. If it wasn't a joke, I was going to be very... Read moreIt was a bottle of the merlot and the merlot/cab. I don't know if I hurt the person's feelings or not either - I was so completely speechless and trying to read his face to see if it was a joke or not that it created a weird moment. If it wasn't a joke, I was going to be very gracious about it, but we've exchanged gag gifts before so I was totally clueless. Not to mention the fact that I've had maybe one or two decent merlots from Australia ever. Plenty of great cabs, obviously lots of shiraz, even malbecs and petite verdot, but somehow merlot never seems to be exceptional. So I'm dying of curiosity. I think it's going to be opened at a mass tasting sometime this summer or I'll open it, try it for education, and cook with it. Not that I need any more cooking wine either - there are about 8 bottles in the fridge right now. As far as cost goes, it's a touchy issue. I would certainly never reject a wine based on the fact that it was "low cost", especially as that seems to be a widely varying measure. In fact, I'm always interested in finding a wine that is ten bucks or so and delivers superior quality. It's for that very reason that I went out and bought Yellow Tail when it was first introduced, and tried Two Buck Chuck first chance I had a few years ago in CA. I think that the issue is really education. If you know a little bit about what to look for, you can find decent bargains. But getting to that point takes time and ends up being expensive. In my current situation, we got to talking about wine a little later. The person wanted to learn and had heard that better values could be found in Australia than in CA, so that's why he selected these. I didn't want to make him feel bad so I kind of agreed and suggested that he stay away from CA if he's looking under $15, or even $20, because unless he's really careful, he can do much better elsewhere. There is certainly value, but it's overwhelmed by expensive and / or inferior wine IMO. Too bad too because a few producers are really good - even in Napa you can still find people like Steltzner who produce a very nice cab every year for under $20, and a better one for somewhere around $25. Sonoma's probably a better bet for blind shooting tho, or farther south. I suggested better luck in France for inexpensive value if he stays away from the big name regions like Burgundy, Bordeaux, and the Rhone, - a cru Beaujolais for ex, or something from the south. Also south Italy, which is putting out decent stuff in the southern regions - as an example I opened a Nero d'Avola for him. Also Spain, which they won't get for me because that's what I sell, ditto Argentina.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Wine Tasting Party by GregT

  
  

