January 2009
So my monthly blind tasting group met this week to sample 2007 German ... to Leitz’ Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett. After Dönnhoff Leitz is the second most represented producer in my cellar, based on the incredible values his wines offer. This was a bit tight, actually... Read moreSo my monthly blind tasting group met this week to sample 2007 German ... to Leitz’ Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett. After Dönnhoff Leitz is the second most represented producer in my cellar, based on the incredible values his wines offer. This was a bit tight, actually the tightest wine of the tasting, but offered such fine balance and length that I just felt the innate quality here. It was another wine that really hit my Kabinett button and was among the least sweet wines of the tasting, though the range, once the Darting was removed, was fairly narrow. My #3 wine of the tastings yet the groups #6.
http://www.snooth.com/wine/weingut-josef-leitz-rudesheimer-klosterlay-riesling-kabinett-2007-1/
Most of the historically famous German wines have come from the hallowed vineyards of the Mosel. We had 3 Middle-Mosel wines to represent this vinous heartland. Now this was a tough little group. Two of the wines had significant sulfur issues and all will benefit from some time in the cellar. They did not show as well as many would expect, lacking the notes that would make one think Mosel while tasting them. That is an issue for me.
One thing I have seen is that wines that come from “great” weather vintages often are hailed as great on release but frequently lack the transparency that allow the complexity of terroir to emerge. These samples did show the potential to get themselves sorted out but the issue I have for the long run is whether these will turn out to be great Mosels or only great Rieslings. The difference is subtle, and yet significant, and worthy of further discussion on it’s own.
The first of these middle Mosels was the Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett, a blend of vineyard sites. Marred by quite bit of sulfur this was a chunky, somewhat clumsy wine at this point that lacked the acid to support it’s considerable sugar. It was my #6 wine and the groups #5 with most people thinking this was the JJ Prum but that was most likely based on this being the most heavily sulfured wine of the tasting.
http://www.snooth.com/wine/schloss-lieser-riesling-kabinett-2007/
The next wine was indeed the Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett. It showed some obvious sulfur as well and while it showed a lot of potential it was not performing at it’s best this evening garnering my 7Th place vote and falling in dead last among the group. It has a succulence and layered liquid minerality that should allow this to emerge with some time in the cellar as the deepest and most complete wine of the tasting but, as is the case with Prüm’s wines, is offering only disjointed glimpses of greatness at this youthful stage of it’s evolution.
http://www.snooth.com/wine/joh-and-46-jos-and-46-prum-graacher-himmelreich-riesling-kabinett-2007/
Our final Middle Mosel wine was the Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett, which as my #5 wine and the group’s #4 was the highest-ranking Mosel wine of the tasting. This also will benefit from some time in the cellar and while it’s a very solid wine it lacked the depth and poise that would make this truly special in my book.
http://www.snooth.com/wine/willi-schaefer-graacher-domprobst-riesling-
kabinett-2007/
Our final wine came from the Saar, home to Germany’s most nervous, steely Rieslings. The Saar is a tough place to grow Riesling. It is not unusual to have only a handful of good or better vintages each decade. Obviously that sounds like the perfect place to benefit from an extended growing season and near perfect weather. If the Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett is any indication that is spot on! Not only was this my #1 wine but it was the group’s #3, coming in directly behind the two wines from the Nahe that were tied for first!
That is an impressive result, on the heels of the two wines from arguably Germany’s most flamboyant region comes this black sheep from a region frequently faulted for under-ripeness! I loved this wine! It lacks the explosiveness and complexity of the Nahe wines but was so focused and crisp with exceptional Kabinettiness! Racy and lacy, this is a wine to drink by the pool next summer.
http://www.snooth.com/wine/von-hovel-oberemmeler-hutte-riesling-kabinett-2007/
So my top lesson learned from this modest tasting? Try more Saar wines from 2007! If you appreciate their leaner style and are looking for transparent, pure elegance this may very well be the spot for you in 2007. On the opposite end of the spectrum the Nahe seems to have done well in 2007. While completely different in character from the Saar, the richness and flamboyance the wines exhibited was compelling and certainly warrants further investigation.
I hope you all get out there and try at least one 2007 German Riesling. They are delicious, affordable, and just so much fun to drink. Take a note and post it on Snooth. Helping you to find better wines! (hide)