Jacques Charlet Viré-Clessé 2007
The Viré-Clessé is a charming wine, with its gold colour, brilliant and with green hints. Its nose full of aromas develops exotic fruit and mint flavours. When ageing, this wine reveals quince jam and pine notes. A well-balanced mouth, very full and fresh. It is long in the mouth with a nutty final which is very typical of the terroir. To be served between 11 and 13 degrees C, with fishes, white meats and goat cheeses.
It is indeed gold in colour with green hints -- also seems to have a quite oily, not quite crystal clear look in the glass. Big, seductive chardonnay nose of green apple, citrus, pine resin, peaches lurking underneath, and at the bottom a fullness of asparagus and grassy, earthy notes. Much more bracing and challenging on the palate than, say, a typical Pouilly-Fuissé -- not much butter or tropical fruit in there, but a lot of rich citrus and grassy, resinous, oily body. When I first tried this I was sure it must be an aligoté, but a bit of research on the region says it must be chardonnay; it has more in common, to me, with a northern Rhône white than a typical Mâcon chardonnay. All in, this punches well above its financial weight in complexity of flavour, length, body and sheer surprise; I reckon it will age a bit, and I've bet on that by sticking one in my fridge. I think this would work great with something rich and mollusc-oriented: pan-fried scallops in a saffron sauce would be ideal.