• October 2008

  Wines Tasted Marcarini Brunate - 91pts Cascina Ballarin Tre Ciabot - 88pts Elio Altare Barolo - 86pts Mascarello Monprivato – Corked Brovia Rocche di Brovia – 90pts Scavino Bric del Fiasc – 78pts E. Pira Cannubi – 90pts Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – 90pts Luciano Sandrone... Read moreWines Tasted Marcarini Brunate - 91pts Cascina Ballarin Tre Ciabot - 88pts Elio Altare Barolo - 86pts Mascarello Monprivato - Corked Brovia Rocche di Brovia - 90pts Scavino Bric del Fiasc - 78pts E. Pira Cannubi - 90pts Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - 90pts Luciano Sandrone Cannubi Boschis - 80pts Aldo Conterno Colonello - 87pts Conterno-Fantino Vigna del Gris - 87pts Clerico Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - 89pts Luigi Pira Marenca -94pts Bruno Giacosa Le Rocche del Falletto -89pts Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia -93pts The mid 1990’s through 2001 was a magical time in Piemonte, never before had the region been blessed with such a string of fine vintages. From 1993 to 2001 only 1994 was really a dog of a vintage and while 1997 and, to a lesser extent, 2000 were wildly over-praised apon release every vintage offered a wide range of fine wines. Some, like 1999 were dismissed a bit on release due to their difficult nature. Others, like 1998, had the misfortune of failing to grab and hold the attention of the press, which in this case was firmly focused on touting the greatness of the 1997 and 2000 vintages. 1997 was an extreme vintage that suffered from both extreme heat and drought, conditions that produced thick wines with concentrated fruit that wowed the critics on release, unfortunately the wines’ structure was never particularly well balanced with low acids and frequently bitter, unripe tannins. 1998 was in a certain way a close relative of 1997 but due to rains through out the growing season and a cool final month of growth the wines don’t suffer from the dual handicaps of low acids and unripe tannins that are now becoming more and more apparent with the 1997’s. None-the-less the 1998’s had the grave misfortune of coming to market just as another exotic, flashy vintage came to dominate the press, the 2000’s. Thus the wines from this fairly well balanced vintage languished on retailers, and wholesalers, shelves only to be rediscovered when their low pricing, bought as they were when the dollar was at its peak versus the Euro, made them too good a value to ignore. From the get go 1998 was correctly viewed as an obvious vintage for Barolo. The wines were expressive when they should have been brooding. The general conscenus was that this was a vintage without “legs”, without Barolos’ typical staying power that is measured in decades. While their precocious nature remains undeniable, now that they have begun to lose a bit of their baby fat the fine structure of many of the wines has become a bit more obvious and in fact it seems that several 1998s are finally closing down a bit. In addition to the unusual weather conditions faced in 1998 many producers were in a state of change. The dynamic nature of the so-called modernist movement, those producers used more new oak, roto-fermentors, and riper fruit for example, meant that many producers’ styles were moving targets as the shifted approaches to meet the demands of both the fruit they were given with each vintage and the demands of the market place. The traditionalists, those left behind in the 80’s and early 90’s due to their steadfast use of long fermentations and large, neutral oak ageing vessels, were suddenly becoming en vogue again as the string of great vintages focused the wine worlds attention on the Piedmont. The irony of the situation was that these perfectly approachable, soft, almost tame versions of Barolo, the 1998’s, were not being foisted apon the wine consuming public at large but rather the flamboyant, unrepresentative wines of aberrant vintages were. In those crazy times when 100% new barrique was de rigueur for a modernist the discerning public quickly became aware that while these vanilla laced cherry fruit bombs were an easy entry point to Barolo it was the slow to evolve, wiry, wildly perfumed wines that had been made for decades that truly excited. The wines from 1998 offered a complete Barolo experience but the dial was turned down to 8. Along with the dialing down was the end of the excesses of the modernist movement but many of them came just a bit too late as the delicacy and grace of the vintage was easily suffocated under the weight of excesses of wood, and toast.. Eviscerated wines that grabbed color and fruit from their 4 day roto-ferment , were left with a gaping hole in their centers where a soul had once been. Before I get bashed for being a modernist basher let me state that I have enjoyed wines from each producer in today’s line-up and several of the so-called modernist sin today’s line-up faired very well indeed! I am against certain aspects of winemaking that rob a wine of its life, it’s aromatics, and it’s soul. Especially with Nebbiolo, a vibrant, aromatic variety! I am an unabashed Traditionalist in many ways but I cannot deny what is in the glass. Luigi Piras’ Marenca for example towered above almost every other wine tonight and was breath taking in its authority and power. so good results can be achieved with pretty modern techniques, but it’s rare. I will let my notes speak for themselves. Perhaps some others who attended the tasting will offer differing views, though much of the discussion around the table touched on similar points. I included wines that I thought I might not like as an exercise. I knew I had not liked them in the past