Gregory Dal Piaz

Location: New York, NY

Aged Rieslings

5. Niederhauser Hermannsholle Spatlese Donnhoff (2001)

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This smells fantastic. All crushed rock, spiced, with floral and tobacco top notes and a core of smoky grilled pineapple and apricot. Reminds me of North African cuisine. On the palate this is big and rich, still with plenty of sugar that is well balanced by the acidity. At first, there is far less interesting stuff going on in the mouth than on the nose and this feels a bit syrupy. There’s a lot of fruit still here, some pink grapefruit, apricot and more grilled pineapple notes, but they lack a little brightness until the acidity returns on the moderately long finish. With air, the mineral notes start to add detail in the mouth. If there is a gripe here, it’s that the intensity of the palate makes the finish seem feeble, but this still has all its pieces in place. 93pts
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