Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd 2009
Franz and Irmgard Hirtzberger are beginning to contemplate the generation handover which will take place in the next few years. Franz Junior is back from a couple of years of worldwide wanderings and wine making experiences to see how they make Riesling in other climates and cultures. I doubt his reports to his father contained any urgent suggestions for change. Hirtzberger is a jewel of an estate, making truly world-class wines from their 12 hectares, and the conditions here are so specific, and the wines so very true to their terroir that it would be hard to imagine in what possible way they could be improved. These wines are now well-established in the UK, and increasing demand over the last few vintages means that we have a serious pressure on volumes of wine available, Gruner Veltliner in particular. The magnum and double magnum bottles look spectacular.