but was unsure why. Did I not like them because I wasn’t supposed to like them, they do after all represent what we are not supposed to want. Or did I not like them simply because they were not very likable? Now granted the assembled tasters had decidedly old-world, traditional palates but that does not account for the positive showings by half the modernists. To hear my fellow tasters unanimously pan the same wines, and remember these were tasted blind, just confirmed my suspicions. These are just not wines for me. The wines were blind tasted in flights of 3 organized roughly by commune. The wines were opened several hours before the tasting and then double decanted just before they were taken to the restaurant. Flight 1 - La Morra Marcarini Brunate - This opened with a fine nose immediately offering up perfumed notes of cherry, scorched orange rind, floral notes and sandalwood with top notes of mint and a touch of funk all over a bed of mineral rich clay. In the mouth this is very bright, with big acids. It’s a touch austere with lovely wild cherry fruit and slightly rustic tannins adding a bit of grit to the texture. Real nice length on the finish with subtle pomegranate and stronger raspberry tones and a crisp, focused citrussy finale. This is very friendly and complete tonight with great aromatics but could use a bit more complexity in the mouth. 2008-2018 91pts Cascina Ballarin Tre Ciabot - This relatively unknown producer is based in La Morra but this is in fact a blend with most of the juice coming from La Morra but a part coming from the villages of Verduno and Monforte. Reticent on the nose with a classic profile featuring sweet cherry fruit, cigar ash, a touch of tobacco and a menthol top note. With air there is a disconcerting bit of burnt rubber and a growing note of light oak, probably Slavonian, before the fine rose and tea notes blossom. Softish in the mouth with refined tannins this has tight, meaty mouthfeel with a tarry core of fruit. While I catch a touch of roasted fruit here there is also a counterpoint note of fresh herb adding freshness, the finish is a touch short but this is a solid, interesting bottle of Barolo. 2008-2016 88pts Altare - While opening slowly this is obviously woody but with nice floral tones. There is bittersweet chocolate here over dark fruit with touches of waxiness and earth. The perfumes tend to drift away as notes of lilac and earth are replaced with oaky coffee tones but the deep florality struggles mightily to reassert itself. Sweetly fruited in the mouth with fine balance and good focus this none-the-less has a touch too much oak. The plush texture is pleasant and the fine tannins polished but the overall feel of the wine is a bit too matte and lacks a bit of juicy liveliness. Solid but a bit muddled. 2008-2018 86pts Flight Two - Castiglione Falletto Mascarello Monprivato - This was corked and it was a shame as this wine is a gem. Even through the TCA contamination, which was obvious on the nose, one could sense the fine balance and great fruit on the palate. Perfect bottles of this wine have ranged in score from 88-92 pts. Brovia Rocche di Brovia - This really had great aromatics with liquory wild raspberry fruit, smoky, mossy grace notes and a penetrating perfume of dried flowers and oily herbs with notes of thyme. Offering up a very nicely integrated mouthfeel and plenty of leather and mineral tinged red fruits on the palate this was rich yet elegant with good length on the finish and very fine, ripe tannins that added richness and weight. A very solid effort that could use a bit more depth on the palate. 2008-2020 90pts. Scavino Bric del Fiasc - My notes read Barrel, Barrel, tar, earth, spice coffee, and pancetta so it wasn’t all bad but really this was smothered with oak. In the mouth it was big, plush and dumb. Sure it’s extracted and packed with tannin so it gives the appearance of having something going on but there is no depth here, just weight and while the vanilla tinged cherry fruit might appeal to some it is just not what I would want to drink. You can buy better wine for under $10 Because of the extraction and tannins this will enjoy a very long life and very likely will be better in 10 or 15 years but it will never be what I look for in Barolo. 2015-2030 78pts. Flight Three _ Barolo E Pira Cannubi - This was very perfumed and while there is an immediately noticeable dose of oak here it doesn’t kill the high-toned and very intense fruit. Really lovely and fruit driven and the gentle toast only adds some spice and sweetness. The lovely acids in the mouth keep this lively and bright and with it’s fine focus the deep core of sliced cherry fruit moves from the mid-palate to the cleansing finish. Lingering red fruits are clear and bright and this has fine focus and balance. Excellent modern Barolo 2008-2018 90pts. Bartolo Mascarello - The high-toned nose is lively and layered with black cherry fruit and notes of prosciutto, tar, and dried herbs/grasses. This is nicely plump in the mouth with excellent depth of tarry, earthy fruit and a fine, lingering sottobosco note. It’s a bit youthfully clumsy at first then attains fine balance with an easy, gentle character. The fruit is subtle; the complexity is fleeting at times with notes of tea and licorice weaving in and out. Lacks a bit of depth and follow-through on the finish though. 2008-2016 90pts Luciano Sandrone Cannubi Boschis - This has subtle but decidedly woody notes on opening then a sweet candied core that recalls root beer and black berry soda with an edge of animal fat. It gains some nice complexity with note of sweet herbs, vanilla, and a spicier, pancetta tone. While one could say this is suave and sexy in the mouth with its slick, polished feel the loose structure and nutty, cigarette ash laced fruit lacks depth and complexity. This is very approachable and lacks the structure and general fruit one should expect from Barolo and while drinkable fails to elicit any happiness. A well made but dead wine. 2008-2012 80pts. Flight Four - Monforte Aldo Conterno Colonello - Sweet and a touch beefy on the nose with spicy licorice tones and a gentle touch of woody/vanilla underlay. This gets a bit weird as bay leaf tones are joined by a strong buttery element and a bit of a cognac tone. Though round with good acids in the mouth, this is a bit muscularly styled with tannins that are a touch rustic though there is nice dark fruit here and a fine note of emerging porcini that leads to a moderately long finish. A solid but uninspiring effort 2008-2014 87pts Conterno-Fantino Vigna del Gris- This opened with huge soy, Asian spice and beef bouillon tones but freshened admirably with air though remained very evolved with a distinct Ramen noodle character. Austere and strict in the mouth with lots of tannin in a very focused package that offered nice length to the bright, astringent lingonberry fruit with a tinge of truffle emerging on the finish. What is happening here? This wine deserves some more time to evolve and may even be slightly damaged and thus not entirely indicative of it’s potential but the nose lacks enough freshness to give me little confidence for any extended cellaring, but it is fairly complex. 2008-2012 87pts Clerico Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - Powerful, sweet and spicy on the nose with integrated oak, very expensive smelling and while there are high, perfumed notes it’s a bit blunt and raw on the nose. Plush and opulent on entry and absolutely packed with extract, polished tannins, and rich fruit. The tannins clamp down on the finish though the intense plum and dark berry fruit fights through on the finale. While massive this retains fine balance and has solid potential for substantial improvement in the cellar though it will always remain a very particular expression of Nebbiolo 2012-2026 89pts Flight Five - Serralunga Luigi Pira Marenca - This is just lovely on the nose with intense notes of wild flowers, lingonberries, balsamic incense and medicinal roots. There is a touch of warm toast buried in the fruit but the powerful, muscular aromatics of black cherry and menthol easily balance it out. On entry the tannins are noticeably sweet and fine and support complex red fruits that recall plum and red apple skins that segue to a deep, fruit driven mid-palate with classic red cherry fruit. This finishes with excellent length and turns a bit more minerally with cherry pit notes and a fine finale of bitter licorice. A powerful wine still very youthful but with impressive balance! 2008-2024 94pts. Bruno Giacosa Le Rocche del Falletto - Sweet smelling at first though showing a bit more obvious alcohol than most of the wines tonight this has a nice core or tarry spicy fruit that is powerful with edges of pipe tobacco and a touch of smoky peat. Again a touch hot in the mouth with red currant fruits, a touch of red apple skins, a bit of a roasted meatiness though with great depth and lovely acids that drive the fruit into the longish finish which ends with a bit of red hots and again curranty fruit. A lovely bottle of Barolo though the tannins appear to be a bit soft and that pesky note of alcohol was a bit bothersome. 2008-2018 89pts. Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia - Deep and intense on the nose with strong anise and tar tinged sweet dark fruits. Real complexity here with layered notes of medicinal herbs, leather, prosciutto, and spice notes over that core of precise fruit. In the mouth the fine round tannins are young yet silky giving the wine unusual elegance. Though the intense frutti di bosco and seared red cherry notes are deep and rich the intense inner mouth note of drying roses offer great lift. Mineral and smoky tones add complexity and length on the finale which is a bit bracing and belies the generally strict character of this wine. The tannins are just a bit austere; a good thing for me, but the fruit buffers it perfectly. Very complete and while excellent this is youthful and will benefit from additional cellaring 2008-2025 93pts. So what if any conclusions can one carry away from this event? Well the wines continue to show well but perhaps not as well as they had just a year or two ago. The best wines are travelling from the bloom of youth to the sagacity of middle age, always a tough transition and continue to be good values. If one finds well stored for examples at good pricing are worth acquiring but I would not go out of my way, with few exceptions. It is a vintage that in all likely-hood will one day be thought of as the equal to the over-hyped 1997, but that is perhaps damning with faint praise. That is not to say that these wines are better than the 1997’s or even their equals. The finest 1997’s will be great wines but the vintage simply lacks any semblance of the consistency one finds with 1998. That is not entirely a compliment though because as I stated earlier these wines are an 8 on a scale of 1 - 10. They lack the extra depth, richness and complexity that would elevate the vintage to being great. I liked the wines, I really did, but I can’t see mush upside potential to cellaring the vast majority of these wines. They will make relative bargains on restaurant wine lists of the foreseeable future!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic 1998 Ten Year After Barolo... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• August 2008

  Yep. It was a $23 gem. I have found the 2005 for $19.99 online, so now I just need to smuggle it into my home state by ordering it to a relative's address. For some reason Illinois has wierd regulations. I usually have no problem getting shipments, but lately have had more trouble. I... Read moreYep. It was a $23 gem. I have found the 2005 for $19.99 online, so now I just need to smuggle it into my home state by ordering it to a relative's address. For some reason Illinois has wierd regulations. I usually have no problem getting shipments, but lately have had more trouble. I am pretty confident that 2005 looks to be quite the stunning year for Bordeaux at all price points. I tried out a $17 bottle from a local wineshop and it seems to have the potential to be great in a few years. It was een drinkable now after 45 minutes or so of air. Thanks for the reply, I'll grab some of the 2005 and see how it goes. I'll keep trolling for some of the other 2000 Haut-Medoc bargains if I can find them.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Chateau Tour St. Joseph, Haut... by dschur

  
  

• August 2008

  The Snooth site is a great tool for finding these small production/small distribution gems. However, I searched for your wine and wasn't surprised to turn up 0 stores with this item in stock. You see, the 2000 Haut Medocs were released in the US in 2002-2003 and have mostly sold... Read moreThe Snooth site is a great tool for finding these small production/small distribution gems. However, I searched for your wine and wasn't surprised to turn up 0 stores with this item in stock. You see, the 2000 Haut Medocs were released in the US in 2002-2003 and have mostly sold through. Vintage 2000 wines from more famous Chateaux are still in stores, but you'll be hard pressed to find bargains. I suspect that you spent less than $25 for this bottle and suggest that you try to find some other 2000 Haut Medocs to see if they are drinking as well right now. What part of the country are you from? Newer vintages of Tour St. Joseph seem to be widely available in the Southeast.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Chateau Tour St. Joseph, Haut... by RBoulanger

  
  

• July 2008

  !http://bp0.blogger.com/_lanw6owdrfA/SFLFN-ChouI/AAAAAAAAAK4/Wyd-2ityfSM/S1600-R/logo.jpg! The US economy has been tough for the past few years, and the US dollar has lost a lot of ground against the EURO and other currencies. This translates to higher costs for most commodities,... Read more !http://bp0.blogger.com/_lanw6owdrfA/SFLFN-ChouI/AAAAAAAAAK4/Wyd-2ityfSM/S1600-R/logo.jpg! The US economy has been tough for the past few years, and the US dollar has lost a lot of ground against the EURO and other currencies. This translates to higher costs for most commodities, including wine. Some of my favorite wines are from the Rhone region of France. Chateneauf du Pape, Cornas, Gigondas are just some of the styles I love. While shopping for these wines late last year, my salesperson told me to look through the catalog for some of the older vintages that they still had in stock. I was amazed at how much cheaper I could buy some of these older vintages versus the new releases. Instead of purchasing the new vintage of Chateauneuf du Pape, I opted to stock up on the better producers for the years 1998 through 2003. The retailer bought these wines years ago at a price significantly lower then the new vintage. Many retailers have held the pricing on these wines to encourage sales and to deplete their inventory. This offers an opportunity for wine lovers to grab a real bargain. Why wouldn’t you consider buying past vintages of quality winemakers? The wine has had some time to develop in the bottle possibly improving in character. Most often the tannins soften providing a better drinking experience. Most importantly, you can save a few dollars allowing you to buy better wine for the same price. In every city you can find a retailer that has past vintages stored in a temperature controlled warehouse. Many have on-line catalogs that allow you to peruse what wines and vintages are available. In Washington, DC, I buy from McArthur Beverage http://www.bassins.com/, Calvert Woodley - http://www.wineaccess.com/ and Schneiders - http://www.cellar.com/ . All of these stores have past vintages that are available to purchase. If you are not in the DC area, check the larger stores in your specific area to see if they have a web presence. You can also inquire with the stores directly regarding availability of past vintages. Good luck, and let me know what bargains you find! I will share them in a future article.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Great Wine, Great Vintages,... by WineGent

  
  

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